Jagu07

Hey Everyone,
Last time i was on this page i was when i was 19 or 20 yrs old, which was when i first had my first 1992 Camaro RS 25th Edt TBI 305 5speed. unfortunately that car was junked due to major damage to the motor, at that time i was not able to fix the problem and had to let it go.
On a brighter note just recently i decided to hunt down my original first car, it was a long search but i managed to stay positive and located an Exact Match!! It was Completely Stock NO Alterations to Anything Like a Dream come true!! LOL Had to Drive 7hr down to SoCal for it. Well worth the gas and time!!
So that's a little brief history on my car and how i became a Third Gen Owner. Now the project on hand is as follows.

I took out the original center console out and installed one from a 98 camaro ( just like everyone has done). I'm planning on taking out the original power window switches and installing Momentary On/Off Push Buttons Switch (picture shown below). Has there been anyone that has done something like this? It would be great to see how anyone has gone about in doing this switch mod. If not i will be trying to do my best in keeping this thread updated every week and giving details on doing this mod.

Knowing that this are on/off push buttons i assume i will be needing 2per each original switch.

Ghettobird52

Welcome back bro! Same thing to me got on this forum when i first got my f-body (17 back in 09). Unfortunately got another DD and neglected this bitch for 2 1/2-3 years. But im back!! lol that looks like a sweet idea, let me know if you go through with it! where you located in Norcal? Modesto here

eseibel67

Hey Ghettobird: I live in Canada, but my car was origianlly purchased at Alfred Matthews Cadillac.

Jagu: Yes, you will need a total of 4 of this type of switch to operate the windows. I think you might need switches that can handle more amperage, however. These cars put the full motor draw through the switch, and I doubt 5 amps is within the safety margin.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Definitely need some heavier-duty switches. The window motors can definitely pull a lot more than 4 amps. The circuit breaker is rated at 30 amps. You could always use them to trip a relay though, but you'll need 4 of those as well. And I don't think the wiring would end up being very pretty for all of that.

I like the fact that they are lighted though. Would make them easier to locate at night when driving.

Ghettobird52

no way!!!! i live 5 minutes away from "dealer drive" (what we call that part of mchenry ave with all the dealerships) thats crazy did you used to live down here or did you purchase it and drive back up? The third gen???

eseibel67

No, unfortunately I have never been to California. I bought my 01 WS6 6-speed convertible from a lady in Turlock 6 years ago just by pictutures on the internet. Then had it shipped to Detroit so I could pick it up.

The third gen is owned by my son and he bought it locally.

Jagu07

Ghettobird52:
hey man thanks, in im the bay, SJ to be exact.

And yes you guys are correct i was doing some research and found the schismatic for the window system the total amps that are being pulled are 35A, and yes i might just run some relays. In regards to the wiring ill see what i can do to keep it as clean as possible

I will find a way to get this switches in my car!! lol No worries electrical is no problem.
The benefits of working in an Electrical Contract Manufacturing Company, is that i have a couple of electrical engineers that wont mind helping with a little side project.

Back to the schismatics.
I recently bought the Camaro Haynes Repair Manual when i was replacing the clutch just 2 weeks ago, and found a MUCH better schismatics in there.
here is a picture for you guys who don't have them.


my next step is to figured out the wiring and put it on paper for better understanding.
will update on Monday.

86White_T/A305

While I get trying to have a more modern power window switch in the car would be nice.I just dont think those buttons look at home in our cars. I think there are better factory type looking switches you can get and will make wiring a breeze:

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/ite...?ProductID=163

or

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/ite...?ProductID=157

Just my opinion though and giving some options.

RedLeader289

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I agree with 86White_T/A305. A more up to date toggle switch, IMHO, would look less out of place (even on the 4th gen console). I also imagine that you would grow tired of having 4 switches to operate 2 windows.

In the end, it's your car, do with it as you please.

subscribed.

eseibel67

By the looks of the scematics, a couple of those round switches for each window should work.

On the new "up" switch:

pin C = dark blue wire to the motor
pin NC = ground
pin NO = 12v

On the new "down" switch:

pin C = brown wire to the motor
pin NC = ground
pin NO = 12v

The "+" and "-" pins get wired into the instrument lights.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I did this already, just follow the thread and do what I did: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-switches.html

92RS_Ttop was even one of the guys that helped me.

Jagu07

whats up ppl.
I haven't had time to work on the schismatics, this past weekend i been working on my brothers Dodge Neon dam tyranny went out.

Tibo: I check it out, Sweet man that looks clean! how are the switches holding up?
eseibel67: thanks that how i was thinking on wiring it up but i want to include the relays.

so i got all my relays and dual relay connectors with all 6 switches coming in by this Friday so lets hope i get it done this weekend and get my windows moving again...

norcalz28

iTrader: (13)

Welcome back. Look forward to checking out the progress on this.

Will

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The instrument lights don't really have separate power & ground wires. They get + from the parking lights! and usually ground together with one or more other gauges.

The easiest way to wire the lights on the switches is connect the + pin to the interior lights wire in the radio harness. It should be brown, and is "on" when the headlights or parking lights are on. The - pin on the switches gets wired to a good ground. There are several screws under the center console you can use for this. Just connect all the wires from -pins on the switches together and put a crimp-style ring terminal on the end.

Dark blue & brown go to the driver's side window. Light blue & tan go to the passenger's side window. So you need to transfer the C NO & NC connections to terminals 30 87 & 87a respectively on the relays you use. You can tie the +12v into both the C pin on the switch and terminal 30 on the relay for each one. Then connect the NO pin on the switch to one side of the relay coil and connect the other side of the coil to ground.

Jagu07

I have a question for you guys with the (4th gen) center counsel.

Have you closed up the ash tray in the center, and what type of marital did you use?

-carbon?
-sheet Metal?
-Plastic?
-fiber glass?

I want to use something but don't know what would work best?
I had it closed up with thick 1/8 plastic glued in place with epoxy and drilled holes for my original window switches.

Jagu07

So we have got some schismatics on how i'm going to wire each switch.

wiring is as follows:
One Window schismatics

UP-Push Button & Relay

(+) = 12v
(-) = Ground
NO = 12v
NC = leave alone
C = Relay 85
87 = 12v
30 = DK BLU wire
86 = Ground
87a = Ground

Down- Push Button & Relay
(+) = 12v
(-) = Ground
NO = 12v
NC = leave alone
C = Relay 85
87 = 12v
30 = Brown wire
86 = Ground
87a = Ground

This way the LED in the button will always be lit when the car is running.


eseibel67:
I just realized that if (+) and (-) get wired to the instrument light you will be able to dim the LED's and control the on/off buy the *** that would be way better!!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The switches are holding up fine. Just wire them properly so they are only energizing the relay.

eseibel67

I like your written description better than the picture. It will work. You have a diode symbol for the lights in the switch. And just to make the whole thing make more sense, show the ground connection at 87a at both relays.

And yes, in this scematic the switch lights will always be on with ignition. Would be better to rig them to the interior lights.

Gumby

wonder how a power antenna works, maybe it would help ya. it has one power wire, hit it, it goes up, hit it, it goes down. might be able to duplicate that. And its also like a window, quick jolt, it moves up or down just a hair, till it hits max up or down, then it switches directoin.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Your schematic is 95% right. As mentioned above, pin 87a on each relay needs to be connected to ground. I also agree that the switch LEDs should be wired to the interior lights instead of switched from the ignition. If you change the wiring of the LEDs, then I would suggest wiring the switches off of a power wire that is always on. That way when you forget to put the windows up and it starts raining, you don't need to find your keys before running out to close the windows.

Jagu07

sup guys,
This past Friday i received some part in the mail.
Got the Relays and dual connectors pre-wired will post more pictures of that tomorrow. i also got my trunk latch Switch which is Black!

I did manage to work on this switch and here are a couple of pictures on how i did the wiring.
Notice how this switch has a High Head Push Button i chose to go with This Style which would be better to push down, instead of the Low Head (flush) Push Button.

My Switches that i will be using for the windows wont get here till 5/12/14 coming in from China $4.95/each super cheap compared to $10.00-12.99/each from stores here in the US so for now ill be working on getting the relays and mounting holes ready for the switches.

Jagu07

Sup ppl!

I have been working on this on and off and trust me, I'm tired of not being able to lower my windows and want to get this project done!!

on the good news side. i have received my push button switches earlier then expected!!!!

As you may tell by looking at the pictures i have side connected the wires instead of cutting them clean off the original connector. that way if you ever want to go back to your original window switches you can simply disconnect all the wires and remove all the relays. 1. 2. 3. your back to stock window switches.

also i have some more pictures
enjoy.

I hope to finish this by this coming Saturday.
and will update on the finished look.

eseibel67

Oooohh. I'm not too crazy about those scotch locks. If your Big Gulp splashes some Mountain Dew down there the connections will corrode.

I'm a big fan however of solder & heat shrink tubing connections. It's equal to an uncut wire.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I agree those scotchlok connectors are asking for trouble. Especially on the heavier power wires to the motors.

Jagu07

Hello and happy Friday to you all!!!!!!

so i have some update on this project of mine.

FINALLY i got my connector in, the guy i bought them from was lagging it, in sending them .

i wen to the store and picked me up a nice 10x6 (only $3.49) plastic and made the cut out for my template that will cover the ash tray on my center console.
I made sure i got it super flush that way the lines match up supper nice and clean!!!!!!

note: this is just a mock-up not the finished look.

after i got the nice cut out done i sanded down the edges and made sure there was some grip on the bottom side and a little on the edges. this is beacuse i want the epoxy that i will be putting on to stick it on good and hard will grab on to the plastic and STICK!!!!!! i did this to the edges of the console as well.

i then started to drill the holes and did my best to set them even from each other. im not going to lie, it took me a while to finally decided that's the location i wanted to drill. lol

moving on,

i pre-installed everything in its place where it will go just to get a look and feel of how it will be finished and if it needed to me changed.

well so far im on track and i hope to finished this project by end of Saturday.

eseibel67: you are RIGHT!!!! i didn't think of that. i have some shrink tubing that i will end up installing just to cover all the cut wires and connections.

Gumby

Good GOD man, do ya know how to use the space bar or return button to create a break betwen pics, does my browser window need to be 3 miles long sideways????

Jagu07

do you think it could be your computer mine is perfectly FINE going.
ill make sure to not include any brakes on my next post lets see if we cam make it 5miles!!!

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Wow. I admire the effort. I have since added express up and down to my power windown harnesses. I just built an express power window harness for a guy who wanted express down and up for his 85 crew cab pickup and I added a stock window switch to act as an override to the 4-button master switch so 1 touch can allow ALL windows up or down simultaneously! I had to modify the power circuit and add a 60A circuit breaker-most complicated express power window upgrade I've done to date! I think my schematic gave me at least 2 headaches but it was worth it! Lol

fatalicshock

sell it to me lol

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Lol....I stock a pretty large line of Delphi connectors and terminals so I like to build custom harnesses for people....right now converting a 57 Nomad to all in one express down and up. And for my Silverado short box I've added a 1-piece rear window slider with my express down and up harness. I do a lot of local custom auto wiring so I end up "playing around" with custom touches nobody around here does or takes the time to think of doing.

Jagu07

Its Monday at last!!!

hey everyone,
i have completed my project of installing new window switches \
well not exactly completed 100% i need to measure how much current the LED's are pulling so i can solder a lead resistor. which will help me control the Dimming by the same pull switch that my instruments use!!!!! all controlled by one main switch!!

i did also paint the bottom part of the plastic that the buttons are mounted on, by leaving the top unpainted it will look like a clear cote is on it and it just looks sweet!! lol


As u may notice by the pictures i have extra 2 center buttons
the black one is for my trunk latch and the center chrome one is for my ON/OFF AMP.


Right 2 chrome buttons>> driver side window UP/Down
Left 2 Chrome buttons>>passenger side window UP/Down

i will update my schismatics once i'm done revising them

Jagu07

formula1LE: one button to bring all the windows down and up!! NICE!!! i bet that was a lot of work but not hard at all... i wonder how that looks.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

The install will look stock except for the addition of an extra switch on the drivers door panel. I incorporated a 60A resettable circuit breaker under dash in place of the stock 30A one. This is where all the power for the window relays come from.

On my 86 K10 short box for example I found a vintage power rear window setup NOS from an aftermarket supplier-I plan to give it express down and up-it'll look killer.