34blazer

**** I forgot you were building a single turbo setup. I have a new GT3582R (like FE's)for sale. Just put it on fleabay too lol.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

If you were to buy one this is the one to get!

Thats what I run and love the thing. Works great and the map is nice so you don't have to jack the boost tooo high but if you do its still quite efficient. When the boost hits on this turbo you will know it

willexoIX

When funds become available and I get this thing running good thats the turbo I am going for. But I should be pretty happy with the little t3 for awhile; at least its not a t25, lol. That thing is tiny Mark. Might make decent power on a geo metro though!

Thanks for the offer blazer, but no funds available for it right now. Need a water pump, ac delete box, downpiping, and a couple odds and ends as soon as I get the funds to finish this up. At least I can still do the driving school for that ticket to avoid points and pay it in 90 days instead of 30.

willexoIX

Lol, you were posting while I was so I didnt even see it. Thats kinda like the 95 nissan sentra my friend has, timing chain broke twice in 9 months, the first time it killed the cam gears, second time bent 2 exhaust valves, and just blew a rad. They dont want to get rid of it cause the damn thing gets like 35-37 mpg lol.

willexoIX

Lol, my carport smells like cookies, digiorno, and header coating; what an interesting combination. I brought them all up to 450° till they started to smoke, left the oven on for about 10 minutes then turned it off. They are slowly cooling in the closed oven. That should do it no?

I have read that you put them on a car, run it till it starts smoking, then turn it off and let them heatsoak and cool to cure the coating. So Im pretty sure I replicated that in the oven pretty well, minus the exhaust gases.

Once I get the funds for the rest, Ill grab a new oil pan gasket as well, pop the motor mounts, remove the dizzy cap, and jack the motor just enough to get the oilpan off to do the bung.

Today I am doing the valve lash. Yesterday I had the turbo bolted up on the passenger side header(sorry no pics), and was toying around with the charge piping. There is literally only going to be about 3 inches of exposed aluminum charge pipe! I know its my first turbo install, but i would think that having the silicone 4 ply connectors insulating 99% of the charge piping would be a good thing. Besides heatsoak when you shut it off.

I think all and all I like the placement of the turbo now, seems to have good clearance all around and the exhaust housing will have a blanket and clear the belt and accesories, the fan, and everything else. After those headers are done cooling ill bolt it up with the turbo and take a pic.

project89

iTrader: (1)

some inspiration for ya

started with a apir of these


and ended up with these






have to refit 1-2 pieces to get rid of some gaps but those are the headers im replacing my log headers with

willexoIX

Nice Dave. Heres the headers and crossover, wrapped, coated and cured. A little side project, sweeps in the shifter instead of the plastic that always breaks; looks much better in person.

project89

iTrader: (1)

nice, once i get these headers finished i need to get them blasted , and eithe rpianted and wrapped or jet hot coated

willexoIX

I did a crapload of research on using wrap with the coating, general consensus is if its done right, itll last. Im pretty sure I did it right so Im hoping to get 5+ years out of them. Most who use the dei stuff says 5 to 7 years and all is well so thats what Im hoping for.

By that time Ill have good headers built and Ill ceramic coat or something like that.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you have the entire header wrapped flange to flange if you want to make it last. Wherever there's air contact that's where the heat will go. Holy crap over 1k posts already?

willexoIX

I know right? This thread got huge pretty quick, lol.

The only place without wrap is the primarys, but they got extra thick coats of header paint. I have just enough wrap for the downpipe where itll be in the engine bay. All that was done with a single 50ft x 2inch roll of the titanium stuff. Shame I had to coat them, that titanium wrap looked damn cool too.

willexoIX

Is the chiltons valve lash procedure correct? While the car is off adjustment. After doing the first sequence, tdc 1, intake 1, 5, 6, exhaust 1, 2, 3. Once lash is eliminated, 1 1/2 turns.

After that there feels like no resistance when turning the motor by hand. For me that seems like 1 1/2 additional turn is too much and its leading to the valves staying slightly open. Then again I dont know everything about this type of valve train.

Am I going to wind up breaking something when I get it back together and started? Or is the book correct?

willexoIX

I can also say that you can use the carbed 2.8 valve cover gaskets on MPFI 2.8s, at least my 89 anyway. Zero modification, it lines right up with the valve cover with no problems.

For now I did the valve lash 1/2 turn past zero lash. 1 1/2 turns and I lost all compression. Backed them off and redid with that 1/2 turn past zero, got compression back.

Just looking for some confirmation before I put these valve covers back on.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Yep, all iron head 660s use the some mounting flange pattern for the rocker cover gaskets.

willexoIX

Did a little refresh on the valve covers. We will see how the plastidip does, willing to try anything once for the cause.

willexoIX

Mark, Dave, or anyone who has done valve lash without new cam, lifters, etc..

Need to know how you guys do your valve lash. 1 1/2 turns for preload after zero lash takes away my compression, which is the procedure that is most common to come up when I search. But there are also a handful of different answers for setting preload; 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn etc.

Which is the best when you are just doing the lash adjustment and not adding a cam and lifters?

Also, i did the 1 1/2 turns on a couple rockers, thats when I discovered lack of compression. I backed off the nuts on those and readjusted the ones I did 1 1/2 turns on, to 1/2 turn. Will that be accurate or do they have to be redone after the car was run?

I know how the lifters work, just looking for confirmation before I bolt those valve covers back on.

I also did the relevant valves at tdc 1 and tdc 4, per the book, just dont trust the 1 1/2 turns.

project89

iTrader: (1)

1.5 turns is far to much , .5-.75 should be ust about right , u will know when u fire it if they are to lose or to tight

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Back when I had adjustable valve train on my 660, I would pull the rocker covers, start the engine and set them just to the point that they stopped rattling. If I was first setting them to fire the engine, I would go about half a turn past zero lash.

project89

iTrader: (1)

thats how ill usually do it , 1/2 turn on the stand , then get engine installed and do them one at a time with the engine running

back one off till it clicks , then tighten slowly till it stops then go 1/2 turn form there

last time i did a cam on a 60* .5 of a turn was just a bit loose it took 3/4 turn to get them set right

with a stock cam 1/5 may be fine though , im not sure as anytime ive had one down that far it got an aftermarket cam

willexoIX

Thanks guys, ill just button it up for now, then when I get around to that first start ill do them while running if they are too loose. How much oil can I expect without the clips? I have a set but I have read they wont clear the 2.8 middle intake.

project89

iTrader: (1)

if the clips wont clear u can roll up a large rag and lay it across the top of the rockers

but the rocker oil clips should fit just fine depending on what type u have

willexoIX

They are pontiac v8 clips, thats all i know about them. Ill throw up a pic when I find them for reference

willexoIX

Here is that switch panel I was working on. Should have the funds to finish this project up in the next couple days. Things I had lined up keep falling through so my dad is letting me finish it up on his dime.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i was going to do a switch panel like that in mine , but then i decided to get sneaky about it

i removed my switches for both fans and the fuel pump and setup the ms to control all of it , then the only switch i needed was for launch control.

since my power release on my rear hatch dont work i repurposed the hatch switch for my antilag/launch control should work great will only be a few more days before i can test it

on a side note my 4 inch hood showed up but was severly damaged , 2 mins on the phone with customer service and they are shipping me out a new hood no questions asked hopefully it will be here before the weekend

willexoIX

Damn, hopefully the second hood is pristine.

Well im gonna use the MS main power switch as an anti-theft dohickey, and none of the switches will be labeled. The intercooler fan switch will actually be run in parallel with the MS, that way I have manual override of the fan IF I need it. Im thinking if my idle is gonna be right around 1000, then I may set the ic fan to go off around 14-1500 rpms. Ill know more on where the sweet spot is once its up and running. Which Im hoping is soon.

Youll probably have yours running and be tuning by the time I get mine done. Murphys law seems to be in full effect on my build so I have started triple checking everything.

Sneaky using that hatch release switch for your antilag

While I am waiting to pick up the last of what I need, Ill be finishing up wiring for all the switches, I can wire up all the way up to the relay for the ic fan, but cant go any further till i get the ic mounted.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Why would your idle be so high?

willexoIX

I was still in the tuning phase, so instead of tweaking the idle to 900 in park, then recalibrating the tps again and again when making changes to the tune, I just left it where it was for now till everything is buttoned up.

Remember Im not using the IAC, so idle is a bit tricky right now. Im aiming for 900 in park, the 14-1500 number is the cutoff for the intercooler fan. Ill still be making changes so I left it be for now.

When I was tuning it was a pita to keep recalibrating the tps before i was taking it out for datalogging; change idle screw, turn car off, calibrate tps, turn car back on, check idle, yadda yadda.

Ill get it where it needs to be after I take care of the rest of the tuning.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

I don't think your combo is too wild, and even without an IAC you should be able to get a lower idle than 900. You should be able to get down to at least 800, if it was me, I'd be shooting for 750.

I know what a 900 RPM idle is like, I run that in my Datsun, not because I have to, I don't I can get it to idle around 600 RPM, but the alternator doesn't charge below about 875, so I keep it high. I really wish I could have found a larger crank pulley (from a ZX) to get rid of this problem...

project89

iTrader: (1)

my v6 car idles around 650 but only caus ei have a loose converter , with the stocker the best i could do was around 800ish

heres some pics of the hood i got man is it damaged good




and closeups of the damage

willexoIX

Ouch, glad they cleared that up pretty quick. I know I could most likely get the idle down lower but right now im not really worried about it. Ill see what will work once its running and tuned.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Damn, that hood is all sorts of messed up.

project89

iTrader: (1)

sad thing is i need the hood was going to be damaged before i even opened up the box , its just my luck

willexoIX

Nah, just the luck of the draw. You and Mark may have yours running before mine. My funds will be coming real soon.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Im just waiting on this trigger wheel. Im so impatient its sad...

willexoIX

I know exactly how you feel. Im going nuts over here waiting to finish my car, lol

willexoIX

Ill have updates real soon cause Im going to be picking up whats left today

Stay tuned!

willexoIX

So how am I getting this oil pan off? Its blocked by the flexplate and front bearing cap on the motor. I have an engine hoist on the motor, the motor mounts separated, and the single bolt out of the trans mount. Motor is up about as high as it can go.

project89

iTrader: (1)

take the distributor out and the motor will go higher

u also have to rotate the crank 90* at a time to get the pan to slid eout

u can also drop the trans emember with a jack and block of wood under the trans pan , this will tip the motor even further back

be awar u have to disconect the shifter cable off the side of the trans first

project89

iTrader: (1)

why r u taking the pan off anyways ? its much less work to just weld the return fitting with the pan in on the engine in the car , just use a punch ( not a drill) to make the hole

willexoIX

Im putting the bung in a spot that you cant do with the pan on. Motor is up against the firewall and cant go any higher. I guess Ill try to get the trans mount off and see how that goes.

Other reason is leaking oil pan gasket in the rear, and the front of it isnt attached to the rest of the gasket. Once I get this part done I can start putting it all together and it should go pretty fast after that, provided I dont run into anymore fitment issues.

project89

iTrader: (1)

dont unbolt the trans mount , take out the 4 bolts that go into the subfram that hold the x member up , just put a jack under it first or it will fall on ya

its very hard to get the pan off with the motor in the car

willexoIX

Lol, i always do something your about to tell me not to do before you say it.

I have a scissor jack under the trans mount, and a floor jack with a block of wood under the pan, im making slow progress on it

Edit- I got it off

1991sleeper

iTrader: (-3)

Lol when I built my motor I forgot to put the oil pimp driveshaft in ! Didn't realize it until the motor was in car everything buttoned up and about to drop dizzy in :-o ... sucked ***** ! ... I ended up lifting the motor a few inches still bolted to trans .. dropping the pan down far enough to see the oil pump and took the collar off the driveshaft and dropped it in from the top , then ... put collar on from the bottom and ever sooooo carefully drove the cotter pin in :-o ... it was easier than it could have been but it was nerve racking holding that little tiny cotter pin above the open oil pan

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

project89

iTrader: (1)

is that "edit i got it off" for the trans mount or oil pan??? lmao

on a side note i just took delivery of a second 4 inch cowl hood , fedex did a good job of geting this one to me without as much as a scratch on the box

willexoIX

Glad to hear that. I got the oil pan off. When I get back to it tomorrow things should start going back together fast.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah wont take long now

i just got back from putting the hood on the car didnt have time to do anything else though

willexoIX

Got the bung welded on the oil pan, its about an inch higher than the one in the pic Mark posted. Got it sandblasted and powdercoated. Looks brand spankin new!

Just gotta clean the inside out and its ready to go back on. Then I can drop the engine off the hoist and get those mounts bolted back up. So far the only things left to fabricate are the downpipe once I pick the pipe up, then the scoop.

Im thinking before I do the scoop Im going to run it with no hood while tuning and getting any bugs worked out, and I will run the IC fan constantly. Then I will worry about the scoop. Im also going to remove the seal on the back side of the hood for some heat extraction, and to create a better pressure situation to help with the IC scoop.

willexoIX

Oil pan is on, engine is lowered back in the car, all mounts connected. You can see where I put the bung, front passenger side of the pan. Also I put up a pic of those rocker clips and I think they will hit the plenum.

willexoIX

Well the front two passenger side primaries cracked when I tightened them down due to cold welds. Got them fixed and Im working on grinding down the welds. Man that Xpipe is tight, Ill wind up picking up a mini starter in the future, the collector flange is super close to the starter, everything else is clear though.

Got the feed and return oil lines mocked up, first crank Ill crank with no fuel or spark to prime the feed line, then once thats primed Ill start it with the return disconnected to make sure oiling is good.

Tomorrow ill be changing the water pump, once thats done ill be bolting up the turbo and putting the top end back together, then charge piping and relocating the battery back to the passenger side.

Maybe, just maybe I might have a chance to start it tomorrow, still have to pick up a new belt and weld the power steering pump bracket. So we will see. Looking like maybe the next few days though.

project89

iTrader: (1)

ok so either ur out enjoying the thing , or ur still putting it together



UPDATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ps mine will be back on the road tommorow