Lmancha96

355 L98, Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot cam, Edelbrock Air gap intake, 650 CFM carb, Hooker 2460 Headers connected to a hooker catback. All backed by a Freshly rebuilt 700R4 with a corvette servo and a 2800 Stall Converter and 3:23 Gears

Open to any suggestions aswell.

Thansks

GreggymacZ28

Always hard to guess these things, but I would say probably around a 13.8. Few changes and you would be seeing even faster.

Lmancha96

What changes would you suggest? I see you also have a vortec headed 355 and are running 11s NICE

IM not trying to get close to 11s quite yet but I would be happy if I could get into the high 12s

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Some more gear would definitely help out. Trying to get one of these heavy pigs off the line is where it is at.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That should have no problem goin high 12's on sticky tires at baytown in late nov-dec when air starts cooling down lol or february. Great days to race

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i'd say mid/bottom 13's in normal conditions. there are much better cams out there for the money in my opinion though.

user "unknown_host" has basically the exact same combo, but with a little more gear. he's in oregon, maybe 1500' elevation or something. he's been bottom 13's this summer. we've decided he needs more converter and longtubes to get into the 12's.

Lmancha96

Thanks for all the responses...


Im planning on getting a fourthgen rear end. What are the best gears to get?

and what cam would you suggest?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Not enough to beat my firebird! Lol

Let me know when you want to hit the track, I'll see if I'm off and can help you out. I run at the 1/8th mile, just way closer, hooks way better and I have made 15 passes in one night just having fun. Baytown is a half hour between passes or more.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

hard to make a cam suggestion without knowing intended usage and performance goals for the car.

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

3.73's would be good if you are planning on street driving....

I would suggest not spending the coin on a basically identical rear end, and instead save up to put a 9" under it. If you can come across a set of 3.73's used for the 7.5 though it wouldn't be terrible, but I wouldn't put anything any higher in that rear.

And I agree with Matt, what are you planning on doing with this car, driver with occasional track trips, or track beater with limited street time?

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

Exact same combo, I have 3.73's they seem to be a good gear for the combo. My issue right now is the car doesn't want to 60' to save it's life. Barely breaks 2.0, I locked my timing out last weekend, going to race tonight if it doesn't rain out.

Also, I have the Summit Stage 1 intake, I have to imagine that an rpm air gap would be worth 15-20 horsepower over my $99 summit special.

Any advice MW66NOVA has for you, definitely listen to him he helped me get my combo down to where I am at

92lt1

Any updates? Just curious b/c I have a similar setup but with 13/4 long tubes and a3310 holley.

Lmancha96

Sorry I never responded guys... Have not had any money for the car lately (lost my job) Just started putting some work into the engine today after a month and a half hiatus...

To answer yall's question I plan on daily driving the car and taking it to the track every once in a while. But its main purpose is to get me to work and school ETC.

Im in the process of rebuilding the engine I removed both heads today and will be getting the rebuild kit soon.

So the car wont be seeing the track for a good while...

Thanks for all the responses

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

At the end of the year I went 13.11 @ 104.7 by locking my timing out, fyi.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Do not get the hot cam. I used it in my last 355 I built, there are much better cams with the same duration +/- 2* It is fine for an upgrade for general spirited around town driving but if you want good track performance or dyno numbers go with a comp or howards etc. In a street friendly 355 that cam won't go over 350 horsepower.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I dont get all the hotcam hate. They're proven to hit 330-350hp with a Vortec 350 and that's pretty good for a street car 350. A proper aftermarket roller cam is going to be much better, but the Hotcam fits an interesting niche where it can be acquired cheaply and can operate on ultra cheap LS2/LS3/LS6 yellow beehive springs. It can be done VERY cheaply which can make it a fairly attractive choice on a budget I think.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I think it comes from two things, there are better options in the same duration, and cam swaps and tuning a new cam take a bit of time and effort so you might as well put in a good piece. I can understand saving some money but now a days you can get good low mileage roller cams for $100-200. I don't hate the hot cam, its a fine choice for a car that is mainly just driving around town.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it is literally an old school grind ground on a hydraulic roller core. it doesn't take advantage of any of the cool stuff a hydraulic roller cam can do, lol

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Can you show me this old school grind? I've never seen a flat tappet in that duration range hit .500 lift. Wait... is it a solid flat tappet cam? That would explain a few things...

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

lift aside, i meant ramp rates and overlap and such. before camshaft technology exploded open, the lt4 hotcam was basically a an existing performance cam that was made efi compatible. just widened the lsa some and viola! instant efi cam. the ability to control valve action at the time was still a bit limited. nowadays you have much better valve springs to take into consideration (like take-off ls6 springs and such). as a result, you can get into much more aggressive lobes without making lift higher.