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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
The cam specs I have are .560 .560 lift with 1.6 roller rockers which we used, 280 280 duration at .006 219 219 at .050 and 112 lobe separation
Our heads were done by tpis and flow 250 cfm
The shop that put this together is reputable and said its fast! We shall see breaking in the rear now then we can dyno it and take it to the track maybe in that order or we might see what the slips say...
Isn't that something regards keeping the cam data quiet! I've never come across a Lingenfelter grind, didn't even know he did them.
Guessing hes likely got 64cc heads and that may unlock the deck height. IF it was decked like the ones I've done he'd be at 10.2 : 1 however 9.8 : 1 is more common with a stock block. Ergo shot in the dark I'd say he's still .025 down the hole. Maybe IF we had accurate cam data we could play with it.
Thanks for jumping in. I do really think dynamic comp is more important on a street/strip car than any other engine. If you drive it too the track......
I was looking for those specs earlier and couldn't find them. Thanks hemi.
I have no doubt it'll be a stout engine. At 250 CFM it's very similar in flow to my ported RHS heads. I've run simulations and read reports that yield HP well north of 450. At 250 CFM, 500 HP is attainable with an all out effort (something I may be inclined to do). That means cam timing into mid 230's. Maybe more.
Looking forward to your track results. I hope you have good tires!!
113 heads are 58 cc? If so then his comp ratio has factored in the aluminum. He might actually be at 10.6 or so however we all know aluminum allows for more. It does sound like a fun toy and I think he'll hit his goals. Hes done all the right stuff to the power train.
113 heads are 58 cc? If so then his comp ratio has factored in the aluminum. He might actually be at 10.6 or so however we all know aluminum allows for more. It does sound like a fun toy and I think he'll hit his goals. Hes done all the right stuff to the power train.
Car has a built 700r4 with a 2600 stall convertor 9.5 inch billet pression convertor, 3 inch chrome moly driveshaft, s60 dana rear from strange 3.54 gears, all umi suspension relocated torque arm tires will be MT drag radials ET SS car is running a Holley hp efi system also.. first performance intake and the heads are 58cc but I told them I wanted compression 9:8.1 with the 58cc heads
.. it's hard driving it knowing you have to behave lol
I know the feeling in a "sort of" way. I know my engine is wounded but it still starts and runs great. Sounded excellent when I fired it up to move it out of the way the other day. But I KNOW that if I drive it, something's gonna let go and make whatever the problem is (still undetermined due to time constraints) a lot worse.
So I behave.
I know the feeling in a "sort of" way. I know my engine is wounded but it still starts and runs great. Sounded excellent when I fired it up to move it out of the way the other day. But I KNOW that if I drive it, something's gonna let go and make whatever the problem is (still undetermined due to time constraints) a lot worse.
So I behave.
What happened to it? Do you have to pull it apart?
Not sure exactly. It developed a very slight high RPM misfire. Like one miss at 6500. That became gradually worse. Then a fragment in the oil which looked remarkably like the edge of a cam lobe.
I suspect I lost the cam thrust button (aftermarket roller). The cam walked forward letting a lifter ride on the edge. Why the misfire I can't say for certain but the plan is to pull the engine this fall. It's long overdue for a shortblock refresh anyway. And now possibly more. I may have exceeded the limits of the valvetrain. Shifting at 6500-6700 can do that with parts that aren't necessarily the freshest.
And while I'm in there, might as well put in a stroker crank and ....well you know how that goes.
Not sure exactly. It developed a very slight high RPM misfire. Like one miss at 6500. That became gradually worse. Then a fragment in the oil which looked remarkably like the edge of a cam lobe.
I suspect I lost the cam thrust button (aftermarket roller). The cam walked forward letting a lifter ride on the edge. Why the misfire I can't say for certain but the plan is to pull the engine this fall. It's long overdue for a shortblock refresh anyway. And now possibly more. I may have exceeded the limits of the valvetrain. Shifting at 6500-6700 can do that with parts that aren't necessarily the freshest.
And while I'm in there, might as well put in a stroker crank and ....well you know how that goes.
Yes I do..lol ours isnt a full out race motor it is a 4 bolt main fully forged motor tho..with some good parts I really dont plan on super high shifts going to take it easy to find its sweet spot im thinking 5800 might be the spot... the shop that built it says it will rev I just dont like putting the extra strain on the drive train if shifting lower will net good ETs he does seem to have a good timing map on the tune I showed someone his setting they said it's to aggressive..car seems fine just told me to use 93 octane which I do anyways. I wonder if it the cam allowing the aggressive timing?
The timing I see isn't anything unusual. The WOT timing might be higher than what I'm used to but that tends to be a function of the cylinder heads. With the Vortecs or similar high efficiency chamber design (as are my RHS heads) total timing tends to be less. 41 at cruise isn't that much either. I've experimented with as highs 50 trying to squeeze more MPG out of the lump. (Not too bad either at 21 MPG)
As for shift RPMs, what I've found with similar builds with respect to CID, port flow and cam timing is that you're all in by 5700. I'm spec'ing a 383 (there's that stroker thing again) with heads that flow 255@.550". With cam timing in the mid 230's, it's done well before 6K. More like 5700 RPM. Not unlike yours. But the torque below peak is considerable.
That's what will get you moving at the drag strip.
The timing I see isn't anything unusual. The WOT timing might be higher than what I'm used to but that tends to be a function of the cylinder heads. With the Vortecs or similar high efficiency chamber design (as are my RHS heads) total timing tends to be less. 41 at cruise isn't that much either.
As for shift RPMs, what Iced found with similar builds with respect to CID, port flow and cam timing is that you're all in by 5700. I'm spec'ing a 383 (there's that striker thing again) with heads that flow 255@.550". With cam timing in the mid 230's, it's done well before 6K. More like 5700 RPM.
Not unlike yours. But the torque below peak is considerable. That's what will get you moving at the drag strip.
what is a good rpm.you think for our setup 5500 then? Or let it go a little higher? I agree i.think this motor is going to have alot of torque and we tried to match the convertor with the cam and I think the gears we went with are suitable for this build.
383.
250 CFM heads.
280/219 cam with a 112.
5500 isn't far off. I may have simulations buried in my files somewhere that might give a theoretical indication.
I'd shift there which might add another 200 RPM for overspeed and see what it does. If I'm at a test and tune, I'd be everywhere from 5200-5700. Assuming the valvetrain is stable that is.
The real test is going to be first 60' or so.
Better have slicks or something sticky!
383.
250 CFM heads.
280/219 cam with a 112.
5500 isn't far off. I may have simulations buried in my files somewhere that might give a theoretical indication.
I'd shift there which might add another 200 RPM for overspeed and see what it does. If I'm at a test and tune, I'd be everywhere from 5200-5700. Assuming the valvetrain is stable that is.
The real test is going to be first 60' or so.
Better have slicks or something sticky!
Were going to run MT ET street SS drag radials..
anyway you can look it up on the simulator?
Funny thing is the shop that did the work has a third gen he races single digit car and he said ours is fast...so im.hoping it is...lol
Did a little digging through my files.
I don't have anything along the lines of LPE219 which at 280/280 on a 111 LSA nets 58° of overlap. But cams on the list with 68-72° and 383's with a CR at 9.8 are pointing to a peak HP RPM of 5500. That's with heads that have a peak flow of 250 CFM.
FWIW, some of the theory says that cams with anywhere from 50-75° are placed in the same general group of "hot street machine". Performance becomes foremost but street manners are still required. The LPE219 fits right in the middle.
It looks like it's a fair bet that you're in that 5500 RPM zone.
I'd like to see the results of a compression test. Even one cylinder.
EDIT: I have no doubt that you'll be happy with your performance. It may take a while to dial it in but if you're not faster than me, I'd be surprised. Best corrected ET and MPH is 12.49 @ 109.26 MPH. And that's with a poor 1.85 60'. I've been more than a tenth faster in the 60. Take the old saying of a tenth in the 60 is worth 2/10ths at the stripe...
Did a little digging through my files.
I don't have anything along the lines of LPE219 which at 280/280 on a 111 LSA nets 58° of overlap. But cams on the list with 68-72° and 383's with a CR at 9.8 are pointing to a peak HP RPM of 5500. That's with heads that have a peak flow of 250 CFM.
FWIW, some of the theory says that cams with anywhere from 50-75° are placed in the same general group of "hot street machine". Performance becomes foremost but street manners are still required. The LPE219 fits right in the middle.
It looks like it's a fair bet that you're in that 5500 RPM zone.
I'd like to see the results of a compression test. Even one cylinder.
EDIT: I have no doubt that you'll be happy with your performance. It may take a while to dial it in but if you're not faster than me, I'd be surprised. Best corrected ET and MPH is 12.49 @ 109.26 MPH. And that's with a poor 1.85 60'. I've been more than a tenth faster in the 60. Take the old saying of a tenth in the 60 is worth 2/10ths at the stripe...
I agree its going to take some learning it's a whole new build new trans..new rear new everything lol
383.
250 CFM heads.
280/219 cam with a 112.
5500 isn't far off. I may have simulations buried in my files somewhere that might give a theoretical indication.
I'd shift there which might add another 200 RPM for overspeed and see what it does. If I'm at a test and tune, I'd be everywhere from 5200-5700. Assuming the valvetrain is stable that is.
The real test is going to be first 60' or so.
Better have slicks or something sticky!
I Second the motion test the shift points over that range. You may set your shift light to 5300 but by the time your brain processes that light coming on and you actually shift, how much higher the rpms are, may vary depending on the driver!
I Second the motion test the shift points over that range. You may set your shift light to 5300 but by the time your brain processes that light coming on and you actually shift, how much higher the rpms are, may vary depending on the driver!
I know he built our trans with the Corvette servo and something else the Corvette has were the Camaro trans doesn't I forget what it is he said it will shift higher then the factory trans already I'll have to.see what it really is im.sure I can data log it thru the Holley hp system.
Be aware that there are transmission rebuilds that will hold the automatic shift beyond what your target is. I found this through a couple of iterations of 700R4/4L60. It depends on how your rebuilder assembled and configured the various parts. Best bet is 3/4 throttle blasts to get a feel for it and then work your toward WOT shifting. When I race it's always manual shifting but one transmission I built up myself would hold 1st gear well past my 6000 redline despite my pushing it into 2nd. It was a little disconcerting. I'm really looking forward to racing my latest 4L60. It has a ton of new parts and the builder has nailed it as far as shift points go. The street only tells part of the tale though. The track is always the real test. That's a ways off for me.
Be aware that there are transmission rebuilds that will hold the automatic shift beyond what your target is. I found this through a couple of iterations of 700R4/4L60. It depends on how your rebuilder assembled and configured the various parts. Best bet is 3/4 throttle blasts to get a feel for it and then work your toward WOT shifting. When I race it's always manual shifting but one transmission I built up myself would hold 1st gear well past my 6000 redline despite my pushing it into 2nd. It was a little disconcerting. I'm really looking forward to racing my latest 4L60. It has a ton of new parts and the builder has nailed it as far as shift points go. The street only tells part of the tale though. The track is always the real test. That's a ways off for me.
He said the car is basically point and shoot..heat the drag radials and go he set up the trans up for us..but I'm sure it will need to be tweaked some..
Did a little digging through my files.
I don't have anything along the lines of LPE219 which at 280/280 on a 111 LSA nets 58° of overlap. But cams on the list with 68-72° and 383's with a CR at 9.8 are pointing to a peak HP RPM of 5500. That's with heads that have a peak flow of 250 CFM.
FWIW, some of the theory says that cams with anywhere from 50-75° are placed in the same general group of "hot street machine". Performance becomes foremost but street manners are still required. The LPE219 fits right in the middle.
It looks like it's a fair bet that you're in that 5500 RPM zone.
I'd like to see the results of a compression test. Even one cylinder.
EDIT: I have no doubt that you'll be happy with your performance. It may take a while to dial it in but if you're not faster than me, I'd be surprised. Best corrected ET and MPH is 12.49 @ 109.26 MPH. And that's with a poor 1.85 60'. I've been more than a tenth faster in the 60. Take the old saying of a tenth in the 60 is worth 2/10ths at the stripe...
That engine was assembled in 2012.
355. RHS Pro Torker iron heads (new and unported). They're an upgraded aftermarket version of GMs Vortecs. 10.2:1 static comression. 8.4 dynamic compression.
Custom cam. 274/282 110 LSA. .575"
Forged crank. Elgin rods. Hypereutectic flat top pistons. RPM Air Gap intake. 670 Holley w/ vacuum secondaries.
1 5/8" headers through full single 3" exhaust.
It'd be a stretch to say it made 400 HP. Especially with the poor exhaust system.
700R4 trans with an off the shelf 10" TCI converter.
3.73 rear gear and very old ET Street bias slicks.
Ran like a champ. Even got decent gas mileage.
The new engine was a step function change with a 288/294 cam and ported heads. Also stepped up the converter. I was hoping for another couple of tenths but that all fell apart when the engine started to give me grief.
So now it sits waiting for another rebuild. The short block has a lot of hard miles and even more miles cruising in general.
For the record, that was pretty far from a drag racing setup chassis-wise. No shock or strut adjustability. Just everyday Monroe Sensa-Tracs. And gearing that put me at the stripe around 5000 RPM. There was more in it there too. But at 3700 lbs with driver, it still was a quick car in its day. Not anymore.
That engine was assembled in 2012.
355. RHS Pro Torker iron heads (new and unported). They're an upgraded aftermarket version of GMs Vortecs. 10.2:1 static comression. 8.4 dynamic compression.
Custom cam. 274/282 110 LSA. .575"
Forged crank. Elgin rods. Hypereutectic flat top pistons. RPM Air Gap intake. 670 Holley w/ vacuum secondaries.
1 5/8" headers through full single 3" exhaust.
It'd be a stretch to say it made 400 HP. Especially with the poor exhaust system.
700R4 trans with an off the shelf 10" TCI converter.
3.73 rear gear and very old ET Street bias slicks.
Ran like a champ. Even got decent gas mileage.
The new engine was a step function change with a 288/294 cam and ported heads. Also stepped up the converter. I was hoping for another couple of tenths but that all fell apart when the engine started to give me grief.
So now it sits waiting for another rebuild. The short block has a lot of hard miles and even more miles cruising in general.
we kept the edelbrock headers 1 5/8 the only reason was we have a custom 3 inch y pipe into a 4.5 inch mufflex exhaust into a 4.5 inch 2 chamber flowmaster we do have a set of 1 3/4 slp headers we might throw on just means we need the y pipe remade to fit those headers I wonder how much the 1 5/8 is hurting us... ours with my wife In it was 3400 lbs but it has all emissions gone all tubular stuff the only weight we added i.think is the dana rear so hard to say what it weighs now...
Yes i said wife...lol this is her car she races it...and she is damn good...I'll take it down the strip for sure to see if either of us can get the best ET out of it...
I'm sorry im a modern mopar guy...lol I've had plenty of these in my day..
I do however love this build and cant wait to see what it does! im very excited lol
At the best guess peak HP RPM of 5500 ( possibly lower) I would say the 1 5/8" will be OK. They will add to torque production (not that you need it) but overall I think a compliment to the rest of the combination.
As for the wife racing, I say "Go Mrs hemi !"
From what i have seen on late model engines, i think 1 3/4 would be a better choice and pick up a good bit of power. 1 5/8 can work well in a very well designed header that isn’t necessarily handicapped with space constraints and you can get proper length and large radius bends with a good collector. Shorties lack alot of those design elements so pipe area i feel helps make up for it
Hey guys been driving the car to put miles on it to break in the rear and noticed how hot the cold air Intake is getting idling in traffic it was climbing past 170 degrees.. the IAT is located by the air filter I was thinking have putting the stock snorkel back on with the ram air boxes move the iat to either the air lid or one of the ram air boxes..or should I cut a hole in the battery tray and relocate the air filter under the car? Any help would be great.. i just think the cold air intake gets to hot...what do you think ?
not sure it it is just the angle of the photo, but is the cold air intake laying directly on top of the hot upper radiator's coolant hose? if so... welllll thats why your IAT would be getting hot! think, the fluid in that radiator is flowing hot non-stop when the t-stat is open, and your intake tube is right on top of it, so it would heat soak the "cold" air intake pipe, and the IAT in it.
not sure it it is just the angle of the photo, but is the cold air intake laying directly on top of the hot upper radiator's coolant hose? if so... welllll thats why your IAT would be getting hot! think, the fluid in that radiator is flowing hot non-stop when the t-stat is open, and your intake tube is right on top of it, so it would heat soak the "cold" air intake pipe, and the IAT in it.
Yes it is that was the only way he could route it so either i.have to heat wrap it or need to try the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes? What do you think?
Its not onlyheating up from the rad hose but also pulling hot under hood air by the rad. I go thru the battery box to put filter under car. And i like IAT nearer the tb but its less important on a na car imo
Its not onlyheating up from the rad hose but also pulling hot under hood air by the rad. I go thru the battery box to put filter under car. And i like IAT nearer the tb but its less important on a na car imo
So question am I better off going back to the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes?
Or extending the tubing to under the car ? Wont the tubing still get hot even tho the filter is relocated or will it cool it down being the filter is grabbing cooler air..
Also with this intake setup my kpa is 98 with baro at 99 so I guess its working but just heating up to much iats were over 170 degrees
The tubing should be better than the stock snorkel, but by how much im not sure Since it depends on how well sealed the ram air is done. I didnt See much if any gains from a 3.5” air system vs stock snorkel with crude ram air ducting, so potentially the ram air ducting sealed properly would have worked even better
its proven on ls cars. Chad speier on this site built a bigger snorkel and ram air and sees good kpa now over stock. If you are seeing 98 with the current then it be hard to improve on that imo, except you need to go thru the battery box to get to the good air, or cut the box out so air can get in
what we need to know is once you get moving down the highway, at some speed, what does iat do? Does it cool down? This is why i like the fast reacting sensors closer to the tb so we know what incoming air is doing when it reaches the motor
if it gets hot from heat soak then i wouldnt worry about it. As long as it moves down while moving. But going thru the battery box will help as thats where the fresh air is.
Yes iats go down once moving but it seems once it's hot it never goes down to ambient or even close to that.. I've seen it on the highway stay maybe 98 or so around town high as 170 plus then back down to 130s to me this imo is going to affect the cars performance at the track because in the staging lanes that's going to climb I know it will go down ...im confused I bought the ram air boxes I might give it a try relocate the iat to either the snorkel or one of the ram air boxes my thing is I want that good KPA if it is a restriction I bought an intercooler piping kit so I can extend the piping to.under the car I mean I have options I guess I need to see what works... i.was thinking of making a air snorkel like Chad did or at least give it a shot I have an extra snorkel to play with...
So question am I better off going back to the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes?
Or extending the tubing to under the car ? Wont the tubing still get hot even tho the filter is relocated or will it cool it down being the filter is grabbing cooler air..
Also with this intake setup my kpa is 98 with baro at 99 so I guess its working but just heating up to much iats were over 170 degrees
I can't say I've ever been a fan of the filter hanging off the end of the intake pipe. Principally because it's all hot air almost all of the time. Complicate that with the proximity to the upper rad hose and it gets worse.
With the requisite reworking, I can't think of a better method of a CAI other the the TPI twin filter air box. As Orr mentioned, Chad Speier modified his and being the cylinder guy that he is, tested his results on a flow bench. He's also consistently data logged his IAT's and manifold pressure demonstrating very positive results. If it weren't for Chad being who he is, I'd never have considered this approach because my understanding was that the twin filters weren't capable of enough airflow to support much past 400 HP. He tested the air box capacity with and without filters and found they flowed more than enough CFM to suit his needs. And from what I've seen about his car, the needs are considerable.
Check out his fabrication thread.
I can't say I've ever been a fan of the filter hanging off the end of the intake pipe. Principally because it's all hot air almost all of the time. Complicate that with the proximity to the upper rad hose and it gets worse.
With the requisite reworking, I can't think of a better method of a CAI other the the TPI twin filter air box. As Orr mentioned, Chad Speier modified his and being the cylinder guy that he is, tested his results on a flow bench. He's also consistently data logged his IAT's and manifold pressure demonstrating very positive results. If it weren't for Chad being who he is, I'd never have considered this approach because my understanding was that the twin filters weren't capable of enough airflow to support much past 400 HP. He tested the air box capacity with and without filters and found they flowed more than enough CFM to suit his needs. And from what I've seen about his car, the needs are considerable.
Check out his fabrication thread.
Yeah I've talked to him he also tested the stock air snorkel and it flowed 770 cfm I though that would be enough for our build with ram air boxes but I'm guessing it wont? I mean I have a good test the cold air I have now full throttle I see 98 kpa it I do the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes and go full throttle and don't see those numbers I know I went backwards right?
Yeah I've talked to him he also tested the stock air snorkel and it flowed 770 cfm I though that would be enough for our build with ram air boxes but I'm guessing it wont? I mean I have a good test the cold air I have now full throttle I see 98 kpa it I do the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes and go full throttle and don't see those numbers I know I went backwards right?
That logic would tend to follow. At 770 CFM, the stock box would be on the limit I think. Modified to a 4" inlet and larger enclosure with Chad's mod, then we're good to go.
From the looks of it, you could install stock air box without any mods. Or so it would appear from your pictures. You've got nothing to lose in that case. Just use quality filters.
Based on the results, which I'd be curious to see, you can plan the next step from there. If any.
That logic would tend to follow. At 770 CFM, the stock box would be on the limit I think. Modified to a 4" inlet and larger enclosure with Chad's mod, then we're good to go.
From the looks of it, you could install stock air box without any mods. Or so it would appear from your pictures. You've got nothing to lose in that case. Just use quality filters.
Based on the results, which I'd be curious to see, you can plan the next step from there. If any.
I can put the stock air snorkel on easily I keep.all the parts..I run k&n filters I'm going to install the ram air boxes silicone any cracks throw the iat in the air snorkel maybe in one of the boxes... i think being i have a starting point with the cold air intake I'll know if i improved anything or hurt it..my goal cooler IATS and keep the kpa at 98 or higher if possible...of course this is me just trying out something..if not I'll throw the cold air intake back in and relocate the air filter below the battery tray and see what that does...
On a side note this car has alot upstairs I thought it was going to be low end it does but man it pulls hard on top unless that's how he has it tuned?
You may want to consider cutting out the baffles in the lower part of the housing. That's pretty messy down there. But a stock test is good too. There can never been too much data.
As for the engine pulling hard upstairs, hot rod engines tend to do that! Before my engine got hurt, I was amazed what the heads and cam did to the performance. Whereas I'd normally shift when the tach hit 6k, this new build flew past that in an instant. It would pull like a freight train to 7000 (which probably wasn't the best idea). I really wish I'd had the chance to track test it but I had other issues to deal before getting serious with slicks.
You may want to consider cutting out the baffles in the lower part of the housing. That's pretty messy down there. But a stock test is good too. There can never been too much data.
As for the engine pulling hard upstairs, hot rod engines tend to do that! Before my engine got hurt, I was amazed what the heads and cam did to the performance. Whereas I'd normally shift when the tach hit 6k, this new build flew past that in an instant. It would pull like a freight train to 7000 (which probably wasn't the best idea). I really wish I'd had the chance to track test it but I had other issues to deal before getting serious with slicks.
Anyway, test away. I'm listening...
Yes I gutted the boxes now I need to take all that plastic stuff out to put the ram air boxes in..then we test and see how it does at least I have a starting point to see if I improved or hurt it...lol
You’ll have to test at the track to see if the ram air works or dyno with someone blowing air at the grill with a leaf blower that can move tons of air at speed. Else you wont get the ram effect and power wont show on the dyno
track would be easier to just quickly swap out the intakes
maybe try getting some heat shielding wrap for the rad hose, insulate it from the intake pipe or do both. Cut the battery box out and see if it changes.
with the iat near the filter showing hot air already, it may be even hotter time it reaches the throttle from going over the rad hose. Thats why i like the iat near the throttle
its a tough call if 98 kpa and 130-150 deg air is any better than 94 kpa lets say and 70-95 deg air lol. Testing is your friend but i would guess 10-15 hp on temp alone.
You’ll have to test at the track to see if the ram air works or dyno with someone blowing air at the grill with a leaf blower that can move tons of air at speed. Else you wont get the ram effect and power wont show on the dyno
track would be easier to just quickly swap out the intakes
maybe try getting some heat shielding wrap for the rad hose, insulate it from the intake pipe or do both. Cut the battery box out and see if it changes.
with the iat near the filter showing hot air already, it may be even hotter time it reaches the throttle from going over the rad hose. Thats why i like the iat near the throttle
its a tough call if 98 kpa and 130-150 deg air is any better than 94 kpa lets say and 70-95 deg air lol. Testing is your friend but i would guess 10-15 hp on temp alone.
Well that's the fun part right testing and seeing what improvement you get from one way to another.. it's not hard to try both ways thank God so I'll do the stock air snorkel with the ram air boxes and data log and see what it does vs the cold air intake then go from there...lol
Can always do what i did and ice down the plenum and air intake before the pass. Try to get as close to the staging lane as possible, push car if you can before starting.
cold pipe and plenum was always worth .1-.15 et on milder combos and prevents heating up for alittle bit
on a race pass tho your oil should be warm but coolant doesnt need to be running temp. It will be hopefully 140-160 deg max start and everything should be cool entering intake
Ok I put the stock air snorkel on with hawks ram air boxes relocated the iat in the snorkel all I can say is wow IATs run ambient to a few degrees higher at idle and around town once you get on the highway temps go down nicely low 80s on a 85 degree day with over 60% humidity and KPA readings at full throttle were 98 baro today was 100 guess it's ok with the stock air snorkel gutted boxes and the ram air so should I leave it?
i would,many find the "air intake" they add in hopes of more power ends up bringing the power down.i guess its either that or find a way to isolate the filter away from the rad but that involves cutting a hole in the secondary battery tray.
If for nothing other than the lowered IAT's ...absolutely.
You've got nothing to lose with keeping it in place and experimenting. What you'll need are some real WOT passes to determine if, when air demand is the highest, you have the supply needed. The OEM 3" inlet is what I think will hold you back. That's were the need for the modified air box and 4" pipe come into play.
i would,many find the "air intake" they add in hopes of more power ends up bringing the power down.i guess its either that or find a way to isolate the filter away from the rad but that involves cutting a hole in the secondary battery tray.
It's all about two things: Enough supply and cold air.
If you have both and can tune accordingly, then you're ahead of the game. Plain and simple.
The factory TPI air box arrangement has most of the engineering done for you. Nice setup really. Just a little undersized for the OP's needs (or mine for that matter).
07-21-2020, 10:34 PM
