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I bought this Paxton SN92 used and it is a few years old. It has never been rebuilt and has made a world of a difference for performance on my car.
Sometimes when I'm driving it sounds like it changes the "whine" sound. Like if I take it easy on the car the whine isn't really that loud. But if I floor it for a few seconds, then start driving normal again....it seems as if the whine gets a little louder for the rest of the day. Maybe it is just in my head or what but I don't know. My car still feels as fast. Is the noise changing slightly a sign of internal wear??
Any ideas????
Also, one other thing I've been wondering...is there a cool down period for blowers like turbo owners do? or can i just shut the car off?
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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
Paxton SN92 polished kit, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5200rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,stock chip,Ford SVO 24# injectors,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.
[This message has been edited by theformula (edited March 08, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by theformula (edited March 08, 2001).]
Ooooooooo. This is not good. Both my rebuilds were necessary after I started hearing a change in pitch. FYI, I was offered by Paxton a $550 rebuild with a one month warranty or a completely new unit for $800 with a six month warranty.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by theformula: Guys,during the time period you heard the "pitch" change, did you lose boost or performance?</font>
I can't answer your question directly. I didn't want to grenade the blower. Not that it would, but I didn't want to take any chances with such a high dollar piece. I immediately removed it and mailed it to Paxton.
Willie
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited March 09, 2001).]
My question to you is when you are driving normal, do you hammer on the trottle, then let off quickly? If so, I beleive that what you are hearing is the boost psi pushing on the trottle blades. I have a paxton sn2000 and i notice a louder whine if i am on the throttle and quickly get off of it ( not a good thing to do ). Anyway, if the wine changes in anyother circumstance, i would call paxton. Willie and Gudio are well educated in this area and have helped me out many of times! If you call paxton, ask for rick...good guy although he drives a mustang
not trying to be a smart alec or anything, blowers are new to me soo.....is that not what the valve is that goes between the exhust of the blower & the intake of the blower is for? when you are under boost & let go of the throttle the pressure wants to go somewhere. if that valve is there it ports this pressure back into the intake of the blower (or to ambient, but I think that makes a whooshing sound, that is pretty undesireable).
BW
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Bob Wooten
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
I have no idea what valve you are speaking of?? The exhaust side of the blower pushes air into the intake through the throttle body. The trottle body has two 48mm blades that work like the blades on a carb. If you do not have a bypass valve on the exhaust side of the supercharger, all of that psi has to go somewhere. On my car, I do not have a valve so if i hammer on the throttle and then suddenly let off i get a loud whistle. I would not suggest doing this since it is very possible to bend the throttle blades! Hope that clears up any confusion?
What Bob is talking about is a by-pass valve that is used on the ATI procharger systems, It is a valve that works off of vacuum, as long as vacuum is present the valve is open, this valve is plumbed in, between the outlet of the supercharger and the intake of the supercharger, this is to keep the supercharger from surging when the throttle plates are closed.
Yes, i realize that is what he was speaking of and i was trying to say was that if you do not have the valve, and you thump on the throttle then let off, you will get a whinning sound. Not a good thing to do. That will cause a louder whinne.
Man I have to get in on this. I put a Paxton SN93 unit on my show truck www.bharris.org/92GMC and changed the oil religously at 3k or less and it blewup about once a year at about 10k miles. I never pushed it above 5k rpms. I even had an oil cooler on it once until it blew up and melted down the external pump on the way to a show . Blew burn trans fluid all over the hood. As far as performance gains. You only get boost from about 2500 up. No bottom end power at all. I sold my last Paxton unit (since they covered every other one under warranty) off and I have been in the process of building my 350 5 speed to achieve the same horsepower but with a much better power curve. Just blowing off a little steam. I wouldn't have another paxton if you give it too me.
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91 Camaro RS 5.0L Black Convertible 700R4. Owned 5 months bought from 1 owner girl. Working on that stock part.
** Added so far **
*GM Wonderbar
*Alston SFC
So, sounds like the blow off valve or bypass valve is a good idea on a street car where you are going to be on & off the throttle with regularity. I have seen it on Tubos, ATI's & on the vortech (water to air aftercooled, LS1) & wondered.
thanks
BW
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Bob Wooten
71 Camaro, 91 EFI
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
BLowoff valve is good for applications 9lbs or more.The boost needs to be redirected after you let off the gas after a run,the boost still left in the intake track for that split second or so can bend the throttle blades and put uneeded backpressure on the supercharger impeller.thats why they recommend serpintine on the street over cogged because if you are not running a blow off valve or the like the sepintine belt will slip when pressure spikes on the impeller occur after a boosted run and you close the throttle.On cogged you will eventually hurt the blower or rip the teeth off the belt.On the Paxton making noise,my friend owned one,he was told by Paxton after the rebuild to use only B&M trick shift and use the oil cooler.Hte oil cooler he got wiht his kit is tiny,I would get the biggest tranny cooler you can fit,the B&Ms are good sturdy units.And change the oil after everytime you race it,he was told this by Paxton,so I guess they mean if you get on it down your street you will ned to change it every block .I would change it every 2000,no more and get a bigger oil cooler,and use the Trick Shift.I dont want to ruin your day ,but if the oportunity presents itself I would definatly go with another supercharger.Reason being Paxton knows this design is flawed yet they still sell it,but they wont tell you that.I couldnt believe what they told my friend when they were explaining the warrenty to him after hi first rebuild.Told him it is warrented for 6 months and warrenty is void if you race the car.LOL,what the hell do you buy a blower for.
ROFLOL (til my wife comes in & tells me to be quiet the kids are sleeping). I suppose that i ought not to mount those MT ET streets either. if i drive the car with them on the car i might wear out the rubber on them & thus void the warranty on them as well.
now there is a good idea, spend $3K on a blower setup & put it onto the car & have all my friends come over & look @ how fast the car could be if i drove it.
BW
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Bob Wooten
71 Camaro, 91 EFI
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
You could use any of these 3.The tube type coolers in my opinion are crap and the fluid doesnt stay in there long enough tp cool off any.I used this one on my fully built tranny with a 2800 stall vigilante and my tranny ran a rock steady 160 degrees.130-70268 B&M # from Jegs.It goes for $45 and you just slip your hose ends on the ends and use hose clamps,pretty easy.The 70264 is the most heavy duty one you can buy with the installation hardware.Its 11" long by 6"tall by 1.5" thick.The one I use is .75 thick and 7.5 tall.If you have space issues the 70264 will be the best,but remember you will have to add a bit more oil to your system to compensate,and use trick shift.Go to jegs and punch in B&M in the search and look for tranny coolers,this should help you out.I think the falures are attributed to high fluid temps,he rinky dink cooler they give you is crap,They say the cooler you can get your tranny oil the longer the tranny will live,Im sure this applies to the blower too,I bet since the blower gets so dam hot,so hot you can burn your hand on it,the fluid literally breaks down and cannot cool the head unit,if you have headers and the like in the bay it will radiate a lot of heat and the head unit will soak it all right up.Try this out it might be the ticket to making your Paxton live longer.
Hello, I had a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am, GTA 350 automatic car was fully built with every Bolton - every single Bolton that came from SLP(upper Plenum, runners, exhaust, etc.) and Arizona, speed and marine - now for the Paxton supercharger you need to change the oil in the Paxton supercharger every 10,000 miles it has a special oil in it that actually helps the supercharger grip. It’s actually called gripping fluid or something like that. It’s a red fluid that needs to be swapped if you do not do this, the supercharger will fail and also when using this, it will increase boost by one or 2 pounds. Also, the check valve you were talking about that is attached to the manifold is a Hobbs switch. The Hobbs switch is activated at full throttle and is connected to your windshield washer reservoir which should hold alcohol or rubbing alcohol when you are racing the car, henceforth these one-way red check valves at full throttle with the windshield washer pump installed with the Paxton. Supercharger will feed alcohol into the intake of your supercharger elbow at full throttle giving you an extra 20 to 40 hp at full boost , making the charge more dense - I have done a lot of racing with this car 25+ years ago and I still have my very fond memories and this is how it serves. I hope this helps.. 👍🏼
Hello, I had a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am, GTA 350 automatic car was fully built with every Bolton - every single Bolton that came from SLP(upper Plenum, runners, exhaust, etc.) and Arizona, speed and marine - now for the Paxton supercharger you need to change the oil in the Paxton supercharger every 10,000 miles it has a special oil in it that actually helps the supercharger grip. It’s actually called gripping fluid or something like that. It’s a red fluid that needs to be swapped if you do not do this, the supercharger will fail and also when using this, it will increase boost by one or 2 pounds. Also, the check valve you were talking about that is attached to the manifold is a Hobbs switch. The Hobbs switch is activated at full throttle and is connected to your windshield washer reservoir which should hold alcohol or rubbing alcohol when you are racing the car, henceforth these one-way red check valves at full throttle with the windshield washer pump installed with the Paxton. Supercharger will feed alcohol into the intake of your supercharger elbow at full throttle giving you an extra 20 to 40 hp at full boost , making the charge more dense - I have done a lot of racing with this car 25+ years ago and I still have my very fond memories and this is how it serves. I hope this helps.. 👍🏼
REALLY !!!!! - THIS WAS BACK IN1995 - I HAD THE TRI BELT SYSTEM - so do not even begin to tell me it’s not true, because I have pictures and more than that to prove it! - In 1988 when the L 98 came out with the serpentine belt set up it changed from the 3 Tiny belt setup - and as a matter of fact, the name of the oil used in Paxton was called “PAXATRAC” - Or such so ? Believe what you want I did this and I have proof.- I have many more pictures of the install and I know it completely by heart just because you have not done it and you do not have the experience. Don’t tell me I’m incorrect I was racing F bodies and Grand Nationals/ Turbo T’s when you were probably still in elementary school! - No Offence !- I have many more pictures. I can look and take better pictures of what I have and show you if you would like….
REALLY !!!!! - THIS WAS BACK IN1995 - I HAD THE TRI BELT SYSTEM - so do not even begin to tell me it’s not true, because I have pictures and more than that to prove it! - In 1988 when the L 98 came out with the serpentine belt set up it changed from the 3 Tiny belt setup - and as a matter of fact, the name of the oil used in Paxton was called “PAXATRAC” - Or such so ? Believe what you want I did this and I have proof.- I have many more pictures of the install and I know it completely by heart just because you have not done it and you do not have the experience. Don’t tell me I’m incorrect I was racing F bodies and Grand Nationals/ Turbo T’s when you were probably still in elementary school! - No Offence !- I have many more pictures. I can look and take better pictures of what I have and show you if you would like….
all i will say is i have been in this longer than you have and that paxton water injection did not work and you did not gain 20 hp like you said and they have tried many different fluids and the only one that has ever worked was motorcraft type f fluid.
all i will say is i have been in this longer than you have and that paxton water injection did not work and you did not gain 20 hp like you said and they have tried many different fluids and the only one that has ever worked was motorcraft type f fluid.
- Yes your not wrong abt fluid - F was the Replacement- but Paxton had their own fluid also - The Car vehicle definitely gained power once I filled the “reservoir” - With Alcohol, - At WOT the Hobbs switch would power/(turn on) the external pump for the Fluid in the W/Washer reservoir. That’s all . Now I Currently drive a F85 X5M Pushing 770 Awhp so - 🤷🏻♂️. - Just added my comments. - GLW, All . 👍🏼 - Was a nice trip down memory lane tho .
03-08-2001, 10:02 PM
.I would change it every 2000,no more and get a bigger oil cooler,and use the Trick Shift.I dont want to ruin your day ,but if the oportunity presents itself I would definatly go with another supercharger.Reason being Paxton knows this design is flawed yet they still sell it,but they wont tell you that.I couldnt believe what they told my friend when they were explaining the warrenty to him after hi first rebuild.Told him it is warrented for 6 months and warrenty is void if you race the car.LOL,what the hell do you buy a blower for. 
