five7kid

iTrader: (14)

...I'm going to have to spray the LS1/4L60E Berlinetta.

I'm running one class that requires a 12.75 ET to qualify, and can't dial above 12.75 in eliminations. Last race on July 4th, I managed a 12.70 in the morning with a bunch of stuff out of the car (spare tire & jack, rear cargo cover, rear carpet, passenger and rear seats, high beam headlights, windshield washer reservoir, and as little gas in the tank as possible without cavitation - all told about 200 lbs removed), but by the 1st round of eliminations just after noon when it got hot, all I could manage is a 12.80.

I registered for the class assuming the '57 would be up and running in time. It still isn't. The next race is August 3rd, and with all I have left to do on the car, plus getting it into the shop for exhaust and tuning, while spending at least a week out of town for work, it just ain't gonna happen.

So, ordered an NOS 05168 LS1 kit. Has orifices for 100, 125, and 150 HP levels. The 100 will be more than enough to get it into the 11's (and the instructions have orifice sizes for a 75 shot). I'll run taller/wider tires for that series to give it a little more traction at the hit, and help keep it from running out of RPMs on the top end. It's run 11.95 at sea level on the narrow/short tires, so it's not like this is uncharted territory for the car (although nitrous does tend to hit harder than just atmosphere).

It's not my first dance with nitrous - ran it in the '57 w/396 to get it quick enough for Pinks All Out in 2008, then ran it in this class in 2009. That was more complicated because I was running E85 then, and had to adjust the fuel orifice accordingly. This should be much simpler, especially since it's a custom-made kit (only modification required is to the brackets, and the instructions have good detail on that).

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

Everything is better on nitrous!

do you have a way to dial back the timing? Best of luck. can't wait to hear how it does.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't have a way to dial back the timing. If I hadn't sold that MSD Digital 6...

I have a factory 2000 f-body PCM, with a "stock" tune - never had it custom tuned. It should be pretty conservative. NOS didn't recommend/require any tuning changes, just said to use TR6 plugs (stock is TR5). Since 75 is about the same as going down to sea level, I wasn't thinking it would be a stress to the tune. But, I'm no expert on VE tables, how O2 not going past the MAF would affect timing tables, etc.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

would just adjusting the tune get you there without the nitrous?

in for results

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I seriously considered that. I "hear" a tune makes a big difference. But, considering at full weight (3400-3420 lbs, depending upon how much gas is in the tank) I run 1.5 sec faster than stock 2000 LS1 Camaros (I have multiple examples at our track for direct comparison), I'm not sure I could gain much more than a tenth or so.

That means I might be able to run 12.75 at 90 degrees with no wind. But, on August 3rd (next race), it's likely to be 95-100 degrees sometime during the day with a 10-15 mph head wind. (What I failed to include above is I ran the 12.70 at 3205 lbs at 8600' DA - 90 minutes later, I ran 12.76 at 9200' DA. 90 minutes later, I ran the 12.80 in eliminations at 9600' DA. DA over 10,000' is not uncommon during the summer up here.)

And, a good dyno tune will cost at a minimum $300, more likely $500-$600. With no guarantee of ANY improvement.

But...

The nitrous kit cost $709. Guaranteed to be able to run under 12.75. Of course, you need to be smart with the stuff. And, there is the bottle fill charge (about $50 at the track for a 10# bottle), bottle changes, watching bottle pressure (I have pressure gauges on the bottle and line, and a bottle heater), etc., etc., etc. Good news: I already know how to do that stuff.

And, I don't plan on doing this every pass...

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

In for results. Everyone tells me to spray the stang, I refuse till its turning mid 6 1/8th all motor.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The kit is supposed to be here next week. The earliest I could run it is the following week, assuming I have time to get it installed. I wouldn't "need" it that week, but just to have a chance to try it before I do. I'd rather not "try" it when the runs count, so we'll see.

Pretty sure I'm only going to go with a 75 shot. No need to go any quicker than that.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

If a 50 jetting was good enough that would be awesome. A single fill would last a while.

Dakota W.

Got an episode number or youtube link? I'd like to see your car.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i think mine was in an episode in '08 too... atlanta. there is about a half a second shot of it leaving. lol

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Season 2, Episode 9

http://www.hulu.com/watch/92640

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The kit arrived yesterday. I didn't do much more than unpack it and check for damage (none).

I read through the instructions again to get the jet sizes for the 75 shot. In doing so, I noticed a couple of things: 1) they say the jets are sized for 43 psi - LS1s run at 58 psi; 2) they suggested plug reading for fuel jetting - for instance, for the 75 shot, go from 26 to 24 if rich, 26 to 28 if lean. So, I'll get those 3 jets. If it really is calibrated for 43 psi, it'll probably be rich, even with a 24 fuel jet.

Also going to get a pressure gauge for the bottle before I have it filled. I have an Edelbrock purge solenoid I used on the 396, I'll probably install it as well.

I was thinking I'd mount the bottle on the driveshaft hump between the rear seats. As long as I have the relief valve vented to the outside of the car, that should be legal (from what I remember from before). Will make it a lot easier turning the bottle on and off, and will allow the proper forward orientation without worrying about hitting the hatch window.

Now, to get it all installed...

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

forward orientation-as in the valve pointing towards the front of the car?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yes.

To quote the instructions:

"The most efficient mounting is the lay-down position with the valve handle toward the front of the vehicle. This position allows the greatest amount of liquid to be used before the siphon tube begins to pick up gaseous nitrous oxide."

The "lay-down" position assumes the tall bottle bracket is also toward the front of the vehicle.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

gotya. given being strapped in and all the other things going on in my car, i've contemplated some simple brackets to go in the place of the passenger seat. this would be easily reached by the driver's seat while strapped in the car, and i could still unbolt it and put the passenger seat back in.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You could even fab a bracket that uses the seat mounting studs. Would save drilling through the floor, and make it easy to remove when you want to put the seat back in.

I was going to use steel straps that extend beyond the bottle brackets, and bend them down to the tunnel and bolt down. I could then unbolt the bottle brackets from the straps if I wanted to get them out of the car, without having to unbolt the straps from the car. I used straps in the '57 to bridge the spare tire well and mount the bottle there - I was just going to use those straps for the Camaro, as I don't plan on spraying the '57 again.

But, now you've got me thinking about the passenger seat area...

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

exactly my plan.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

hey we could compare notes on a kit that I've got that has jetting for both 43 and 60 psi. It may be of some help for you. let me know if you want me to dig it out.


and nitrous outlet makes a bottle bracket to put the bottle between the rear seats as you planned on.
http://nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous-acc...bracket-2.html

don't forget with these cars you need to vent the bottle outside of the car to make it NHRA legal. this means you'll have to drill a hole in the floor either way. I like using a bulkhead fitting in the floor with a -8 line to the blow down adapter on the bottle

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I suspect the 43 psi is a typo in their instructions, carryover from earlier GM EFI kits. I'm going to call them in the morning to confirm.

That's a lot of bling to do the same thing my little 1/8" straps would do.

Yes, that's what I was saying, needs to be vented. They made me vent the bottle on the '57 even though it was in the trunk. The vent line included in the kit is pretty long, I should be able to run it to the floor somewhere with a grommet around it. They were even okay with a chunk of heater hose going to the outside of the car, clamped onto the bottle vent (the Edelbrock bottle didn't have a threaded fitting on the vent valve). I'll figure it out when the time comes.

Dakota W.

That first race was close! I love how calm you are in the second one, you're just like..."oh, okay" lol

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

For the round of 16, they mounted a camera inside the windshield, and put a bright LED light pack on the back seat passenger side pointed at me. That light was glaring off my glasses. Also, on each side of the track about 100' from the start line, they had big, bright TV lights shining back to the start line. With all that, Rich standing on his little platform in front of the tree in a tiny black T-shirt with his arms in the air looked like a ghost. I tried concentrating on him, but could see the other guy got the jump on me. I should have picked up on him going down track, but he maintained about a length on me all the way down the track. I figured my only hope was he had jumped (didn't think he had), or had gone too fast. Neither turned out to be the case, so I was toast. Oh, well, got at least 15 seconds of air time.

Okay, back on topic: I called Holley Tech Support before going to work this morning, asked them about the 43 psi. Told them the stock LS1 fuel pressure is 58 psi. They put me on hold to look into it, after waiting longer than it took to answer the call in the first place, came back and said the engineer who designed the system was in a meeting, but he'd ask him and get back with me. They called back after I got to work, said the jets were sized on actual LS1 cars; so the factory pressure was used, and the 43 psi in the instructions is a misprint.

So, pretty much as I figured. I had already picked up the recommended jets for 75 HP, 41 and 26, and also picked up 24 and 28 jets for the fuel for tuning. And a pressure gauge to go directly on the bottle, and a fuel pressure gauge to go in the line (the fuel supply line in the kit taps off the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, after the valve core is removed).

My time is pretty much spoken for through Sunday morning, so I'll see if I can get some work done on it Sunday afternoon and evening. Monday evening is also spoken for, so if I can't get it finished up Sunday, maybe Tuesday evening. There is a test night on Wednesday, hope I can get out for that. If not, the next race is next Friday, which will afford me 4 time trial opportunities, and I could even pay for 3 additional passes in a "time-only" category.

There is also a race the following Friday, but I'll only get 2 time trials. The "real" race where nitrous is needed is the next day. So, hopefully I'll get it sorted out by then.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Still trying to figure out where the system will go on the new car. But, the 89 was mounted in the spare tire compartment in my "street racing" days, I didn't want folks in my business at the track either.

The passenger floor board sounds good.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've been trying to visualize how to do the bracket in the passenger seat area. I'm thinking I'll do a strap diagonally from stud-to-stud in an "X", then weld a strap between them in front and in back of the crossing point that the bottle brackets will bolt to (unless the "X" just happens to provide that bolt point). That should be fairly sturdy but still easy to remove. The relief valve fitting points straight down when the bottle is label-up, so that will present a little bit of a challenge if I use the hard line provided with the kit. I could go straight to the driveshaft tunnel through the console, but don't much like that idea (although nitrous is heavier than air, so it shouldn't collect under the car).

Since there are rules associated with using nitrous, I'm not interested in hiding the system from the track, then getting thrown out for a year when discovered.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Oh no, was just mentioning back when I ran it on my third gen.

The X brace idea is what I would do. My blow down tube is stainless braided line so I can angle it as I see fit. I would use the same if I was you so you can exit below the bottle under it. I would not want to drill through the console or any of that business. You have a bottle warmer?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yes.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Great, have allot out here using torches... I refuse. Only thing I wish I had that I don't is a electric bottle opener.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I managed a little time this afternoon working on it. I spent a good bit of the time putting the stuff I had removed to lighten up the car back in. It was pretty annoying to drive that way. Left out the rear and passenger seats still, we'll see whether or not I will put the rear seats back in anytime soon (kind of like the cargo options it opens up when going to the track).

About all the rest I got done was working on the bottle mounting. I had a 1/8" x 2" x 3' steel strap laying around, went to Ace and picked up another one ($11.99 each!). I didn't take in-process pics (sorry, too lazy). I don't have a metal brake, just a small bench vice and 4 lb hammer. I didn't realize it, but the back seat studs are offset to the right, meaning the two straps aren't symmetric.

I didn't want too much of an angle for the bottle, so I bent up the back to level out the base. I used a cheap flux core wire welder for the welds. Only had to use a cross strap for the back bottle mount, reused the one I had in the '57.

I had the bottle in the brackets for the final locating to drill the bolt holes.

Not cleaned up or painted yet.






It's a lot more solid than I imagined it could have come out. I guess that 1/8" steel is stiff enough.

I'll have to wait until Tuesday to get back to the rest of the system install. Not sure yet how I'll route the nitrous line. The rest should be fairly straight forward.

Oh, discovered the new bottle doesn't have a port for a pressure gauge. That's a bit disappointing. No, that's VERY disappointing. But, the bottle I've had sitting around since 2010 showed about 890 psi tonight. Might be able to get a run or two out of it if I warm it up a bit first. If not, the track charges for a full fill, regardless of how much was in the bottle to start. I'll get my money's worth out of the new bottle...

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Looks about the same as what I was thinking. I forgot about the rear studs being different.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

nice! i like it when a good idea comes together! now that you did all the R&D on the bracket, all i have to do is copy it

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The bolt holes for the NOS bottle brackets are spaced farther apart than the Edelbrock brackets I had in the '57. So, you may need a crossbar for the front as well, if your bolt holes are closer together.

I haven't decided on routing for the nitrous line yet, but I'll probably put it under the carpet to the passenger kick panel, up through the fenderwell, into the engine compartment (like the factory ECM harness).

Still a lot of work left, and I don't have a lot of options for when to work on it. I'll be out of town all weekend, then again most of next week. Since I need it for the race on August 3rd, that doesn't leave much time in between. Not sure I'll get a chance to run it before then, either.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Got the solenoids, lines, and plate installed. No electrical done yet.

The solenoid brackets go under an intake mount bolt. They showed how to bend the brackets to hide the solenoids under the Corvette coil covers, but it worked better for me to use the nitrous solenoid (blue, in the back) on an unbent bracket so the supply line would clear the windshield wiper motor and everything else. The fuel bracket I did bend, but used it to bring the solenoid up, rather than put it down where space is tight. The fuel supply is from the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (after removing the core from the Schrader valve). I added the fuel pressure gauge, figuring I was defeating the connection, so might as well make it work this way (the adapter is a pretty cool piece).




The plate uses the intake o-ring gasket, then has an NOS-supplied gasket between the plate and TB. They include a throttle cable relocation bracket to move it 1/2" forward to match what the TB has moved forward. I installed jets for a 75 shot (purchased at the same speed shop where I got the fuel pressure gauge and adapter - the kit has jets for 100, 125, and 150 shot).




The installation instructions don't say boo about installing the microswitch. The only way I knew this bracket was for the microswitch was from the parts list. I presumed this is where the bracket goes - the instructions told about installing the relocation bracket, then told you to attach the throttle cable bracket to it with the stock bolts. There were other errors and omissions as well. I'm going to avail myself to them as an instructions editor...




I hope to get the electrical done tonight. I'm going to add a purge solenoid (which I already have).

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Good write up as Im going to be putting in a NOS system into my car soon. Its my first time dealing with NOS but I might as do it now as I have the kit but I need the spacer still for behind the throttle body.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Discovered my Edelbrock purge solenoid has different size fittings, so I couldn't use it. Probably won't get something before next weekend, so I'll have to figure out how important purging is to me.

The microswitch bracket, it turns out, has to go behind the throttle cable bracket (which moves the throttle cable bracket out even farther). But, the switch and throttle align with each other well now, and it all seems very solid - much more so than the carb setup did. The throttle crank engages the switch with a little to spare before WOT.




From the side. Sorry I'm not showing it engaged, didn't have anyone available to hold the throttle down while taking the pic.




And, everything complete. It's a little busier under the hood now, with the 2-step and nitrous stuff running outside of the engine harness. The solenoid relay is in the bottom right corner of the picture, just behind the air inlet. When checking the solenoid operation, I discovered the coil pack hold-down bolts don't make a good ground - good thing I used them for the system check-out, because I was considering using one for the ground. I went to the firewall for the ground, which you can probably see in the picture, which seemed like a solid connection.




I routed the nitrous line through an available hole in the firewall by the steering column, then routed it over the steering column, in front of the console, then down the console on the passenger side to about the seat belt anchor. There is way more line than needed, so I just coiled it around the bottle mounts, with the end right under where the bottle valve will be. Should be able to coil it under the seat should the occasion arise to remove the bottle mount and put the seat back in.

I put the arm switch in the dash, directly above the heater controls. I can reach it without too much strain, but I figured it would be better to have it out of the way to prevent unintentional arming. It has an LED indicator, so there is a visual indication of its state.

Sorry I didn't get pictures of those two things.

I don't think I'll test it this Friday, as this is a points race night, and I'm close to the top in the two classes I'm running. Most likely I'll save the testing for the day of the race that it's needed, although I may try running it the night before in a different race series. We'll see. I may get antsy and run it sooner. I'll be out of town next week so I won't have a test & tune available (there was one tonight, but I wasn't ready, obviously).

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

you could always purge through the motor...i can't imagine it'd hurt it on such a small shot.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Exactly when would I do that? The reason for purging is to have liquid at the solenoid from the start. As close to the run the better. If I take off and wait for the nitrous to catch up, it's going to do that at a different time each run. I was thinking I'd crack the line at the solenoid in the staging lanes before I strap in at least.

I also realized my line pressure gauge adapter is a different size from the Edelbrock system (-4) to the NOS system (-6), so I'm going to have to go to the speed shop to get that (since the new NOS bottle doesn't have a gauge port). While I'm there, I'll check if they have a purge kit in the -6 size. I could use the Edelbrock piece with adapters, but I'd rather not do that.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Arm system and blip wot a couple times before you stage.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Oh, you mean one of the things the NOS instructions say NOT to do...

The speed shop was willing to sell me a purge kit, but they said why not use another in-line 6 AN male-female with 1/8" NPT port and mount your Edelbrock purge solenoid to it? Good question. So, that was a simple fix to my "problem". In the process, they lost about $130 in sales - kinda like going back to a place like that...

Getting time to install it is going to be a challenge. Racing tomorrow night, out-of-town family gathering Saturday and Sunday, business meeting Monday night, fly out of town early Tuesday morning, get back in town Friday afternoon, race Friday evening, and the race I need the nitrous for Saturday morning. Maybe I can install it at the track tomorrow night...

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

I've just flipped the arming switch during my burnout before. worked pretty well until i picked up a purge.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

After getting home last night, and after mowing the lawn, and after unloading the car of track stuff and changing the front tires to the "regular" ones, I sneaked in some time to work on it. An elbow fitting allowed clear spacing for the purge solenoid and a clean route for the nitrous line. The car originally had a rear windshield wiper and washer, which were eliminated years ago. The washer used a stand-along pump that tee'd into the front washer supply line, in the rear driver side corner of the engine compartment. I've actually been using it for the front washer since the one built into the wiper motor hasn't worked since I got the car. I mounted a relay next to this pump, and will unplug the electrical connector and plug the relay activation wire into it via a spade connector. The dash switch is a simple momentary rocker type. Avoided having to mount another switch and route another wire. And I'm pretty sure I won't need the windshield washer while staging...

On a side note, I went to the track Friday for our regular ET series race, in which I run two classes. We get 2 time trials per class, and for some reason, my 60' times were all over the place. I finally realized after the 1st round of the first class that there may be a connection to the fact that I couldn't seem to find a good place to put my right foot (which I only thought was odd because I was wearing the same shoes I had been before). I looked under the dash, and realized when I put the panel back up in place after running the nitrous arm switch wire and nitrous line, instead of getting it over the top of the stud above the accelerator pedal, I had it under the stud (the tab that is supposed to go over the stud broke off years ago). As I grabbed a nut driver to pull it out, they called us to the lanes for the first round of the 2nd class - I took the time to pull it out, but not to reinstall it properly. That made all the difference, and my 60's settled down and improved. I was able to guess how much to take off my dial to get by that round, then had 1000' to use from there on out. Managed to get to the 3rd round in the class in which I'm leading points, and extend the lead over #2 a little; and move from 6th to 3rd by getting to the 4th round of the other (7 rounds to win both of them).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The day finally arrived. After running NA Friday night, after getting home at midnight Thursday.

To give you a comparison, a representative run:
DA - 9442'
Wind - 5 mph tail
RT ----- .010
60' ---- 1.879
330' --- 5.371
660' --- 8.289
MPH --- 84.17
1000' -- 10.819
ET ----- 12.947
MPH --- 106.31

It got better as the night went on, especially 60' (down to 1.80) and ETs in the 12.85-ish range (rain came through a couple of times and cooled it down). RT's were in the 30's (problem with that is in the 3rd round, the kid in the other lane had a .002...).

I decided to run the same 26x9.5-14 Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOTs I normally run after measuring them and the 27x11.50-15's of the same brand and type - they were only 1/2" taller. Just dropped from the 19 psi I normally run to 16 psi in the smaller slicks.

First run with the nitrous on Saturday, the purge solenoid wouldn't open. So, I had to make the pass without knowing the state of the nitrous in the line.
DA - 9136
Wind - Calm
RT ---- .091
60' ---- 1.726
330' --- 4.914
660' --- 7.624
MPH --- 90.75
1000' -- 9.969
ET ----- 11.950
MPH --- 113.86

At the hit, it simply died, then took off like a banshie. I know I hit the light, but the car simply didn't move. No problem with traction.

Back in the pits, I tried to figure out why the purge solenoid didn't open. Electrical was all good, so I cracked the line (after shutting off the bottle first, of course) to vent the pressure. Then the solenoid would click. I held the purge energized while turning on the bottle, and it flowed fine. After not cycling it for about half a minute, it wouldn't open again. So, figured I'd have to have it open when I opened the bottle valve to make sure I had liquid at the solenoid. Oh, and the solenoid was hot to the touch, so I started spraying it down to cool it off.

Doing that after the burnout:
DA - 9328'
Wind - 5 mph cross tail
RT - .074
60' ---- 1.693
330' --- 4.890
660' --- 7.612
MPH --- 90.50
1000' -- 9.967
ET ---- 11.956
MPH -- 113.46

Again, it died at the hit, but recovered more quickly this time. Again, I was sure I hit the light, but RT was terrible. The tires did chirp a teeny bit when the nitrous did kick in. I short shifted by a couple hundred RPMs in case it picked up a bunch, but obviously it didn't, and I had plenty of RPMs left at the top end, even with the "short" tires. Last time trial.

So, I wondered if the line from the solenoid to the plate needed to be "filled" more. Of course, it will bleed down, but perhaps would reduce the lag. For the first round of eliminations, I opened the valve while the purge was energized while rolling to the burnout box. After letting go of the line lock button and shifting to 3rd, with the system armed, I floored it - Not even for a second, but it just about spit me over the start line. I staged as normal, the purge solenoid worked after prestaging, and the results were:

DA - 9358'
Wind - 5 MPH cross
RT ---- .092
60' ---- 1.692
330' --- 4.895
660' --- 7.622
MPH --- 90.33
1000' -- 9.984
ET ---- 11.980
MPH -- 112.59

Again, on its face at the hit, and I thought I hit the tree. Trouble is the guy in the other lane hit it to the tune of .005, although he just about gave back the stripe (.0011 MOV). But, my day was done. Oh, dropped tire pressure to 15 psi, and again, just a tiny chirp when the nitrous finally hit.

Not sure why it's dying on the line like that, but I have a couple of weeks to think about it. Considering something to engage the nitrous when hitting 2nd gear - should allow me to launch "normally", and if it sputters when engaging, shouldn't have the disastrous effects on RT like I saw today - while still allowing me to run well under the required 12.75.

It's either that, or get the '57 running...

BumpaD82

And for a bigger shot later ... You could pull some timing with the IAT trick search for it on LS1tech.

~DaVe

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

where was your bottle pressure at? Too high of pressure will cause the solenoids not to open, or be delayed on opening. It's responding well to that small of a shot down the track though! once you get the starting line issues sorted it'll really get moving.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You may be on to something there. It was probably over 1000 psi. First I had to warm the bottle, then I had to cool it. I probably didn't do as good a job of cooling it (wet towel) as warming (sun). I don't recall having that problem (too much pressure keeping the solenoids from opening) with the system on the '57 (except for the purge solenoid).

Doesn't help that I couldn't put a gauge directly on the bottle. Next time I'll use the one with the bottle gauge so I don't have to pressurize the system, or disconnect the line and cap the line gauge to find out what the bottle pressure is. Pulling into the water box is too late to find out...

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Everything I've read says 900psi is max.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I thought I was clear on the purpose here. A 50 shot would be fine with me. All I want is to be able to qualify and run the number on a hot summer day with a head wind (although my qualifying position wasn't bad with the ET it ran Saturday).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

According to the NOS instructions:

"These combinations are designed to be used with 950 psi of nitrous bottle pressure and 43 psi of flowing fuel pressure." (I verified with them 43 psi was a cut & paste typo, should be 58 psi)

"NOS systems are calibrated for optimum performance with a bottle pressure of 900-950 psi. The pressure will change with temperature. Heater kits are thermostatically controlled to keep the bottle near 85° F to provide correct pressure."

The troubleshooting guide makes no mention of a problem caused by excessive bottle pressure. But, it does make sense (as demonstrated by the purge solenoid).

Cosmik Debris

Do you just purge during the burnout or do you do your burnout on the nitrous?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The sequence for that pass (and that pass only) was:
- Motioned to the water box by the track crewman
- As I rolled forward, held the purge solenoid on with left hand, opened nitrous bottle with right hand (guess which hand that left for steering...)
- Kept the purge solenoid open until liquid was coming out the vent line, kept rolling forward to the water box
- Stopped past the water, armed the nitrous system, hit the purge again, got liquid
- Did the burnout starting in 2nd, only partial throttle required to get tires turning and up to 6000 RPMs
- Let go of the line lock when the tires started pulling down the engine to about 5500 RPMs, shifted to 3rd
- When the tires gripped, floored it for about half a second - it reared up and shot forward
- Stopped about 15' before the start line (usually a good 30' from start line after burnout complete)
- Ratcheted shifter to 1st, engine died
- Ratcheted shifter to neutral, restarted engine, back to 1st while feathering the throttle (I don't normally have to do this)
- Prestaged, hit the purge button, liquid out line, gave it a 2nd squirt
- Staged, left on 3rd amber

Bottle pressure being too high makes the most sense. Any delay will create an instant rich condition, as the fuel solenoid won't be affected. I'll make it a point to keep it below 950 psi next time out.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

everything i've read thus far has also said to basically ignore the NOS instructions, lol!

i'm pulling most of my nitrous info from the Induction Solutions facebook page and from YellowBullet's nitrous section.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Touche...

You know what they say, "Trust, but verify." My biggest complaints from the installation part of the instructions were omissions and lack of detail. The 43 psi thing was me paying attention to detail.

I assume the designers know their system, but we all know the "real world" can teach even the designer a thing or two.

For sure once it kicked in, it performed as expected.

I'll keep the bottle pressure down. Whatever it takes. Might run it once or twice this coming Friday when I have 4 time trials just to see if I've learned my lesson.