chute mount and release cable pics
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
chute mount and release cable pics
my chute and some other stuff will be here monday looking for osme pics of how most of u are making ur own mounts and how/were u guys are mounting up the release handles
car has a full interor with a 10pt cage
thinking about welding in a bar over head and mounting the release handle up over head or on the console down by the shifter
car has a full interor with a 10pt cage
thinking about welding in a bar over head and mounting the release handle up over head or on the console down by the shifter
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Car: 87 IROC L98
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
Chute mount actually needs two types of mounts. You need a pull point for the chute to attach to and a bag mount. The bag mount can be something as simple as 1/4" round stock framework attached to the body. All it needs to do is hold the chute bag in place. I opted for a bag mount attached to the chute mount for an easy removal when I need the chute out of the way. My bag mount is Competition Engineering. It was easier to buy than to fabricate.
The chute mount itself needs to be secured to the frame somehow. Technically, it should pull from the vehicles center of gravity. Too high and it can unload the front tires when deployed. Too low and it can unload the rear tires.
I fabricated some tubing between the 4-link frame rails to attach my chute mount. I cut a hole through the bumper cover for it to pass through. Firebirds have the advantage of having a license plate in this location and can easily hide a chute mount with a flip down plate in a street car. A clevis is welded to the end of the tube that uses a 1/2" bolt with a large aluminum spacer over the bolt to give the chute a larger surface area to pull from.
Here are a few pictures I gathered while working on a wing design
The chute mount itself needs to be secured to the frame somehow. Technically, it should pull from the vehicles center of gravity. Too high and it can unload the front tires when deployed. Too low and it can unload the rear tires.
I fabricated some tubing between the 4-link frame rails to attach my chute mount. I cut a hole through the bumper cover for it to pass through. Firebirds have the advantage of having a license plate in this location and can easily hide a chute mount with a flip down plate in a street car. A clevis is welded to the end of the tube that uses a 1/2" bolt with a large aluminum spacer over the bolt to give the chute a larger surface area to pull from.
Here are a few pictures I gathered while working on a wing design
Last edited by AlkyIROC; 11-09-2014 at 01:58 PM.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
yeah im not worried about the bag mount , its the pull point im worried about , im assuming ill have to remove the rear bumper and build off of the mounting points
just a lil worried about getting rear ended on the street
or im thinking about runing some bars off the cage back down into the well area and attaching off that
just a lil worried about getting rear ended on the street
or im thinking about runing some bars off the cage back down into the well area and attaching off that
Last edited by project89; 11-09-2014 at 08:16 PM.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
this is what i figured id end up doing
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Car: 1982 Camaro
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
You can weld a 1 5/8 piece of tubing into your rear crash bar (There is actually a recessed area for the bar placement) if you are not concerned about weight. It's a pretty easy thing to do. Add the receiver and anchors and you are done. I sold mine that was done like that to someone on this board.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mount and release cable pics
You can weld a 1 5/8 piece of tubing into your rear crash bar (There is actually a recessed area for the bar placement) if you are not concerned about weight. It's a pretty easy thing to do. Add the receiver and anchors and you are done. I sold mine that was done like that to someone on this board.
dam top angle moved on me going to have to strighten that out but damn its solid dont think ill have any issues with it, called it quits for the night ill get it finished up tommorow
edit
im going to cut the angle flush with my side supports to clean it up and weld along them
Last edited by project89; 12-06-2014 at 01:45 AM.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mount and release cable pics
never got to finish it yesterday , i just had to give up for the day and head home so this is as far as i got
on wensday ill finish it up ,for the pack mount i made it so it bolts to the liscence plate frame bolts, and ill trim the attachment point back closer to the bumper
on wensday ill finish it up ,for the pack mount i made it so it bolts to the liscence plate frame bolts, and ill trim the attachment point back closer to the bumper
#9
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
If I ever get to speed that I need a parachute I will use my parking brake lever as the release.
My parking brakes were deleted years ago when the rear end was converted to 9" with disc brakes.
But I kept the console/ brake lever because it keeps the interior looking stock.
My parking brakes were deleted years ago when the rear end was converted to 9" with disc brakes.
But I kept the console/ brake lever because it keeps the interior looking stock.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
thats actually not a bad idea
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
I've seen that done in a few mustangs. If the parts are still there, use them.
My park brake and components went a long time ago. A cable release on the top of the cage/roof work good enough for me. I like to pull the chute at least once a year just to make sure everything still works. With good brakes and a long shutdown area, even at 150 mph, a chute isn't really required. I've seen 180 MPH cars stop without pulling a chute. Just nice to know it's there just in case you need to use it.
The hardest thing to get used to is having to pull the chute before you cross the finish line. The chute should be out and starting to inflate while you're still under power crossing the finish line.
What chute are you using?
My park brake and components went a long time ago. A cable release on the top of the cage/roof work good enough for me. I like to pull the chute at least once a year just to make sure everything still works. With good brakes and a long shutdown area, even at 150 mph, a chute isn't really required. I've seen 180 MPH cars stop without pulling a chute. Just nice to know it's there just in case you need to use it.
The hardest thing to get used to is having to pull the chute before you cross the finish line. The chute should be out and starting to inflate while you're still under power crossing the finish line.
What chute are you using?
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mount and release cable pics
I've seen that done in a few mustangs. If the parts are still there, use them.
My park brake and components went a long time ago. A cable release on the top of the cage/roof work good enough for me. I like to pull the chute at least once a year just to make sure everything still works. With good brakes and a long shutdown area, even at 150 mph, a chute isn't really required. I've seen 180 MPH cars stop without pulling a chute. Just nice to know it's there just in case you need to use it.
The hardest thing to get used to is having to pull the chute before you cross the finish line. The chute should be out and starting to inflate while you're still under power crossing the finish line.
What chute are you using?
My park brake and components went a long time ago. A cable release on the top of the cage/roof work good enough for me. I like to pull the chute at least once a year just to make sure everything still works. With good brakes and a long shutdown area, even at 150 mph, a chute isn't really required. I've seen 180 MPH cars stop without pulling a chute. Just nice to know it's there just in case you need to use it.
The hardest thing to get used to is having to pull the chute before you cross the finish line. The chute should be out and starting to inflate while you're still under power crossing the finish line.
What chute are you using?
its an sst chute i bought used for a few bucks , this one is just to get me threw tech for now, i dont plan on using it tracks i will be running at have plenty of shutdown room , ill be buying a brand new stroud chute sometime this season just incase i ever do need it
#13
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Car: 87 IROC L98
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Re: chute mount and release cable pics
Hard to say. I have no idea how it looks behind the factory bumper system. Mine's been gone for a long time.
The forces used to slow the car down will probably be far less then what the structural is capable of handling. When I pull my chute, I can feel it slowing the car down but it's not hitting hard enough to force me forward into the seat belt harness.
I use a Stroud chute. Probably the best design for chutes. I pilot chute pulls the chute pouch out of the containment bag. When the straps get pulled to full length, the pilot chute pulls the pouch off the chute and the chute deploys with the straps already at full length.
Older chute designs had the chute coming out and grabbing air right behind the car. The chute would deploy then as the vehicle continues to travel down track, there would be a sudden jerk as the straps would fully extent. The chute deploying right behind the car also has more of a chance of not getting enough air into it to inflate and also a chance of something getting caught on the car or wheelie bars.
With the Stroud chute, everything is far behind the car before the chute opens. That's also why the chute mount is pointed upward. Helps the pilot chute spring up into clean air to pull the chute pouch out of the bad.
Nothing wrong with the old style but it makes for a more sudden deceleration.
I have no idea what an SST chute looks like. I'm not even sure if they're made any more.
The forces used to slow the car down will probably be far less then what the structural is capable of handling. When I pull my chute, I can feel it slowing the car down but it's not hitting hard enough to force me forward into the seat belt harness.
I use a Stroud chute. Probably the best design for chutes. I pilot chute pulls the chute pouch out of the containment bag. When the straps get pulled to full length, the pilot chute pulls the pouch off the chute and the chute deploys with the straps already at full length.
Older chute designs had the chute coming out and grabbing air right behind the car. The chute would deploy then as the vehicle continues to travel down track, there would be a sudden jerk as the straps would fully extent. The chute deploying right behind the car also has more of a chance of not getting enough air into it to inflate and also a chance of something getting caught on the car or wheelie bars.
With the Stroud chute, everything is far behind the car before the chute opens. That's also why the chute mount is pointed upward. Helps the pilot chute spring up into clean air to pull the chute pouch out of the bad.
Nothing wrong with the old style but it makes for a more sudden deceleration.
I have no idea what an SST chute looks like. I'm not even sure if they're made any more.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: chute mount and release cable pics
Hard to say. I have no idea how it looks behind the factory bumper system. Mine's been gone for a long time.
The forces used to slow the car down will probably be far less then what the structural is capable of handling. When I pull my chute, I can feel it slowing the car down but it's not hitting hard enough to force me forward into the seat belt harness.
I use a Stroud chute. Probably the best design for chutes. I pilot chute pulls the chute pouch out of the containment bag. When the straps get pulled to full length, the pilot chute pulls the pouch off the chute and the chute deploys with the straps already at full length.
Older chute designs had the chute coming out and grabbing air right behind the car. The chute would deploy then as the vehicle continues to travel down track, there would be a sudden jerk as the straps would fully extent. The chute deploying right behind the car also has more of a chance of not getting enough air into it to inflate and also a chance of something getting caught on the car or wheelie bars.
With the Stroud chute, everything is far behind the car before the chute opens. That's also why the chute mount is pointed upward. Helps the pilot chute spring up into clean air to pull the chute pouch out of the bad.
Nothing wrong with the old style but it makes for a more sudden deceleration.
I have no idea what an SST chute looks like. I'm not even sure if they're made any more.
The forces used to slow the car down will probably be far less then what the structural is capable of handling. When I pull my chute, I can feel it slowing the car down but it's not hitting hard enough to force me forward into the seat belt harness.
I use a Stroud chute. Probably the best design for chutes. I pilot chute pulls the chute pouch out of the containment bag. When the straps get pulled to full length, the pilot chute pulls the pouch off the chute and the chute deploys with the straps already at full length.
Older chute designs had the chute coming out and grabbing air right behind the car. The chute would deploy then as the vehicle continues to travel down track, there would be a sudden jerk as the straps would fully extent. The chute deploying right behind the car also has more of a chance of not getting enough air into it to inflate and also a chance of something getting caught on the car or wheelie bars.
With the Stroud chute, everything is far behind the car before the chute opens. That's also why the chute mount is pointed upward. Helps the pilot chute spring up into clean air to pull the chute pouch out of the bad.
Nothing wrong with the old style but it makes for a more sudden deceleration.
I have no idea what an SST chute looks like. I'm not even sure if they're made any more.
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