Spherical Rod Ends?
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Spherical Rod Ends?
I've gathered a lot of info, but then I've read from a different site that spherical rod ends on the lca's on a street car would wear out fast...do to bumps, etc...Is this true, or ?
I've decided to use Spherical ends on the lca's and panhard and torque arm. I'm also going w/ Polyurethane everywhere else. Del-A-Lums for the front A-Arms too. Would this combo be ideal for the street? I keep hearing good AND bad.
I think I'm going with Koni Yellow's and Eibach Pro Kit for the shocks/struts/springs. I found a combo deal for $699. At first I had Koni Red's picked out, but then heard the Yellow's were better.
Any insight?
I've decided to use Spherical ends on the lca's and panhard and torque arm. I'm also going w/ Polyurethane everywhere else. Del-A-Lums for the front A-Arms too. Would this combo be ideal for the street? I keep hearing good AND bad.
I think I'm going with Koni Yellow's and Eibach Pro Kit for the shocks/struts/springs. I found a combo deal for $699. At first I had Koni Red's picked out, but then heard the Yellow's were better.
Any insight?
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42s
Good rod ends will last anywhere from a year to two years usually depending on how often you drive and what conditions you drive in.
The Del-A-Lums are awesome but if you don't plan on competiting in AX or RR(where the mod is usually not even allowed or puts you in a very high class automatically) yer just throwing your money away. Poly bushings up front are fine.
The Koni Sports(yellows) are really no better than the specials(reds). The yellows are just adjustable for rebound and have alot more damping in them which is useful for competition. For street use only the reds would be best. There is also double adjustable(compression and rebound) Koni shocks but one front strut alone costs almost $300.
EDIT: Oh and the pro-kit is a great choice.
The Del-A-Lums are awesome but if you don't plan on competiting in AX or RR(where the mod is usually not even allowed or puts you in a very high class automatically) yer just throwing your money away. Poly bushings up front are fine.
The Koni Sports(yellows) are really no better than the specials(reds). The yellows are just adjustable for rebound and have alot more damping in them which is useful for competition. For street use only the reds would be best. There is also double adjustable(compression and rebound) Koni shocks but one front strut alone costs almost $300.
EDIT: Oh and the pro-kit is a great choice.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Spherical Rod Ends?
Originally posted by SweetRide45
I've gathered a lot of info, but then I've read from a different site that spherical rod ends on the lca's on a street car would wear out fast...do to bumps, etc...Is this true, or ?
I've decided to use Spherical ends on the lca's and panhard and torque arm. I'm also going w/ Polyurethane everywhere else. Del-A-Lums for the front A-Arms too. Would this combo be ideal for the street? I keep hearing good AND bad.
I think I'm going with Koni Yellow's and Eibach Pro Kit for the shocks/struts/springs. I found a combo deal for $699. At first I had Koni Red's picked out, but then heard the Yellow's were better.
Any insight?
I've gathered a lot of info, but then I've read from a different site that spherical rod ends on the lca's on a street car would wear out fast...do to bumps, etc...Is this true, or ?
I've decided to use Spherical ends on the lca's and panhard and torque arm. I'm also going w/ Polyurethane everywhere else. Del-A-Lums for the front A-Arms too. Would this combo be ideal for the street? I keep hearing good AND bad.
I think I'm going with Koni Yellow's and Eibach Pro Kit for the shocks/struts/springs. I found a combo deal for $699. At first I had Koni Red's picked out, but then heard the Yellow's were better.
Any insight?
#4
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What's the major advantage they have over poly/poly besides binding? If they last the longest, why is there a need to change them every few years? Heck, the stock rubber ones like never die...lol
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I ment to say the QA1 rod ends last the longest of the rod ends. Cheaper ones will wear faster. Both poly and rubber will outlast rod ends. Their main advantage is bindfree operation over poly.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Depends how hard you push it. Think of going around corner fast and having the rear end "skip" over the ruts in the road. Rod ends will follow the road better because when the polys start to bind, they will act like a spring, trying to keep the rear parallel to the vehicle, instead of the road, and by doing so, unload the inside tire and give unpredictable handling (i.e. squirrelly rear end)
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One more thing...Rod Ends just for the LCA's, right? How about the Panhard? You can get basically anything w/ Rod Ends...
If anything, I'd do LCA's w/ Rod Ends...everything else Poly.
If anything, I'd do LCA's w/ Rod Ends...everything else Poly.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
really, the panhard motion is not one where bind is a concern, of course the almost nill deflection of the spherical bearings will help, it is not going to be a big diffrnence. if you want to minimize the number of bearings, and maximize the performance, get poly/rod combo LCA's (2 bearings total) and a spherical mount on the TA, (1 bearing) that gives you a total of 3 bearings, and should eleminate the chance of the rear binding.
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So, you really don't need double rod ends on the lca's? Which part goes where if it's poly/rod? Rod to the axle, poly to the frame? Advantage/Disadvantage? If it won't matter that much, then I'll just go that way...less parts to wear out I'm guessing.
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So, there would be not that much of a "noticable" difference from going to poly/rod over rod/rod lca's? Right? It's a few bucks cheaper, and less bearings to go out!
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
there is a 'hair' more deflection, but for what you are doing, it would be fine, having the poly on the body side will help keep the noise down.
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