mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Dam,that cleaned up well.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

I am so pissed off right now. Today I was going to attempt the radiator swap.

I put the car on jack stands at the front and crawl under to check out the radiator connections before I drain it.

I find the transmission line flare nut is stripped out and has 30 years of rust and factory tightening backing it up.

This will require cutting the line and getting a new threaded nut and then reflaring the line. There's not enough room to wrestle it with a vise grip wrench. GRRRRRRRRRRRRR.

Why can't things ever go smoothly when working on a car?!?!?!?!?!?

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

I'm sorry to hear that. Old cars can certainly be challenging. But if it was easy, everyone would do it.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you are right DynoDave.

The flare nuts holding the fuel lines to the fuel filter while not stripped, are rock solid locked in place with factory tightening even after 2 days worth of soaking with WD 40 rust penetrator specialty spray. I can't believe that a fuel filter has never been changed from the factory in 30 years by previous owners. I don't want to risk twisting the fuel lines wrestling them around either so looks like I will need some outside help on this one.

I suspect the fuel filter is my nbr 1 source of engine hesitation and sputtering (along with the plugs and injectors) and I desperately want to change it out for a new one.

Flare nuts are my number one source of frustration at the moment.

Additional new development: my fuel gauge is not moving staying at 3/4 full. I haven't confirmed yet that there is a problem (I haven't driven the car enough miles yet) but I have a feeling the fuel tank sending unit is bad. From what I read here this is a major fix where you have to drop the trans and the tank to get to the unit for replacement.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Not the trans,it's the rear that has to be lowered down to get the tank.Just keep your fingers crossed and hope it's,you just didn't drive it enough to move the gauge.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Good news all around. I put the radiator and new water pump and new 180F thermostat on this week. Also got the fuel filter on with a little professional help.

I got the flare nut off the old radiator with vise grip pliers and put it back on the new one. No reflaring of the line and no leaks.

The only issue with the new aluminum radiator was that it is 1/2" taller than the stock one but I made it fit. Car is def running cooler now. Temp gauge got to 200 after 15 mins of running but then dropped down to 190 and held.

Had a great time getting the old waterpump plug out. Some genius had soaked it in red Lock Tite. A large vise and some muscle assistance from a nice guy in the tool section at Lowes got it out for me. Turns out I didnt need it as I bought a new brass plug and put that in the new pump.

I drained and flushed out the old radiator before putting the new one in. Hopefully I got all the old crap out. The drain liquid was a very pale green, almost all water. Also the car had no thermostat in it. I was shocked to see that.

The interior lights have been sorted out as well. All interior lights except the rear hatch light are working when the doors open and close.

Fuel gauge is working too. It has dropped from 3/4 full down to 1/3 now. WHEW. Missed the bullet on that one.

I need to redo my T-Top bar repair. I have some minor leaks so will have to pull out the seals and seal everything up with black silicone.

Next up is new AC Delco platinum spark plugs and MSD HEI Street Fire wire install.

Then its off to the body shop for both saggy doors to be repaired. I have all the pin kits and don't really want to attempt this by myself.

More updates to come. Thanks for reading!

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

The hatch light only turns on with the switch,not the doors,so your good there also.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

The hatch light is not turning on with the switch. I have replaced the bulb. Next step is to grind off the gunk on the terminal.

The_Wraith

Back in grade 4 a friends parents had that that exact T/A it was used as a family car. Nice to see an all stock looking one kicking around these days.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Well I keep running into good luck with this car.

The rear hatch light switch terminal plug was simply unplugged by somebody and never replugged. DUH. Today i finally took a look and it was a 2 minute fix. Now all interior lights are working.

After having a look at the original stock inflatable spare tire (with the original never used compressed air can) I invested in a cigarette lighter air inflator if I ever need it on the side of the road. Looks like the air inflator will occupy a permanent location in the rear cargo hole as I will never use that 30 year old air can under any circumstance. Now just gotta see if the original spare will hold air.

Next up are getting the damn saggy doors fixed and installing the AC Delco platinum spark plugs and MSD Street Fire wires then its onto a set of new 19lb fuel injectors.

Paint, wheel refurb and interior carpet/headliner down the road. Also looking at a new set of retro white letter tires as I hate the all black ones on there now.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Wraith!! Love the all white TA in your sig pic. SWEET.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Got new Taylor spark plug wires and the AC Delco Platinum spark plugs installed. What a bitch that was. I intend to never do that again. That 100K warranty from GM better be correct.

Also got a quote from a local Orlando body shop that has experience with classic cars.

To fix the 2 doors and repaint the car original Dark Red would be $3K.

To fix the 2 doors and change color would be $3700.

I'm thinking of going all black monochrome and changing the color. From what I have seen sitting in the body shop this can be done without looking half ***. I dunno.

Also want to get all 4 wheels polished and refurbed. Looking at $500 for that.

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

Hi, what is that switch you have to the left of the steering wheel on the dash next to fog light switch?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

"Got new Taylor spark plug wires and the AC Delco Platinum spark plugs installed. What a bitch that was. I intend to never do that again. That 100K warranty from GM better be correct."{end quote}
It's easier to install the plugs from underneath the car.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Manta I did it underneath the car on my back with my arm twisted all around the front suspension. Only took me an hour per plug.

Had to go buy a mini ratchet just to get to a few of them space was so tight.

Never seen so much stuff jammed into an engine compartment.

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Did the wire jumper ALDL and pulled my CEL code today.

The only code given was 34 - manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor signal voltage low

or since the 85s don't have MAP its this one:

34 - mass air flow (MAF) sensor or circuit - low airflow indicated

so im playing around with the MAF unplugging it and running the engine etc....

Might need a replacement MAF or hopefully not an ECM. We will see.

34- mass air flow (maf) sensor signal - low airflow indicated

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...igit-codes.php
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
34- mass air flow (maf) sensor signal - low airflow indicated

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...igit-codes.php
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
34- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor signal voltage low

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

Don't know what you are referring to. The fog light switch on/off and indicator light is the only thing to the left of the steering wheel.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Your code 34 also could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor Burn Off Relay,Mass Air Flow Sensor Power Relay.I would check those relays before you spend a small fortune on a MAF Sensor.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

You guy are making the rotator cuff in my left shoulder hurt just THINKING about this task. A job to look forward to in the cold of this coming winter.