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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
Ok brake booster and lines are out of bay..Let me just Say...getting to the 2 hard to get to bolts on that booster..Sucked ***..I did the hard ones first..to make it fun to take off the last 2.. TOOLS NEEDED
1.72 tooth 1/4" ratchet. (ya going to need one with fine teeth) to make every move count!
1. 1/4 universal joint . THIS FIT ON THE BACK OF THE SOCKET
2. 7" 1/4 extensions. GET ONE PUT TOGETHER..have one on the ratchet. then pop them together and use when ya get the socket and joint on the top nut.. doing the same for the bottom nut..snaking them past wires and plugs.. then putting a socket on the end..easy easy lemon squeezy
1.15mm deep 1/4" drive. you will swap out sockets at some point..I had to.. locking cable was getting in the way..(92 you will see.)
1. 15mm shallow 1/4 drive
I dropped the steering Column down maybe 1/2". and slid the extensions next to the Column to get to the hard spot nuts..
THE 2 EASY TO GET TO NUTS JUST USE THE RATCHET AND THE DEEP SOCKET
Im sure others have had to do BUT.. WOW what a PITA!.now the cleaning can start.. before the repaint of the Bay.. the nice thing is every thing going back in will be brand new Most of it Chrome plated (ya I know..but why Not!) who wants to not have power and chrome! together..after all i was Lazy for the last 7 years working on the car..and did nothing but buy parts..sell off parts...buy more parts..and chrome plate parts.. ever thing I could Unbolt.. I did just ran into a Bracket I cant take off..its on my Distribution block. the bracket bolts it to. the brake booster..cant unbolt it some sort of sweg?..so it stays Black..lol
just look at the battery try..not a spot of rust! battery was moved to trunk when car was new..but 15 years of dust..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-20-2021 at 04:53 AM.
NOW with the plastic engine for the Mock UP. I can start the hole cutting for the Headers..this was a set plastic BBC & Th400. as I don't want to fool around with the Cast Iron crap..makes it easy to move and ..well Mock up..and with ea tube of the headers a Separate Piece should be easy...cut small..and see ..
Below drivers side marked for cut.. some brake lines might need to be moved a tad..(if any) my line lock mount holes can be seen in front of the marking for the header holes..it was like it was meant to be... Below marked for cut. passenger side Headers. BELOW the 2 tubes come straight out. before tuning down to exit the fender. they inter the hole cut just about at the bend in the tubes.
BELOW the tube starts upward just a tad to clear the steering rod.then starts downward to exit fender.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-20-2021 at 04:44 AM.
ENGINE Bay at this point. still have to remove the fuel lines. then I can start scrubbing her down..and prep for Paint..also going to test fit the Mock Up Plastic BBC and th400 tras to get to holes cut for the Headers..
removed the bottom steering shaft bushing to replace it with bearing. going to have the Retaining cap and clip chrome plated..(why not)
Not seen clearly. in the pic left of fire wall. id the 2 Fuel Lines Braided SS lines. still have to remove then. they have Isolators on the ends. and lead up to the Fuel Presser Gauges inside the car..#4AN. filled with anti Freeze. hate the sticky stuff!
doing some upgrades as well..Upgraded steering shaft going in..
and you know this.will not be black!..cuzz every body paints there's Black!
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-24-2021 at 05:19 PM.
more Progress. Gm likes the Seam Sealer removed about a 1/2LB of the stuff. as soon as I Get the fuel lines & steering box out..I will cut the first holes for the Headers.. get it set up with the Plastic eng and trans.. then the last of the scrubbing../ Scuffing and into Paint.. removed all the Nitrous oxide harness and Lines..and will redo it fresh..
soon Ill be removing the Heater core...to replace it with a Aluminum Unit..Marking the depth..the removing it. to Tig AN male ends on it..
(No Hose clamps anyplace!) with the Big block I will have to use 90deg ends coming off the core..Valve cover might be in the way..withh check it out with the mock up block..
a lot of deburring (sharp crap) from the spot welds..but always wanted to do it. and If I have to use My 5hp Presser washer to get the blackish crap out of the corners..I will..even if I have to do it inside My shop...Ill trap it/cover every thing off..and Hit it!!
was test fitting the Billet hood Hinges.. looks like just a touch hear and there on the Hinges so the holes are 100% lined up..when its all together the Chrome Hinges will be up for sale..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-25-2021 at 12:52 PM.
they did a nice polish before the plate..this set I used to fit my new hood. a 5" cowl.. I hope the billet Hinges works as nice..if not the billets will be up for sale..$650..LOL.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-26-2021 at 04:50 AM.
Yeah, I paid somewhere around $800 for the Ring Brothers hinges for my second gen. Totally worth the entry price though, with every pivot point being a roller bearing
To Days Up Date.
ya know when ya order a car..and you tell them..No Dealer Prep..and NO. Ya Dont want Under Coating. and they say Ok . I Explain to them. you don't even want the plastic removed from the steering wheel...they say. "We Get it . We under stand".. then comes the day A few Days after you have that talk.(46Days). they give you a ring.. to tell you your car is In.and you drive down to the Dealer to Pick it up..AND... its Been Dealer Prepped.. and the New sales Men also tells you they even tossed in under coating.. you see it has 12 Miles On the OD.. and you ask them..so did they do a Dealer Trade? ..after about 2 Hrs of Passing the buck..and the Blame Game.. (AND A FULL TANK OF Gas.. free oil changes. for the first 10.000 miles) means nothing to me. they give you the Plastic Bags off the seats & Visors. from another Camaro.. and a new Bra for the front of the car..(still have all the goody's).. With all of that I STILL..Hate Under coating!..it's on every thing under the car..the shop reeks! of Lacquer Thinner! ya have to take the Gard off the Angle Grinder. with the stiff wire wheel.(making a Death Machine!) thet will Draw blood and remove meat so fast. it's to late to even drop the damn thing..and ya dont want to drop it for gods sake!.. At the same time catching a piece of wire shot into the back of your hand..you go to pull it out of you hand. and see that its into your hand almost 1/2".. ya get Under coating in your hair..EVERY PLACE!
I HATE UNDER COATING.. shop rags soaked in Lacquer Thinner. ya cant touch Any thing....2nd thinking what ya dont want to remove next!
Rant over!
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-26-2021 at 09:27 PM.
Fuel Lines are now Out..all Under Coat is removed in the lower Trans Tunnel..and side frame.. its cleaned. and prep for primer..
OK. got it all cleaned up. set to Scotch brite. before primer & Paint.. going to mock up to cut for the headers.. lower eng mounts 0nly have 2 bolts ea (it's a test fit).. and loose. upper mounts on mock up eng just finger tight.. and There is no way Im getting them to Line Up.. been up 27 Hrs doing the cleaning and Prep...
WHAT Gives.. DRIVER side drops in.. Ok next..
Passenger Side..even Loose and a bit of movement..this is as close as its getting..am I missing something? and yes..they are on the right sides driver side/Pass side.. Moroso Mounts sbc/bbc.
WHAT am I doing wrong..lol.. Or is the Plastic Block Goofy. ..Going to Take the K Member and Test fit it to the Eng On the stand. to see whats Up.. close to 30 Hrs. straight..Want to get the set up done.. so I can install next week.. then move on the the Back Of the Car..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-27-2021 at 07:03 AM.
The frame side mounts look like they have an offset, and both are in the "make the engine lower" position. This also makes the through bolts closer to each other.
What happens if you flip one or both of the frame mounts 180*?
The frame side mounts look like they have an offset, and both are in the "make the engine lower" position. This also makes the through bolts closer to each other.
What happens if you flip one or both of the frame mounts 180*?
flipping the lower mounts is a no go.. they do not line up with any holes on the K member.. as they sit on the K member now. all 4 bolt holes in them Line up 100% 2 on the bottom close to ea other.. the 2 top bolts are a bit wider apart.. the holes in the K member are the same way.. flipping them 180 only 1 bolt hole would be used... the mounts are hold overs from My small block days.. but Moroso List the same Part numbers for the small blocks & Big Blocks...?
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-27-2021 at 07:54 AM.
Update.
so next week this set should be in..(told they mimic) the GM clam shell mounts as in Hight.. so they should work..but just in case..ill have a Poly clam shell set made up..
the start of the week it's to be 75/80 deg & dry.. so going to shoot the eng bay..the shop should be 68/72 deg. thats what im shooting for..base coat..and clear cloat..(NO BLACK)..
did see a flaw in one of my valve covers..so had to take it in the have fixed. (remove the chrome plate) and re plate it..and so I found 1 more small piece to be plated.. and only 1 cover had a flaw..(picky)Me
installing the eng with this set below (eng came with)..incase of disaster! ...just not into them...also the filler holes/vent/pvc..staggard. just dont like staggard. front /back ..not my style.. like them both upfront..
below..both. up front..also back up covers..Now. if I could just get a Red air filter..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-28-2021 at 09:11 PM.
Update.
so next week this set should be in..(told they mimic) the GM clam shell mounts as in Hight.. so they should work..but just in case..ill have a Poly clam shell set made up..
the start of the week it's to be 75/80 deg & dry.. so going to shoot the eng bay..the shop should be 68/72 deg. thats what im shooting for..base coat..and clear cloat..(NO BLACK)..
did see a flaw in one of my valve covers..so had to take it in the have fixed. (remove the chrome plate) and re plate it..and so I found 1 more small piece to be plated.. and only 1 cover had a flaw..(picky)Me
installing the eng with this set below (eng came with)..incase of disaster! ...just not into them...also the filler holes/vent/pvc..staggard. just dont like staggard. front /back ..not my style.. like them both upfront..
below..both. up front..also back up covers..Now. if I could just get a Red air filter..
Is that filter paper or gauze? If you can find a cotton filter in any color that will fit then you can just buy the K&N filter cleaning kit.
the filter is new.. and cotton..its a gray color..and not the type to oil..I was thinking of a dye..thats if I can even get it to fit under My hood.. I think its about 2" to tall.. Base and lid..adding to the hight..as they added this ugly rise...
this one is red..But way to small/short..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-29-2021 at 03:59 AM.
Ah, I gotcha. That would work too just using a regular spray bottle as an applicator. That’s a great looking build! The clear lid messes with my head every time I see it.
working on a few diff things on the car new..front to back the only thing left GM is the paint Carpet and 25% of the brake lines at this point.. going over the Motor Mounts..I can drop the eng Down almost a full 2" but will have to see oil pan room and Geometry of every thing..if I do.. the way it turns out Factory GM motor mounts are all the same from 1972 up till 1993.. with the clam shell type.. when it comes to left and right hand size & Hight.. wonder why Moroso would Make a Left and right side diff Hight Difference...?
anyway..its almost 2AM and Im going out to start doing some more work..
see what Im talking about..when i invert the top and bottom (lid and base) the thing drops down almost 3"...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-29-2021 at 02:09 PM.
well the first cut on ea side is done. Can't test fit until I get the mounts. to install the motor. just did the Holes the way Don Lemon 's schismatics/Diagram. cant paint untill I know Im done with the cuts. My Heads have ports 200 OR 600 thousands(cant remember) higher then stock..so dont want to shoot any Base coat till I can do it all at the same time..and clear coat with in an Hr... deburred the full bay..so rags/buffer when cleaning dont get snagged..all the under coat in the front has been removed..(not the wheel wells) Im going to do that later on.. Driver Side.
Passenger side
and
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-30-2021 at 09:40 AM.
so the 2nd set of mounts came in today..(sunday) Trans Dapt and they fit. they spent all the money on the packaging.. as
the BBQ paint sucks..
they bolted right in no probs.. so on to fitting the tubes in the Holes..(see if i got it right) using the diagram they sent me.. or will I
need to take more out..) my tools cut that wheel well like Butter..crazzy fast...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-31-2021 at 04:29 AM.
Ok just one more trim. to add a bit more room on the Passenger side on the forward tube..and then into Paint.
the shape of the cutout. lets you install the tubes from the top side..turning them as you slide them down..easy fitment.
driver side is all set.. the only difference will be my heads are 1/4" higher on the exhaust ports..lots of room at the top. Dan worked that into the build of the Headers..this mock up block is stock location of the ports..
did I mention I Hate under coating.. its now gone from the front half and set for paint.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-31-2021 at 04:59 PM.
best bang for the buck is the Plastic Mock up eng set BBC $ TH400. No pan on thrans. Yet.. but its in.
In
fitting the drivers tube. steering shaft.lots of room.
Note: the 2 sockets on the heater core.. perfect fit. to keep paint off the foam..its the little details. things ya just don't notice . and I dont like Over spray!
they are light enough to pick up and slide in the car. 1 guy could do it..(I am) but this first time I did It like real life.. motor ..then tranny from under the car..lol going to toss on all the tubes. and collectors. to check fit..with all the prep for painting the bay.. and fit then trim. REPEAT/REPEAT...this last few times it was getting old all the fender shaving. so this is what it looked like after the first cut..who wants to wipe down a prepped Surfaces. looking for shaving..(not the wifes sheets goodwill $1.00 ea....makes it easy to just fold up the cuttings into a ball..and then just clean the cutting area..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-31-2021 at 05:04 PM.
was thinking about it...but no.. going to leave them.. (Light wt)..LOL..ill draw there eys away by chrome plating Every thing... (every thing)
(afterthinking about it) the next day.. now would be GOOD time to do it.. yours looks good.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-01-2021 at 06:19 PM.
Test fit is Done..Fits 100% Dan Lemon has not done a set with the UMI K member. he's done them for a few other K Members.he Can add UMI to the list of [size=13px]Manufacturer's K members.[/size]
this trans pan hits the scale at almost 7lbs..(not using it..it was on my FTI TH400)
no tubes are touching.. all clear by 1/8 inch. or more. they are a work of art.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-06-2021 at 02:33 PM.
its getting bigger...
dont think the 5" cowl hood is going to clear. the intake set up..from the front top of my eng to the top of my shortest air cleaner is 15 &1/2"
the 1 spark plug is going to be a pain..but I have the 1/4 drive tools to get to it.. this shot..no brake booster and lines in the way..by removing the Valve cover I should have a better shot to get to it....the rest are wide open to get to. .going to bring the fuel lines in on the passenger side.. up into the battery Tray..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-02-2021 at 08:28 AM.
To Day got her into Paint..2 stage. Base coat. clear coat.. the prep was a pain.. but i did get every thing deburred.so it can be washed/clean with out snagging your rag..or hand..
Glamor shot
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-03-2021 at 01:25 AM.
You are on a roll bud! You were gone from the forum for a long time and within a week you are cutting, slicing, mounting, and paining. ! Good stuff ! Awesome progress !!
Been working on it as much as I can..up front we have the Viking Crusader Coil Overs with wilwood 6 piston brakes. Classic tube SS hard line Brake Line set. Courtesy of Classic tube (thank you).
out back in the Custome Aluminum Fuel tank that replaces the Factory Tank.. then the fuel line and pumps and filters. 2 sets of wheels for the back.. weld wheels with Bead Locks and welds wheels with out Bead locks.. thank you weld wheels.(think I paid Half price in the end)
that's a Carbon fiber helmet in the back ground.. along with a few other parts.. its like Xmas in June...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-03-2021 at 09:03 AM.
You are on a roll bud! You were gone from the forum for a long time and within a week you are cutting, slicing, mounting, and paining. ! Good stuff ! Awesome progress !!
Taking the summer Off..sorta.. to get the car up and running.. still have a lot of work ahead .want to get it done before July..
still run into stuff to be Plated. Like the end Cap and spring clip for the steering shaft..Yep..chrome plate it also..with Baring upgrade.
(not a race car)
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-03-2021 at 09:05 AM.
Classic Tube sent Me a Full SS Hard line Kit for my Car. so that's going in next.. then setting up the Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank.(replaces) the Factory Tank. then working the fuel lines..then moving to the inside to redo a few things. still need to pull the heater core. and set up the new one (Aluminum) with AN fittings..
Ok..so now its going back together..all 100% new parts..Every thing updated.. a few parts will be reused (line lock) set up..did it 30 years ago..and like it..so it stays.. lets get started with the Brakes.
California Brake Supply rebuilt. a Camaro master and booster for me. Yes I had some work done to them..Before sending them back to them. to be put together.
wanted a new top..to go with the polished parts
and now Back onto the car..bolting the booster back in was easy..as every thing was left when I removed it before shooting the eng bay..
nothing like Factory GM Parts to make going together Fun!
Ya think the cheap Mr Gasket Chrome to is a bit to much?
to much Chrome?...lol ya ant seen anything yet!
all the new brake lines are SS. and will Lay Under the steering shaft instead of over it like GM did them..all the SS lines are pre bent (SWEET)
might have to do a custom Line onto the K Member..to run across it..
The Eng doesn't make enough vacuum for the Brakes (big mech roller) so a Pump is installed in the nose under the tray the cruse diagram was at.. the line to it will be ran into the strut tower.. wheel well side..it only comes on when needed. it has a built in regulator. I can set..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-04-2021 at 02:29 AM.
so killing time until the brake tools show up.. How about remove all the under coating from the wheel wells..just this one side took 7hrs to get to the point of paint and clear coat. the seam seal look like the put it on with a shovel.. swept it up put on scale..2lbs.. just the driver side.. passenger side next..
I soaked it with clear.. ..4 coats....going to show off of the trick brake lines..brakes /struts/spindles/and yes some plating done to parts under the strut tower..they must put this black crap on at the Factory..as it was under the brake line retaing brackets..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-06-2021 at 02:27 PM.
set up to make aset up to make and install the SS brake lines.
SS brake line3/16 line coil of 25" (to make my front lines the way I want)
Tubing Straightener – 3/16
SS Stone Guard (to cover Brake line I make) crossing the K Member
Cool flaring tool to do both flares ISO and double. this works so ya can do it on the car.
SS stone Guard to cover ne lines crossing K member
a roll of copper Nickle Line for mock of of lines
and then Buff and polish lines then clear coat them..
close to $200 buck to fix that Crazy GM Metric line fitting used from 1990/92 and make it the way I want..
Remember I Had my Car Locked away for close to 10+ years..it was Like a Barn Fined..when I took her out..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-08-2021 at 05:00 AM.
Ok so the tools & brake lines came in Today. no real Game plane on Routing the new brake Lines..was playn with it for about 3 hrs... and have the Line Lock plumbed in. a bit diff then I had it for the last 29 years.. but same place..and with 100% the right flairs on the ends.. Also Classic Lines goofed on one of the small Lines. (has the wrong end on it) so I had to install a old Gm line My car came with..(it stands out)
its been so long apart I forget how some of the brake lines run..bottom to top..will swap it right in the next day..
the gold zink stands out on the white. and the AN fitting is from Wilwood. for the braided SS brake lines to there 6 piston Calipers..
Factory hole in strut tower. so I used it to keep it simple..
the Brake line Flaring Tool for the 3/16 line works like a charm.. will give classic tube a call and see if they will send out A replacement line from the master Cylinder. they sent it out with fine threads on both ends... should be a course threads on 1 end.. and I did not plane on making the larger lines..lol
Have to install the K member for the passenger side. as for the rest of the brake lines will install the new SS line from classic the runs to the back.. but I will Make the rear Hard Lines for a cleaner look.. classic puts a lot of bends in them..Just like GM did.. Im going to do just a simpel stright line set up the the braided SS caliper lines in Back.. this is all about installing a Big Block chevy. In My 3RD Gen.. and I will do a Video also.. on all the parts Needed. that work..for a install.. the one thing that I forgot was My Heads have a raised exhaust port by .600 thousands..(thats a lot) when your Mocking up the install with a reg BBC ..I hope I dont have to cut the holes Taller in the wheel wells..I gave them almost a full Inch all the way around..that .600 is going to eat most of that Up..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-09-2021 at 05:09 AM.
front brake lines are the pre bent lines are sorta bulky looking. and not using a Factory K memberso made a set for the front.with the line lock tied into them..will use the classic tube on the line leading to the rear.. did the passenger side line with it sitting in between the 2 K member.flush..try that with a single 5 foot piece of SS line..
had to redo the lines at the end. to 180deg the ends....its been so long I forgot how they should be..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-09-2021 at 04:29 PM.
So the SS brake lines are in. was able to Keep all the line close to the strut tower. to keep it Clear. around the Motor on that side.saw able to Keep the Hard lines Up tight/hugging the Kmember without clamps..or retainers .. Just Looks Better (I think). will add a CLAMP to Ea end..
brake lines tucked up closer to the strut tower. making more room for the Motor. Classic tube did a good Job.
the only thing goofy was the 1 brake line. that had the wrong fitting on one end..
must have been a friday line..
Had to explain to Classic tube. How the part they made was not going to work.. then pay shipping to get it to me..think they should have picked up shipping..but the salesmen I was working with was Confused on why it was not right to start with...was like talking to a wall..He just did not get it..
install at the front is done..right down to the Blue clips GM used to install the Hard lines..even if the front lines are not stock.. or in the Factory placement ..the rear will be next.. as I will make the Hard lines My self..Classic tube made some.. but like GM lines way to Busy looking/bends..and its a 9" not a 7.5 10 bolt..so will look better when I am done..but the body brake lines are done just the stuff on the rear end is all thats left..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-11-2021 at 01:01 AM.
side note ..it took about 2hrs to get the cross tube made from a single piece of 5' foot piece of tube. to cross the K member. and lay in the low Gap between the 2 tubes of the K member..did it using the first 5' of tube I cut from the 25" coil of SS brake line..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-11-2021 at 12:23 PM.
Ok so in the episode of Pimp My ride..
5 years of not doing anything on the car..if it could be unbolted..it was chrome plated in that time..some things still in getting plated..ill be buffing out the proportioning Valve..lol
not joking..there is some bling bling on the way...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-12-2021 at 10:45 AM.
there are a LOT OF PARTS. for sale even now.. Rag Joint Steering shaft joint is as new. as is shaft. and zink plated..(for sale)
gold zink A brakets also for sale..
Test fit of Gas Tank...lol
when I received the tank.. i was thinking why no drop down sump..like in all there Pics.. mine did not have any ..just the 2 12AN fittings ..so I did not think anything of it..well..
not going to get any 12AN fitting in this tank when in the car...lol
have to give them a call (behind Bars Racecars) and see what they want to do..(see if they fix a goof on there part)
all other fitment was good..just had to bend the straps @ 90deg at the tanks base/edg. and use 5" M10-1.5 to install (stock was M10-1.5x 2.3/4")
shot below shows 1.1/8th filler neck from tank. and the 2 10AN fittings for what ever ya need.
below shows how the 4th gen filler neck. fits in the stock location.. using 7" of 1.1/8th filler hose.the 4th gen filler neck and cap. are used..filler neck bolts to inner body panel.
overall the fit is good
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-14-2021 at 12:54 AM.
UP DATE: PROBLEM FIXED. WITH THE RIGHT FITTING..WITH OUT TALKING TO THE MAKER. THIS IS WHAT i HAVE TO DO.. Aeroquip FBM2263 Aeroquip Reducers | Summit Racing
as you can see below. even if it was 1/2" longer it would still fit..so far.. this is the biggest prob I have had. with the install..2nd to getting the motor mounts to fit..(1 day to fined) this was less then 30 min to fix..
With this Aeroquip fitting x2= $105 from summit. this fitting installed still leaves me almost 1/2" from body.. and can be clocked anyway I like..
so I guess its still a bolt in tank.
just this was the plan...and would never fit the way the tank is...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-13-2021 at 07:55 PM.
filler neck is in/setup..for hose..made my bracket to bolt to inner fender wall..so the hose is a straight shot to ea end filler neck / tank neck .and is covered by the plastic shield.
fits 100% bolt in at this point... this also dropped 21lbs off the car..but by the time pump and filters are added it will only be 14 to 16lbs
05-20-2021, 02:17 AM
