project89

iTrader: (1)

new setup is going to require a chute and im not sure which one to get , what chutes are u guys running on full wieght 3rdgen

cars not complete yet but i know its going to be on the heavy side specially with the full mild steel cage

AlkyIROC

My race weight is a little over 300 pounds. I use a Stroud 430 Pro Stock chute with no issues. Most of the time I don't even use it but it's nice to know it's there just in case.

http://www.stroudsafety.com/PDFs/201...zingCharts.pdf

project89

iTrader: (1)

looks like a 430 it is

unfortunatly i left one very important thing out of my build budget ......
GOOD BRAKES,,, so at the track i will probably need the chute till i get the brakes upgraded.

right now ive been trying to search and see what a good brake upgrade will be that wont break the bank that will fit inside a 15inch wheel

heavy_chevy29

i would save your money and get a good brake set up first. your kind of going at this backwards

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i ran the stock brake system on mine for awhile and it still stopped fine at mid 130's. could hit the first turnoff in the 1/8 if i wanted. i went to strange brakes to cut some weight. stops good at 140, but i kept the brake booster on it so i have power assist.

1gary

Yep.Brakes first.Best advice is to contact the chute company asking them which one to get.

project89

iTrader: (1)

considering i dont even know what brakes to get yet , and i plan on running the car the end of the month, the chute will have to do for now, i wont have the money to do a full brake upgrade for atleast 1-2 months .

brakes are fine for street use right now as i dont plan on exceeding posted speed limits

1gary

The first time I pulled a chute sure did my attention.

AlkyIROC

When you eventually do pull the chute, go through the proper motions. You're at WOT and approaching the finish line. Before you cross the line and lift off the throttle, the chute should already be released and getting ready to fill. Push/pull the lever about a car length or two before you cross the line. That way by the time you're ready to lift off the throttle, the chute should be opening.

Stroud chutes are great. The pilot chute pulls the chute bag out of the holder. When the lines are fully extended, the chute is pulled out of the bag and fills. No sudden jerks like the chutes that fill as soon as the leave the holder then yank on the lines.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i definitely dont want one that yanks the dam lines and car as i have some back issues and that definitely wont do my back any good.

my goal is going to be to get brakes good enough i dont have to use the chute , truth be told its been about 12 or so years i dont even think i could pack a chute right now without someone showing me how again

1gary

My first time I pulled the chute and nothing happened for acouple of seconds.I thought damm it I packed it wrong. Really the delay was the pilot chute opening.Didn't think of that.Then it hit so hard I swear it lifted the back of the car off the ground.I swallowed my gum in fact.LOL.Then there was alittle thing like the crosswinds that day at the track.Yeah,didn't think of that one either.So I'm fighting it from being pulled into the other lane until it really slowed down.Seemed like forever,but truth be known as hard as it hit,it was like hitting a brick wall.Man that thing stopped quick.

project89

iTrader: (1)

alky do u have a stock spoiler or drag wing on ur car , i recall in the shop we would be real carefull of pack placement on cars with rear spoilers or wings as if it was to low it would cause the chute to deploy real slow or get tangled if the car had wheelie bars

just wanna make sure i mount mine at the right height so i dont have issues

AlkyIROC

I've had it with both. When I took off the spoiler and installed a wing, I lowered the mount so that the chute pack is below the wing. The pack is mounted slightly upward so that when the cable releases the pack flaps, the pilot chute springs upward to catch the air coming off the wing. The pilot chute pulls the chute bag out of the pack and when the tethers get fully extended off the back of the car, the pilot chute pulls the bag off the chute. The chute then fills with air without a big jerk on the tether lines.

When I pull the chute, I can feel it slowing me down but I don't get thrust forward like something jerking the car back. How a chute pulls depends on where the tether mount is. Too high and it wants to pull the front of the car up. In a door car, it should be roughly at the crankshaft centerline. In a dragster, the tether is normally mounted to the back of the diff.

It takes very little time to repack the chute. I can usually have it packed back up in less than 5 minutes. Most of that time is spent getting the flaps closed over the pilot chute and spring.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

this experience is why i've always heard guys say to drive into the chute.

project89

iTrader: (1)

im leaving the spoiler on my car its still a street car , when u had urs was the chute mount level with the spoiler or below it ?

AlkyIROC

Original location



Current location



Best picture I have outside showing the chute, new and old locations. From the looks of the mount, I guess I tipped the mount post back slightly for wing clearance.

FRMULA88

If you are running 150 MPH or more in the 1/4 you will need the chute regardless of how good your brakes are.

FWIW at my home track I have to use the 2nd turn now, and this is slowing the car from 127 mph with 4 wheel disc brakes, but I take my time.

Before I could always make the first turn... but the car was much slower. For 10 years running 12s @ 111 I had gotten so used to making the first turn. LOL I remember my first 10s pass.. and I blew by the first turn...

thinking to myself I thought I was quick before glad I upgraded the brakes when the car was "slow".

FRMULA88

IMHO you don't have to break the bank to get better stopping power.

I upgraded the stock front calipers to single piston SSBC units. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ss...w/make/pontiac

and installed slotted rotors. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ss...w/make/pontiac

The rears are wilwood 2 piston calipers that work with the 9" ford rear.
No parking brake to save some $.

everything fits in 15" wheels.

with power assist you will have great brakes.. I switched to manual to free up some room and it's still great.

I kept the parking brake lever and will use it later to launch the chute.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know im going to have to have the chute on the car , but that done mean i have to use it

those calipers are a bolt on ? rear brakes ill deal with soon as i swap in a rear either going to be a diy dana 60 or 9 inch, if i can make my own tq arm bracket that will work ill be using one of the dana's i already have, if not im going to buy a bolt in 9 inch housing

FRMULA88

You will have to use the chute if you can't stop the car safely with the brakes. which is why Gary also said to work on the brakes now.

after the 2nd turn is the sand bar not much real estate after that.

Yes the calipers are a direct swap, same at OEM but they are lighter casting with a stainless steel piston. They come with good pads too. or you can get Hawks pads..

this and slotted rotors will help.

for a few bucks more you can get SSBC dual piston calipers:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ss...bird/year/1988

or to save same weight wildwood have forged alum. single piston:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...bird/year/1988

both are direct bolt ons..

I may switch to these for some more stopping power / less weight

or save my money for the Wilwood dynalight front brakes..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...model/firebird

my car is too heavy to use their drag race only kit... but the one I listed will take 35# off the front of the car.. the drag kit gets you 50#.
Good Luck !

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

this is one of the reasons i'm exploring more weight reduction...cause of the wear and tear heavy cars put on race oriented parts.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...achute-qa.html

Some q and a with stroud

FRMULA88

LOL if I knew then what I know now I would have built a notchback Fox Body and been 500# ahead or gotten away from door cars and built a dragster at half the weight of this f-body.

669 HP in a 1800 # dragster = 8 sec ! FAST and parts last a long long time..
maintenance etc. is so much easier.

Never too late I could always put a "mild" engine back in the car and enjoy in on the street. I have owned the car too long to just sell it.

Find a used rail as a roller and put the 421 in it for racing if I want to go faster than 10s..

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i don't share the same sentiments, lol, but i see where you're coming from.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Hate fox bodies lol but they do make fine drag platforms

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i can't deny that...just can't deal with a bellybutton car, nor a pipe rack.

FRMULA88

never heard the term bellybutton car.

Pipe rack yes.. I used to feel the same way about rails... "that's not a car it's just frame with a motor and tires".
But the older I get it seems to me for a track only toy a rail is the best way to go faster than 10s without having a 1,000+ HP engine.

2nd choice would be a bike.

Don't get me wrong I would not have kept this car for 21 years if I didn't like it... but going faster than 10s is going to take a major weight reduction or a major HP upgrade. SO I need to decide in a few years what is better for me keep the car how it is and spend the money for the pro-charger & safety equipment to keep it legal. for 1000+ HP.

OR buy a used rail for a fraction of the weight that is certified for 7s-8s and just transplant the engine.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

I had that same dilemma a couple years ago. The car ran 10.7x's at 126 in good air, could drive it with a single finger on the steering wheel and was very repeatable. i went rounds every time out in the car but got board with it. I guess from chasing the crazy et goals with the 305, going fast with the ls motor was so easy i was beginning to lose interest. at that crossroads i needed to decide to go faster, or figure out a way to be content with where i'm at. I chose the latter by putting the manual transmission in the car. all of a sudden i'm in love with the car again. making passes are exciting and my heart is in my throat every time i roll into the burnout box. have i been "successful" with it? not like with the auto...but i still need more seat time. that was my way of dealing with it. since the six speed swap the car has gotten a lot more attention too for whatever reason.