joker0907

wow i didnt realize that you had your own website for this thing. I absolutely love your build. I hope mine comes close to as good as what urs did.

ZZ3Astro

Thanks man, I try to put up as much as I can to help anyone else who is doing it.


Tonight the weather was finally a touch cooler than it has been so a friend and I went for a cruise. We drove for about an hour and a half but didn't really do much more than boost in one gear and let off. After I dropped him off I was gonna shoot some video of a 1-2-3 takeoff, but the transmission is slipping in second now. It actually shifts hard and then lets go about 1/3rd of the way through second. I know the transmission was pretty warm from the long ride, so it will probably work fine again tomorrow, but obviously I need to address that before more boost can be dialed in.

Looks like Friday will be the day for the fuel pump install. Hopefully I can borrow my friend's built 700r4 while I'm there. If not, I'm probably going to bring the boost back to about 10 until I get something together.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I hope you better luck than I did. My 700R4 started slipping second at 10 PSI on a fresh stock rebuild. It wasn't long before I lost all of second gear. It took the band out.

joker0907

Well I really hope that it isnt anything wrong id really love to see it get opened up!

ZZ3Astro

Another kinda crappy video but at least this one goes up to 80 mph. Unfortunately with second gear in bad shape, I had to do some fancy throttle work to get it locked in, but she pulls good once you get that out of the way.

Got with my buddy on the transmission... the one I was going to get was sold, but the guy decided to hold off on getting it so he could get his heads first, so now it's going to be mine afterall. Converter was ordered today (I don't even know what he got for me, a B&M Holeshot 2000 I believe) and he's already got a box full of Walbro 255's. So next week hopefully I'll put it on his lift and get to work.

Meanwhile.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9wzRV5dKkw

btw my tach reads too high!

joker0907

not too bad cant wait to see how it is with a good trans and fuel pump! My camaro isnt quite running right for some reason. Got a new massive oil leak and my timing is off again for some reason. I need a garage!!!!

ZZ3Astro

Was supposed to get some rack time to put in my transmission, stall and fuel pump on Friday, but my friend was having problems with a rear mount C5 he's doing so no go. It worked out good though because I was gonna swap it out, but he said just leave it with him Monday and he'll take care of it all for me. I wasn't looking forward to dropping the tank and free is a damn good price. It's good to have a friend with a shop that owes some favors haha. So Monday, maybe Tuesday it should be in.

Meanwhile, some new vids of me trying to finish off this tough azz 700R4. I think I'm going to keep this one rather than core it. I'd like to try my hands on building an automatic and there is plenty of info on what needs to be upgrade on these.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDWvP5flqFk


Drag strip video coming soon after the trans is working solid.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Your setup builds boost & torque pretty quickly. That means low TPS position and good boost. How are you going to get the 700R4 line pressure up at low TPS so you don't wipe out the 2-4 band and 3-4 clutches? That is the problem I had with my 700R4 and much less HP than you have. WOT is no problem, but low TPS and power is a problem.

Drac0nic

Just dropped the 700 in my 'Stro to change the flexplate out. that SUCKED. You are damn lucky. :P I don't think you're going to be disappointed after you get that stuff in there and really start putting it to it. I did my own 700 a long while back, I am debating if my current 305 is gonna grenade it or not. I need to get her fired though and see. The sun shell is stock which is the biggie. It's not as hard as a lot of people make it out to be. The other thing I will say to do is A)get a new TV cable to use with your setup B)check your old one for stretch. I think that's what killed my first tranny but it was in the 3-4 range that it showed up really badly too.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I gotta ask. With the cost of a beast sun shell being only $50 or so why isn't it in there?
If he gets the technical video 700R4 and/or the ATSG manual it should go pretty easy. I would put in the beast shell, both sprags, a shift kit, and BW Hi-E 3-4 clutches at a minimum.

ZZ3Astro

Good point about that partial throttle pressure not being up. I'm not sure what to do about that but it's true that the vast majority of my boost driving is only at part throttle I am notorious with this car for staying below the kick-down point in third gear, as the torque is extremely high at 3000 rpm and it pulls like crazy there. What I'm getting right now is a transmission setup that is identical to the one in my friend's 383 TPI single turbo in an 89 vette. I'm not sure what all he does to the internals but it has held up behind his running six second times in the 1/8th. However, he doesn't drive it much as he has plenty of other cars to drive. Most likely he won't charge me anything for the tranny either but I'll have to pick up the tab on the converter. I've always taken care of him on computer problems over the years and it's cool to see some people are willing to return favors like this.

I'm really looking at this as an in-between transmission and will be saving up to shell out some real money on something down the road. I'd really like a 4L60e so I can set my shift points exactly where I want them. I could also map up the line pressure at whatever throttle position that allows boost to start kicking in good.

If things go right I'm going to start buying parts to build a kick *** 700 or 4l60e. Not too crazy about shelling out money for a controller although I could use a stock LS computer.. would have to tie in to some sensors but wouldn't be too bad. The biggest problem would be finding room for the ECM if I went that way.. and more stupid wires.

Drac0nic

The problem was I was a kid in college without a job at the time I built it. I was lucky to get it running again tbh. I have a T400 sitting in the wings I will get a yoke for and a DS cut for if/when this one goes I think. That being said we shall see how she holds I am morbidly curious personally.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That is pretty much where I am at right now. I have 700R4 with burnt up 2-4 band and 3-4 clutch pack. I think it is all due to the part throttle boost driving I do which is alot. Yeah, lots of guys going fast with 700R4 that are built........but the mostly do WOT or nothing so they don't have this problem.

I can't find transmission builders to answer my question "What happens when a 700R4 has to hold 500 ft-lb of torque at less than 50% for an extended period"?

Instead of building 700R4 for my rigs I decided it is time to move on to the 4L60E and 4L80E series so I can pick my trans pressure vs TPS AND boost.
This will also allow me to pick shift points and have a toggle switch installed for "race" mode. That would consist of flipping a switch and having the trans shift at race RPM all while in drive. That way I can get my better half into driving at the track and seeing how much fun it is. The problem right now is that boost comes in so fast that they light the tires and seriously go into over-rev mode or just plain over-rev.

This 4L60E isn't a simple project for me. I have been reading a lot and Dana at Probuilt has been a great help. So far I have a little over $400 in parts without a torque converter. My next "kit" will probably come from Dana because the cost of a great kit like his seems expensive until you price out the parts. In the end his kits are a great deal because they also come with info you just don't get when making your own kit.

I am using the 1995 Chevy truck ECM. You can buy then for less than $50 and the connectors are about $20 or less.

At this point, I can't say if going with this trans and ECM is the right way too go but I know I have to do something. My gut feel is it will work out better but it has been a slow build so far. One good thing is it finally got me to learn about rebuilding transmissions which is something I have wondered about for a long time.

Drac0nic

Yeah the problem with the way the VB is calibrated is that even if you do start changing the part throttle line pressures chances are that you're going to mess with other things like the shift points doing such. As you said probably best to go to something with full electronic line pressure control. Actually as dumb as it sounds I think a tranny like a 350/400 with a vacuum modulator and a check valve would hold up better because they would react properly to it.

In regards to the box I thought it had been tried with low success to use an ECU as a tranny only setup. Heck it may have even been you talking about it. Have you had any success with it? If so I'd definitely be wanting to start to look into it. Thinking of something like a 6.5L chip.

ED:
on second thought 6.5L chip=bad idea I don't think they have a MAP which means no boost compensation. What about just running a 1 bar MAP and a check valve? I mean it doesn't really need to be aware there's boost just that it's not pulling a vacuum.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The TH350 and TH400 work fine with boost that way.

The only thing I have run with that ECM so far is with a manual trans. Once I get this 4L60E together it will be the test rig for that ECM, boost, and E-trans control. The nice part is it will easily do the 4L80E too.

I have not tried the dual ECM approach. I agree that the trans ECM would need a 1bar sensor. It would also need all the other info such as the TPS, DRP (dizzy), IAT, etc. I never looked into this because I personally don't like the two ECM stuff. It is one too many ECMs for me to tune. I think others have tried it and got it to work though.

I have a modified code version that handles boost, but still in early beta testing. I haven't driven that test rig enough yet to verify it is working as it should. Getting this 4L60E rebuilt and installed will give me a reason to try and finish it. Then the ultimate goal is to put on something with a N/A 400HP sbc, 88mm turbo, and 4L80E. This stuff always ending up taking years instead of months though.

Drac0nic

I don't really see it being an issue unless the ECUs have an impedance that significantly changes the voltages. I don't really think dual ECUs are any worse than a controller/ECU pair though either. At the same time it may be easier to start from scratch in a lot of ways and build something with a Pic, AVR or Motorola CPU and call it a day. Definitely would be cheaper than a prebuilt controller whoever is making those and selling em is making very good margin indeed.

Tell me about it. My engine sat in the back of my Astro for about 3 years before I finally put it in this year. I'm trying to get my MS to where I can fire it shortly, I need to put the front clip back on too. Sigh so goes it. I have 2 GN turbos and a set of 39s waiting for it after I get it running well N/A.

ZZ3Astro

This subject deserves its own thread! I've never actually put much thought into the issue of part throttle boost vs part throttle line pressure before reading these posts. The problem isn't really resolved by going electronic either, as the aftermarket solutions I've been research all rely on "Line Pressure vs TPS" tables and none seem to offer any kind of MAP based modifier or table. What did you expect for $500 to $800?

Does anyone know if the factory ECU tables reference MAP for the line pressure?

I was just commenting to my wife (on deaf ears I'm sure!) that the old TH350 modulator valve design is actually superior in some ways to TVS for boosted applications. She said then drill a %@# hole and put a modulator on the side of the 700R4 to make yourself feel better. It's nice to have an understanding wife. Seriously though, I wish I could remember how the line pressure circuit was laid out in the 700 when I did the shift improver kit. It seems someone could figure out a way of modulating the line pressure using a boost reference that could override the line pressure setting of the TVS. Perhaps put an FMU on the main pump with a boost reference LOL

ZZ3Astro

As a follow up, there is ONE thing that could work.. Not my kind of solutions but:

a full manual valve body
an old wastegate actuator attached to the TVS cable to control line pressure

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Continued here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...ml#post4636285

Now lets get back to some more intercooler pics and stuff. Have you ever logged boost vs rpm to see where it starts to make boost? I know it is down low, but I was wondering how low.

ZZ3Astro

Car has been down since Thursday when I left it at my friend's shop to do the transmission swap. Just got it running today with the new converter (B&M holeshot 2400, modded 700r4 and a Walbro 255 in-tank pump).

First problem was the builder used a corvette housing (no cross-member bolt holes).. no big deal as I was sending my transmission to him anyway, so he'll just build it and we'll swap it out in a few weeks. Actually a good thing because one thing this one didn't have was a beast sunshell. Meanwhile we fabbed up a mount off the tail shaft bolts so I'd be able to make a local camaro cruise and dragstrip thing this weekend.

Second problem was I noticed a vibration when we ran it up on the rack. I spun the tires to 80 mph and the vibration felt too fast to be the tires, almost like a driveshaft vibration, but we couldn't source it to anything but the tire balance. It shifted through the gears perfectly and solidly.

After getting fluids topped off and a leak check, it was time to take it home and start tuning with the new fuel delivery in place. I drove off planning to put about 40 miles on it to break in everything, although I did a couple of light stalls and it feels like I'll be able to build boost on it. I didn't want to push my luck until getting a few miles on it first.

Well I only made it about 1/2 mile away and started noticing the vibe as I got on a higher speed limit road. I put it in neutral to see if it went away and it did. Next I brought up the rpm in neutral and the vibe was bad enough at 3500 that you could see it in the mirrors and the windows rattled. I turned around to head back and found I'd now lost 3rd.. it wouldn't come out of 2nd unless you were idling. By the time I got almost back it's also making a strange high pitched noise.

I have the *worst* luck with 700R4 builds! The only thing I can think of that could shake the car this bad would be an out of balance converter. Not sure about the odd shifting behaviour though. We have another one of these converters in an identical 700r4, so now it's just a matter of dropping the tranny and trying the other one. I've got a feeling there is more to it than a bad converter though. If things keep going in this direction I'll be off the road for weeks until my original tranmission gets done.. and the track opens back up this weekend!

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

man that's some really rough luck. did you check to be sure that bushing and stuff in the tailshaft housing is ok? that's an optimistic solution to the problem anyway


hope things go better for you on the trans front. or you can comp out like me and run a th350 lol

ZZ3Astro

I really should do more logging.. I just checked and the last time I logged was back in the first part of June.

At that time I had the MAT sensor in free air behind the headlight. It was 7:30pm and the ambient air was 91. It looks like my boost at that time was limited to 8.8 psi. This was before the intercooler and more agressive spark timing since I was seeing MAT temps exceeding 170 at the top of a run at full boost.

On these tests it passes 100 kpa at 3100-3250 rpm and reaches full boost at 3700-3800 rpm.

My last dyno run in March passed 100 kpa at 2402 rpm and reached 164 kpa (9.2 psi) at 3250 rpm and was already at 6 psi by 3000 rpm.

Haven't logged the intercooler yet.. really didn't want to bother putting much effort into it knowing I had the fuel pump and converter going in soon. Should start getting interesting in the next few weeks.

ZZ3Astro

Definitely isn't that.. it shakes rattles and rolls in park. Actually it *did* roll in park.. it doesn't want to fully engage in park now. Something bad has happened me thinks.

Can't go for the th350 no thanks, been there too many times already in the past... I'll get something working soon enough. I'm just worried the converter problem has gotten into the tranny already. Those front pumps don't like vibration very much.

joker0907

awww man when i saw you had updates i was so excited. Now i see this it just makes me sad . Hopefully you figure a way to get it fixed. Could always go manual

iroc stangs

not to thread jack or anything, but im kinda intrested in this. Honestly would it be an good idea to install an decent turbo on my 127k mile 305tpi? What would you say the adverage price would be for decent parts? And is installing an medicore or an hard job? Thanks.

ZZ3Astro

I think it would be a great idea

However it is a relatively hard job to bring all of this together and make it all work. I get this question constantly and have created a page on my site that breaks down the basic costs of my single turbo setup. Hope it helps:

http://www.mentalsocket.com/Iroc87//turbo2.html

iroc stangs

thanks much appreciated, i'll hold off for now as i just have basic hand tools, cant risk an blow up, dont have much $$$ etc. but i would still like to do this sometime and i think it would be an great way to get decent power from an small motor if you know your way around cars and what not. Good luck on the rest of her!

ZZ3Astro

Some good news out of all this mess. Another third genner down the coast from me had a Vigilante 9.5" converter, 1997 4L60e, beast sunshell (new in box) and Z-Pack (new also) and I picked it up for $450. Now I'll have to send the converter in for re-stalling which will cost about $275 round trip, but for the cost of a new converter I end up with the sunshell, z-pack and a 4L60e core. This 4L60e is slipping second, but I find it hard to believe the original owner would have spent the money for a vigilante without modding the tranny so I'm hoping to find a corvette servo in there at least.

I'm actually planning to go 4L60e some day (when I can afford a controller - perhaps I'll go the microsquirt or GPIO board) so I can put the built 700 guts into this case later.

The rest of my build parts will come from Pro Built Automatics (I'm going with the full 630 hp kit) so hopefully I'll be set for the next year or three.

ericjon262

I know the trans had been rebuilt at one point, not sure what exactly had been done to it though(could have been a stock rebuild could have been performance). i got it in the exact same condition you did. the guy I bought the parts car from told me 4th slipped not second. Let me know how everything works out.

ZZ3Astro

Will do Eric.. I'm going to open it up and see what's inside soon. It's gonna be my practice transmission before I open my 700... that's IF I talk myself into trying this myself

I have too many other things going on (specifically a major remodeling of the garage at this moment) not to mention my truck being tied up in the body shop. The garage project started as a simple planned painting of the walls and floor and has evolved into scraping the whole ceiling to be refinished - it was falling off in pieces onto our cars. This is the mess I have in there as of today after scraping all weekend:

ZZ3Astro

Ok... it's been a loooonnnnnng three and a half weeks since that last post. Garage ceiling is done, I rebuilt the transmission myself with parts from Dana at Pro Built. The new converter rocks (thanks Eric!) and everything is getting back to normal. The only issue I'm having is I didn't have a stock governor to put back in, so I had to use the modded one I had originally. This is causing a very late WOT shift and a touchy kick-down, but I've got a stock governor now to put in it tomorrow. The transmission's shifts are just amazing. Dana knows his stuff with these mods for sure!

After putting about 50 miles on it last night, and another 60 today, we took it out tonight to do some tuning. There have been a number of issues with the tune that I haven't addressed because I wanted to wait until I got the fuel pump in. Now that it is in, all of the tune in boost is way too rich. So I put my wife in the passenger seat and let her do her thing with the tuning. We're back in business and tonight we finally fixed the tip-in issues I've had for months.

I'm tempted to shoot for 15 psi before I go to the track, but I'd almost just like to see what it will do now. Probably I will put a 15 psi tune in it, but then put tonight's tune back in for the first few passes. If I can't get where I want with that, I'll throw the 15 in and see what happens. This is assuming, of course, that I can get my WOT shifts right. I didn't seem to have a problem when I made the following video, but I was holding the camera so I was probably not truly WOT at the time.

Governor goes in tomorrow and we'll know for sure!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrsSPPMcFhM

Drac0nic

GL at the track! I would probably leave it be with the powertrain updates you're probably going to see better times too. When I had my van's 700 it felt a little sloppy but not like it was really having problems and putting hy-tran in it gained me .2 on my G-tech. My point being that the trans could have been holding you back easily.

ZZ3Astro

Definitely the trans was slowing me, between the slipping shifts and the stock converter I know I will pick up a few 10ths, plus now I'm running more boost and the intercooler.

Unfortunately, changing the governor out this morning did not resolve the no WOT shift issue. I'm afraid something is wrong in the wrong in the valve body. May have to drop it and check everything. No idea what this valve body came out of so I might have to work with Dana to see if the shift valves are way off from what I need. I'm getting no WOT shift at 5800 and I can't think of anything with a 700 in it that would have shifted that high. My rev limiter won't let me turn any harder so I end up stuck in first unless I let off the gas a bit whether in D or manually shifting. Dang.

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

I know you're not going to like this solution, but when I had that happen once I let the throttle valve cable loose a little bit so it never got pulled to the max and it brought my shift points down.

ericjon262

I'm glad to hear the converter is working out, did you get it re-pitched? I know TCI makes a "constant pressure" valvebody, but most of the transmission guys I know don't like it, they say the shifts are always hard. I don't like playing with the TV cable to get shift points lower, alot of transmissions have been burned that way.

Drac0nic

Could be a stuck valve somewhere. Do you know what springs are in your governor(s)? If you have one with heavier weights and springs that's your best bet is to combine them. My transgo kit came with several springs in it depending on the application. The 'vette springs were the most aggressive. If you get a governor out of a 2.8 V6 it will shift aggressively though. The last thing is it could be high line pressure. If it's excessive it will do something like that. If you bought the stuff from Pro Built I'd give him a call. He will take care of you I've talked with him in the past.

ZZ3Astro

Good news, mostly.. I put in my other governor which has heavier weights with the springs from my old governor and I now have WOT shifts. 1-2 just barely makes it though so I've got to find my spare springs around here somewhere. Also the third gear part throttle kickdown is too aggressive, so I'll have to change out my shift valves. I have another spare 88-up valve body so hopefully the shift valves in it will be the right ones. Of course when I do that, I'll probably need my old governor back in there.

Shift in OD and gas pedal to the floor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFtZGYEDC50

All of this silly springs and valves crap makes me want to get that 4L60e ready to go. I think I'm going to order another Pro-Street kit from Dana and a new reverse input drum and build the 4L60e so it will be ready to go when I build my controller. Then I'll have the old 700R4 as a backup trans!

UR50SLO

iTrader: (1)

It really is amazing what a intercooler does.

I turbocharged my 89Nissan Maxima non IC on 6-7psi in the morning it'd feel great.. then when it got warm outside it'd be doggy. I put a stock GN IC up in front of the radiator (small front mount) and it changed everything. I was able to run 12psi on 93 and the car went 13.40@108mph with the stock 200,000mi 3.0L V6.

Great job on the TPI.. It'd be interesting to see how the torque curve changes when blowing air in the TPI as it was so tuned for mid to low end from the factory.
~Scott

ZZ3Astro

The torque curve we've seen on the dyno seems to mirror the n/a tpi curve.. the boost just enhances the torque a whole bunch

So we did a 14 psi tune and drove around for an hour or so trying that out. It feels a bit faster at 14 than 11 but I started feeling a bit guilty about a stock tpi running like that and put the 11 psi tune back in. May go to the track tomorrow and you can bet I'll drag out the 14 psi tune for at least one pass! Seriously though, I don't want to push it too hard as I'd like to get my paint and interior finished before I go into the engine. But, if it does blow, oh well!

Steve

ZZ3Astro

Track results:

Best overall 8.03 @86.66 on a 1.80 sixty foot! Soo close to 7's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmD8j_mv5gY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn66egG2nTo


I did run into some issues today, specifically with the boost control on the Megasquirt. Wish I could figure it out, I thought I had it nailed but my 14 psi tune wouldn't make any more boost than the 12 psi time (which incidentally was only making 10.5 to 11 psi). So while I didn't make my highly desired 7.9's, I did make 8.0 and I did it with less boost than I was planning on using.

7's are definitely here for the taking! Who needs an LS1 anyway or even sticky tires for that matter! LOL

UR50SLO

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how much more you could pick up with a LT1 intake swap? Seems like that TPI is limiting your mid-upper RPM power.

I see some good potential there for sure... Every car go's through a evolution and changes for the better as it go's along... Keep working at it!!!
~Scott

ZZ3Astro

Well that same logic could be applied to an LS swap, but that is totally what this car is not about. It will be stock TPI to the day I get rid of it. I love the reaction at the drag strip when people come over to see what's making that quiet car go down the strip so good and they see a TPI intake. Now I might consider some internal intake mods (I've already cleaned up some casting in the plenum behind the throttle body) such as a ported lower, but I'm really trying to stay purist on this. I want it to look, sound and drive stock until you push the gas.

As for intake swaps, my ultimate goal is to put this car in the high 6's 1/8 mile. I'd be pretty content with anything sub 7.30's too though. My friend has a stock tpi intake on a 383 with a turbo and ran high 6's with low-mid 6 MPH. All you need is boost and patience!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

86.6mph is trapping fairly well. higher than my bolt on LS1 99 trans am. I went 85 mph last time out. Should be around 340whp on that car so I'd figure you'd be in that range too depending on how heavy the car is. I know 4th gen TA's arent light.

BANDITSBC

"All you need is boost and patience!"

WORDS TO LIVE BY!!! can i use that?

i think i hear song lyrics.. all you need is boost..

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That sounds about right. My stock lame-cammed (1986) TPI 305ci makes around 300 rwhp at 10 PSI w/ the intercooler.

You built your 700R4 a lot faster than I built my 4L60E. I think we both just did our first trans rebuild. Dana gives some great advice. I don't have the 4L60E in yet, but I hear you about dropping the pan to change springs for shift feel. Hopefully, the e-trans will make it easier. I still messed with the springs when I did the rebuild so I have a feeling I might be into the VB again e-trans or not.

Nice job on the build. I think you are at a cross roads at this point and the only way to go is up the boost and get those 7s.

ZZ3Astro

Sure thing - Just make sure you fit "Black Iroc" in that song somewhere too

Junkcltr - I am not looking forward to valve body work under the car. It's not fun draining these things and then having it drip all over you! But a little vaseline to hold the check ***** in place and all is well. Also I might be able to get the shift valves out without dropping the VB since I just had them all out for cleaning up. I've got a roll pin remover that usually works without having to push them out from behind.

Next time I build a 700R4 it's gonna start as an 88-up. Was not fun tracking down a used VB and when I did there was no way to know what it came out of, hence the shift valve issue.

I assume in the 4L60e there are some VB mods, but since shift points and line pressure are controlled electronically it's probably a bolt in and go affair. Definitely next on the big item list for me, right after a paint job and new seat covers!

steve

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

Now that I think about it, you are probably right around what you should be. I ran my 305 a couple times with the big turbo, and on 12.5psi it ran a 12.2 1/4-mile which is about what you would've ran if you pulled a 1.6 60' time like mine did. This 305 is capable of 14.4's without boost.

ZZ3Astro

Breaking news... After wiring up my lockup converter circuit and trying to get my MS boost control working, I noticed a sound coming from the engine. I've actually been thinking I was hearing something for a few days or more, but I've finally confirmed a tapping sound. It sounds like a valve train noise in pitch, but I think it's going at crank speed. It's not bad but is concerning of course. There is always the chance that one of my torque converter bolts is loose - will check that shortly.

I was planning to make a 90 mile drive to another dragstrip tonight in search of my 7's, along with a video showing the numbers on the board since our local strip can't seem to keep that working. Then I'd stay in Pensacola and make a mini-trip out of it. I have 150 mile towing coverage but I'd rather not deal with that, so unless I find a loose bolt I guess that trip is cancelled for now!

My goal was to see 20+ mpg, run at least 7.99 and make it the whole 200+ miles with no issues. Might have to wait until the new engine, then do the same trip except run 7.30's instead! >

ericjon262

do you have anything lined up yet for a new motor? GEN 1 still or are you thinking of "updating"?

Drac0nic

Cracked flex plate.