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Steve, I would stick with the 4.8. Whether it is a 4.8 or 6.0, both engines require the same amount of air/fuel in the cylinders to make the power numbers you are shooting for, it's just the smaller engine will need a tad more boost to compensate. Both engines still need to avoid succumbing to detonation either way, the larger engine isn't necessarily not prone to that. With the engine still out of the engine bay, I would highly recommend gapping your piston rings while you are able to. Could probably get away with a few pounds of boost with the stock gap setting, but how long does low boost usually last, hardly ever. People always want more, so gap the upper and lower piston rings while you are able to at a more feasible setting for your power goals...
Well.. it's in for the first mock up. I will be going through the engine, gapping rings, cam, head studs, springs, injectors and the usual LS prep. Of course a few ZZ3 special things too :-)
No the LS3 intake isn't part of the plan!
Is it just me or is the LS package shorter than gen1?
I say crack away... measure the piston to deck height while you're in there, inspect the cylinder head chambers for any work previously done, and gap those rings. You'll at least know for sure what you're working with. You're going to want better head gaskets anyway, measured appropriately. In my case I did just that with an unknown engine that I wasn't able to ID with the casting numbers, so I pulled the heads off to find the pistons (dished) and rods in great condition, bores look great, but the pistons were 0.080 in the hole. Gonna offset grind the crank to compensate for about a point increase in static compression, but I'm glad I pulled it apart...
As soon as I get the energy, time and when the engine is back out of it, I'm going to push this car outside for its first wash in four years! Engine bay is a mess compared to how it was before all of the exhaust leaks, scrapes and bangs and cussing! LOL
I'm really kind of put off at the moment by the confusion (and costs) about brackets. There are soooo many different options and caveats - which pulley, which water pump, which tensioner etc etc. Everythign matters and I have no idea what's on this engine to start with. To make it worse, I checked BTWR;s site and all brackets they offer are "ships from manufacturer with an unknown ship date. I'd prefer factory brackets and I'd like this configuration:
Power steering pump low driver drive, reuse factory hoses
AC driver top
Alternator Passenger Side high or low
Anyone know if that is a possible config? I'm trying to read up on as many posts as possible but I feel even more confused when I do. I know there is at least one bracket that allows the power steering to be in the third gen location. I could live with swapping AC/Alternator locations. It just feels like this is going to be a mess to sort out, ordering parts and realizing now this other part is wrong for this bracket etc. And worst of all $$$$, which I don't mind spending once it has been established that I'll have love for this car again. I just don't want to spend $2k in accessories on a questionable venture. Plus I though LS swaps were supposed to be super budget friendly but I'm seeing a lot of dollar signs ahead just to get it crankin.
Since my plan is subject to change, I'll repeat my general direction at the moment:
Single 76mm, Stage 3 turbo cam (brand agnostric at moment), 4L80e, need budget converter for this stock trans until I decide to spend on a built 80e, LS6 intake or MAYBE an A-Team fabricated (only because it's cheaper) but I'm worried about leaks with that one. Factory is best IMHO and looks best too. Still deciding on injector options but I know my 65s are not only old but too small for my goals. I want to make 900 crank eventually with starting goal of 700.
Plus I though LS swaps were supposed to be super budget friendly but I'm seeing a lot of dollar signs ahead just to get it crankin.
Exactly! nobody ever adds up anything other than the engine they brought home from the u-pullit. that always bugs me when people are talking about their nearly free ls swap. the little nicknacks add up bigtime.
Originally Posted by ZZ3Astro
Single 76mm, Stage 3 turbo cam (brand agnostric at moment), 4L80e, need budget converter for this stock trans until I decide to spend on a built 80e, LS6 intake or MAYBE an A-Team fabricated (only because it's cheaper) but I'm worried about leaks with that one. Factory is best IMHO and looks best too. Still deciding on injector options but I know my 65s are not only old but too small for my goals. I want to make 900 crank eventually with starting goal of 700.
the thing about a big cam and high rpm is you will get into needing a looser converter, and the assosiated poor driving traits that follow that stuff. you can make it work good at the track, but it probably wont be the best mannered on the street. i think you would probably like a milder mannered combo better. just run more boost. friends c5z06 had a plastic ls3 intake that worked fine at the 16psi 920whp area.
the thing about a big cam and high rpm is you will get into needing a looser converter, and the assosiated poor driving traits that follow that stuff. you can make it work good at the track, but it probably wont be the best mannered on the street. i think you would probably like a milder mannered combo better. just run more boost. friends c5z06 had a plastic ls3 intake that worked fine at the 16psi 920whp area.
Yeah I know, I know.. but.. but... lope!! I want lope!! But then again, as much as I loved it in my younger days I find all of that shaking and bucking at idle very annoying in my old age. Also being a 4.8 every cam seems bigger than it would in a 5.7. As such, I just ordered a pretty conservative cam. The Sloppy Best Cam. My primary deciding factor was that it is made in the USA. So I guess once again I'm stuck with a cold start lope that segways into a fairly stock sound once it is warmed up.
Those specs seem very close to Lunati. What is the IVC @ 0.050"...?
- Rob
Edit: Piston seems to be 0.008" in the hole from the factory w/zero piston volume. I cringe just thinking about the possibility of stretch at 900 hundred horsepower, but it seems to be working for people on youtube, so have at it I guess lol...
Last edited by Street Lethal; 04-12-2022 at 10:58 AM.
Those specs seem very close to Lunati. What is the IVC @ 0.050"...?
- Rob
Edit: Piston seems to be 0.008" in the hole from the factory w/zero piston volume. I cringe just thinking about the possibility of stretch at 900 hundred horsepower, but it seems to be working for people on youtube, so have at it I guess lol...
i have an LT1 with pistons 0.010" OUT of the hole. lol keep the quench reasonable and its not an issue. i may have been misleading, it wasnt a 4.8 i mentioned earlier. my friend's z06 was a built 427, it was yawning at said 900hp. actually, it may have still been spinning on that pull, all the rest were. it made torque like a semi with a small pair of turbos.
The engines are cheap enough that I wouldn't open the bottom end, even to gap the rings. Use OEM heads, do not port or modify OEM castings. Use OEM MLS head gaskets make sure the heads you have use MLS. Use Factory head bolts to 1k rwhp. Do not touch the OEM rod bolts even for 1200rwhp. Exhaust gas pressure protects the rod bolts in turbo apps. Use OEM rocker arms and keep lift below .580, I Prefer .520 to .550 Lift maximum to protect OEM rockers and maintain high rpm reliability and valvetrain stability.
It can 650rwhp on gasoline and 850rwhp on E70 with OEM ring gaps on engines with say 140k+ Miles
Use Alcohol and water injection prevent thermal expansion of the piston for racing or long duration pulls. You need it whether you gap the rings or not because those piston materials are brittle fracture failure and won't tolerate high temperature even if their rings don't butt.
For the cam everybody uses sloppy stage-2 but I found sloppy stage-1 to be satisfactory in lope and 800rwhp potential. TFS-30602001
And save some fuel and drivability. I used the tightest 9.5" converter Yank offers behind 4l80e.
As to the 4l80e, I recommend building it yourself. You are knowledgeable mechanically inclined, it will be easy for you. The 4l80e is simple, and the parts are very large, making it easy to build without much in the way of special tools or difficult snap rings and such that smaller trans like 700R4 have. I was able to build one in under a week for 800rwhp.
Here is the list of 'secret' mods recommended to build 4l80e for daily driver performance, as per Clinebarger and Dana at probuilt.
(live 'forever' at approx 800rwhp using original shafts and drums)
Use 2002-2004 rear lube 4l80e!
Trans-go AFL valve fix kit
.044" - .054" Lube to line orifice, this is drilled into pump. Alternatively Sonnax sells a PR valve with lube orifice built in https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1989-lu...egulator-valve
1/4" Pump return enlarged and filed smooth *all pumps get this*
Only use Borg Warner high energy clutches
Dual fed internally, no leaky shift kit plates, no leaky over-pressure mod
Do Not use HD2 shift kit!
1500 grit polished sprag races
2nd gear feed @ .097", 3rd gear @ .108", 4th @ .125"
Feed holes match well with 2800-3200rpm Yank Converter 9.5" Triple lockup
You must use lightweight 9.5" converter to reduce rotating mass and bushing wear.
All checkballs maintained!
Leave direct drum internal seal on (Do not remove like so many online tutorials recommend)
Rollerized rear output thrust surface (many ways to do this) Research!
Set Rear Roller Thrust for output shaft end play @ .003" from original 0.025" *tightens up the 4l80e significantly and reduced friction*
Front end play near .010" - .015" using new .075" pump washer
reaction carrier tightened up to center support at .012" from .037" (requires .005" shims)
all plastic thrust are replaced with metal (metal thrust kit)
.108" Thick HD intermediate snap ring *absolutely required no matter what*
Sonnax boost valve (OEM pressure) & PR valve w/ Internal pressure relief from Sonnax
.035" orifice added to edge of direct drum to prevent centrifugal apply (allows +7000rpm 4l80e)
File case tangs and pump recess *de-burring before assembly* and properly cleaning is essential, do not rush!
There are special mods you can do with bushings, drill shafts for fluid flow, etc... but this is considered unnecessary for a hobby level rebuild IMO
all new clutches, sprags, bearings, bushings, seals, thrust washers, bonded pistons *standard rebuild kit items*
You can use electrical tape instead of ring sizers for a single build. You will want a seal lip installer and other minor tools. Spring compressor for the drums from Amazon is very cheap.
Just buy an extra seal kit in case you damage one, they are very cheap kits full of all the rings and small seals.
I go through a 4l80e here, and you can see other ideas as it is a sort of build thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1602626211
Notes (some repeats to make sure you don't miss anything):
-frequently pressure test the plumbing, a leak will rise EGT/IAT and destroy OEM pistons
-High quality air filter drives PCV at wide open throttle and protects the pistons and crankcase. Without this the engine will smoke, leak, and burn oil.
Mileage and long term reliability is directly correlated to air filtration and PCV actions, assuming everything else is done right these are the limiting reagents.
-thermostat engine oil if using an oil cooler and ensure operating temp of engine coolant will reach 188*F to 205*F as quickly as possible. Its tempting to run cooler but the wear and tear will be unsatisfactory at lower temps.
-OEM 411 ECU from Gen3 engine is $50~ supports 200lb/hr injectors and 4l80e, will work on Gen4 internals 05-07 "L33" engine, which is the ideal Forced induction LS engine for this type of swap. If you can budget I recommend that over the 4.8 because it will shave 120lbs off the front of the vehicle and supports 1200rwhp reliably.
-4l80e can only be raced in D3 shifter position. In D4 there is no over-run support for the roller clutch. Set the trans to never downshift to 3rd from 4th automatically.
Its okay to go WOT in 4th gear with D4 position (overdrive WOT run is fine) Just not WOT in 1, 2 or 3rd while the shifter position is in D4. Hope that makes sense.
- Lightweight 9.5" lockup converter, 2800 to 3200 stall is fine for 800rwhp. This is the heart of the entire build, I would not even attempt this kind of swap without the right converter.
Make sure it's a triple clutch lockup converter- trust me on this you will miss it if you skimp here.
-I recommend retrofit an OEM shifter for the 4l80e from a 4th gen Camaro. Aftermarket shifters will cause more issues in the long run, I've seen it happen too frequently on customer cars with the adjustment range and too-easy-to melt cables. Its like they want you to melt the cable or burn the trans by being off by 0.2" in one of the gears.
And https://lt1swap.com/ has all the wiring diagrams for the LS config so you can use an OEM harness and OEM ECU with HPtuners. Which is more difficult and time consuming than a stand-alone, but the benefit of using a $50 ecu that nobody will want to steal and saves you over 1k in swap parts. Use it for the converter.
i have an LT1 with pistons 0.010" OUT of the hole. lol keep the quench reasonable and its not an issue. i may have been misleading, it wasnt a 4.8 i mentioned earlier. my friend's z06 was a built 427, it was yawning at said 900hp. actually, it may have still been spinning on that pull, all the rest were. it made torque like a semi with a small pair of turbos.
You are crazy mon lol. I definitely get it though, back in the day flame propagation was a big deal, allowing for more timing with more resistance to detonation when zeroing the deck. I'm just concerned about his starting static coimpression, which is why I asked for his IVC as I wanted to see where his dynamic came into play. These 4.8 pistons have no valve reliefs, and the 0.008" in the hole was just a number I came up with using the other infortmation which is already known about the 4.8 engine, as it would have to be 0.008" in the hole to achieve his 9.4:1. The guy has so much money in this car, I'd hate to see him break something else. KingTalon, these engines are cheap no doubt, but Steve I feel is in over his head. With 900 horsepower comes a whole host of other upgrades, including c-clip eliminators if he hasn't upgraded his rear already, though I do remember him mentioning a rear that he has. Meh, I'm in with the build, full steam ahead, just don't wanna see him or the car get hurt...
You are crazy mon lol. I definitely get it though, back in the day flame propagation was a big deal, allowing for more timing with more resistance to detonation when zeroing the deck. I'm just concerned about his starting static coimpression, which is why I asked for his IVC as I wanted to see where his dynamic came into play. These 4.8 pistons have no valve reliefs, and the 0.008" in the hole was just a number I came up with using the other infortmation which is already known about the 4.8 engine, as it would have to be 0.008" in the hole to achieve his 9.4:1. The guy has so much money in this car, I'd hate to see him break something else. KingTalon, these engines are cheap no doubt, but Steve I feel is in over his head. With 900 horsepower comes a whole host of other upgrades, including c-clip eliminators if he hasn't upgraded his rear already, though I do remember him mentioning a rear that he has. Meh, I'm in with the build, full steam ahead, just don't wanna see him or the car get hurt...
- Rob
The car stuff, chassis, rear, you guys are the experts there. I don't know anything about suspension, thats why I started using cars that the OEM suspension and diff would tolerate 1000rwhp.
Compression wise, L33 5.3L is 9.9:1 compression 1200rwhp capable. Compression isn't a hang-up on alcohol. Only gasoline fuels. And we you are using normal tires and driving the vehicle like a daily, it will be on pump fuel most of the time to save $$ which limits power to around 600rwhpish anyways, about half of what the Gen4 rods are capable of. Probably much more comfortable for reasonable suspension setup as well.
Thus, I would recommend a cautionary divider, a boundary if you will, between the ideals of street and racing quality parts. The engine is a racing quality piece on alcohol, but only a street quality piece on gasoline. The fuel choice is a major driving factor in what to do with downstream parts as suspension by way of inspection.
So for example, just to get the car going, I would use gasoline, normal tires, tune it to 600rwhp at first. A rear gear of 3.5:1 is just going to spin at the top of 4l80e-2nd with a 27" diameter street tire and 550rwhp. Forget 700+ Until everything is happy and has thousands of miles at 600rw on pump gasoline. This way you fix all the leaks, tune the transmission shifting, determine the limits of the cooling system in terms of traffic and hundred mile drives. You know, find final resting place for hoses and tighten up the fittings but not too tight. Lock things down kinda. Until you feel comfortable leaving the hood closed and just driving it like a normal car anytime you want. The oil is super clean after so many miles. THEN you switch on the flex fuel, re-evaluate the suspension, get some real tires, and hit the racing scene, tune to alcohol 800+ . $.02
Thank you for the super detailed information. That really sucks to hear about the 80e and gear 4. I'm a set it and forget it kinda guy and there is no way I won't be in 4 at some point and nail the gas for a kickdown. I'm on a Holley Dominator so I have a lot of options for programming the transmission, hopefully I can build in a protection for that to prevent downshift or something. Dana helped me with my 700R4 and all these years later that transmission was still kicking. It did start slipping in third at 550 rwhp but heck it's been 10-11 years since I built it! The fluid I drained last week looks perfect too. I thought I'd probably talk to him on the 80e at some point. The one I have now is stockish and I'll be replacing it with a built one later, if I find myself using and liking the car enough.
Can you clarify what you were saying about the PCV and air filter(s). Were you saying run a good air filter on the PCV, or talking about tieing it into the intake track and engine air filter?
At WOT you can measure crankcase pressure like this
It will give you data like this if you measure at the inlet also
The Holley ECU has a 0-5v analog input for this measurement, you may use 2-bar map sensor on the crankcase AND/OR inlet tube to dial in the WOT PCV flow.
The goal is to produce a vacuum inside the crankcase during ALL conditions, not just Idle/cruise but also WOT.
This is essential for maintaining cleanliness inside the crankcase, it will protect engine oil and prevent contamination which leads to atherosclerosis of the oil system, deposits and carbon buildup in the oil orifices which are very small in modern engines.
It is perhaps the most overlooked and underappreciated aspect of reliability and engine health of all, I suppose because the damage is invisible to us from the outside.
Like start smoking, 1 day, 1 week, 1 year, you can't really tell what the smoke is doing to the insides of a human body (or crankcase in this case). But there is damage being done all over. The circulatory system carries blood/oil to all orifices where tissue/parts depend on the oil/blood to be clean and this will have impact on anything the oil touches.
Use a Supra 96-98 Twin Turbo PCV valve inline with OEM chevrolet pcv valve on the intake suction side.
I cover all this in details in those links I posted, and more. This is just a summary.
All we are really doing is re-establishing the OEM pcv system performance. Everything I show is essentially an OEM PCV targets for crankcase evacuation, its how they make engines that go 200k 300k miles and more.... air filtering and PCV together do that.
which causes the over-runs to enable in D4 position. So you can 'set and forget it' I bet.
I never used it, seems legit but alot of extra work and parts maybe just to avoid clicking down to D3. I was also annoyed as hell at first about this situation but gradually just got used to it, now I don't even think about it, I Drive around in D3 automatically and just click up to D4 when my internal sense of engine RPM goes to highway speed mode. You know, when the engine feels like its obviously up there in RPM too much for the cruise condition 'click' rpm drops, lockup engaged.
Air filter wise I recommend AFE Pro-guard 7, with a pre-filter if you can. Go above and beyond the OEM quality and the engine may last longer than OEM. https://afepower.com/air-filter-media
When tuned properly, power and torque have nothing to do with the longevity. Piston materials are all or nothing in terms of brittle failure. Rod beam bending mechanics of materials is similarly an all or nothing deal. The parts either break instantly or live forever at whatever level you can reach. The true reliability issues are oil delivery, oil quality, air quality, operating condition boundary, fluid temperatures, tuning window, fuel quality (and fuel temp) those type of things, some are intuitive and others are not immediately obvious which is why I created the cast piston checklist and pressure test videos.
. KingTalon, these engines are cheap no doubt, but Steve I feel is in over his head. With 900 horsepower comes a whole host of other upgrades, including c-clip eliminators if he hasn't upgraded his rear already, though I do remember him mentioning a rear that he has. Meh, I'm in with the build, full steam ahead, just don't wanna see him or the car get hurt...
- Rob
Oh ye of little faith! LOL I'm not gonna be no prep street racing or tracking it at 900 hp and no cage. I just want a tire spinner that scares the &#* out of me occasionally. I have a 9 inch and chromoly driveshaft for the 80e/9", Spohn Pro Series Torque Arm (unclear on 80e fitment as shipped), big brakes etc. It's actually frightening to think about how many of us drive around with 1000+ hp fuel systems and no fire suit, helmet etc. If you really think about all of the dangers you wouldn't drive a lot of these cars around town, but life is dangerous and sometimes you have to take your chances.
It will give you data like this if you measure at the inlet also
The Holley ECU has a 0-5v analog input for this measurement, you may use 2-bar map sensor on the crankcase AND/OR inlet tube to dial in the WOT PCV flow.
The goal is to produce a vacuum inside the crankcase during ALL conditions, not just Idle/cruise but also WOT.
Great idea thank you. Also measuring and logging crankcase pressure would identify new problems quickly. I'm definitely going to add this in to my setup. Once again thanks for the super detailed information.
I was also annoyed as hell at first about this situation but gradually just got used to it, now I don't even think about it, I Drive around in D3 automatically and just click up to D4 when my internal sense of engine RPM goes to highway speed mode. You know, when the engine feels like its obviously up there in RPM too much for the cruise condition 'click' rpm drops, lockup engaged.
Me too.. I almost always stayed in D but on the highway I'd jump into OD. A few times I forgot to go to 3 and got into it. I think the 700 has a similar limitation and I think Dana set me up with a valve to handle it. That's been a long while ago and I'm just not positive if that's what it was.
Hey... if anyone here knows how much time and money you have in this car its me lol. Gapping rings is just added insurance. You wanna be able to smash the pedal without hesitation, with the only thing being worried about after the 1/4 mile is being able to stop lol. The days of cringing while making your way down the track waiting for an implosion should be long gone. This is why I am so adamant about ring gap, compression, etc. Just want you to be safe, and I don't want to see any more money being thrown out the window... though you should get a huge chunk of it back once you start selling off some items. I'll take that PTC converter for my next SBC turbo build which I will be starting a thread for shortly.
Great idea thank you. Also measuring and logging crankcase pressure would identify new problems quickly. I'm definitely going to add this in to my setup. Once again thanks for the super detailed information.
YES! The crankcase pressure monitor is an early warning system, and overall indicator of engine health and conditions related to piston ring function.
Intake tube restriction = Pressure drop to drive WOT pcv
You can monitor crankcase pressure from either valve cover or even the oil cap as shown earlier.
Remember to heavily insulate the exhaust and turbine, use quality DEI wrap and turbo blankets, put shields around it, Insulating covers, blankets, whatever it takes to keep the heat out of the engine bay. Use an IR thermometer to measure all surface temps and take action to reduce as needed. The Intake plastic should run 145 to 160*F by my measurements. The valve cover around the temp of hot oil (200*F~). Don't let valve covers go much higher than oil temps, as they will if you do not insulate and shield well enough and this will cook the valvetrain hardware reducing reliability. I'm still on my first set of LS plug wires, they have 45k miles and around 4 years of daily driving on them, the OEM truck exhaust manifolds and heavily wrapped probably keeping them alive. Pretty happy coming from SBC land as you are prob aware. The LS engine never even misfired once, not a single time, ever in all the time I've been running around with it. Pretty amazing. And all I did was: nothing. I kept all the OEM high mileage coils (use D585 up to 1000rwhp) , OEM harness and OEM style plug wires and did as little as possible. Treat it like a high mileage work truck. Use TR7 Iridium plugs gapped ~0.025" (no less than .022" and no more than 0.028") 600rwhp gasoline or 1000rw ethanol.
I tune the engine on cheap copper plugs then just before cleaning up on dyno install Iridium NGK and then never remove the plugs or look at them again. This keeps them in great shape, never take them out if you want high mileage from them.
If you want the secret to longevity its basically doing less and less anywhere you can.
Also, Make sure you separate the Downpipe heat from the Exhaust manifold heat. If the exhaust manifold heat can reach the downpipe, it will create excessive backpressure in the downpipe and hinder performance, as fluid temp needs to drop as it leaves the turbine towards exit. It will probably take two lightweight aluminum shields separating the two, along with the wrap around everything. Most people just use a fender exit so this isn't an issue; however I only build daily drivers so it is necessary to run a full length exhaust with OEM style mufflers and this is what I've learned from years of doing that.
its the little things that make the overall biggest difference. You should be able to drive normally in any conditions, wot whenever you want, and not have to worry about engine bay heating or residual heating of parts, with enough insulating and shieldings. You can get most of it for nearly free at junkyards like U-pull-it, Walk around find a car with the engine removed and there are often a bunch of high quality OEM shields to remove with 10mm hardware. Pretty fast and new looking since nobody ever touches the stuff. Fabricate a nice thin shield for the starter if the downpipe runs by, although even with crappy battery voltage the OEM starter never gave me trouble despite its 250*F temps after hours of highway and then traffic. Thin lightweight aluminum will reflect radiated heat but won't do much for the convective heat carried by airflow, high energy air molecules transferring heat to parts, for that you will need insulation. Together insulation and shields are a kind of key to the whole turbo daily driver thing.
Thanks and good luck, ask anything I will always try to help, sorry this is an enormous topic worthy of a pretty large book so I keep trying to summarize as much as I can.
I'll take that PTC converter for my next SBC turbo build which I will be starting a thread for shortly.
- Rob
We can probably make that happen. I have a ton of parts I need to move. It's not easy dealing with selling all of this but it needs to be done. I'm debating on keeping some of it but I've got the following:
Polished TPI intake complete (still looks good, not quite as mirror polished as it once was of course)
Pro Flo XT (black) standard port
Pro Flo XT (silver) Vortec (less than 150 miles)
2x Fastburn Heads (less than 150 miles)
ZZ3 Short block with SRP forged pistons, aftermarket cam
2x SRT cast turbo manifolds new in box (has T3 flange and T4 adapters)
The original SBC turbo log and most of the piping (plug wire burner setup!)
The new SBC turbo header setup (intended for D ports), will need work on the flanges to correct warping caused by previous "machinist" person
I also have the original shortblock and heads. I should have the tpi too but not sure where it is. Some of this stuff I have friends that might want but if anyone is looking for any of these items let me know so I can keep you in mind when the time comes to move it all.
I've been stalled for the past week or so with work related responsibilities and some RA related issues kicking in once again. I'm getting ready to order the oil pan. I'm not sure where my Sloppy cam is!! It should have been here days ago. I did manage to put on a corvette alternator/power steering pump accessory setup that I borrowed for a mockup. I'll get back on this in a week or two hopefully.
Would be cool to have a little build off action going, as I am down to my final SBC block to build, and after that I am done with third gens, though I will never actually sell mine lol. Short block is sitting on the rotisserie stand as I contemplate what I'll be doing with the rolling assembly. Heads are just about done. Non roller block but will be running a roller cam. Our specs are very close, 5.0 vs 4.8, even valve sizes, though your heads flow much much better, obviously. Meh, I'm still up for it if you are, in a fun way of course...
I'm not sure where my Sloppy cam is!! It should have been here days ago.
not sure if you got a tracking number on the cam, but most all engine parts are backordered into oblivion right now. and its going to get worse in the coming months with the backup in shanghai. more good news to look forward to.
Would be cool to have a little build off action going, as I am down to my final SBC block to build, and after that I am done with third gens, though I will never actually sell mine lol. Short block is sitting on the rotisserie stand as I contemplate what I'll be doing with the rolling assembly. Heads are just about done. Non roller block but will be running a roller cam. Our specs are very close, 5.0 vs 4.8, even valve sizes, though your heads flow much much better, obviously. Meh, I'm still up for it if you are, in a fun way of course...
- Rob
I wish I could say I had a chance but I bet you'll be on the road way before I will. Not only have I had to slow way down due to another RA flare, but I've really stepped up my motorhome hunt. It's getting near summer and my plan is to live 75% in Tennessee for June and July. That's assuming I find one before then. I will be putting as much work in as I can, but I'll be lucky to have it running before July-Aug. Not sure why I'm feeling so bad, I was doing good on my diet but something set me off. If I suddenly feel better I'll knock out a bunch of work in a few days, but if I need parts along the way there will be delays.
Originally Posted by DIGGLER
not sure if you got a tracking number on the cam, but most all engine parts are backordered into oblivion right now. and its going to get worse in the coming months with the backup in shanghai. more good news to look forward to.
Supposedly made in the USA and in stock when I ordered. But wouldn't surprise me. Might have to run stock cam for a while. All I know is I confirmed the money was taken, but I didn't receive and order confirmation email or anything.,
I wish I could say I had a chance but I bet you'll be on the road way before I will. Not only have I had to slow way down due to another RA flare, but I've really stepped up my motorhome hunt. It's getting near summer and my plan is to live 75% in Tennessee for June and July. That's assuming I find one before then. I will be putting as much work in as I can, but I'll be lucky to have it running before July-Aug. Not sure why I'm feeling so bad, I was doing good on my diet but something set me off. If I suddenly feel better I'll knock out a bunch of work in a few days, but if I need parts along the way there will be delays.[
Steve, make sure you are at least doing some fasted cardio during your diet, and not just regular cardio. Fasted cardio triggers the release of stem cell production. I don't necessarily agree with most Doctors of the notion that rheumatoid arthritis attacks healthy tissue for no apparent reason, which makes absolutely no sense. Fasted cardio, as well as increasing your ph level through proper diet. Just make sure you're getting exercise, because as Bruce Lee once said... running water never grows stale. As for my build getting done before yours, I doubt it. I'm in no rush. Figured the pressure from the competition would push us to get it done as fast as possible, otherwise it's going to take quite awhile which is why I haven't even started a thread. Need incentive lol...
not just regular cardio. Fasted cardio triggers the release of stem cell production.
Haha... I'm not even doing sleeping cardio. I get lucky to have the ability to do things in a given day. That's my cardio, doing normal things, and by the time I would be in a fasting state I'm laid up in pain. Now I am about to start the AIP diet hopefully in the next week, and I am hoping it might put me out of pain for a bit at least. The diet is going to be the hardest thing I've ever done, so we are going to only go a few days, maybe 3 or 5 and then revert back to low carb, Then I'll try to go for the full 30 days before easing back to low carb over time as I try to find my triggers. If only I could hit the gym right now. I'm at 187 from a high of 240 two years ago. If I could hit the gym a few nights a week I could get in great shape right now, but unfortunately that is completely impossible as things are right now.
I absolutely agree with your thoughts though!
Originally Posted by Street Lethal
Need incentive lol...
For sure! Well I will be pushing forward, but just know your mission speed will be minimally challenging! Can't let snails outrun us though!
Got notification today that my cam shipped. Probably if I get the inside of the engine done I'll be pretty motivated to get it started up.
Wow.... has it been that long?! Sadly, I don't have good news to report on my health. I did start a new treatment a couple of months ago but so far it has only made things worse.
49 update.. and this is important fr the car below: I've been driving the crap out of it. Turn the key and go. Every time!
Iroc update... Have been selling off the Gen 1 parts and can't get motivated on the LS project. I've been doing a lot of thinking and IF the Iroc project moves forward I think it's going to have to be late model LT. A complete LT4 with trans sounds perfect. At $15k it seems outrageous, but looking at my 4.8 I still need to address rings, bearings, studs, head gaskets, cam, accessories and brackets, acquire a 4L80e, build out the turbo plumbing hot and cold sides, injectors, Holley harne$$es and plenty more. I'm about $7k away from being on the road with a decent trans build. And thats before all of the tuning starts. Should I pursue the LT4 option, I can sell off my Holley Dom, turbo and components, the rest of the Gen 1 parts and the LS. Between the savings to not build and the revenues from selling everything I'll have $12k+ in my pocket. I would drop that LT4 in completely stock, right down to the CATs and happily drive my Iroc any time I want. Option C is keep the $12k in my pocket and not build anything! Depends how I'm feeling I suppose.
So that's where things are. Hope everyone is doing well.
Wow just read your entire thread what an adventure between health, houses, shops, business, builds, vaccinations and then some. I've been through some very similar adversity. Was declared legally blind overnight for 5 years. Simply put became unable to tolerate how doctors had been correcting my poor vision. Had to leave my career, not watch grandkids grow up, unable to read, difficulty just walking not being able to see, not to mention finding out how people can treat the disabled in this world all over night. Living in the rural midwest not many programs or help available. Developed Chronic Pancreatitis while blind, leading to some anxiety, several diagnoses of other health issues logging hundreds of miles to specialist with my better half. Knee problems developed, falling down alot lead to even more back issues that now include herniated disc, bone spurs, compressed spine, and arthritis. Went through several types of diets and exercise routines. Then tore my rotator cuffs trying to lift weights of all things. Currently on my 2nd surgery on the 1st shoulder and remains to be seen if that will work. I'm told many more surgeries to come for all my health issues. While all this went on moved neighborhoods from the hood to a nicer neighborhood. Took almost 2 years to sell the original home with 8 cars and 13 years worth of tools and parts to move. New house had to have a new shop, told the wife it was a prerequisite of buying a new home. Still no HVAC in the shop all though the new 40x60' shop is plumbed for radiant floor heat haven't got to finishing it yet and the cost on things like that just continue to increase. The floor plumbing has unfortunately kept me from finding anyone that will install a lift and not guarantee to hit the lines in the concrete. Also not even as close to insulated yet as my previous shop. Currently down to 3 homes and a commercial property though. Was also able to get special prosthetic lenses to be able to see while they are in and tolerable. Just go day to day as I never know how much pain I'll be in. Currently we also give back with foster care and adopting a couple kiddos. So much more to my story but the family and I hang in there every day as I've yet to hit the age of 50. Hope you keep chugging along and you never know things could certainly be worse and hopefully get better for you. At least that's been the mindset I've had to go with especially after suddenly loosing my mother after a "simple" back surgery only a few months ago. Some days I just don't wanna do it but I keep going. Much like you I just can't always find the strength or put the pain aside to do the projects I love and play with my toys as we like to say. I do have a great mechanic that helps with my projects when I'm just not physically able. I know our situations are not the same but reading your thread reminded me of what I've been through over the last few years and continue to deal with. Best wishes to you sir and hope things look up for you soon!
04-07-2022, 06:19 AM
