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Is there any way to route the supercharger inlet away from the driver's side header/manifold? I plan on running a D1SC and I have been looking at pictures and videos of the ATI Procharger mounted on a thirdgen and they all seem to have the same thing; a small section of tube running over the valve cover area with a filter at the end. I plan on running an intercooler to keep IAT as low as possible, but sucking in 200 degree heat directly from the headers seems less than ideal and downright counter-productive.
Ceramic coating headers will reduce under hood temperatures as a start.
Haven;t found a better route my self either, but Plan A I am working towards is to run a Spectre heat shield under the filter for the interim. However, by the time I cut away all the conflicting areas, there may not be much left to protect from header heat. https://www.spectreperformance.com/s...aspx?prod=9730
PLan B mods - To get additional airflow to this filter location, I am also considering cutting louvers into the hood to pull in fresh air at this location. Thinking of building a CAI box in the engine bay that would utilize a large K&N flat filter, in the CAI box, which would mating surface installed to match to the matching surface for louvers on the hood. More thought needed here though.
HP52TA: The ceramic coating on the headers will definitely help with reducing underhood temperatures. That, I think, we can all agree on. The Spectre heat shield does seem like a good idea as well. It would be interesting to see a before and after of the IAT readings to see how much of a difference it actually makes.
tom86iroc: Thanks for the link. I went through all the posts and the cowl setup seems kinda cool. It will not work for my application, however, as I will be running a blow through carb setup and I am not sure that sealed style cowl plate thingy will fit with the carb/air hat.
It makes me wonder about a few things though...
If we were to swap over to the 4th gen brake booster and master cylinder setup, COULD there be more available room to run the intake tube between the booster and the driver's side strut tower area? Maybe???
Does ATI make a bracket (or can the bracket be reversed?) that allows the D1SC head unit to be mounted on the passenger side? I was looking at my empty engine bay tonight and envisioning what the setup would look like. If the head unit was at the top on the passenger side, the inlet tubing could run between the valve cover and strut tower area, then wrap around the rear portion of the strut tower and end up near where the blower fan would be. Still not ideal, but better, and at least you could wrap the intake tube with that aluminzied heat shielding where it runs parallel to the headers.
OK didnt realize you were carb'd lol i've never seen a bracket mount it on the pass for a chevy before but a couple guys tried bring the intake down under the car near the front fender well opening
Does anyone know what the major differences are between an LT1 cylinder block and heads vs a traditional SBC block and heads? The reason why I am asking is I came across this on ATI's website...
So basically, they are mounting the head unit backwards but it is on the passenger side. This is for a 92-96 Corvette with an LT1/LT4 engine so I am not sure if the bracket will bolt up to a traditional small block or not. Maybe it COULD with some modification?
Clicking on the kit information, you can see that they do offer a D1SC upgrade option, which is great, but I think that I would skip on the other stuff like the fuel pumps and intercooler in favor of running my own.
With the rear of the head unit facing forward, intake tube piping is way easier to route. The battery can either be moved to the driver's side or in the rear hatch area. A 3.5in hole can be cut in the factory battery location and a true cold air intake can be fashioned while still allowing the supercharger outlet to get plumbed to the front for a FMIC.
I am interested by this topic too. From what I have read, you want as little distance as possible between the Procharger inlet and the cold air source. You definitely don't want many bends to restrict flow either. If you are intercooled then I just wouldn't worry- it will remove the heat.
Not sure the shield would do anything to be honest.
Having said that I have open louvers and ceramic headers on mine.
So I bit the bullet and called ATI again yesterday regarding the D1SC LT1 kit and whether or not it would work for my application. The tech didn't seem to think that it would work as the LT1's are designed for reverse cooling and the placement of the head unit was out of necessity due to space constraints and routing of the serpentine belt. He, very much like you ZZ42Fast, seemed to think that the intercooler should respectably remove the heat from the air charge. He put it to me like this...even if the outside temperature was say 50 degrees, the blower is going to heat up the air charge to something like 180 degrees. By the time it passes through the IC, IAT should be close to the 75-90 degree range if the intercooler is doing its job. I don't want to say that we argued about it, cause we really didn't, but the point I was trying to make was that here in FL (or any southern state for that matter), in the summertime, ambient outside temperatures can get upwards of 95+ degrees. If we can agree that the heat coming off of the headers/manifolds is somewhere in the 300*-500* degree range, and that heat can create underhood temperatures of 150*-200* degrees, then you have 200* degree air being heated up EVEN FURTHER by the head unit. This is making the IC work really hard to cool down the intake charge and I would bet you'd see a large margin between ambient and actual air temp going into the throttle body/carb. He said that they have a few guys running an electric fan mounted behind the IC as a puller to draw air through it, which in my mind confirms that the IAT was hot enough to require some sort of intervention. Personally, I want to stay away from methanol if at all possible and I want to do it using 93 octane pump gas.
Personally, I plan on running a Godspeed or Treadstone FMIC behind the front bumper and making it as large as I can safely fit while keeping good intake piping geometry, i.e no 90 degree bends or u turns.
That being said, I don't necessarily know if the 87-92 kit is the best option for me. I assume that it is designed to be run with the factory serpentine belt arrangement, which I don't have. I don't want to use their intercoolers/pumps/injectors etc. and the intake connection is designed for a throttle body, which as I will be blow through, I also won't have. Due to this, I have been looking at the ATI 1CX100-D1SC which is designed for aftermarket efi and carb'd SBC/BBC engines. It is a cheaper kit cause it is bare bones, but I am not sure about the fitment in the f body engine bay. Here is a pic of the kit...
Are you planning on deleting your AC? Id call ATI and see if you can get the dimensions of the setup. They usually have a height/width diagram of the entire setup.
86CamaroDan: I do not plan on running a/c. I would like to retain the heater core/blower motor so that I can prevent fog on the front windshield. This is going to be a weekend warrior car that will see some track use occasionally. ATI had referred me to their catalogs that have the dimensions listed, however, I was unable to find the overall dimensions for either the 87-92 f body kit.
I was able to scrounge this up though...
I am hoping that the 1CX100-D1SC is grouped in with that. Still haven't found anything like this for the f body kit to compare sizes.
I have a couple procharger setups, and will be running one on my superram car. I am interested to see what you guys come up with. I was planning to use the bigger blower on my Ls1 car since the Indiana Muscle bracket doesn't have slip issues, but if there is a better way, Id rather go big on my Formula.
60 deg air inlet temp would mean 203 deg discharge at 12 psi and 70% blower efficiency.
140 deg air inlet temp would mean 304 deg at same conditions
200 deg would be 379 deg f.
You can see there is merit with finding cold air
However, if you run a big air air cooler or better yet a water air with ice box, you can make it work. As long as air temps are under 150 ish deg you would be ok for the most part.
Depending on how the motor is built or the fuel used.
The big treadstone 1300 hp air cooler fits in the nose well and would cool air temps well for the most part. It cooled roughly 310 deg air to 150-160 for me at the end of an 8.8 sec pull. But that was alot of air mass flow as well ~1000 whp. A 300-600 whp setup likely would get better results
Orr89RocZ: Just out of curiosity, where did you get a hold of those numbers? If those values are concrete and legit, then there is credence to my initial thought process on trying to find a way to source air from outside the engine bay. Were they measured from your own car or from another publication?
I suppose that I will just have to purchase a kit in the future, hook it all up and flat out see what it does. I may have one thing going for me in that I will be using a blow through carb for delivery. The fact that there will be liquid, albeit atomized, fuel in the intake tract, it MIGHT provide a small amount of cooling for the extremely short duration that the air/fuel mixture travels down the intake runners.
These are from a gas properties program. Used to simulate conditions for large compressor processes. I often use it for air properties to estimate turbo/blower temps. They are pretty accurate
Does ATI make a bracket (or can the bracket be reversed?) that allows the D1SC head unit to be mounted on the passenger side? I was looking at my empty engine bay tonight and envisioning what the setup would look like. If the head unit was at the top on the passenger side, the inlet tubing could run between the valve cover and strut tower area, then wrap around the rear portion of the strut tower and end up near where the blower fan would be. Still not ideal, but better, and at least you could wrap the intake tube with that aluminzied heat shielding where it runs parallel to the headers.
Thoughts?
Making a bracket hold the procharger is easy. I did run a procharger for about 2 years before selling it. (went back to Vortech). But anyway, this is what a passenger side install looks like of a s/c: (my car)
If you lost the HVAC box, you could run the intake pipe to the passenger fender. I've been investigating removing the whole under dash HVAC stuff and replacing with an electric blower/heater and flexible ducts myself.
Another option, is running a cowl hood and building an air box that sits on top of the motor:
02-25-2018, 12:31 AM
