samiam91RS

after a nice drive, I can just hear it from outside gurggling and bubbling. the coolant gets real real hot. I replaced the thermo + gasket, and it has a brand new water pump. sooo i dont know?
the air dam is still on underneath.
it runs like a champ during the winter (when I finally got it back)
but started having these issues when it started to get nice and warm.
ill be cruising and then all of a sudden my engine will "bog down" bad when i try to accelerate.
and if i lightly press the pedal itll pick up and go, but slowly. so I dont know if this is related to the overheating as well..but it only happens when she gets nice and warm after a good bit of driving.
I remember when it first happened me and my friends were booking it down the highway, running good then when i pull off and hit the stop lights it wanted to do that whole bogging down crap...
i really want to pin point this problem but running out of ideas

i searched and everything checks out ok i think..coolant is full, and im using a new stock thermo..
my runners get real hot too, and so does the plenum..i mean i know its metal/aluminum or whatever, but i figured that the intake with a ram air isnt supposed to get THAT hot, right??

naf

iTrader: (7)

Replace your radiator cap first. It's like $3. A bad cap will not hold the pressure needed to keep the fluid below boiling point. It will vent to the overflow and cause the motor to run hot.

In this case it's cheaper to throw the part at it. It's a service part anyway. Look at your old one, it's probably all brittle and cracked anyway.

If the cap doesn't fix your boiling over run the temps. If it's really getting in the 240 range it's overheating. If it's boiling over at around 220, pressure test the system.

samiam91RS

so i took it for another run last night and as i started out it was doing pretty well, then i started getting into it and that when it got hot again...real real hot. it got up to about 260! but kind of slowely. when i first start up the car the fan doesnt come on but i checked with the hood up, and it still does come on, so the fan is good too. I looked at the rad cap, and it looks fine to me, but ill replace it anyways since its cheap.

i did more searches since some ppl have the same problem as me, and one person said the lower rad hose that goes to the water pump should be replaced it it collapses real easily. i grabbed it and it didnt take much to squeeze it, so it is pretty weak/old it seems, but im not sure if that is the real problem. then again, i cant think of much more. if im using regular water for now also, but i know that not the issue. im going to flush the water and put 50/50 in anyways. im also going to replace the coolant temp sensor, since its also pretty cheap, easy to replace and im hoping it could play a factor in the overheat issue...

and if this is all related to my knock sensor, ill ****ing explode.

naf

iTrader: (7)

How do you know, I mean really know, that it got up to 260? I mean without relying on that pointy thing in the dash that just kinda waves around but is no real indication of the actual state of nature at the end of its sensor?

Replace the rad cap then pressure test the system. 50/50 won't cool any better (actually worse-but the pH advantage as far as corrosion is concerned is well worth the loss).

KS what?

Timmie

look if the radiator isnt clogged.
then also look if when the fan comes up, the temperature goes down.

bad radiator cap kan also make your water boil


( why do you think it has something to do with you r knock sensor , altough the bogging down, is looking familiar with a knock sensor problem I had.

samiam91RS

hey guys, thanks for the info.

after searching and searching, i read a few posts that a bad knock sensor can mess with timing, advance/retard whatever the case may be. making it run rich or lean, and thus making the temp from the firing hotter, thus making it get HOTT.

this is another reason...i started with my 305, same rad and setup and everything. never had any codes, and it always ran good.
did the swap, and have the codes, the only code i have now is the knock sensor code. so that means i need to replace it, or its not the right one.
so, its weird right? everything worked great in my 305, now all of a sudden after then swap, it overheats.
sound right?

i let it idle in my driveway and the fan would come on like its supposed to, and the temp would drop a bit, then start to increase a bit. so it looks good on that part.
i need to fix the KS problem..thats my last resort.
soon as my back heals up, i can crawl back under there and get to work. keep yall posted.

also, i replaced the rad cap, didnt do squat. new shiny cap looks good though! LOL