When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys. Decided to convert more of the car back to stock to make it more drive-able. This includes removing the 4" exhaust and putting a summit 3" catback in. Thats when I figured out my sumped stock tank wouldn't allow the stock style exhaust to be run. UGH. Picked up a used stock tank from a somewhat local member (thanks Jonathan!) Ordered a Aeromotive 340lph pump which should be arriving today. Going to run stock lines out of the tank but will connect to -6an braided to the aeromotive regulator and then -10 back to the tank which will be reduced to 5/16" for the stock return size. I'm only pushing 500-550hp at the crank at 10-12psi. Its a 5.3 LS with 58psi rail pressure with 72lb bosch injectors, and the regulator is 1:1 boost referenced. So I should be seeing 68-70psi at max boost.
But it looks like the aeromotive 340 pump doesn't have the harness to fit the stock wiring? I dont have it yet to verify but I know the stock wiring isn't adequate. So I ran a 40amp relay to the tank area with a 10 gauge feed. Going to run 14 gauge to the stock wiring at the tank and leave it stock inside? Its such a short run do you think it will be ok? Otherwise I have no idea how to run wiring in through the sending unit and down to the pump. Didn't really want to drill out the stock wiring connector and seal it up all $hitty and don't want to pay the price for the racetronix stuff. Also the pics dont show it comes with the giant Oring seal for the lock ring? I also assumed the stock pressure fitting on the 3/8" hard line at the tank was 16mmx1.5?
So what do I do about wiring? And what about the tank venting? I'm going to leave the stock vent with the valve and the other is the EVAP with the rollover valve which I thought about leaving open to atmosphere or putting a seccond stock plastic valve on it. I also tend to run a drilled out stock gas cap to help with pressure releasing.
Well that sucked. Got the pump when I came home and of course doesn't come with the connector to connect it to the stock intank harness. Their is no seal for the sending unit to the tank lock ring. Pump seems shorter to me and alittle worried about the rubber connector from the pump outlet to fuel line connection in the tank.
Decided to pull the bulkhead connector/seal at the top of the sending unit and thought I would run all the wires through the hole and seal it up but then realized the connector wouldn't reach outside of the tank for me to make the connection. I have no idea how shrink wrap holds up in fuel so I don't want to make any connections/splices in the fuel tank. The bulkhead clip and plastic got mangled getting it out and worse getting it back on. Decided to drill a small 1/8-3/16" hole in the sending unit and fish the supplied aeromotive pigtail/harness through it. Then I JB welded the hole closed and sealed around the loose as hell bulkhead connector. I connected everything back up and giving it time to dry and harden up. Wish I hadn't pulled the bulkhead tho that was unnecessary and I only screwed it up lol.
So since I couldn't find any definitive answers on the forum about the aeromotive GM 340lph pump kit I will share them.
1.) It does not come with a sender snap ring seal for the top of the tank. Luckily I had a good one from a past swap in a different car from a walbro or something.
2.) comes with submersible fuel line I think and worm clamps (no thanks) for connection inside tank. I reused the stock coupler and hope it holds a seal.
3.) it comes with pre terminated pigtail and an extension pigtail with stripped ends. Nothing will plug into the stock setup so your on your own there. The difference in wire thickness is substantial. Stock is very thin prob a 18 gauge and the new wire is prob closer to 14 gauge. Decided it was best to run the supplied wire for full voltage. I will upgrade my 14 gauge from the relay to 12 or 10 gauge to the pump so I should have zero voltage drop and get the max out of the pump.
4.) comes with new strainer and foam isolator for around the pump. I put a SS worm clamp to hold it secure to the hanger for added safety.
5.) comes with nothing else, everything has to be reused.
Overall pump feels solid, supplied wiring and connections feels solid. Tested the pump and it zinged to life. Waiting for the JB weld to cure and will tighten down the lock ring and figure out wiring connections. Then the tank goes back in and wait for fuel line adapters.
Last edited by customblackbird; 07-11-2016 at 11:55 PM.
Thats basically how i did my triple pumps. I used the racetronic double pump wiring kit for the main 2, and for the 3rd i ran my own relay and hobbs switch, pumched thru the tank top as well and jb weld to seal. Worked well
Havent looked at it since but seems to be fine. Could try rightstuff rtv as well
Thats why i like racetronix. They have everything in the pump kit. Atleast from what i recall. They make a 340 lph pump too
Yea but at how much? I already ran 10 gauge to within 2ft of the tank. Then I can run 10 - 14 gauge for the short 2ft to the pump. Total cost was $112 for the pump. Wish someone sold a decent install kit (filter, oring sender seal etc).
Not much at all, I even have an extra intank assembly that I modded if you need, cut the lines and installed saginaw fittings to be used with adapters. Came out very nice, just have way too much stuff lying around. BTW if you have or know someone who has a complete running L98 engine lemme know...
The looseness of the stock pump to hardline connector made me uneasy as pulling the tank for a pump swap would not be fun. So I pulled the sending unit and swapped the OeM coupler with the provided hose and clamps. Feels much more secure and now I just hope it works for a long time.
Ended up getting the tank in too. Man wat a PITA!! I could get my old tank in and out in like 5-10min max. Idk if the 91 tank is different than the 87 or what but I could not get that thing in. Messed with it for like an hour and eventually got it in but geez. Hope I don't need to take that out for a while.
Decided to just solder and crimp spade terminals on the pump wires and connect it right to the 14gauge off the relay. It's prob 12" long and then the pump wires are like another 12" so 2ft of 14 gauge can carry a lot of amps. Relay is fed with 10gauge so not worried about pump voltage. Quick turn of the key and the pump zinged so it's still connected and working.
Racetronix sells the whole harness and all. I bought their house brand 340lph. They sell the bigger wiring with the yellow bulkhead connector and all. Give them a call.
Racetronix sells the whole harness and all. I bought their house brand 340lph. They sell the bigger wiring with the yellow bulkhead connector and all. Give them a call.
Yea I already knew that. I don't want to pay the high prices of their wiring kits. Their pumps for the most part are reasonably priced. However the Aeromotive 340 doesn't have the OEM style plug so you would have to cut and splice into the supplied pump connector. Then your dealing with wires being soaked in fuel and Idk how heat shrink etc will react/perform submerged in gas. So I'd rather not take that risk. To buy an already overpriced harness just to hack it up doesn't seem worth it to me.
The pump is in and so far has primed multiple times and all is well. It should be getting its full voltage as well as the pump sounds pretty good. Total cost was $113 for the pump. $9 for the adapter fitting on the stock pressure hard line and I hooked it into all the original AN lines I had run before hand.
Yea took me a while to find it on their site... they gotta upgrade that site!
Cheaper than I thought it was but I would need to get their hotwire kit to utilize the 3 pin weatherpack connector... or make my own but then I dont have the bulkhead connector in the floor pan. Ultimately a billet drop in fuel tank hat with true AN ports and wire through studs is the best option.
Sorry didnt know. Think I paid 50 for the wiring. Its everything from the pump to the connector behind th rear seat. In larger gauge wiring.
Somewhat older thread. What pump and wiring did you get from Racetronixs? It looks like the RXP369 is the equivalent to the Aeromotive 11569 but it doesn't list is in the cross-reference chart.
07-11-2016, 04:02 PM
