When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I searched for this, but I only found a few threads from years ago and in each of the threads guys were modifying the hot side and running the downpipe out the fender. Cool track car stuff, but didn't answer my questions.
If I stick my 5.3 LS in a thirdgen (using a spohn K-member):
1) Will the hooker single turbo manifold and a T76 fit or smash into the inner fender or hood?
2) Will the crossover work or crash into something?
3) Can I fit a 3" downpipe between #8 and the frame/firewall to tie into my exhaust?
That's how I was hoping to run my exhaust too. Doesn't look like I'll have enough room to run a 3" downpipe comfortably behind #8, so I'll have to figure out something different.
As far as the K member, I don't see where there will be much issue. I just mocked this up today and have a Spohn K member and 6.2. The manifold itself clears everything pretty well. Not so sure on the crossover because I'm using one I had fabbed up, although it looks like its a LITTLE close to the rear of the A arm mount, but I don't think it'll be a problem.
That's how I was hoping to run my exhaust too. Doesn't look like I'll have enough room to run a 3" downpipe comfortably behind #8, so I'll have to figure out something different.
As far as the K member, I don't see where there will be much issue. I just mocked this up today and have a Spohn K member and 6.2. The manifold itself clears everything pretty well. Not so sure on the crossover because I'm using one I had fabbed up, although it looks like its a LITTLE close to the rear of the A arm mount, but I don't think it'll be a problem.
I wonder if the chinese ebay turbo LS manifold gives any more room in that area. The only thing I kinda like about the chinese manifold is it has the flange right on it and I think it's low enough to clear the hood.
So, I searched for this, but I only found a few threads from years ago and in each of the threads guys were modifying the hot side and running the downpipe out the fender. Cool track car stuff, but didn't answer my questions.
If I stick my 5.3 LS in a thirdgen (using a spohn K-member):
1) Will the hooker single turbo manifold and a T76 fit or smash into the inner fender or hood?
2) Will the crossover work or crash into something?
3) Can I fit a 3" downpipe between #8 and the frame/firewall to tie into my exhaust?
I'm running that system on my 91 Z28 and you'll never get a downpipe to go between #8 and firewall. The crossover pipe is nice but it does hang a bit low and should be cut and shortened for a tighter fit. I haven't shortened mine yet but I'm gonna take about 1.5" off, the crossover comes with extra flanges. I've got a T6 vs racing 80mm turbo front mounted
I'm running that system on my 91 Z28 and you'll never get a downpipe to go between #8 and firewall. The crossover pipe is nice but it does hang a bit low and should be cut and shortened for a tighter fit. I haven't shortened mine yet but I'm gonna take about 1.5" off, the crossover comes with extra flanges. I've got a T6 vs racing 80mm turbo front mounted
I definitely want to run the down pipe either past #8 or maybe along the block if the steering isn't in the way.
Is this a clearance issue with all of the LS manifolds or ? Looking at the above photos, the LS seems a little wider than the SBC huh?
Engine was probably moved forward just enough. I've got adapter plates on mine and with them set for stock sbc config it's too close. I moved mine to the 1.75" forward position and there's still not enough room. Or maybe he's running a smaller turbo that uses a 3" DP??
Engine was probably moved forward just enough. I've got adapter plates on mine and with them set for stock sbc config it's too close. I moved mine to the 1.75" forward position and there's still not enough room. Or maybe he's running a smaller turbo that uses a 3" DP??
I'd say he's definately using a 3" downpipe. Not sure about moving the engine forward. Don't see any mention of it in his build thread. He hasn't been active in a few years.
Moving the engine forward creates other issues, such as the transmission mount, driveshaft length.
I'd say he's definately using a 3" downpipe. Not sure about moving the engine forward. Don't see any mention of it in his build thread. He hasn't been active in a few years.
Moving the engine forward creates other issues, such as the transmission mount, driveshaft length.
He's probably using a smaller turbo then. I'm going for 4 digit power numbers and built my entire drive train to handle it all.
The CX racing gen 1 kit fits and allows a 3" DP under the header... much cleaner than the newest version of the kit. Not sure if You can still get them. With a billet VS Next Gen 70/70 my 5.3 is a rocket below 6500. I'm hitting low 12s @ 130mph with my speedhut GPS speedo in 1/4 mile track setting on the street with drag radials being careful on lowish boost to keep it from spinning out.
I like the hooker setup but like others have said the fitment at the back doesn't leave any room for a decent down pipe. I also wasn't sure if it would clear my Moly Kmember on the pass side as it looks like it sticks down a bit which would kit the spring perch or the Engine mount bracket.
I like the hooker setup but like others have said the fitment at the back doesn't leave any room for a decent down pipe. I also wasn't sure if it would clear my Moly Kmember on the pass side as it looks like it sticks down a bit which would kit the spring perch or the Engine mount bracket.
Fitment is really good on both sides, yes the pass side hangs down a slight bit but not enough to interfere with motor mounts as it's nice and tight to the engine. You could get creative and snake a DP around the driver side but that starts getting expensive when we're talking about stainless. I definitely tried to come up with a different solution on my 91 z28 but in the end I just went 4" out the pass fender.
Fitment is really good on both sides, yes the pass side hangs down a slight bit but not enough to interfere with motor mounts as it's nice and tight to the engine. You could get creative and snake a DP around the driver side but that starts getting expensive when we're talking about stainless. I definitely tried to come up with a different solution on my 91 z28 but in the end I just went 4" out the pass fender.
The Race Craft Kmembers are a bit different in the engine mount area... See pic where I see the issue being. The motor mounts are massive and stick way to far up and down. https://www.racecraft.com/8292-camar...ch-p-1599.html
EDIT: not letting me attach or paste photos... wth.
The Race Craft Kmembers are a bit different in the engine mount area... See pic where I see the issue being. The motor mounts are massive and stick way to far up and down. https://www.racecraft.com/8292-camar...ch-p-1599.html
EDIT: not letting me attach or paste photos... wth.
Ah I see I see. Yea that could be an issue for sure. I wonder why they are so big to begin with?? I've got the BMR k member with integrated mounts and they are fairly small in size. Would solid mounts work better for something like that??
Ah I see I see. Yea that could be an issue for sure. I wonder why they are so big to begin with?? I've got the BMR k member with integrated mounts and they are fairly small in size. Would solid mounts work better for something like that??
Yea they stick out like a SOB. I do run solid mounts currently but its more of that dang bracket that gets in the way. You don't even see the spring perch in that pic which sticks out and up against the sub frame and protrudes into the engine bay a bit. My DP was rubbing on it on the CX kit just barely and nothing a smidge of grinding can't fix.
Yea they stick out like a SOB. I do run solid mounts currently but its more of that dang bracket that gets in the way. You don't even see the spring perch in that pic which sticks out and up against the sub frame and protrudes into the engine bay a bit. My DP was rubbing on it on the CX kit just barely and nothing a smidge of grinding can't fix.
Hahaha yea a grinder is your best friend when it comes to making things fit
Here is the block I'm going with. A 2009 LC9. This is an aluminum block with Siamese cylinders. 10.9:1 compression, 210cc heads (243 casting) gen 4 block. Knock sensor on side of block.
My plans are :
1) AFM delete with LS7 lifters, valley cover, etc
2) Summit "stage 2" turbo cam
3) Terminator X controller.
3) Maybe VS7875 Turbo. Torn between that, T76 and GT45 but I hear 7875 spools fast on a 5.3
I'm gonna try the off shore cast manifolds first. I like the turbo placement.
Here is the block I'm going with. A 2009 LC9. This is an aluminum block with Siamese cylinders. 10.9:1 compression, 210cc heads (243 casting) gen 4 block. Knock sensor on side of block.
My plans are :
1) AFM delete with LS7 lifters, valley cover, etc
2) Summit "stage 2" turbo cam
3) Terminator X controller.
3) Maybe VS7875 Turbo. Torn between that, T76 and GT45 but I hear 7875 spools fast on a 5.3
I'm gonna try the off shore cast manifolds first. I like the turbo placement.
As far as I'm concerned the GT45 is off the deck since the 78/75 came out. The new Next Gen turbos from VS are really good for the price. A cast 78/75 will make 700 all day for $260-300 on eba or $399 from VS (not sure about pricing now). I would do at minimum a .96AR but a 1.25 would give you more room on the exhaust side for a little more power. I did some back pressure testing with a gen 1 billet 78/75 vs a next gen billet 70/70 and they were about the same and both were .96AR with 3" Vbands. The newer high efficiency exhaust blades do really help squeeze a bit more out without hurting spool. If your talking about the cast iron log manifolds... good luck! The turbo will be way high to fit under the hood. Hooker version puts the Vband out down low and gives you more mounting options for a lower profile setup.
As far as I'm concerned the GT45 is off the deck since the 78/75 came out. The new Next Gen turbos from VS are really good for the price. A cast 78/75 will make 700 all day for $260-300 on eba or $399 from VS (not sure about pricing now). I would do at minimum a .96AR but a 1.25 would give you more room on the exhaust side for a little more power. I did some back pressure testing with a gen 1 billet 78/75 vs a next gen billet 70/70 and they were about the same and both were .96AR with 3" Vbands. The newer high efficiency exhaust blades do really help squeeze a bit more out without hurting spool. If your talking about the cast iron log manifolds... good luck! The turbo will be way high to fit under the hood. Hooker version puts the Vband out down low and gives you more mounting options for a lower profile setup.
I've heard the 7875 is pretty fantastic on 5.3's.
The cast manifolds do mount the turbo high, but I've seen a lot of videos of them being used in Gbodies and such. I think worst case scenario they can be cut and welded, not to mention it would be nice to add a WG flange.
The cast manifolds do mount the turbo high, but I've seen a lot of videos of them being used in Gbodies and such. I think worst case scenario they can be cut and welded, not to mention it would be nice to add a WG flange.
It is pretty good, exhaust side is still small and will limit RPM. On a 6.0 its even worse but will spool faster. On my cammed and ported 5.3 I was seeing boost start around 3000-3400k with a 2400 stall and I would rev out to 6500. My pre turbo back pressure was around 2.5:1 at 13-16psi boost. With the 70/70 next gen I was seeing boost 500rpms earlier and it hit like a shot of NO2 (harder and faster) and could see boost at 1/4-1/3 throttle. On the billet 78/75 gen 1 .96AR I would need to be at 1/2 throttle or slightly more. The 70/70 still lets me rev out to 6500 and has roughly the same back pressure even with the smaller exhaust wheel. I picked up lots of usable power for the street which is what I wanted 3000-5k range. Everyone on LS1tech thought I was nuts except 1 guy who said build it for its purpose. Mine is street and wanted something more responsive and fun below 5k but still reved out to 6500. If you are building a 7-7500k 5.3 with a 3800 stall don't go with a 70/70 lol. If you wanted to spin a 5.3 to 7000+ you would need at minimum a next gen 78/75 with the 1.25AR and 4" vband discharge. At that point price wise you might be better off with a borg with a larger exhaust wheel and cast impeller.
Well on my firebird with solid motor mounts (shorter SBC and not 3rd gen specific Moroso mounts) and a NNBS (TBSS intake) Mine just kisses the hood at one point (underside brace) but its fully in the hood insulation at the MAP sensor and front of the intake. I don't see the turbo fitting at all looking at placement of the T4 flange above the valve cover on anything but a small frame turbo. If you cut down that neck on the t4 flange (seems high for no reason on the cheap cast version on ebay/amazon) you would make it fit a bunch lower as long as you don't have valve cover/coil/fill neck interference. Ideal placement of the WG doesn't give you alot of options maybe in the crossover (not ideal). In the stock location truck accessory bracket with a large case alternator I couldn't close the hood, switching to a small case just barely allows it to close and it looks like the turbo is in line with that.
It is pretty good, exhaust side is still small and will limit RPM. On a 6.0 its even worse but will spool faster. On my cammed and ported 5.3 I was seeing boost start around 3000-3400k with a 2400 stall and I would rev out to 6500. My pre turbo back pressure was around 2.5:1 at 13-16psi boost. With the 70/70 next gen I was seeing boost 500rpms earlier and it hit like a shot of NO2 (harder and faster) and could see boost at 1/4-1/3 throttle. On the billet 78/75 gen 1 .96AR I would need to be at 1/2 throttle or slightly more. The 70/70 still lets me rev out to 6500 and has roughly the same back pressure even with the smaller exhaust wheel. I picked up lots of usable power for the street which is what I wanted 3000-5k range. Everyone on LS1tech thought I was nuts except 1 guy who said build it for its purpose. Mine is street and wanted something more responsive and fun below 5k but still reved out to 6500. If you are building a 7-7500k 5.3 with a 3800 stall don't go with a 70/70 lol. If you wanted to spin a 5.3 to 7000+ you would need at minimum a next gen 78/75 with the 1.25AR and 4" vband discharge. At that point price wise you might be better off with a borg with a larger exhaust wheel and cast impeller.
Well on my firebird with solid motor mounts (shorter SBC and not 3rd gen specific Moroso mounts) and a NNBS (TBSS intake) Mine just kisses the hood at one point (underside brace) but its fully in the hood insulation at the MAP sensor and front of the intake. I don't see the turbo fitting at all looking at placement of the T4 flange above the valve cover on anything but a small frame turbo. If you cut down that neck on the t4 flange (seems high for no reason on the cheap cast version on ebay/amazon) you would make it fit a bunch lower as long as you don't have valve cover/coil/fill neck interference. Ideal placement of the WG doesn't give you alot of options maybe in the crossover (not ideal). In the stock location truck accessory bracket with a large case alternator I couldn't close the hood, switching to a small case just barely allows it to close and it looks like the turbo is in line with that.
I think I was reading one of your posts from a few years ago, I believe you went from a fiberglass cowl hood to a factory hood ? I have the 2 or 3" whatever it is harwood cowl. Won't help with turbo clearance but should keep the truck intake, and maybe even the engine cover clear.
I think I'll cut the manifold down. When I had a turbo SBC setup in the car I fit a T76 no problem between the strut tower and the engine.
The Hooker setup is interesting, but I've seen the big U bend people have to fabricate to get to a turbo. No room for the turbo between the accessories and the radiator, so they end up putting it way off to the side. I don't know, I feel like having a heavy turbo hanging off a section of pipe way over there is a bad idea. Lots of leverage on the Vband. Also it seems waste gate placement with the hooker setup is difficult - everyone appears to dump in the engine bay rather than merging into the downpipe.
On the trucks it seems everyone runs the waste gate in the crossover. I feel weird about that.
I think I was reading one of your posts from a few years ago, I believe you went from a fiberglass cowl hood to a factory hood ? I have the 2 or 3" whatever it is harwood cowl. Won't help with turbo clearance but should keep the truck intake, and maybe even the engine cover clear.
I think I'll cut the manifold down. When I had a turbo SBC setup in the car I fit a T76 no problem between the strut tower and the engine.
The Hooker setup is interesting, but I've seen the big U bend people have to fabricate to get to a turbo. No room for the turbo between the accessories and the radiator, so they end up putting it way off to the side. I don't know, I feel like having a heavy turbo hanging off a section of pipe way over there is a bad idea. Lots of leverage on the Vband. Also it seems waste gate placement with the hooker setup is difficult - everyone appears to dump in the engine bay rather than merging into the downpipe.
On the trucks it seems everyone runs the waste gate in the crossover. I feel weird about that.
-- Joe
Ah yes, correct. I went from a 3" fiberglass bolt on to a factory powerbulge formula hood for street driving. If you have any type of cowl the truck intake and engine cover will clear. Idk why I assumed you were running a factory hood.
Agreed on turbo piping with the hookers but they are divided up to the vband which helps with spool and keeping velocity up. The cheap manifolds are just logs but the summit SS one is real nice and divided I believe. I wouldn't worry too much with the weight of the turbo... these small frame guys are pretty light especially compared to the Gt45.You can also fab a quick brace if you want to cover your bases. I used some 1/8x1" steel flat stock from home depot and used 2 bolts from the compressor cover and bolted it to the battery hold down (battery in the trunk). It doesnt take alot to support these small turbos. When I remove my vbands the turbo is 90% supported of its weight with the simple bracket. On my CX racing hot side the turbo is hung wayyyyy out into the pass battery tray area, simple bracket and no issues in almost 5 years even on the china welds. I do run solid motor mounts so don't brace to the frame/car unless your running solid mounts.
Agree on the atmospheric dump. I ran an open dump bc thats now mine came and I hated it. Ruined my fun getting into boost to hear that cr@p come out. I recirculated into the down pipe and couldnt be happier... all the spool noises and none of the annoyances. If you put the WG in the crossover at the back of the engine you could easily connect to the DP. Bleeding pre turbo exhaust pressure is the goal, it will work but might not be the most efficient. Priority WG placement matters if you looking for really good boost control or trying to run really low boost pressures. I wouldn't sweat it... I was seeing 30-40psi pre turbo, poke a hole in the crossover it's going to bleed pressure easy. I prefer recirculated dumps and full exhausts but it sure is easy to dump out the fender and dump the WG right in the bay and would be easier to run a BIG DP for max power. Trying to snake anything even 3" or bigger is not fun on the 3rd gens.
Ah yes, correct. I went from a 3" fiberglass bolt on to a factory powerbulge formula hood for street driving. If you have any type of cowl the truck intake and engine cover will clear. Idk why I assumed you were running a factory hood.
Agreed on turbo piping with the hookers but they are divided up to the vband which helps with spool and keeping velocity up. The cheap manifolds are just logs but the summit SS one is real nice and divided I believe. I wouldn't worry too much with the weight of the turbo... these small frame guys are pretty light especially compared to the Gt45.You can also fab a quick brace if you want to cover your bases. I used some 1/8x1" steel flat stock from home depot and used 2 bolts from the compressor cover and bolted it to the battery hold down (battery in the trunk). It doesnt take alot to support these small turbos. When I remove my vbands the turbo is 90% supported of its weight with the simple bracket. On my CX racing hot side the turbo is hung wayyyyy out into the pass battery tray area, simple bracket and no issues in almost 5 years even on the china welds. I do run solid motor mounts so don't brace to the frame/car unless your running solid mounts.
Agree on the atmospheric dump. I ran an open dump bc thats now mine came and I hated it. Ruined my fun getting into boost to hear that cr@p come out. I recirculated into the down pipe and couldnt be happier... all the spool noises and none of the annoyances. If you put the WG in the crossover at the back of the engine you could easily connect to the DP. Bleeding pre turbo exhaust pressure is the goal, it will work but might not be the most efficient. Priority WG placement matters if you looking for really good boost control or trying to run really low boost pressures. I wouldn't sweat it... I was seeing 30-40psi pre turbo, poke a hole in the crossover it's going to bleed pressure easy. I prefer recirculated dumps and full exhausts but it sure is easy to dump out the fender and dump the WG right in the bay and would be easier to run a BIG DP for max power. Trying to snake anything even 3" or bigger is not fun on the 3rd gens.
So which manifolds did you go with? Do you have photos ?
So which manifolds did you go with? Do you have photos ?
Which 5.3 did you use ?
No manifolds, I did CX racing gen 1 hotside that I made a new 2.25” crossover and recirculated the down pipe (very tight).
motor is 1999 gen 1 LM7 with 150k miles when I got it. Short block is stock (didn’t even gap the rings) and did cloyes stock timing set, custom cam and GM “HV” oil pump. Top end are stock rebuilt eBay 862 heads (no notch) that I hand ported lightly, Howard .600 lift beehives and moly 7.350 pushrods with morel 5315 lifters. OTB NNBS $100 new intake, warr 92mm TB and 72lb Bosch injectors. Cam is a blowe cam 218/228 .550 114.5+5.5 that was setup for my centri I had on it the first 2 years.
it has seen 17psi on the cheapest 93 pump I can get with 750ml of wiper fluid on a progressive water meth kit for 6years and thousands of miles. I DD the car a few days a week in the spring/summer and take it on tips of 400 miles and has been great.
No manifolds, I did CX racing gen 1 hotside that I made a new 2.25” crossover and recirculated the down pipe (very tight).
motor is 1999 gen 1 LM7 with 150k miles when I got it. Short block is stock (didn’t even gap the rings) and did cloyes stock timing set, custom cam and GM “HV” oil pump. Top end are stock rebuilt eBay 862 heads (no notch) that I hand ported lightly, Howard .600 lift beehives and moly 7.350 pushrods with morel 5315 lifters. OTB NNBS $100 new intake, warr 92mm TB and 72lb Bosch injectors. Cam is a blowe cam 218/228 .550 114.5+5.5 that was setup for my centri I had on it the first 2 years.
it has seen 17psi on the cheapest 93 pump I can get with 750ml of wiper fluid on a progressive water meth kit for 6years and thousands of miles. I DD the car a few days a week in the spring/summer and take it on tips of 400 miles and has been great.
I’ll pull some pics for u.
That's pretty cool. I've seen some photos of the Cx, like the one you posted above. I just feel like there is a lot of tubes in the engine bay. I really like the idea of a cast manifold, kind of an 'oem' look.
I think I'm going to put this car back to manual transmission, thinking maybe tko600. I have a lakewood scattershield so I think running an 11" push clutch with a hydraulic TOB would be better than a T56 setup. Probably safer too at the track.
That's pretty cool. I've seen some photos of the Cx, like the one you posted above. I just feel like there is a lot of tubes in the engine bay. I really like the idea of a cast manifold, kind of an 'oem' look.
I think I'm going to put this car back to manual transmission, thinking maybe tko600. I have a lakewood scattershield so I think running an 11" push clutch with a hydraulic TOB would be better than a T56 setup. Probably safer too at the track.
-- Joe
So annoying it won't let me load any pics... shows 90% and then stops.
Yes, routing up front is alot of pipes, behind is cleaner but then you add length from the pass to driver side with all else being the same. Cast manifolds are great especially with strength and retaining heat. Take a look a the summit SS version as its already set up for dual 44mm WGs. Placement of the turbo is the biggest issue as it puts it right over the valve cover so smaller turbos fit but prob not the Big boys. Other issue is when you run crossover in the back you kill all your room for a DP... so it's give and take. Turbos and autos are fun, I like manuals but on a turbo car probably not as fun on the street or the track.
So annoying it won't let me load any pics... shows 90% and then stops.
Yes, routing up front is alot of pipes, behind is cleaner but then you add length from the pass to driver side with all else being the same. Cast manifolds are great especially with strength and retaining heat. Take a look a the summit SS version as its already set up for dual 44mm WGs. Placement of the turbo is the biggest issue as it puts it right over the valve cover so smaller turbos fit but prob not the Big boys. Other issue is when you run crossover in the back you kill all your room for a DP... so it's give and take. Turbos and autos are fun, I like manuals but on a turbo car probably not as fun on the street or the track.
How big are they?
I had a 5 speed in the car 10 years ago, then did a built Th350 and 2800 stall converter. I know autos are better for racing, but it felt boring on the street. My 450 6 speed C4 felt twice as fast around town than when I had the vortech T-trim on the 412" sbc.
I had a 5 speed in the car 10 years ago, then did a built Th350 and 2800 stall converter. I know autos are better for racing, but it felt boring on the street. My 450 6 speed C4 felt twice as fast around town than when I had the vortech T-trim on the 412" sbc.
Both cars have the same rear end ratio.
-- Joe
How big is what? 44mm Gates are more than you would never need in a pair. I run a 60mm single which is what the CX kit comes with (an HKS clone) and I'm able to get boost down real low if I wanted which means the gate is large enough to bleed enough exhaust and placement with good intersection to flow. If you plan to run high boost then WG size matters less as you will closed alot more and smaller allows finer tuning of boost at higher pressures for a narrow band. You just don't get the same flow from dual 38mm as you do from a larger 60mm so running really low boost like 4-6lbs depending on motor size is harder. I prefer to spring for low boost and use my EBC to double what I want so if I have a failure it hopefully goes back to lowish boost.
Autos are good with turbos bc of loading and spool, you typically will build boost sooner and easier than a manual and you tend to not loose as much the shift. Agreed on autos being boring on the street, I do enjoy the auto 90% of the time having that extra hand free. While auto with manual control isn't the same as a manual car it kinda gives you both worlds to an extent.
How big is what? 44mm Gates are more than you would never need in a pair. I run a 60mm single which is what the CX kit comes with (an HKS clone) and I'm able to get boost down real low if I wanted which means the gate is large enough to bleed enough exhaust and placement with good intersection to flow. If you plan to run high boost then WG size matters less as you will closed alot more and smaller allows finer tuning of boost at higher pressures for a narrow band. You just don't get the same flow from dual 38mm as you do from a larger 60mm so running really low boost like 4-6lbs depending on motor size is harder. I prefer to spring for low boost and use my EBC to double what I want so if I have a failure it hopefully goes back to lowish boost.
Autos are good with turbos bc of loading and spool, you typically will build boost sooner and easier than a manual and you tend to not loose as much the shift. Agreed on autos being boring on the street, I do enjoy the auto 90% of the time having that extra hand free. While auto with manual control isn't the same as a manual car it kinda gives you both worlds to an extent.
I meant how big are the photos that the upload is stalling.
I enjoy the 10 speed on my 2022, but even most of the fast auto cars I've been in the converter just takes all the punch out of it. For a dedicated track car I'd probably do an electronic controlled transmission. For something that sees street time too, the th350 bored me.
I meant how big are the photos that the upload is stalling.
I enjoy the 10 speed on my 2022, but even most of the fast auto cars I've been in the converter just takes all the punch out of it. For a dedicated track car I'd probably do an electronic controlled transmission. For something that sees street time too, the th350 bored me.
-- Joe
I tried uploading at small size and still did the same thing... 400KB up to 2MB. All stopped at 90% and hung for minutes before I would cancel out.
Agreed, the direct coupling of a manual can never be replicated by and auto unless you start locking the trans on the shifts to feel like a manual. I was never a fan of the th350, not a bad trans and cheap to build to handle decent power.
03-08-2023, 09:59 AM
