askulte

Good news - After getting learning the line, I ran a 1:01 on Pocono North, which was good enough for the 2nd fastest time of the day (on 4 year old Kumhos). The engine pulls great, and I was short shifting on the NASCAR bend, since the g-forces made reaching down for the shift **** challenging (I have new respect for the oval track drivers now!). The indicated speed before turning into the infield was 145, but I'm sure that's a bit high. Other news is that the oil temps were off the gauge (they were at 280 degF with the old L98 at 5psi, and now up to about 340 when I noticed, backed it down for a lap, and brought it right back to 300 or so, and is about 240 when highway cruising). Water temps were just fine at 240 degF. The oil cooler is on the workbench, ready for installation. The blow off valve is a bit small, as I blew off the intake piping the first session out (new TIAL sitting on the shelf, waiting to get welded on). I've got nasty brake hop at the hairpin, and right hander, which will get fixed with a rear proportioning valve inline. The car oversteers a bit with the 24mm rear bar and 175 lb springs (950 front/36mm hollow), so I'll swap in a smaller bar for next time.

It's nice to finally have it running!

BBSDesigns

Good going Andris
This is just the kind of story I need to hear. I am getting more and more anxious into finishing my new project and go road racing with it.
I just decided that I will be using the current 125,000mi L98 engine on the GTA and twin turbo it until it runs out of breath and in the mean time build the new engine in the free time left. I already installed the T56 into the '89 GTA and when I get another hours to spend I will be installing the headers with the turbos.

Andris, couple of questions; What parts did you use to run a two piece oil main seal engine block with a six speed T56? Did the '93-'97 flywheel fit into the two piece crankshaft? Just need to know because I am concidering buying a Dart two piece oil seal engine block.

Thank's
Edgardo

ps; Keep us informed on the TTZ28 progress.

CrazyHawaiian

Sounds like a lot of fun! Get any video/pics?

askulte

Mike Davis recorded the 2nd and the 4th session (2nd is more fun to watch, I got squirrely turning onto the NASCAR banks, nice little slide/counter steer to keep it together). You might need to download a Ligos codec (I used the Klite mega codec pack) to watch the video).

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/pocono040701/

Edgardo - The only change I had to do from the single piece RMS L98 block to the 2 piece RMS Dart block was to change the flywheel. I'm running a street twin, so everything was interchangeable. Centerforce makes a 2 piece rms flywheel to run with your LT1 T56 clutch, so you're good to go there. You can't retrofit, since the crank bolt pattern is different.

Andris

BBSDesigns

Do you know how much that Centerforce flywheel weights? Or did you compare it with the stock T56 flywheel?

askulte

Edgardo,
No idea on the CF weight. I have the billet alum street twin, which weighs about the same as a stock LT1 steel flywheel/pressure plate setup.

Andris

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

The whole aluminum street twin assembly weighs 35#, the stock LT1 style assembly weighs 38# and the steel street twin assembly weighs 50#. Skip the centerforce, they rarely work right, especially not in this application.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Cool Andris! I'd like to make some time to stop by and take a look at it when we come up to CT around the holidays if you can fit me in, I'd like to check that thing out.


Ed

askulte

Mark - We were just talking about using the centerforce 2 piece RMS retrofit flywheel, so you can run the LT1 clutch & T56 w/ the 2 piece RMS block & crank. I don't think Edgardo was thinking about running a CF clutch assembly <shrug>, since he just needs a way to mate the LT1 T56 to the 2 piece rms block. Thanks for the accurate weights.

Ed - You're welcome any time!

Andris