Tricks/tips or recommendation for idler arm level?
#1
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: Det. Posi, Superior Axles, 3:73 G
Tricks/tips or recommendation for idler arm level?
I'm putting in a new Idler arm and centerlink since they've been in since 82. When I removed the idler arm I noticed alot of play on the centerlink.
Anyway, in the Chiltons they recomment when replacing the idler arm to measure it with a socket and some other tool to make sure it's level with the pitman arm off the steering box, (hope I said that correctly)
I was wondering if I could just use a level and just make sure it's level that way. Has anyone else done this or can advise me of any tips?? Thank you.
Anyway, in the Chiltons they recomment when replacing the idler arm to measure it with a socket and some other tool to make sure it's level with the pitman arm off the steering box, (hope I said that correctly)
I was wondering if I could just use a level and just make sure it's level that way. Has anyone else done this or can advise me of any tips?? Thank you.
#2
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Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
You need to set a benchmark.
Get a long level and measure the frame rails. I would pull the front sway bar and place the level on the mounting points. This will give you a good point to measure from and you can get a level in there. Use a jack to manipulate the the car until the level reads level. Turn it 180 degrees and measue again.
You have now set benchmark.
Keep the chassis where it is and move level to the idler arm and pitman arm. Adjust idler arm until the level reads level.
Of course keep the arms pointed as if the car wre going in a strait line when measured. They will swing in an arc and will upset your measurement.
Get a long level and measure the frame rails. I would pull the front sway bar and place the level on the mounting points. This will give you a good point to measure from and you can get a level in there. Use a jack to manipulate the the car until the level reads level. Turn it 180 degrees and measue again.
You have now set benchmark.
Keep the chassis where it is and move level to the idler arm and pitman arm. Adjust idler arm until the level reads level.
Of course keep the arms pointed as if the car wre going in a strait line when measured. They will swing in an arc and will upset your measurement.
#3
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: Det. Posi, Superior Axles, 3:73 G
SDIF,
Thank you very much!! I'll give this a shot and let you know how it works. I know the old idler arm was set incorrectly cause the arm's bolts were all the way up top in the adjustment and the centerlink was crooked. Thank you again, I'll repost my success when I get this done.
Thank you very much!! I'll give this a shot and let you know how it works. I know the old idler arm was set incorrectly cause the arm's bolts were all the way up top in the adjustment and the centerlink was crooked. Thank you again, I'll repost my success when I get this done.
#5
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 383
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: Det. Posi, Superior Axles, 3:73 G
It sure did. Worked like a charm. My old one was way off and when I put this new Idler arm on with this method, the steering felt much more responsive. Also the car always felt to turn right easier and this fixed that problem.
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