xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I've been hearing that keeping all four tires same size would be better for the car. However, I changed my rears to a bit bigger size and I noticed much better response and the car was faster. I usually have a serious wheel spin from first to second. The car sounds like its putting out power, but I cant feel it at all. Than the car shifts to second and brakes tires loose. I was wondering if bigger tires are better since they do grip the road with a greater surface. I plan on running the biggest tires I can fit back in the wheel well. What would you recomend?? i am looking to not cut anything for now.

What is your opinion???

What would you do to eliminate the wheelspin??? LS1 driveshaft? subframe connectors. (I did search and I found more "do a search" threads).

yjischoking

iTrader: (3)

some good shocks and maybe some springs. i have koni yellows and the pro-kit all around, and also 255s in the back. my car rarely spins for more than a second when launching hard. granted its only an L03 but i dont think ur spraying yours right off the line anyway...

crazyjim

who told you that having four smaller same size tires would be better handling than two bigger tires on the rear... BTW when I say bigger I mean width.

If we're talking total circumference then yes, you want to be somewhat close... having big tires in the rear and small tires up front has been PROVEN to kill your handling.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

So the bigger width tires would be better?? Which number tells the width of the tire on the tire. Like 255,65,15. Which number of those??
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which tire would be best to the stock set up without cutting anything.

87TAairlineyard

In your example, 255 refers to the tire width, 65 to the sidewall height as a percentage of the width (in your example, 65% of 255 or 165.75), and 16 which would refer to the wheel size. Usually, you'll see tires listed like this: 245/50ZR16, which means a 245 mm width, 50% of that for sidewall height, Z speed rating (+157 mph I think), R for radial, and 16 for 16 inch wheel size.

A fatter tire will give you a better contact patch for launching and better handling. Fat rears and skinny fronts are fine for drag racing, but they will give you poor handling on the street. A good set of matched (or nearly so) tires will deliver good performance for most driving. I have seen quite a few mid 80s TAs run 245s (stock size) on the front with 255-275s on the rear.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Yea, that answered my question. 275 sounds good to me!

redd1984

I have 215/60/15 on my car all the way round and the front wheels rub on the inner gaurd at full lock. Maybe because my car is now right hand drve?

Daniel U

Let me know how the 275's work out. I have the same problem with my stock 5.7 and I want more performance. I have Bilstiens w the Eibach prokit. I know there's probably other suspension mods, but the back ends are much lighter than the fronts. I might go another direction and just start putting the front end on a diet. A/C will be the first to go, and then maybe a full alum motor, and tube spohn k member. Though I have heard conflicting things in regaurds to wieght savings from the tube k member. anyways, keep us posted on the 275's and if you had to tub it or not. Post a rear pic so we can see too!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

you dont necessarily have to have equal tires all around to have good handling. most modern cars now have skinnier fronts and wider rears and handle well. look at the corvette and other high end sports cars...
it all comes down to the suspension setup. and gettin it to work with the tire sizes you have

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Yup. I am going on a look out for the 275's. We'll see how it goes. I will let all of you know.

laters!

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Whats the biggest tire you can fit in the rear without any issues? I was planning on doing 245 up front with say a 255 in the rear, but if I can go bigger to lets say a 275, I might do that...wide tires in the back look so good.

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

Im about to put 285/40s on the back of my car, its a 26" tall tire. This is going on a 17x9 ROH snypers. It should fit fine...well see though this weekend. Tires will be here tommaro!

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Post pics man!

I went looking for tires and the ones that were listed were 245's in the back. i wanted at least 275 and they didn't have any. So, my search continues.
If you guys have some pics lets see them. Tell us how you got them to fit.

Daniel U

Also I used to have 255/50 16 on stock 87 rims. For some reason BFG stopped making the 255 and now I have 245's on all 4 corners. Now I'm thinking of going to a wider aftermarket wheels so that I can get at least 10" footprint. I was told that with the correct offset you can fit the 285 w/out tubbing. Let us kknow the offset so we don't have to do the homework. I'll probably need to go to a 17" wheel combo as well. I can't wait to see the pics!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I have 275/60/R15's out back on 15x8 second gen snowflake wheels, and 235/60/R15's in the front. if you hit a hard bump you could hear the tires rubbing on the outside, on the wheel well, plus it looks like someone tried to slash my tires, but wasn't completely successful. (ps, I don't think the 2nd gen wheels have the right offset, so I think that's why that happens).

mwnova had 275's on 7" wide stock wheels with no problem.

oh yea, tire width does give more contact patch, and better grip, but quality (brand) of tire, and suspension helps more. If you've got weenie stock suspension you can burn up 275's with an LG4 quite easily (ahem, not that i'd know of course... ) In hot rod a while ago I remember reading about a guys late '60s stang, turbo'ed 302. made big power, something like 600HP or more, I forget. Ran low 11's on 215/60 factory size street tires. It's all about getting your car to get up on it's hind legs and gallop

Daniel U

So sense this IS in a suspension catagory, besides good shock/springs, what else should be done to put the weight from the front to the rear? I was told there was an adjustable suspension piece that could be used on the street and strip depending on what aetting it was adjusted to. I'm still puttung the front end on a diet though. Starting with the AC.

CrazyHawaiian

You guys should do more searches, 275's have been done up front and 315's in the rear without tubbing. I think biggest that fit in the back that didnt need any modification was 285's but the backspacing is really important. I'm running 275's in the rear with no modifications needed and no rubbing (and the car is really low) 9.5" wide with 5.5" backspacing. I'm not so sure about 15's and 16's, the info I posted up top was 17's and 18's with smaller sidewalls. I guess as long as overall dimensions are similar then you should have no problems.

If you wanna drop some weight from the front you can relocate the battery, run a fiberglass hood, or switch to aluminum heads. Just some examples, there are many more other wanys to go. The free weight savings mods are great but depends on what the owner/driver wants, some people dont wanna ditch the A/C or gut the interior.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

LCA's that are beefier
LCA relocation brackets
poly bushings everywhere
perhaps an adjustable aftermarket torque arm
panhard rod shouldn't do much for launching, but you're beefing up the rear suspension, it's something you can consider.

I just boxed all my stuff, then added poly bushings.

Daniel U

I'm not hung up on the metric # as much as the overall size of the footprint I leave. What size foot print is your 275? I realize with a stock 16" IROC wheel I'm limited on what tire I can run. I also understand the backspacing is crucial. I just want to know what dimensions to look for when shoppping for wheels. Can you leave a rear pic of your ride? I plan on relocating the batt. as well, just waiting on the $$ for the optima batt. Have a Harwood fib. hood. I want ans LS1 which I understand will be all alum. The A/C delete pulley is only 45 bucks on GM Parts direct online. My local dedaler wanted 75+. I also want the carbon fiber shaft. More $$$. I'm in the middle of a 54 Pick up resto, so $ is tight. Also the Camaro is my daily driver, so If I do a mod it has to be done so I can go to work the next day.

Daniel U

I'm assuming LCA is short for Lower Control Arms. I'm kinda new to the computer short hand. I have a Spohn LCA reclocator, and poly bushings and new trans mount. Who's good for adj torque arm?
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Oh yeah, how do you "box your stuff" and what does that mean/do for your F body?

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

just like boxing a frame expect fopr suspension components. The stock lca's have only 3 sides and are c shaped. You would in this case weld a peice of steel and turn it in to a square peice instead of open ended c. Basically strengthens it from up and down and side to side play.

Although in the lca's case i would say just buy the lakewood lca's they are less than 80$ not rusty like most of ours (powdercoated) and already have poly bushings in them.... Just my 2 cents.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yep flaming had it right. In retrospect, it might have been more cost effective to buy new LCA's, as the bushings were ~$60, $5 worth of steel, and a $6 can of paint so.... (but i'm in canada, so those lca's would have been ~$120 or so...)


Spohn is the man for aftermarket suspension bits, I'm pretty sure he has an adjustable torque arm.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Well, infront I am running 215 65 and they rub against the inner well when I turn them all the way. Its annoying. I also have the same tire in the back. I ran 235 for a while and man what a difference. the car was a lot quicker. So, I really want to go with 265 or 275's. I happen to have a 15 wheel so I hope they can get something big for me! I am gonna look around to find good tires now.

Laters.