toronto formula

iTrader: (1)

Hi I have been searching the boards but have not found this info anywhere. I have a 305 tpi stock engine on a 89 formula. I will be adding a paxton sn2000 sc. I am trying to figure out the water/methanol injection rate but can't find this info anywhere
I will be running 6-8 psi of boost and assuming 300 hp after the install of the paxton

I found a guide chart on snow performance that shows approx 373 ml/min or 5.1 gph for 300 hp

Any help on confirming or correcting the injection rate is appreciated

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I used devils own chart but either way arround 315-385cc for a 300Hp-400Hp car is about where you wana be. Depending on what the nozzle is rated at and what the pump actually puts out in pressure also adds to the equation. Are you using a wideband o2 sensor? Normally, at least, in turbo applications you don't want anymore then 1.0 afr drop when using alky. So if your running 12.0 afr without the alky and get 10.5 or so with the alky, then your shooting in too much alky.

Personally start with a 300cc or so nozzle and go from there. Depending on the brand as there are many different small nozzle sizes out there. Also, many times the nozzles are tested at 100Psi and the pump tosses out 125-150psi. In turn, the nozzles are actually flowing more then there advertised.

toronto formula

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply

I am not using the wideband O2 sensor is this necessary or are there benefits.

Do you recommend using a progressive boost pump I.e. 25 percent boost gives 25 percent flow, 50 percent boost gives 50 percent flown etc. The reason I ask is I was thinking building my own injection system which would only be on off operation with a hobbs pressure to turn it on a low boost level

Maybe it is not such a good idea to the diy route?

freaky

a wideband is damn nice when your trying to tune

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I did a dyi kit. I just pieced all the parts together. My pump sprays constant pressure no matter the boost as long as the boost is over 6psi. I have a hobbs switch which is bacically a contact that closes(if you set it to) at whatever psi you want. Keep in mind I usually make WOT pulls only since I race the car at the track mostly.

Parts I used/have:
AEM reserc alky pump.
AEM check valve and nozzle.
Hobbs contact boost switch.
1/4 inch poly lines and quick connects.
My window wiper fluid tank for my alky to be stored.
A silinoid from cooling mist to control the on/off flow of the alky.
A simply relay for the pump.
A led to let me know that the hobbs swich is activated under my set boost point.

If your street driving alot on the car then a progressive controler would be better if you can afford it. Exspecially since your runninng a SC.

A wideband is a must IMO weather you have a carb or EFI for boost applications. Its the only true way to know what the air fuel ratio is short of knowing the EGT'S. Anytime you play with the stock fueling of a car I feel a WB o2 kit is needed anyways to dial it in well.

If you have the cash a assembled alky injection kit is a good thing to get. But you can piece it together if you want.