92firebird 305

Good deal Steve well when you get it done and you decide to dyno it let me know so i can dyno my car to if its before march 16th.

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

Hey man. The torque converter is important and all but what about those exhaust manifolds you were building??

ZZ3Astro

I decided to do one thing at a time, and my budget got a little tighter than planned over the winter. And between doing converter, manifolds and fixing the engine at the same time it was just too much. I'm glad now, since the converter project has ballooned into the pain that it has.

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

I can certainly appreciate that. I was just hoping to get ideas for my manifolds from you. I have yet to find a good inexpensive turbo manifold. I'll be doing twins though. Thanks for the work and engineering you have done so far.

ZZ3Astro

So much for that plan. My friend cannot seem to produce the Holeshot 2400. I'm AM going to call PTC tomorrow and sort this out for once and for all. I don't care if I have to call every five minutes until I get someone.

Work has been insane. I hired someone and it seems like I'm working MORE instead of less now. I'm just worn out every evening and spend my weekends letting my back recover. One good thing is the money is going to be great and perhaps put me in a position to move forward on a few things soon.

ZZ3Astro

Talked with PTC again today. They pretty much forgot everything about me so had to get the file. After he called back he said I already had the nitrous top and there wasn't a whole lot let to do, maybe 600-700 rpm better max, besides me buying the $900 non-lockup bigger converter instead. It seems the answers change a bit each time, so I'm just done with PTC.

Next I called Circle D. They had positive things to say about PTC. That's always a good sign when they don't take a bad mouthing opportunity. So basically he said they wouldn't have put me in another 9.75" converter if I was already flashing one to 5000 rpm. He has a 10.25" with lockup that he said would work much better at handling the torque I am making. Of course that's another $900 on top of the $500 I wasted on the PTC.

Anyone want a 'tight' PTC converter for a 700r4? And how about a Vigilante 2800? I need to raise some money or just throw the towel in. My frustration level is starting to rise quickly on this subject.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Sorry to hear about the converter issues. Ptc always has been easy to deal with and spot on with their converters for me. Maybe its the lockup style thats preventing them from designing a tight converter? Mine was 3600 stall behind 700 whp estimated, but thats because it spooled so late motor didnt make much before 4200. On old combo that spooled sooner it still only stalled 4000-4200 like i asked for

I have the 9.5" one for a th400 so no lockup. Just sent it back few weeks ago for restall. Had it back to my door in a week and a half, and most of that was in transit to and from.

Not sure what else you can do? Edge has been good to me but never pushed that much power. Now i did have a 3600 stall in a nitrous 383 that may have made 550 lbft at the tires. Stall didnt change much maybe 3800-4000 rpm with all the torque. So not to shabby.

I dont think you need to lock up under wot. I never went any faster that way, just locked it for dyno tuning to see higher numbers

ZZ3Astro

Right, I have no plans to lock up except for highway driving and eventually (when I get a lockup friendly ECM) any cruising in 3 and 4 when I'm not over some reasonable throttle position. But I'm certainly not going to throw the lockup out of the picture in a car I take trips in. I'm going down to Orlando in a month or so which is about a six hour run. My friend finally got O'Rielly to come through on the Holeshot 2400. I guess I will be trying that after-all now. He just told me today.

ZZ3Astro

Still haven't had time to arrange for the converter install. Went to the Fbody cruise this weekend and someone stole my keys. Next thing you know this happened:



Full spool in less than a car length LOL. Yes it can hook but they were obviously trying to destroy my tires. He jumped out and ran away right after the video, so I did get my car back.

Drac0nic

Even with the issues you've had with the build this car is still awesome, and your fearless nature of driving it everywhere is great.

92firebird 305

i was in steve's car when his buddy did the burn out his car is badass .

JAYDUBB

Any updates?

ZZ3Astro

Not much new on the Iroc at this time. I'm waiting for my friend to call me when he's ready to get it on his lift for the 2400 converter install. I've been driving it like crazy though and it's been running well. Just made a video tonight with a new GoPro I picked up..



No major plans at the moment aside from the converter. It's boating season so I've been doing some upgrades on the boat. Probably pull the engine out to work on the oil burning issue when the hottest weather comes.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Good stuff Steve, we're headed down to Florida in July, maybe we'll get the chance to swing by and take a ride, but not in the turbo Iroc though... on that boat!


- Rob

ZZ3Astro

LOL! Well either or both is fine with me. It does look like the Iroc teardown will be going on around that time, so the boat may be the only option anyway! Not sure how long it will be apart. I guess it depends on which parts I have money for and the results of the new converter which is going in this week (finally!). Wow it's been over TWO months I've been waiting?! Guess that's why I am going somewhere else to do it.

Anyway keep me posted!

ZZ3Astro

Ok, tonight we knocked out the converter in 1.5 hours. Results are pretty good so far. The rpm finally seems under control. The car still seems to have instant boost but the total boost is lower. Before the engine was just blasting to 4500-5000 rpm and making 16.5 psi. Now it starts around 3300 rpm and I guess with less total volume of exhaust isn't making as much. The highest I saw on the way home was 12.7. The tune is in need of some work now as the AFR was in the mid to upper 12's at some points. Not sure how close my timing is but I think it's not far from right. I managed to do one 1st, 2nd, 3rd blast. It went sideways in 2nd. In 3rd it felt like someone lighted a booster rocket but I had to get out because of a slow moving 18 wheeler ahead. Then the next time I got into it I felt a skip from a dreaded burned plug wire. Most likely the one we were messing with that was originally going around the dipstick tube for the transmission. But I was at my street just as that happened so I called it quits for the night. I was datalogging, so tomorrow I will check to see if I might have been a bit lean in that last blast, which may have cooked a wire that wasn't affected before.

A few places it really feels strong as expected. In others I'm not as impressed, but then I keep looking over and seeing 11-12 psi and realize I've got plenty of reserve to tap into. Time will tell.

ZZ3Astro

Found the problem. It was a cooked boot on #6, plus the wire for #2 was well done. Replaced both, got first ticket in 15 years in only thirty seconds from the first full boost test on all 8 cylinders. Really liking the way it feels now!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Just watched the last video Steve, and your spot on about the gears. Switching to 2.73's, or 3.08's will make a huge difference with the 700R4. I tried explaining this to Mark (fasteddi) but he opted for 3.73's, which do not benefit the other gears, only first. She's pulling hard for sure now, can't wait to see some new track videos soon...

- Rob

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Ok, this video has just convinced me that my 91 is getting the boost lol. Sick *** ride man!!

ZZ3Astro

The high boost spark gremlin strikes again, but this time totally my fault. Returning home from a cruise-in about 60 miles away, the car went into a lean-normal-lean cycle. I was able to quickly source it down to the WBO2 signal to the MS. Turns out in my original conversion to the MS, where I soldered and heat-shrunk every single wire involved, for some reason I twisted and TAPED this one. Go figure. I disabled closed-loop and problem was deferred to later. I fixed that yesterday, now soldered as it should have been.

Unfortunately the side-effect of the glowing manifolds was yet another cooked plug wire (or perhaps a bad plug. At 12 psi and below, no problem. Above 12 psi it drops the spark on one cylinder. When I move the plug wires around sometimes it works fine and eventually goes back to the same issue. I'm going to just replace the wires on the turbo manifold side and add even more thermal protection to them.

In order to get to all of those wires, the turbo has to come off. This is a good opportunity to tighten the bolts on the oil return line flange, as it has slowly started to leak oil down the outside of the return line, which ends up dripping onto the wastegate return line.

The car runs amazingly well on all 8 cylinders. It will now spin in third on some roads below 55 mph. Even on 7 cylinders it will spin second below 40. Last night I went to a cruise-in (same one as the lean-out occurred a week earlier. A GTO driver has been wanting to ride in my car (he runs 93-94 mph 1/8] but I explained the issue with 7 cylinders in high boost. He still wanted a ride. Funny thing is afterwards he seemed to forget all about the 7 cylinder thing and kept saying he can't understand how it kept up so well with the 615 hp Callaway Vette he was riding in at the time. It really did run flat when he rode in it last night, because two passengers + a missing cylinder does that! Sometimes it is a good thing to under impress though. I heard tonight he wants to race. I'll point the go-pro backwards for that one. I want to get some Callaway action too, as the previous fun was with the old converter.

So this week I'm doing a partial tear-down of the turbo system to replace the wires and fix the oil leak. Also my power steering pump as sprung a leak so I might as well tackle that. I've also brought my header mockup back out. Hoping to do somethiing with that shortly.

92firebird 305

That was fun ridin in your car steve .Dont forget i want a race to lol. my 7.95 in the 1/8 got my all thinkin my gto is fast now.

ZZ3Astro

Arrrrrgggggh... fix one problem and another shows up.

So the tear-down and new plug & wire thing went smoothly. About six hours of work total for the passenger side. No more spark problems at all and the oil return fitting leak was taken care of. With the new-found pleasure of two aggrevating problems gone, we set off down the coast to a cruise-in and late night car meet. It was 93 yesterday so I threw the ttop shades in and put Max AC on. I had to run some errands in town first and then a 68 mile drive to the first cruise-in. Everything went super smooth and the coolant temps never even made it to 220, except during heat-soak starts after two quick stops (gas and food). Mostly it ran 208-212 in traffic and about 198 on the highway in lockup cruise. But this is where things went south quickly...

There was the possibility of some races later and I wanted to make sure the tune was spot-on at 17 psi. On the interstate I dropped it into third at 70 and went into boost. It was lean above 15 psi so we start adding fuel. Basically it was fine at 50% throttle and 13 psi. 10.9-11.2. As soon as you went past 50% the AFR would go up and it would even detonate! I saw 16:1 at one point, and that was after adding tons of fuel. Injector duty cycle over 80%. I quickly realized an old problem had returned for a visit. It takes perfect conditions to happen, but it definitely does happen and one day it is going to cost me the engine. Here is how it plays out:

Three ways to get it to happen, all related to heat-soak. 1> Run the AC for over an hour in 90+ degree weather. 2> Dog the car consistently in the same weather. 3> Go to the drag strip and make 4 passes in 90 degree weather. The fifth pass will lean out. In all cases, get the car on the open road for 5 minutes in lockup, no boost, NO AC and a nice windy cruise speed and the problem is gone.

I have several threads about this problem from the past, where I thought the fuel pump was the cause. The problem was complicated by my use of a PLX Fluid Pressure module, which started reading backwards as fuel pressure increased - apparently the result of the injector pulses.

I have talked to numerous people with performance TPI combos and none have complained of my specific problem. I have done all kinds of things including upgrading to the 340 LPH fuel pump, split my fuel feed to send additional fueling through the cold-start injector fitting, running the fuel pump directly off the rear mount battery through a relay, changed the regulator, tried an external regulator and changed the fuel filter several times. Of course with this new engine, the fuel rails are also different.

I know for a fact it was lean this time, and not the spark blowing out, because of the detonation. I cannot believe the amount of detonation it tolerated yesterday. I never detonate my engines, much less at 17 psi. Yikes.

So about the only thing that is really common between the two setups would be the injectors. They are self cooling with the fuel going through them, but I do know the fuel itself is getting pretty warm. I checked it last week at 125 degrees, but no telling what it was after two hours of the engine running 200-210. Dang recirculation design.

I've also ALWAYS had hot-start issues with both engines. For the first couple of minutes after a hot start, it runs lean. Very lean. 17 and 18:1 lean at idle and low throttle. That is definitely a clue. Often, a couple of good revs will get it under control. Injectors are Precision Turbo 65 lb/hr pencil style Does anyone think I'd be better off with the stock style injectors (bigger diameter)?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like vapor lock Steve, the only real way to correct for it is to reduce temperatures around the fuel lines during extremely hot days. Maybe invest in a cowl induction hood, or another form of heat extracting hood, or side vents to reduce under hood temperatures on those very hot days...

ZZ3Astro

I've been doing some thinking on this. I've read in several places that the May fuel mixture has a boiling point in the 140F range. I'm not sure if that is E10 or E0. If it's a rating for E0 the point is even lower for the E10 I'm burning. Two weeks ago I measured the incoming fuel at the front fender well to be 125F after driving it conservatively (upon arrival for the torque converter swap). I'm about to go buy my own laser temp gun and take the Iroc on a long AC running drive in this 90 degree weather. I'm going to find out just how hot the fuel is getting and the tank itself as well.

My theory is that I need to dead-head the fuel rails and run an external regulator at the fender well. The downsides to this are:

1> No fuel rail purging for hot starts
2> No fuel rail 'cooling' from recirc fuel

Problem #1 can be resolved with a nitrous fuel solendoid that T's the factory return line off the rail back in to the return behind the external regulator. I can just set the external regulator a couple of PSI higher than the factory one. Then I can build a circuit to open the fuel solendoid when there is no oil pressure. Once oil pressure is up, the fuel rail return gets shut off. This is a bit of an extreme 'fix' but I'm mainlyjust pointing out there are options available.

Problem #2 is an unknown. LS engines are dead-head to the rail. It's probably not an issue at all. In fact, even with less flow, the rail would probably end up cooler with a fresh supply of 90 degree gasoline than a continuous flow of 125 to ??? gasoline.

So now I'm off to the store!

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

I had a vapor lock issue with my n/a setup, i ran a 10an line under the carpet and into the cowl vent(regulator moved to in there), then the line out. And in the engine compartment i wrapped the line with heat sleeve. It worked for me, but i went way overboard.

ZZ3Astro

I think I'm going to end up similar to that, except with the factory fuel lines. Still though, there is this hot start issue which I guess is cause by the excess heat of all of the turbo plumbing getting trapped under the hood. I'm seriously considering getting another Iroc hood, painting it black and chopping it up to make some functional hood vents. It would only go on for the warm months. I just don't like the idea of rain water getting on my intake, which hates water since its polished.

Here is the video from today's heat testing. The problem is worse than I thought, in that it happens at a lower temp and sticks around longer during cool down than I realized. Definitely gonna have to resolve this asap.

ZZ3Astro

I have plumbed in an Aeromotive external regulator. All I have left to do is leak check, set pressure and go driving. This will keep the recirc fuel out of the fuel rails and hopefully away from the heat. With any luck it will resolve the hot-lean issues that have plagued this car since these injectors went in.

Drag strip reopens (finally) this weekend so hoping to get a run there. I'd really like to see some mph progress, at least 97 would be really nice. Also expecting to see close to 2/10ths improvement with the converter - since I can now actually control wheel spin when launching. Expecting to see around a 7.55-7.6 on radials at 96.8 or better mph.

ZZ3Astro

Wow... bad results on tonight's trip. It all started good - the AC was on and temps came up to the usual. I made a few 16 psi blasts and no fueling problems whatsoever. Then we cruised about 30 miles at 55-65. Once we got into the civilized world again, I made a quick 16 psi blast in 2nd gear and then slowed down for a red light ahead. It changed to green before I had to stop, but I noticed the AFR suddenly leaned out after the blast. I pulled over and sure enough it was lean as heck. Into the 18:1 range in open loop. I adjusted the regulator 3/4 of a turn to get it back to a 14.6 idle!! I pinched the vacuum line and the regulator responded as it should. Drove another block and it was still lean, so I added another 1/2 turn. Now the AFR was normal for the rest of the drive. We stopped for dinner for 45 mins. No change in the AFR from the 'cooling' of being stopped. Drove the final 15 miles uneventfully.

Left the hood open for 1.5 hr at the cruise-in and inspected the regulator. It was so hot that you could only keep your hand on it for about 12-14 seconds. It cooled completely in 45 mins so we fired up the fuel pump. The regulator quickly got hot. So that means the fuel in the tank is STILL heating up, even though the recirc bypasses the fuel rails entirely. On the drive back, I ended up having to put almost all of the turns back in to get the AFR correct. This time it was in the other direction, as the regulator had cooled off AND we put 10 gallons of fuel in.

Right before I turned on my street, I did a quick 16 psi blast in 2nd and it went flat as it went towards 14:1 AFR from the desired 11.0. First time it has done that on the external regulator. I measured the FPR and lines at a consistent 135 deg F. Tank cap removed, I measured 111 deg F at the flap. Even worse than last week when it was recirc'ing through the fuel rails.

Could all of this heat be inducting into the fuel system just on the short run along the rail in the engine bay and the regulator itself? My next trick I guess is to remove the hood for a few days and see how it acts.

34blazer

take apart your FPR and check the seat, if its oblonged that fuel pressure will drop off after fully heat soaked.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I'm not sure if your heat test on the fuel system is valid. With higher fuel pressure the boiling point lowers.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

someone with similar issues:

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=579386

ZZ3Astro

Sail, thanks... I checked that thread and also found some others with other car types. No one seems to have conclusively solved this issue.

I'm on a mission to find out where the heat is getting in at. So far it has been a failed mission. Obviously dead-heading the rail didn't stop it. Today I completely wrapped the exposed fuel lines in the engine bay, and put a 1" thick fiberglass/foil board heat shield between the engine and hard lines. A short drive 3 miles away and back with AC on in 92 deg weather was enough to net a 13.0 AFR at 16 psi (from the normal 10.9-11.1). An improvement over the 17.0 I saw last week, but then it was only a 15 minute drive vs 2 hrs. Fuel tank filler neck measured 110 degrees with the cap removed. Tank itself was already up to 117 on the outside. I now have a remote temp sensor under the hood. On the opposite side of the heat shield from the engine, it peaked at 155 degrees right below the fuel line frame rail connection.

Next I am going to remove the hood for a few days.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i have the same exact issue on my twin turbo car it will stay running till i shut it off , once i shut it down it wont restart till the temp drops to around 110*

the other day when i shut it down and tried to restart it i measured 158* in the same place u measured urs

project89

iTrader: (1)

im thinking it might be time to get a flat rs hood and try 2 of these mounted in it

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

What are you running for pump/pumps? You could be moving too much fuel, if you have multiple pumps on at once?

project89

iTrader: (1)

im running 3 zr-1 vette pumps
2 on constantly and 3rd under boost of 14psi or more
each pump is 190lph i have base fp set to 55psi

34blazer

I had the exact same problems last year, different platform, but same exact symptoms. On my drive from Vegas to white sands NM, the engine would lean out to the point where BLMs were maxxed at 160, WBO2 indicated really lean. Stopped at the gas station to fill up, problem went away for about an hour, maybe less. Short trip driving the was little change if the temps were below 100* amb. Also heard the dreaded boiling fuel in the tank after a long cruise. On my way back from NM temps were 110*+ and the problem was worse. Popped the hood to check the fuel pressure and it was only at about 20 psi, should have been 39 psi. Cranked the FPR almost to dead head before the pressure started to rise. Refueled and fuel pressure went to 60psi until it heat soaked again. Finally limped it the rest of the way home and installed the stock FPR and took apart the BBK FPR, found the seat (machined into the body of the reg) had become oblonged. The seat is aluminum and the pintle is steel, no wonder. I had pics somewhere but lost them. Anyway, thats why I suggested taking apart the FPR.


On a side note, also found my CCP solenoid was stuck open. Fixed that and that helped cure the boiling fuel problem.

HTH

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

Could you wire one on at all times and set the other 2 to come on with any kind of positive pressure? Or wire one constant, one off a rpm box, say 2500rpms and one like you have it for high boost?

This way ur running 1 pump at cruise

Edit, sorry thought it was the op running 3 pumps

ZZ3Astro

Interesting find here at 3 am... I couldn't sleep and started thinking about the re-plumbing I did today. I had eliminated the Aeromotive regulator since it seemed to be contributing a totally new problem so I went back to the stock configuration during the heat shielding and wrapping effort. Well I started thinking about the manifold pressure reference line and why the car seemed to run hotter than before. Ooops. I left that line off! But the funny thing there is I initially did a couple of boost tests and the AFR was fine. I will admit they weren't full boost by any means. The other thing that surpises me is later when I 'still saw the problem', the AFR wasn't anywhere near as lean as it had been during previous heat soaked leanouts.

So I just plugged the reference line in and will test it tomorrow. I wish I had a working permanent fuel pressure gauge. It would be interesting to see just how much the pressure is dropping if a 16 psi fuel pressure deficit only brought the AFR up to 13.0.

Still, I want to compare underhood temps on some other vehicles NA. I have a diesel truck so I can't use that!

My fuel pump is a single Aeromotive Stealth 340 in-tank. It is rated at about 290 lph at 17 psi. Using some basic formulas, that should give me 25% more flow than I'd need to support 600 at the crank. I'm around 525 crank hp now. I do think a second pump would help though. I like the idea of redundancy as well, since I can wire it in a way that I could manually turn #2 on if #1 fails. And just having the extra capacity might be enough to get me past this issue. Or not.

I don't like the might part!

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Sorry if I missed it but have you ever checked your fuel pressure when it starts to act funny? Sometimes I tape the fuel pressure gauge to the front window when I go for a drive. Be interesting to see if something shows up there. Also I wonder if you could lay a bag of ice on the fuel lines inside the engine bay drivers side, see if that does something when the idle problem shows up.

ZZ3Astro

I need to borrow my friend's fuel pressure gauge and see how much it drops. The idle issue only showed up with the external regulator. With the factory regulator I don't have any problems below about 12 psi.

Drove it today with the reference line on (lol) and the problem still happens once it gets good an heat soaked.

Very bad day in the Iroc. My friend came over to borrow my engine hoist which sits in front of the Iroc. He moved the car (I was sick, in bed) and manage to run over a 1 gallon of used motor oil. This exploded up and outward, getting my driveway, garage and one half the car. The windows were down. My passenger seat is ruined. It also got on the original door panel which was in perfect condition. In a panic we used purple cleaner to break down the oil, ruining sponges and wrags with oil soaking and following up with dawn detergent. It wash washed about five times in a row and there is still oil residue on glass. Unfortunately the acid in the purple stuff found its way onto the polished intake and charge piping. So now it all looks like crap.

vortec350s10

Oh man... That really sucks about the oil explosion. Wow..... Sorry to hear that.

TwinTurboROC

Build is coming along nice, sorry to hear about the oil explosion disaster.

ZZ3Astro

I'm starting to lose faith on this thing. It seems the 7.7-7.9 barrier refuses to be broken in this car. Here are the possible causes:

1> Turbo manifold + stock driver side manifold could just be too restrictive to surpass ~500hp

2> Timing errors in Megasquirt reduces max spark advance I can run without detonation.

3> Stock 113 heads with mild pocket porting just too restrictive on the exhaust side


Each of these have a "fix it" price tag of about $1500. If I do #1 and 2 and still don't get the performance, I'm looking at heads. Once those go on I'll also want some intake improvements. Another $5000 into this gen 1 is just insane. The most likely cause would be #1, but that is a ton of work on top of the cost of the hardware. Others here are running 113 heads with good results and of course megasquirts.

So I'm looking at two options right now. Either do an LS conversion or sell the car and buy something LS based. the LS conversion I'm looking at the L76 which is used in the G8.

Option A is a 6 liter upgrade. I like the L76 with its 9.6:1 and LS3 heads/intake. Also considered the option of the 6 speed auto. Probably a tubular K member set up for LS engines. That would give plenty of room for turbo plumbing. This is a $10k project and the car will still be worth only about $14k after its done.

Option B is sell and add the funds to the down payment on a 2014 Stingray. This is a $65k project but the car will be worth 55k (damn drive off depreciation!)

Of course I could always stick with the TPI combo. It's close but the bar keeps moving when I do something to improve the performance. I feel like I'm coming home from work and going back to work. Instead of troubleshooting networks I'm troubleshooting the iroc. In other words, it has lost the thrill factor for me. My tuning laptop even blew up this month!!

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

1) Buy a $5 air pressure gauge and measure what the exh back pressure is before and after the turbo
2) Which Megasquirt are you running?
3) I don't see that heads being the problem.

I think the problem is high exhaust back pressure limiting HP and causing sensitivity to detonation.
Post the exh back pressure and go from there. I think that is your problem limiting HP.

ZZ3Astro

I already did this a couple of years ago.

Turbo inlet pressure at T4 flange was 48 psi at 21 pounds of boost. That measure is taken from the center of the opening of the flange. The port is drilled into the side of the flange, so it reflects the pressure from the turbo itself and not the manifold's restrictions.

Downpipe pressure was also measured during these tests. It was somewhere in the 2-3 psi range at 21 psi. I called Precision Turbo and they said to make sure the manifold flange matched the inlet of the turbo perfectly and the problem would be resolved, but I don't think he understood that the measure was taken above the base of the manifold flange.

JAYDUBB

Time for a 7675? S400sx3 75mm? GT45 76mm?

ZZ3Astro

That may well be the case. Once I build some headers I will be able to accommodate a larger turbo. Right now I just don't have the room for a larger compressor. I've decided to work on my traction issues for now since I have about .5 second of improvement available there. Since I'm only putting down around 440 rwhp, that puts the crank barely over 500. Precision said this turbo would support 600 no problem at 20 psi, so something still doesn't add up. They did prefer that I went 76 but this was the compromise turbo. The said forget about making anything more out of it unless it was made by higher boost alone.

So the logical next step, if I keep this engine combo, would be headers with a turbo relocation. That would give me room for a 76 or even larger. I just don't want to spend all of that money to end up in the same place I'm at.

ZZ3Astro

This is about to get real... just ordered QA1 dual adjustable rear shocks, Spohn SFC, Spohn crossmember with loop, Spohn LCARBs and a set of ET Streets. Now whether I make it to 6.99 on this engine or end up with LS doesn't matter, but I should have a good start on traction. Front struts will be addressed soon.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

thats a great start!