askulte

Hey guys,
I've got my block on order from Sallee Chevrolet. I decided to go witht the cubes, and start off with the large-bore bowtie block. It's the new (for 2002, they don't even have it yet in stock) one piece rear mainseal CNC Sportsman block. It comes with splayed nodular caps, everything CNC machined, and all that's left is to finish hone the cylinder bores. It comes with a 4.117 size, so I'll have it bored out to whatever is needed. I guess the next step is to order the heads Any reason not to go with the AFR 210's as-is?

Bobalos

I am curious why you chose the BT Block? why not a Mowtown or maybe even a Donovan?

BW

Bobalos

One more Q, is that a wet or dry sump?

BW

askulte

None of them had a 1 piece rms. That would have forced me to get a new flywheel to replace the billet aluminum street twin ($$) flywheel, and also a new oilpan to replace the Canton road race pan that has all my turbo oil drain fittings welded onto it. I've heard the Motown blocks crack under high boost, and I hadn't even thought to look into Donovan. If they can offer a fully machined and ready to bolt in block for $1695, then it's something to consider.

This is a wet sump setup for now, using the Canton 15-244T baffled/trap doors/windage screen road race pan.

89ProchargedROC

honeslty when i was looking into this andris, the bowtie blocks really dont hold up like they should

look into the dart little m block. i haven't found anyone that isn't happy with it yet

to be truely honest, those sportsman blocks need a lot of prep work to hold the horsepower. I remember guido talked to a few machine shops an even madman and they all said the same

look into the dart little m, even if it has a 2 piece seal you can run an adapter. plus you can order it with 350 mains and not have to run bearing spacers or change cranks if you chose to re use your stock crank

just my opinions

askulte

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't been able to find adapters to convert a 2 piece rms block to a 1 piece (I think the 2 piece is smaller, and just doesn't have room to convert it to a 1 piece). This bowtie had the 350 mains on it, but that doesn't really matter, since I won't be running the factory L98 cast crank. I'd love to go to roller bearings for the cam too, but not this time around.

What kind of prep work was required for the bowtie? I was under the impression it was good to go after a final cylinder hone. I would be deburring everything, and smoothing out the oil pump area and oil drains myself, but I thought the major work was already performed - splayed caps, line bored/honed, cam aligned/bored/honed, etc...

A.

89ProchargedROC

According to a few machine shops they need to be filled with block filler in a lot of places

Guido

Hi Andris.
Jimmy is right. I did talk to some places and everyone said get the Dart little-m. Its tougher. Has more material in the decks, in the bores, etc.

I heard the same thing about the motown blocks not liking boost either. Thats why I shyed away.

I got my dart little-m with steel 4 bolt mains, for $1795. It still requires a final bore/hone, and deck and they like to chase the oil passages too but its not a lot of work really. I am not even having mine filled because they said I didnt have to. People said they have repeatedly broke filled bowtie blocks, and an unfilled dart was stronger.

Good luck though! It would defenitley be better than a stock casting. I think for the money though you should seriously look at the dart stufff.

SUPER CHEVY66

iTrader: (1)

a dart block is really your best choice it's a complete revision of the bow tie block much more material around the weak points to prevent stress cracks.

CrazyHawaiian

Hey Andris hows it going?? Congrats on the new engine man!! I dont really know much about what you guys are talking about so I'll just say Good Job!!!! hahahah. Cant wait to read about how the new TT project engine comes along. As for me, my plans have totally changed ... found a good deal on a LS1 so I may be going that route. Hopefully I can get the intake/exhaust manifolds from liffengers (sp?) turbo setup and fab the rest. Keep us posted on your progress!!

Bobalos

To show my ignorance, what is a "little M"? I just went to the World products site & found the Mowtown blocks & it appears that they now have "race" mowtown blocks. one of the guys here locally is running one (twin carb, LOTS of NOS, setup) & he likes it a lot. He is running mid to high 9's in his 78 (or there abouts) Trans Am. I dont know if you can get around the rear main seal issue, but that block looks pretty darn good. the reason to ask is that one of the guys here locally just blew up his second Bowtie block & is looking for something else. My understanding is that the mowtowns are good for somewhere in the 1000 HP area, but maybe that requires some block fill, dont know.

The aluminum blocks are BIG $ but I guess are pretty darn stout.

BW

Bobalos

$1695 is close, but................. IIRC they are in the $3K neighborhood (which is not even close to the neighborhood I live in, thats all the way across town)

BW

89ProchargedROC

the "motown" blocks are made by World Products and the "little m" is made by Dart.

The reason why a few of us are telling him the Dart is because it is our opinion that the Motown really hasn't proven itself in the drag racing community under extreme hp conditions

You know the "rocket block" that GM sells? it is basically a Tall Deck Small Block Chevy that uses bigger cam bearings and more cubic inches?

DART produces them for GM. Dart even sells their own version under their own name called the "Iron Eagle."

Hope this answered your questions

Bobalos

Thanks, for the education. I thought though, that Dart was made by world products. am I confusing my Mfg's?


In any case, I am guessing with how fast this car is that he is making about 800 HP (with bottle & all) & it seems to be haning in there. He is out every weekend spanking on it & it is hanging in there.

BW

89ProchargedROC

no you are wrong

Dart and Wolrd Products

ARE

different manufactureres

Bobalos

C L,

BW