POP6482

iTrader: (2)

looking for some info on the install of a Tick Master Cylinder for my LSX swap. My car is aa original 5 speed car. I am using third gen pedals. Do I need to remove the brake booster before install.
Any info and pics would be appreciated
Thanks!

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

you don't have to remove the booster, but it does make it easier

you *might* have to dimple the strut tower, but I personally didn't. However, I did convert my car to a manual, so keep that in mind.

Also, if you do a search, I am sure there are some good pics of one being installed.

good luck with the install. I love mine!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

There are a good number of pictures and posts about using the Tick.

If you car was a factory 5 speed, you will most likely NOT have to dimple the wheel well. It's a pretty close fit, which is why those of us that converted sometimes have to massage that area. Depends how you drilled your holes.

Booster doesnt have to come out really. Its not that bad...but it is much easier with it removed.

You will run into an issue with the peg on the clutch pedal though. The Tick uses a rod end, that has a mounting hole matched up to the 4th gen pedals. Our thirdgen pedals uses a thicker peg. I dont recall the actual sizes off hand...they are listed in my build thread somewhere I believe.

There are a few solutions to this. Mine was to swap the pegs. But that involves getting a 4th gen clutch pedal and knocking the peg out, and re-welding it into the thirdgen pedals.

You can turn down the thirdgen peg to fit, though this might be somewhat tricky.

You MIGHT be able to get the hole in the rod end enlarged. But since its a sperical rod end and is probably hardened steel...it might be difficult.

You can remove the peg all together, and install a bolt/rod/peg of your own design to work. I think a couple guys have done this.

To me, the connection point is the hardest part.

J.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info. I've looked through your thread a few times. I'll have to go through it again. A lot of good info there. I have the 4th gen pedals so I'll be able to take that piece off and weld it on.
Thanks again!

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

Why not just use the 4th gen pedals??

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

I thought the 3rd gen are easier to work with.

86White_T/A305

Yup you dont need to remove the booster but the tick is a tight fitting master.I didnt have any trouble mounting mine because I was converting from auto and drilled my holes as far away from the shock tower as possible and it lined up perfectly with my 4thgen pedals.

I will warn you though...snaking the tick into that spot was interesting lol but my motor was out of the car which made it easier for me to maneuver my hands and take the adjustment rod off the tick first.Once its in I followed the tick instructions for making adjustments.Good luck on your build.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Can anyone verify that the 3rd gen peg is 7/16"? My master came in today, and i've found a new rod end online that has a 7/16" opening on the rod end and the correct threads

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

that would be cool if it was..... I'd like to throw the T5 pedals I have in the car.....

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Double check the width of that new rod end... The problem I had when searching for rod ends was finding the correct hole with the correct threads and the correct width to work.

Actually I dont think I ever got past matching up the thread size to the peg size...so kudos if you found that!

That said... The thirdgen peg should be 7/16"...correct. Just check out the width of the bushing in the middle of the rod end before you order/purchase.

J.

STREETDEMON

pop, all the info here is great:

i drilled out my 3rd gen peg and used a 3/8" pin welded in and cut to correct length. the 3rd gen pedals have better bracing to the firewall. my install was done without the engine in, but the brake booster and steering column were still installed. should be an easy 2 person job, just take your time and use some patience. on my z the strut tower required a little massaging.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good guys. Going to work on the install this weekend. Thanks for all the input.

88blackiroc

iTrader: (1)

I installed my tick after the motor was running and what not. I ended up loosening the brake booster. Made it alot easier to get in. One bolt to bolt it up though gave me so much trouble to get threaded in but I finally got it. Take some pics and let us know how it goes!

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

all the rod ends i found were either wrong thread or not 7/16th. I'm going to remove the pedals and do it the right way.

How the hell do you remove them though?? Do i have to take the column and brake booster out??

STREETDEMON

take the nuts loose and remove, might be easier with the clutch pedal off, can't remember. you don't have to remove the column or the booster(it just takes a little longer if you don't). remove the booster nuts, and i believe there is one more up high that is somewhat hidden from sight, and then the master cylinder nuts/bolts, and you should be good to go.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Only got to taking the original master cylinder out today after work. It is a tight spot to get at. I like the idea of loosening the booster bolts to allow for a little more room.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

I'm almost done removing the pedals. Just need to take the column all of the way out, unclip some wireing, and get that dang top bolt out!

Question, Does the booster fall out if i take the last bolt off of it? One of the four that is

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

HOLY HELL WHAT A PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm never replacing another master cyliner, let alone taking the pedals out and all that BS. I had to put the rod end on the peg, then screw the master cylinder into it....hope i didn't unscrew anything internally.

On the plus side, i painted the booster and pedals. Took about 5 hours total....

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya!

88blackiroc

iTrader: (1)

Hahah someone had fun.. any pics for us?

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Got the Tick MC in this morning along with removing the clutch pedal so that I can swap out the pegs. The mc doesn't touch the stut tower so there wasn't any extra work. I also didn't have to loosen the brake booster.
Are we able to use the 3rd gen resevoir or does it need to be swapped out for a 4th gen?

STREETDEMON

i don't have any experience with the third gen vs. 4th gen reservoir, but, if the hose barbs are the same size, i don't see why not. i put on an aftermarket setup and it doesn't require a lot of fluid.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Ya. I'm thinking it won't be a problem. I was looking around today at some build threads and saw it being used in some of the pics.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I made a thread that you can search for to use piece from a hardware store and weld it where the old third gen peg was to use them with the swap, it's very easy.

I ended up taking the rod off the tick mc to install it, put the aluminum block up to the firewall and screwed the threaded rod in from the inside of the car.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Car has been on the road for 2 weeks now and I have probably bled the clutch 15 times. Once it is bled, I can easily shift through all gears. As I drive longer, it seems to get more difficult. After I get home and the car sits for a while, start the car again and can't get into any gear. Bleed the clutch, not much air comes out, clear fluid, shifts fine. Today I noticed that I can't slam any gears under heavy acceleration. I replaced the slave cylinder and throwout bearing during the swap. I am using a SPEC stage 2 clutch with steel flywheel.
Any help or ideas would be great!!!
Thanks!!

rickyzZ28

iTrader: (4)

Did you check to see if you needed a shim behind the slave cylinder? From Tick:

How to determine if a shim is needed for your setup:

During each and every clutch install you perform on a newer GM vehicle, you must measure to see if a shim is necessary for proper installation. This is done by taking two simple measurements (see worksheet):

1) Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.

2) Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.

Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave cylinder and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

Your “A minus B” measurement should be 0.125 to 0.200 for adequate bearing travel and to allow for clutch wear. If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure. Contact your clutch manufacturer before proceeding with the install."

Just throwing it out there and not sure if it is the problem or not, but I know some people have problems with clutch engagement if they have too much space between the 2 measurements. The difference between my stock slave and the new GM one I bought was .330 so I have to shim mine. Again just throwing this out there.

92 BBC Z

Whats the advantage of using 'Tic's' over stock?

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

We did measure it before install and the measurements we got showed the a shim was not needed. I don't remember exactly what the measurements were. It seems to be getting proper engagment. After the clutch is rebled it is back to normal. I have an email sent to TICK explaining what is happening. Hopefully they can give me some feedback on what it may be.
Thanks

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

this is from their site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/

THIS IS THE KIT YOU'VE HEARD THE RAVE REVIEWS ABOUT! Since their creation, the stock clutch hydraulic system has plagued LS1 F-Bodies. Shifting quickly at high RPM is extremely hard (in some cases even impossible), especially when using a beefy aftermarket clutch. Getting into first gear or reverse sitting still is sometimes a chore! The clutch pedal sticking to the floor is all too common, as well.

By combining our expertise with expert tuner and mechanical engineer Alvin Anderson (of PCMForLess) as well as employing a few concepts used by multiple NASCAR teams here in the Mooresville area, we developed an adjustable master cylinder kit that effectively and reliably solves all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past.

Our Tick Performance Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit ships complete with everything needed to install, including: our custom Tilton Adjustable Master Cylinder, our Unrestricted and Heat-Wrapped Clutch Hydraulic Line (eliminating the need for the "drill mod"), all necessary hardware, F-Body specific Billet CNC Aluminum mounting bracket for a complete firewall seal, and easy to understand instructions.

Our Adjustable Master Cylinder successfully flows more fluid than any other master cylinder available, makes clutch disengagement issues a thing of the past (with ANY clutch), uses a simple turnbuckle adjustment system and installs in 60-90 minutes. We also warranty these kits against failure for the entire time you own yours.

Rest assured that with our Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit installed, you'll have the quickest shifting, most reliable kit available under your left foot

rickyzZ28

iTrader: (4)

How about where is the line ran from the master cylinder? Is it close to one of the header primaries? Think it could be a heat issue? Sounds to me like an issue with the master cylinder itself, but never hurts to check other possibilities first.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

the line does run close to the header. I was thinking the same thing. This would explain why it happens after the car gets hot. I'll have to try putting a heat shield of some sort between the header and line. This would be an easy fix.

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

Seems that it was way out of adjustment. I didn't take the car out since it is raining, but just with the car running and the readjustment it seems to be going into each gear very smoothly. Hopefully this was an easy fix. Thanks for any input.

Ricky, I think I'm still going to make some sort of heat shield too just to be safe.

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

did your tick master work out ok for you after? I have the the same problem with the clutch pedal pin size, what did you end up doing? and did your car shift right after? thanks

cam-

^ The Tick master works great. A bit firmer pedal feel, but a reliable performer for sure.