jesse.allen

Hey guys. After a lot of time and money I finally got my 83’ Z28 registered and inspected here in Texas. Then I immediately took it to the dyno and to the track. Definitely not as good as some here but I have a lot of room for improvement. Here are the car specifications and my results. Let me know if you have questions about my set up.

Car List
Engine: Goodwrench 350/260hp (Yea, that's right!)
Heads: Stock, low flow and compression (this is my biggest wall to overcome right now)
Cam: Comp XE 262H
Intake: Edelbrock Performer Air Gap
Carburetor: Edelbrock 1406 (Mechanical Fuel Pump)
Gas: 93 Octane
Air Induction: Old school 14” x 3” round filter with 2”steel cowl hood.
Exhaust: Summit Shorty Headers, Flowmaster Exhaust, No Cats
Transmission: Monster Transmission Heavy Duty 700r4
Shifter: B&M Megashifter
Rear End: Stock, 3.23 Posi
Suspension: Everything listed is new and upgraded (Mainly UMI): Front A-Arms, steering components, front sway bar, springs and shocks all around, LCAs, panhard bar, track bar, and rear sway bar.
Tires: Firehawk Indy 500 - 215/65-15
Other:
Innovative Motorsports Wideband: This single purchase enabled me to very finely tune my carb
Heat Protection: Heat shields around fuel lines and beneath carb to protect from heat (Very effective)
Thermostat: Changed to a 160* and it helped a LOT with my electric fan.

Had her Dyno’d on 04 Apr 14
Rear Wheel HP: 230
Rear Wheel TQ: 310

Went to the track on 05 Apr 14
Best 1/4 Mile: 14.3@95 mph

AlkyIROC

Not too bad. Without knowing race weight or the density altitude, it's hard to make a fair comparison but I put your ET and MPH numbers into my spreadsheet with an estimated 3500 pound race weight and it spit out 236 HP from ET and 234 HP from MPH which is pretty close to your actual dyno numbers. Dyno numbers should be corrected for sea level. Track results are real world numbers.

At least you now have a baseline to go by but you need to keep track of weather. Your next change to the vehicle may increase or decrease performance but without knowing if the change was weather related or not, you're not going to be sure if the change was worth it or not.

Lets say you upgrade to 3.73 gears and the next time you go out, you're running slower or the same times however the weather conditions have gotten worse (summer heat, humidity etc) and the gear change probably was better. The weather just made it look worse or no change.

Tune for MPH. That's the best indication of HP. If MPH drops, you did something wrong. ET depends on traction. Spin off the line and you can usually still run the same MPH but ET will be much slower.