Z06 FAN

I need more weight in the rear of my car. How many have relocated the battery to the trunk and what are the pros and cons of this. Car is a weekend cruiser and used for 1/4 mile time to time. The main reason for this is traction that I don't have at all at the moment. Car is 450HP

91 camaro racer

iTrader: (2)

i have, just used the universal kit from summit. pros are weight transfer and cleaning up the engine bay. cant think of any cons really.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

I just did the conversion, to do a nice job is pretty spendy is the only downside I think. Buy a harbor freight hydraulic lug compressor, I found that tool invaluable for this project.

Most of the generic kits don't come with an alternator wire to run to the switch in the back, an alternator wire run that long of a distance needs to be pretty big depending on what kind of alternator you are running. I ordered all of my wire on ebay from a place called Temco Power.

I put an isolator post under my hood so I can still jump/charge my car from the front (or the back now).



While you're at it, you can replace the rear carpet and insulation:


I went with a flaming river push/pull this time, if you go with a regular on/off switch, you will have to do some clearancing behind the tail light:


How the push pull is mounted/works:


I offset my battery to the passenger side enough to fit my helmet to the left of it:



I went with a Jegs box because it is the biggest box that will fit in the rear well with the stock plastic, and it is priced right:


One more:

AlkyIROC

All vehicles with relocated batteries must have a master cutoff switch at the rear. For a street vehicle, this isn't always a good option but there are ways around it.

First of all, specific rules about the master switch.

Must not be made of plastic
Must not be keyed
Must be connected into the positive cable
Must kill the engine when turned off
Off position must be clearly marked
If installed as a push/pull, push must be off

Without permanently mounting the switch on the back of the car like a race car, a street car can do an option like in the above pictures. You have a handle going through the back of the car to use it as a push off. When not at the track, the handle connected to the switch can easily be removed to prevent anyone from pushing it during street use.

The alternator wire running to the back is required so that the alternator is connected to the battery side of the switch. Without it, when you turn the switch off, the alternator will still power up the system and keep the engine running.

91 camaro racer

iTrader: (2)

i am going to assume that by you saying "all vehicles" i am guessing you are talking about for racing purposes. for instance my 06 Cobalt ss has the battery in the rear stock and there is no off switch.

as far as the disconnect switches, which one would you recommend to use?

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

Exactly right, most of the kits I see do not include an alternator wire, which doesn't make sense to me. Also, for a long run, accounting for voltage drop, if you are running a 100 amp alternator, you need to run a good size charge wire. I ran a #4, I think I was between a #4 and #6 when I figured it out, so I just went with the #4. Some of these really cheap kits have a #4 for the primary wire .

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

If you move the battery from the stock location, you are required to have a kill switch.

I work on my car all the time, and adding a kill switch is one of my favorite things, as I can kill power easily when I work on the car.

AlkyIROC

Any vehicle with a relocated battery. I teched a Miata years ago that had the battery mounted in the back. Since it was in the OEM location, a master cutoff switch was not required.

If the vehicle runs 9.99 and quicker, it needs the cutoff switch no matter where the battery is located even if it's in the OEM location.

As for which switch to buy, I recommend the 4 post style. It makes connecting the alternator wire easier. If you know what you're doing, any sort of master kill switch will do that you can buy just about anywhere.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...aster%20switch

redneckjoe

i just moved my battery to the back. i used #2 fine strand wire from a welding supply store. it's never been on a track, just a street car. but i put a keyed disconnect in the glove box. might be slightly anti-theft? and i like being able to turn the power off when needed. i know, not legal for racing. really didnt want to drill a hole outside the car either.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

had a custom battery box made for the spair tire box. and did the rear filler plates.
box is lined with 1/4" rubber sheet. and 1/2" bolts go all the way under the body. and also hold battey down inside box.per rules.and vented to out side of car..keeping things neat & light weight..

now ya see me ..now ya dont.

just like gm wanted



doing a new set in black carbon fiber..
till then. this set up fits like a glove..
pic dont show it well..but the finnish is like black glass...

below is the old set up from the 90's..ya can see the alum plate use. all up graded now.
there is alot of small work to get the license plate lights to fit. and work in the filler plates with the on off switch.
same with the jump pegs.. but in the end. it looks clean.. swaping out a bad tail light takes about 30 min. but hay...
the car looks Fantastic with this type of mod....

thats my old shop... talk about small..car was locked away in it for 9 years. 2003/2009

Z06 FAN

lot of good comments and some great pics to go with them! It got me thinking of my options.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

CAN be removed. without the car looking cut up. (as its cheap plastic plates)
that have been mod. plate lights work 100%..thats what takes the work ya got to trim the plug/sockets down to fit into place with all the other parts...just takes a few min..

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

What I did when I relocated my battery. I can still jumpstart the car from the original battery posts.