Austin19

First of all, the car is a 1985 Camaro LG4 with full exhaust and all other stock, apart from a 7* BTC timing

I have a 160F thermostat in my car (due to it overheating last summer), but I have now installed an electric pusher fan as well as a better air dam to help cooling in the summer. However, the car still approaches 200-210F on a slightly warm day (15C/59F), in traffic, with the fan on. I understand the third gens don't have the best air flow so overheating isn't too out of the ordinary.

However, it confuses me when the temperature drops to a colder temp (-15C/5F) or lower, and the car will not even reach 160F with the heater off, electric fan off (still clutch fan though). It sits around 130-135F.

Could this be a weak water pump or is it just part of the challenge of an 80s V8?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Our cars are designed to run hot, in the 225-235*F range. So unless it's boiling over, at 200*F it's in the sweet spot and you're fine.

As for not getting warm enough, that's usually a sign of a stuck thermostat. Have you run an infrared thermostat on the radiator or upper radiator hose to see what sort of temps there are? This will also tell you if your factory gauge is off or not.

Austin19

My car has never boiled over but when it gets above 200F it smells like something is burning, so it scares me and I usually let it cool off, but next time I will let it go and see what it does.

I have not ran another thermo, but I will start to do that soon. I just changed my thermostat about a year ago, so I guess it could be a faulty one.

Thanks for your help

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

The infrared thermostats are ones you point at a spot on the engine or radiator and it will give you a reading. This will give you an idea of how hot your radiator/engine temp is compared to what your gauge says.

If it smells like something is burning, do you have a small radiator leak? If you do, that could be what you're smelling, the hot fluid.

Either way, I'd let it go and see when your fans turn on. IF they do and the car cools down without boiling over, then your system is working, even if it's hotter than you'd prefer.

Austin19

Thanks, Oz. Yeah I have an infrared thermostat, just used it last month to make sure all my cylinders were firing after installing headers! Thanks for your info, I will definitely check to see if the thermo is working properly. I don't think I have a rad leak, unless it has gone unnoticed somehow.

abray1

You need a 170 stat or a 180. You will need to move enough air through the radiator to get rid of the heat which requires a very good fan. I went to a taurus fan and problem solved. Lets look at coolant. You need 50/50 water and anti freeze. The anti freeze raises your boiling point so you dont lose your water when it gets hot. You also need two bottles of water wetter or two bottles of purple ice.This will help for about a 15 degree drop. The bigger the radiator the better and you can run your heater to help cool your car in a tight. Get barrs stop leak if your radiator is old and leaking since it wont hold pressure then.