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Yeah sbc was trunk tank with front intercooler. Long lines. Intercoolers right on turbos so direct warm air goin in
bbc tank and intercooler are both hatch mounted. Also real close to turbo so it gets warm air constantly as turbos are heatsoaked. Also exhaust right under floor there over axle so floor gets hot and tank heatsoaks some on that. It is surprising how much heat gets every where lol
I don't really use the trunk/hatch for anything unless I put the t-tops back there. I could build a tank that sits in the well. Probably wouldn't be a terrible idea to have something with a few gallons of storage.
i assume you mean just driving around? Mine was sorta same way. But it depends on where the turbos are getting air from and if the piping to throttle body gets heat soaked or not, and where the iat sensor is. My water tank will heat up over time mainly from radiant heat from the turbos in the current setup but the last setup would also get warm, esp in summer since the sun beats down on the back hatch area where tank was. And i never used an exchanger for the water
so my cruising around iat seemed to stay higher than ambient but once in throttle, in boost, iat it wouldnt move much with A2W. The air to air would increase steadily but to be fair it was probably undersized more than ideal. Both were safe temps however. Just the warm water was still more effective at cooling.
once you add ice to tank its no contest lol 80 deg iat at 30 psi
correct, currently I see 100-110*F IAT cruising in 90*F weather and it’s a cheap $100 eBay 31x20x3” FMIC. With the A2W I was seeing 140-160*F cruising with the pump on. When in boost the A2W wouldn’t move but off throttle it would creep up eventually and then it would take forever to come down again. Prob due to heat soak. On the A2A I would see a slight bump but that would be back to normal in less than a few min plus with the water meth my 110*F would actually dip in to the 90*F range with the water meth. Then it would creep back up to normal out of boost. This is why I prefer the A2A and it’s dead nuts reliable with basically no added weight or complexity. I was still ahead with the A2A over the A2W as the cruising temp was so much lower it never got as hot as A2W cruising temp. I think the lower cruise temp also helps with throttle tip
in and preventing tip in knock or detonation.
I also ran a dual temp IAT gauge for a while and measured pre and after intercooler temps. The difference between the A2W and A2A was the differential in input and output temp range was higher on the A2A.
If I had to provide any insight I’ve learned with this car is that if it’s a street car I would be go with A2A and water meth that way you get a lower crushing IAT, a bump in octane an water for detonation and timing and you get more benefits than A2W. The reliability and less complexity is better and less to go wrong on the street. I can drive my car for a day and get into boost a lot and maybe use 1/4 gallon of meth fluid. The stock washer tank holds about 3/4 gallon.
if you wanted the drag the car then A2W would make the most sense as you will be using ice to get the most benefits from that system. You do add considerable weight tho as everything is heavy especially if you planning to add a good sized water storage system. You however don’t get the benefit of the methanol but you could do both.
the first recommendation only has 1 pump to fail and little weight. The 2nd has 2 pumps to fail and lots of lines, connections and prob 2-3gallon storage tank.
Yeah no doubt A2A is simpler and hard to beat for long term use or street driving. Id still use one if i could make one big enough for my demands and have a place to mount it lol
Got some more done. Intercooler mounted. Had to make some brackets obviously. Pump mounted. Some hoses done. Most of the wiring done other than the IAT and the exhaust backpressure sensor.
I didn't like the water neck angle with my aftermarket radiator so I bought an ICT straight water neck. Kinda expensive but nobody else made a Gen 4 / LS3 straight one.
What's the current thoughts on running a small K&N filter like I have vs something like the mushroom. Is it HKS ?
Got some more done. Intercooler mounted. Had to make some brackets obviously. Pump mounted. Some hoses done. Most of the wiring done other than the IAT and the exhaust backpressure sensor.
I didn't like the water neck angle with my aftermarket radiator so I bought an ICT straight water neck. Kinda expensive but nobody else made a Gen 4 / LS3 straight one.
What's the current thoughts on running a small K&N filter like I have vs something like the mushroom. Is it HKS ?
I run the CBM Motorsport straight for the LS3 pump. It’s like $55 or something.
CBM-10610
Is that a standard brushed Bosch style pump?
for the filter run the K&N over a HKS mushroom. I’ve run both and both did fine with no difference in boost or response. The HKS was better for clearance but I opted to run a hard 90 into a K&N and have had no issues either.
I run the CBM Motorsport straight for the LS3 pump. It’s like $55 or something.
CBM-10610
Is that a standard brushed Bosch style pump?
for the filter run the K&N over a HKS mushroom. I’ve run both and both did fine with no difference in boost or response. The HKS was better for clearance but I opted to run a hard 90 into a K&N and have had no issues either.
I had already ordered the ICT one for $86 before I saw this post. Came in today.
The pump is a Bosch 0392022002. 5 gpm.
Gotta tig the IAT bung on the elbow, and extend it 8" with some aluminum pipe. Just need to finish up a few vac connectors and fill fluids I think.
What are you guys using for heat shielding or wrapping for your downpipes? I saw some 'downpipe blankets' on amazon. I'm a little close to the harness here.
I had used dei wrap and some basic reflective shield screens for wires with no issues in past
better would be something like dei form a shield. Wrap downpipe with that, its got 1/8” insulation. Alittle better than wrap
or heatshield products heatshield armor. I used that too
I had used dei wrap and some basic reflective shield screens for wires with no issues in past
better would be something like dei form a shield. Wrap downpipe with that, its got 1/8” insulation. Alittle better than wrap
or heatshield products heatshield armor. I used that too
What are you guys using for heat shielding or wrapping for your downpipes? I saw some 'downpipe blankets' on amazon. I'm a little close to the harness here.
I’ve done lava rock knock off wrap and diy ceramic coating. Both work but prefer the creakote air cure ceramic coating. Did mine 5+ years ago and has held up great.
I used one of these dei pipe heat shields on my crossover when it was almost touching my cooling fan motor. Held up and seemed to work good. Its got an air gap between it and the pipe and it’s pretty thick stuff. Its like $60 on summit and would work great for you (reusable too). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...BoC_xEQAvD_BwE
I’ve done lava rock knock off wrap and diy ceramic coating. Both work but prefer the creakote air cure ceramic coating. Did mine 5+ years ago and has held up great.
I used one of these dei pipe heat shields on my crossover when it was almost touching my cooling fan motor. Held up and seemed to work good. Its got an air gap between it and the pipe and it’s pretty thick stuff. Its like $60 on summit and would work great for you (reusable too). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...BoC_xEQAvD_BwE
I'm having trouble with the downpipe. When I mocked it up I didn't have a #8 plug in and I guess I just wasn't thinking. For the pipe to fit between the frame and the block, it occupies the same space that the plug takes up.
I may try a handful of bends to try and get it up over the frame and away from the plug, but I may need to neck down to 3" and back to 3.5.
The problem is, everything I've read says you want your downpipe to be as big as possible anywhere from 12-36" past the turbo.
I'm having trouble with the downpipe. When I mocked it up I didn't have a #8 plug in and I guess I just wasn't thinking. For the pipe to fit between the frame and the block, it occupies the same space that the plug takes up.
I may try a handful of bends to try and get it up over the frame and away from the plug, but I may need to neck down to 3" and back to 3.5.
The problem is, everything I've read says you want your downpipe to be as big as possible anywhere from 12-36" past the turbo.
it’s true, 3.5” out is good but not needed on the 70/70. What you did do was allow future 78/75 swap if you want more out of it in the same turbo frame size. I would not neck down and then back to 3.5”. Terminate 3.5” at the vband around #6 cylinder and just run 3” out and down. That sucks you built it and don’t have clearance for the plug. You can’t even get a 90* boot on it? I have 3” right at the turbo and the 70/70 doesn’t feel choked at all so your already ahead with that bit of 3.5” out the back honestly.
it’s true, 3.5” out is good but not needed on the 70/70. What you did do was allow future 78/75 swap if you want more out of it in the same turbo frame size. I would not neck down and then back to 3.5”. Terminate 3.5” at the vband around #6 cylinder and just run 3” out and down. That sucks you built it and don’t have clearance for the plug. You can’t even get a 90* boot on it? I have 3” right at the turbo and the 70/70 doesn’t feel choked at all so your already ahead with that bit of 3.5” out the back honestly.
What are you running for a "cat back" ? I was going to run 3.5" all the way to the axle, and then split into dual 2.5" mufflers. Would you stick with that plan or just run 3" all the way back?
The 90 degree won't help, due to how wide the turbo manifold is I have to run the pipe sort of in the back close to the firewall, and the frame must get narrow there so it's either into the frame or into the plug.
I have a bunch of 3.5 and 3" stainless on the shelf so I can go either way as far as after the down pipe. I'm kinda bumped this downpipe didn't work though.
I was going to try that after work today. I tried ovaling it yesterday with my shop press and basically destroyed the downpipe. I'm going to make a new one today out of 3.5 and see if I can clearance it but if I can't I will just make one out of three inch
No harm in necking it down imo if you have to. I like the larger area if you can keep it after the transition
My first mistake was making the down pipe in two pieces so it can slip apart in the middle. This is exactly where the dent/oval/crush would need to be. I'm going to tack weld one together later and see if I can bend it in the press enough to clear the plug and frame.
The problem with 3.5" is it's so close to everything, I was trying to avoid a vband in the wheel opening area. Maybe I can do a slip fit there before it turns back under the rocker.
I realize why so many guys just exit out the fender but. This isn't a track only car.
Ok. This is better. Clears the plug frame and firewall.
I had to do like a little offset. I think I can fit another v band and then I'll have a small straight section and then it'll turn towards the passenger fender like the stock exhaust would.
What are you running for a "cat back" ? I was going to run 3.5" all the way to the axle, and then split into dual 2.5" mufflers. Would you stick with that plan or just run 3" all the way back?
The 90 degree won't help, due to how wide the turbo manifold is I have to run the pipe sort of in the back close to the firewall, and the frame must get narrow there so it's either into the frame or into the plug.
I have a bunch of 3.5 and 3" stainless on the shelf so I can go either way as far as after the down pipe. I'm kinda bumped this downpipe didn't work though.
when I ran a 3” full catback with no cat opening the cutout (under the pass seat) made it noticeably faster with both spool and overall power and boost increased. With a 4” mufflex (hawks sinister and a vibrant SS street muffler) it’s very easy on the ears but I basically see no gain with the cutout open. The other thing is I run a 3” 200cell highflow cat that goes into the 4” catback right at the cutout. Now I barely open the cutout as it does nothing but add lots of noise. Funny thing is the 4” mufflex clears the stock rear suspension better than the summit (aka heart throb) exhaust. The mufflex is a really well designed to fit in such a tight space it’s pretty incredible. Having a single exit is fine given it’s a hidden tip so no biggie there. You could make one of the 3.5” and I made one out of 4” but I needed a PHB relocation which sucks *****. Mufflex sinister at hawks is like $550 so it’s not terrible. The turbo cuts down on the noise pretty good but I needed a muffler for cruising and driving to work and cr@p.
when I ran a 3” full catback with no cat opening the cutout (under the pass seat) made it noticeably faster with both spool and overall power and boost increased. With a 4” mufflex (hawks sinister and a vibrant SS street muffler) it’s very easy on the ears but I basically see no gain with the cutout open. The other thing is I run a 3” 200cell highflow cat that goes into the 4” catback right at the cutout. Now I barely open the cutout as it does nothing but add lots of noise. Funny thing is the 4” mufflex clears the stock rear suspension better than the summit (aka heart throb) exhaust. The mufflex is a really well designed to fit in such a tight space it’s pretty incredible. Having a single exit is fine given it’s a hidden tip so no biggie there. You could make one of the 3.5” and I made one out of 4” but I needed a PHB relocation which sucks *****. Mufflex sinister at hawks is like $550 so it’s not terrible. The turbo cuts down on the noise pretty good but I needed a muffler for cruising and driving to work and cr@p.
I have the drop panhard bracket.
So, tell me if this is crazy, but what I've been building is basically 3.5" downpipe following the OEM routing, Where the cats would be, planning a 3.5" race muffler. Then coming out with 3.5" over the axle, then split into dual 2.5" pipes into a pair of SLP mufflers. (from the 4th gen kit).
I have all the 3.5" and the SLP mufflers, race muffler, etc. I have a ton of 3" too.
I'm not a huge fan of the single exhaust out the back, I think the lack of symmetry bothers me. Not going to run cutouts. I'm hoping overall it's not too loud.
Now I would have just bought the whole system from SLP rather than just the mufflers, but it's only available in 3", and everyone told me 3" exhaust would choke the turbo.
I'm trying to get the car finished enough up to the race muffler so I can take it off the 2 post lift and move it onto the 4 post, do an alignment, and then finish up the exhaust with the suspension at ride height.
So, tell me if this is crazy, but what I've been building is basically 3.5" downpipe following the OEM routing, Where the cats would be, planning a 3.5" race muffler. Then coming out with 3.5" over the axle, then split into dual 2.5" pipes into a pair of SLP mufflers. (from the 4th gen kit).
I have all the 3.5" and the SLP mufflers, race muffler, etc. I have a ton of 3" too.
I'm not a huge fan of the single exhaust out the back, I think the lack of symmetry bothers me. Not going to run cutouts. I'm hoping overall it's not too loud.
Now I would have just bought the whole system from SLP rather than just the mufflers, but it's only available in 3", and everyone told me 3" exhaust would choke the turbo.
I'm trying to get the car finished enough up to the race muffler so I can take it off the 2 post lift and move it onto the 4 post, do an alignment, and then finish up the exhaust with the suspension at ride height.
I assume with the drop PHB at the frame your also relocating at the rear end mount by the wheel? Your likely going to have to move up a bit in rear spring rate to counter the lower roll center (aka the back end is going to feel like pop)
I don’t think you’re crazy. I just checked the area of a 2.5” tailpipe and two of them is slightly more than the 3.5” so it doesn’t hinder flow. The transition from the 3.5 to dual 2.5 will be important but on paper should work fine. 4” is overkill mostly on a turbo application especially on one as small as ours and not looking for max hp. The price difference for me was basically the same so I just went with the 4”.
3” would choke going all the way out the back it would still run fine and make gobs of power but you are losing some with that long of a restriction. If you did 3” you wouldn’t know the car wasn’t running good unless you had a cutout and could do back to back tests and then you would be like… oh it’s def picked up 25-50hp and 2psi over with the cutout open. 3” is easy to package but if you got the material and ability to run the 3.5 I would.
I assume with the drop PHB at the frame your also relocating at the rear end mount by the wheel? Your likely going to have to move up a bit in rear spring rate to counter the lower roll center (aka the back end is going to feel like pop)
I don’t think you’re crazy. I just checked the area of a 2.5” tailpipe and two of them is slightly more than the 3.5” so it doesn’t hinder flow. The transition from the 3.5 to dual 2.5 will be important but on paper should work fine. 4” is overkill mostly on a turbo application especially on one as small as ours and not looking for max hp. The price difference for me was basically the same so I just went with the 4”.
3” would choke going all the way out the back it would still run fine and make gobs of power but you are losing some with that long of a restriction. If you did 3” you wouldn’t know the car wasn’t running good unless you had a cutout and could do back to back tests and then you would be like… oh it’s def picked up 25-50hp and 2psi over with the cutout open. 3” is easy to package but if you got the material and ability to run the 3.5 I would.
This is the bracket I'm talking about, I think I installed this around 2011. I think at the time I was going to do a mufflex 4-in exhaust but decided against it.
I'm not sure yet how exactly I want to do the merge into the dual 2 and 1/2-in pipes, I've seen a lot of 4th gen cars do the merge kind of by the drive shaft and then they go over the axle with dual pipes, and then of course there's the example I showed in the previous post.
Ok. I can live with this. Now I just need to do the "downpipe back" exhaust.
I used a slip fit in the middle of the downpipe so I can separate it if I need to remove it. I'll use a band clamp. My buddy said 'good luck taking that back apart once it heat cycles'.
I wish I had a factory catalytic converter support bracket that goes to the transmission. I can fabricate something but it would have saved me a bunch of time. None appear to be on ebay either.
Part of me is realizing if I just buy a 3.5 or 4" catback I'll save myself about 8 hours of work fabricating the back half of the exhaust. But I also feel like a traditional thirdgen style exhaust is louder than splitting into two 2.5" mufflers.
These moog springs seem to sit pretty high.. I've got 29.5" from the ground to the fender lip. Visually it just looks high. They are Moog 5608 which is supposed to be correct for fbody with 15" wheels.
I learned the hard way that you cannot use LS1 injectors on an LS2 intake/rails without spacers. I assumed since it "tightened all the way down" it would be fine. Apparently the injector sits way too high into the rail, beyond the sealing surface. All eight sprayed a ton of fuel onto the top of the engine.
Going to try some .250" spacers tonight. Fun times.
Didn't try to start it. Checking for leaks. Primed oil system the other night, found a bad AN fitting on my turbo train. Primed fuel. This happened. Also waiting on new exhaust parts to show up. I bought the speed engineering dual exhaust (dual 3"). Going to merge that into the downpipe.
Whenever someone suggests you do a "budget LS turbo build", slap them.
Ah lol the old budget ls. Everything ends up being more than you think or what the internet says
Buying the engine is the cheapest part.
I suppose there are some guys that legit take a junkyard 5.3, as is, truck pan and all, and just slam it in with a $200 ebay turbo and some welding but. That's definitely not what I did..
None of these words belong in the same sentence. I ended up going crazy on my build but it took me 5 years to get it the way I wanted. Only cost me $40k and my soul
While running? I'm assuming you were just pressure testing it? If not dial that way back to 58.
No! Engine off. Enabled the fuel pump in the ECU using the test I/O modes. (megasquirt).
What's the deal with 58psi and stock LS1's ? I've always used 43.5psi as my 100kpa base and added 1psi per lb of boost from there. Thought process is that most fuel pumps start losing significant volume as fuel pressure increases. At 14lb boost that would give a theoretical 57.5psi.
At 43.5psi it flows 124 gallons per hour. (470lph). At 60psi 110 gallons per hour and at 70psi about 105 gph. The current also substantially increases. (I have mine on 8awg with a 30 amp relay).
After 70psi you start to really lose volume.
So my decapped 0280158205 Bosch injectors flow 72lb/hour at 43.5psi and I think like 82 or something when I checked them at 58psi.
So let's pretend our horsepower target is 800hp. Ignoring injector duty cycle and just looking at fuel load, that is 520lbs/hour of fuel. 93 octane averages 6lbs per gallon, so 86.6 gallons per hour are required, which theoretically puts a fuel pressure ceiling of between 90-95psi.
What does all of this mean? Probably nothing unless I was trying to run 30lb of boost and still make 800hp, negating the need for an upper limit of 90psi, however, the question really is this:
1) IS it better to have less current draw for the same volume of fuel or higher pressure?
and
2) Does higher pressure on decapped/larger injectors (single nozzle) have an impact vs injectors with a 4 or 5 pin hole cap?
and
3) Does spray pattern matter on a batch fire LS?
This is probably a good opportunity for @Orr89RocZ to say I'm over thinking this stuff again lol.
58 was suppose to be to combat vapor lock issues in dead headed fuel rails. Regulator bypass was in the tank or at the fuel filter. Rails got hot the higher pressure was suppose to help
some say spray patterns may be improved at higher pressures. But ive seen liquid streams puddling up in the runner still make power lol. I doubt it means much between 40-90 on most injectors
idk about batch fire ls stuff or decapped injectors and what kind of spray characteristics they have.
But with electric fuel pumps yes you do need to watch fuel pressure vs fuel flow. Id always lean toward running just enough pressure to get the job done. And it would make sense to keep current draw lower. But as long as you have proper wiring and relays etc, and enough juice in the alternator to operate all your other electrical items you are good to go.
58 was suppose to be to combat vapor lock issues in dead headed fuel rails. Regulator bypass was in the tank or at the fuel filter. Rails got hot the higher pressure was suppose to help
some say spray patterns may be improved at higher pressures. But ive seen liquid streams puddling up in the runner still make power lol. I doubt it means much between 40-90 on most injectors
idk about batch fire ls stuff or decapped injectors and what kind of spray characteristics they have.
But with electric fuel pumps yes you do need to watch fuel pressure vs fuel flow. Id always lean toward running just enough pressure to get the job done. And it would make sense to keep current draw lower. But as long as you have proper wiring and relays etc, and enough juice in the alternator to operate all your other electrical items you are good to go.
Yeah it seems to me 43.5 is a good pressure at 100kpa and then let it rise with boost from there. I think with batch fire, most of the time you are spraying on a closed intake valve anyway so I can't imagine the spray pattern is that meaningful.
Got the speed engineering 3" dual exhaust. Only using the back half of course. It actually fits pretty good. Tucks up nice. I'm going to run some 3" stainless turn downs which should also be hidden.
I didn't use the rear supports because they hang down too low, and are meant for the quad tips to exit under the bumper. Instead I'll make some isolated mounts on the back of the frame.
Once my merge pipe shows up tomorrow I can connect the 3.5" single to the dual 3".
Got the speed engineering 3" dual exhaust. Only using the back half of course. It actually fits pretty good. Tucks up nice. I'm going to run some 3" stainless turn downs which should also be hidden.
I didn't use the rear supports because they hang down too low, and are meant for the quad tips to exit under the bumper. Instead I'll make some isolated mounts on the back of the frame.
Once my merge pipe shows up tomorrow I can connect the 3.5" single to the dual 3".
Nicely done. Curious to see how it turns out. As far as rear muffler mounts, I remember that I did the same thing. I installed some nutserts into the frame and hung new hangers.
Nicely done. Curious to see how it turns out. As far as rear muffler mounts, I remember that I did the same thing. I installed some nutserts into the frame and hung new hangers.
That's what I was thinking, maybe just weld a few flange nuts to the frame so I can mount a hanger. I have some of these walker hangers in the shop, I figure a 3/8 bolt to the frame and then weld the bar to the muffler should do the trick.
what backpressure kit are you using? does this connect to a gauge in the car?
I'm using a 100psi transducer. The same one I'm using for my fuel pressure, and pretty much I think the same one everyone sells in their kit. Connected to a few feet of copper tube coiled up . It is configured to a spare AD input in my megasquirt.
I figure it makes sense to log exhaust back pressure along with boost so I can get an idea of how crappy my manifolds are that I designed.
Exhaust coming along. I haven't tacked it yet but everything fits together.
I couldn't get the engine to idle longer than 3 seconds. Tried a couple different IAC valves at it, no change. I tried opening up the IAC port and got it running about 4 seconds. Drilled a .125" hole in the blade made no difference. Changed TPS sensors with no change. Fuel and spark were good to go. Turned the idle screw a bunch that just made the engine hit about 1400 rpm then die.
After my frustration built up to the max I ended up buying an icon 102 TB and had it overnight shipped to Canada and bolted it on and the engine fired right up and held a strong idle. Only had to make a small idle screw adjustment.
After looking into it a bit deeper in certain the IAC port wasn't machined properly and the TB opening wasn't actually round
Wanted to comment on this since I have run the engine for a while.
The short answer is, I had no issues. Idles around 700 rpm at 58kpa, 18 degrees advance with the screw all the way out. (blades slammed shut). Iac was like 20 steps.
Checked timing with a light today, so apparently the #1 tooth is exactly 78 degrees BTDC.
Starts right up and idles good. I've got some gremlins to resolve but it's going in the right direction.
Looks and sounds good! If you wanted to not weld the slip fit connection... permatex sells and exhaust sealant like a white paste that hardens and its good for like 2,000*F. I've used it on a few applications that I still wanted it to seal and to do deal with high cat heat.
Looks and sounds good! If you wanted to not weld the slip fit connection... permatex sells and exhaust sealant like a white paste that hardens and its good for like 2,000*F. I've used it on a few applications that I still wanted it to seal and to do deal with high cat heat.
Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the turbo!
I ended up welding it yesterday. Which was a nightmare as I had to do it out of position directly over my head with the mig wand in between the pipe and the frame.
Tightened up some leaky vbands in the crossover. I've got a few things I need to work on this week. My coolant temp sensor isn't calibrated properly. For some reason I thought a single 30AMP relay/fuse combo would be fine for both radiator fans. And I wired my wideband into the intercooler pump relay not the fuel pump relay, which was a mistake since sometimes I pull the intercooler pump relay while idling in the shop tuning.
What's your timing table look like? I found this wants to idle around 18 degrees at 700rpm. Less timing and it stalls. More and it can't control the idle down. I think you said you are running this same 8719 cam in your C3 ?
Going to likely be a while before I road test it. Still deep in winter here in New Hampshire.
I ended up welding it yesterday. Which was a nightmare as I had to do it out of position directly over my head with the mig wand in between the pipe and the frame.
Tightened up some leaky vbands in the crossover. I've got a few things I need to work on this week. My coolant temp sensor isn't calibrated properly. For some reason I thought a single 30AMP relay/fuse combo would be fine for both radiator fans. And I wired my wideband into the intercooler pump relay not the fuel pump relay, which was a mistake since sometimes I pull the intercooler pump relay while idling in the shop tuning.
What's your timing table look like? I found this wants to idle around 18 degrees at 700rpm. Less timing and it stalls. More and it can't control the idle down. I think you said you are running this same 8719 cam in your C3 ?
Going to likely be a while before I road test it. Still deep in winter here in New Hampshire.
Are you able to remove now that its welded? Welding upside down and above your head is always a fun time with a MIG.
Lol a 30amp relay and fuse aint gona work. I really like the flexalite variable speed controllers they are soft start and variable speed with a sold state relay/controller with multiple ways to activate them (ground or 12v triggers). The have a probe and thread in sensor type. They are good for 60amps continuous I believe as well single or dual fans.
I believe I'm right around 18* at idle of 700-750rpm in the tune. I want to say it fluctuates a good bit. Yes, I have the 8719 (high lift and not the new 8719R version). My custom 218/228 cam in my other 5.3 turbo in the firebird is in the 18-21* range at idle. I can check the tune when I'm home and have access to the laptop. 18-21* is pretty standard for LS motors with aftermarket cams. Feeling you on the winter... 17*F today in CT and have gotten 10-12* of snow since last tuesday.
Are you able to remove now that its welded? Welding upside down and above your head is always a fun time with a MIG.
Lol a 30amp relay and fuse aint gona work. I really like the flexalite variable speed controllers they are soft start and variable speed with a sold state relay/controller with multiple ways to activate them (ground or 12v triggers). The have a probe and thread in sensor type. They are good for 60amps continuous I believe as well single or dual fans.
I believe I'm right around 18* at idle of 700-750rpm in the tune. I want to say it fluctuates a good bit. Yes, I have the 8719 (high lift and not the new 8719R version). My custom 218/228 cam in my other 5.3 turbo in the firebird is in the 18-21* range at idle. I can check the tune when I'm home and have access to the laptop. 18-21* is pretty standard for LS motors with aftermarket cams. Feeling you on the winter... 17*F today in CT and have gotten 10-12* of snow since last tuesday.
Not a chance, the downpipe is now a permanent fixture in the engine bay. I would need to, at a minimum, remove the turbo and the turbo header to get it out. With 1/2" of clearance in every direction, and it made out of a bunch of pie cuts and bends, it's there permanently.
Flexalite eh? Is that an amazon thing? I only have 1 ground output for my fan control. I'm out of I/O. I had to wire my intercooler relay (pump + fans) to the same output as my fuel pump relay. I would have preferred enabling the intercooler fan based on coolant temp or something.
I'm hoping to get the car to the point where I can move it in and out of the shop by next week. I need to move it over to the 4 post lift so I can do an alignment, and I need to drag the 4th gen Formula into the bay with the 2 post lift so I can deal with the blown head gasket. Good thing we have another two months of winter.
01-20-2024, 11:56 AM
