89JYturbo

I was covering my LQ4 swap over in the motor swap section, but figured the power adder forum would want to see the actual turbo system build. This started out as a single turbo build, but I ended up going to an asymmetrical twin turbo set-up for something unique. This will be progressing slowly, but I'll update as a go.

Turbo specs:
Compressor is a Blouch Turbo 57/76MM billet wheel in a TO4S cover
Center will be the a water cooled garrett BB
Turbine is a 64MM 32R wheel in a TiAl .82A/R v-band housing

Engine is a refreshed 04' LQ4 6.0L with an LS9 cam. I plan to control everything with megasquirt but not sure which version yet.

This build is to replace a twin turbo TPI set-up I did 10+ years ago.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Looks great. I still remember the original setup. How many miles did you put on the stock cast manifolds that you welded with the MIG?

The Z24 still have the 2.8 or did you put a 3.1 in it? All stock? Those are some good 1/4 mile numbers for the Z24.

Putting a 4L60E behind the LQ4?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Your original car got me into turbos in the first place and made me learn how to build one haha

Very cool setup, never seen a twin setup like that with turbos mounted off to the one side. Wonder how much if any difference in spool time there will be with the driver side having to run farther? Probably not much to notice.

Nice project

89JYturbo

Wow, thats cool. I was never happy with the performance of that first set-up (mainly due to it lacking a good programable EMS, but there were other issues). Its good to know it inspired others though. It was more show than go- I want this system to show AND go. Its been a while since I was on here, I'll have to check out your set-up too.

Thats the whole point

Each turbine inlet pipe is the same length from the end of the manifold to the turbine inlet flange. I'm considering installing a balance pipe too, to ensure each turbo will see the same drive pressure. What do you think about that? I could mount the wastegate(s) on the balance pipe.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Webshots hosting site went under and all my pics were linked from there in all my threads . I rehosted them on photobucket but havent revised my threads yet. Just been lazy haha its gonna take awhile lol

I saved a few of your old setup's photos. Was definately a good looking show setup.

Balance pipe idea should work as long as both banks feed a large enough wastegate to handle the flow to control boost. I cant say i have seen it done that way but to me, in theory, it should work. I would just make sure the takeoff pipes from each exhaust bank come off in the direction of flow like a Y pipe. Not 90 deg. Should flow better and see better control imo, looking at it in a fluid flow dynamics point of view.

Just have to buy a big gate but should still be cheaper than 2 small ones and less lines to run for vacuum reference. Plus its much more unique that way

89JYturbo

That system had 10k miles or so on it. I just MIG'd piping directly to these truck manifolds too. Lots of people are doing it now, I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with that.

The Z24 has a OHV 3400 V6 from a venture minivan. The engine is all stock junkyard parts, but it currently has 3500 heads and lower intake manifold on it and three pistons from another junk 3400 (after I ripped ring lands off- GM gas very tight ring gaps on the top compression ring to meet emission standards- too tight for 16psi of boost!).

Still running a Tremec 5-speed. But for what I spent on a clutch, flywheel and bellhousings I really should have put a 4L80 in it. I just have a hard time converting the car back to auto when I converted it to a manual trans years ago. I prefer a manual transmission but I'm sure it would be faster with an auto.

89JYturbo

Link?

Yeah, I see no reason why a balance pipe would hurt. I thought of building the balance pipe with a v-band connection in the center, so if it didn't work for what ever reason I could sandwich a sheetmetal disc between the v-band flanges to seal it off. That would also allow for back to back testing for R&D sake. If I wanted to do that though, I would need to mount two wastegates so that each turbo could still be controlled when the balance pipe is blocked off.

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

quite few options
msd 6010 with ms1(msd box fires coils/ms controls injectors)
ls modded microsquirt v2( fuels/fires ls motor off stock sensors. only need crank sensor for ignition) using this on my build
or the newer
ms3 gold box. has even more features than the above 2 but way more $$. i priced bout 1400$ for one for my car with harness. ended up with microsquirt and got less than 700$ with wb02 sensor and gage.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Looking like some well thought out and well executed fabrication, a nice change to see around here, keep up the good work !

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Pics arent in order...most are from my first build with log/header hybrids and then my latest big build with tube headers and the big head/cam swap, relocating turbos all under hood this time

this should work
http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/Or...0Turbo%20Build

89JYturbo

A little more progress.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That is really cool

89JYturbo

I've been working on this slow and steady. The hot side is all finished and painted. I also did major modification to the factory cross-member. I fabricated a removable center section in the cross-member which will allow the oil pan to be removed without pulling the motor and it will also allow the engine to be removed without first removing the transmission. The cross-member was also notched for clearance for turbo oil drain fittings/plumbing to be welded into the pan.

89JYturbo

More pics.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Killer looking setup. I always liked the old setup also. I prob. still have pic's on HD of when I coated your manifolds.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Update on this build?

Anti-Venom

That is some killer plumbing work. I like.

89JYturbo

Still working at it!

I got the cross-member sand blasted and powder coated. It is installed and ready to go. I was happy with how that came out- it was a major part of the job and I'm glad that's behind me! I can't find a picture off hand (I'll try to post one later tonight).

I am currently finishing up the engine reassembly (waiting on valve springs). Once the engine is buttoned up it and the drivetrain will go back in for the final time.

For EMS bought a MegaSquirtPro from DIYautotune. I can't wait to start wiring it up.

87oldschool

Just a quick question, can I assume since the K-member is out you will be doing the final install with trans and lowering the car over the setup?
Thanks,
87OldSchool

89JYturbo

I could have done it that way, but part of the reason I modified the cross-member like I did was to allow the engine and/or oil pan to be removed with minimal collateral disassembly.

The cross-member is already back in the car for the final time, with the engine and trans to be added soon.

Anti-Venom

I'm really diggin that you used the vette bracket and truck manifold. I've wondered if that would clear or not. Is your motor moved forward at all? Looks to be a close fit. Have you tried to mock up your PS lines yet?

89JYturbo

The engine is in the stock location front to back. It is 1/2" lower and 1/2" to the driver side from the original SBC position. I found that the stock SBC location is actually offset 1" to the passenger side from center, so my engine is now only 1/2" from center. The driver side head is about 1/4" from the firewall, so its back as far as it can go without firewall mods.

I have not tried mocking up the power steering lines. I was not too worried about that, but maybe I should be?

EDIT:
attached is a pic with it in the car, should have plenty of room for power steering lines. The high pressure line coming out of the pump points back toward the harmonic balancer, so it shouldn't interfere at the pump or steering box.

Anti-Venom

Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it. Your build definitely gives me some good info to go off of. I was wondering why others have said that a truck manifold hits the crossmember? Must be b/c they're trying to use the stock flange I assume.

89JYturbo

Yeah, there's no way you'll fit the flipped truck manifolds with the stock flanges on them without major surgery to the rest of the car. Fortunately the manifolds cut and weld very easily.

shawnc16

Wow! This is a badass build. I'll keep an eye on this for inspiration on my junk. Too damn cold to work in the garage this winter in MI. Should make some steam!

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

OMG im so following this as its what I wanted to do this winter till plans fell thru. Oh well theres next winter and just collecting the parts for it still. I cant wait to see it running and the numbers it puts down

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Any new updates on this? I love this setup. Only setup that has me thinking of doing twins instead of a big single. love the looks. Reminds me of a Supra! I think this also helps me keep my head off of putting a 2JZ in and selling my LS stuff lol

Jay

89JYturbo

I am taking a few days off work to get back on this project, I hope to have the engine in for the last time by this time next week, and be started on wiring in the MegaSquirt pro.

89JYturbo

Some final assembly:

The main project left yet is the wiring and megasquirt EFI installation. I'll basically be rewiring everything under the hood.

I plan to test run/drive the car initially on the mock up turbo's. I'm not sure if it shows in the pics, but the bearing housings are empty (no shaft/wheels- we put bolts in the shaft bore to seal the turbine housings).

Once all the bugs are worked out I'll take the turbo system back apart and wrap it all, then install the real turbos!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

OMFG thats so clean. I love the placement of the coils. Does that intake fit under stock hood? Or only because you made the mounts?

Jay

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

That's the first thing I thought when I saw the pics!! Looks like jewelry under the hood! Very nice! Lot of hard work and it shows! Lovin it...

89JYturbo

Thanks for the compliments.

The intake is a very tight fit, it won't fit under a stock hood, especially with the engine installed with your average off-the-shelf mounts (the mounts I made lowered the engine 1/2" from the stock). My hood is a stock hood with the center raised up like a cowl hood, but the under-hood support structure is stock. I had to remove a small part of the support structure to clear the throttle body flange.

shawnc16

That looks clean as hell. Nice work!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well you just saved me a great deal of money by sticking with the stock intake! hahah

Cant wait to see some footage of this thing in action.

Jay

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I don't get it….is this your car he's building?? He's saving you money??

89JYturbo

No, this is my car. He's saying he will stick to the stock intake on his car since the Edelbrock intake I used won't clear a stock hood (without mods).

abray1

Stacked turbos is a first for me. Looks very strong. It just needs two turbos stacked on the other side to balance it out ha ha.

89JYturbo

All the wiring is done, exhaust is done, its aligned, inspected and drivable. On to the tuning!

89JYturbo

More pics

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

looks great! better than great actually.

grover85

iTrader: (1)

That intake clears a stock hood?

RS Chris

Look at post 32.

89JYturbo

Tuning is going good so far. The MS3-Pro from DIYautotune is working great. Its pretty much dialed in for normal street driving. I can' believe how good it drives with minimal tuning; I don't even have acceleration enrichment turned on yet, and it drive's almost as good as stock.

I'm also impressed with the smooth drivability of the McLeod RST twin disc clutch set-up. Wasn't sure how that was going to work, I had quiet a hodge-podge of a parts combo in this build (LS engine + .400 thicker Mcleod flywheel + aftermarket bellhousing for SBC + Ford input shafted TKO 600, etc, etc).

I still have the original stock fuel pump in the car and it can't keep up with this motor even NA so I can't dial in WOT yet. I was planning to install two Walbro 255's in the tank before installing the real turbochargers, so that's no big deal (its nice to datalog fuel pressure so you can see it dropping before its a problem). I removed the external booster pump I was using with my TT TPI system because it was too loud.

shawnc16

Walbro makes a 450 single pump... You might be better off with that. Running the dual pump setup in the 3rd gen tank is an absolute bitch!

89JYturbo

You mean from an installation standpoint? Or are there other issues? I liked the idea of always having a back-up fuel pump available in case one would ever fail (say in the middle of drag week 2015...). I don't fully trust some of the big high performance pumps out there for road tripping.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i would agree.... seems like a pair or 3 walbros would be super reliable. definitely wouldn't be stranded on the side of the road due to a bad pump. one might go bad, but the odds of both going out at the same time are slim.

shawnc16

Having installed twin pumps in the tank, the whole process just sucks. They barely fit, and by barely, they are scraping the sides as you shove them down the sending unit hole. No way in hell you're getting 3 pumps down there.

You have to situate the pumps so both of them are feeding from the bottom of the tank. It takes some trial and error. I plan on doing this whole setup over again, and I'm going to sump the stock tank. Holley makes some badass quiet pumps now that'll support what you need. That or the single Walbro.

89JYturbo

Thanks for the input. Now I have more to think about...

3rdgencamaros

Beautiful build so far! Great work on the hot side plumbing

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Get a 4th gen plastic tank! Easily fit 2 pumps in the bucket and good to 1000whp. I have 3 now with no bucket in my tank now for insurance and hopefully 1200-1300 whp next spring