91_B4C_RS

Been contemplating shortening the spacer between the sway bar bushings on driversside to help straighten up the launch.

I have own z28 rear sway bar with poly link bushings and Umi location spacer jobies for my 9" rear.

I know a anti roll bar would be ideal. But have any of you experimented with doing this.

How much should I shorten the spacer on the drivers side sway bar link as a starting point?

Thanks

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i tried it. shortened it up a whole 1" and didn't seem to do anything at all.

bmr anti roll bar ftw

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

took out a little over 1/2" and it made all the difference in the world. Add in a passenger air bag at 15-20psi and it'll be straight up launches.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i'm going to have to disagree with steve on this one (doesn't happen often). i did everything you told me to on that one and it just didn't work.

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

I had tossed that idea around a while back, but its getting an ARB from either trz or spohn when it gets a 9 inch. I figured no sense in playing around with it.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

its still a wet noodle mounted under the rear axle. i would run the thickest one i could get. (if you don't want to buy an aftermarket one)
an airbag and whatever else may help a little bit, but it won't be anything like a drag bar.

91_B4C_RS

Thanks for the input guys. I might try it just for the hell of it can't see how it would hurt. Money is tight now especially with this wedding in a month. Lol

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

some folks say it helps, some don't. it's basically free if you have a way to shorten that link (which i imagine you do, lol) so do it. it won't HURT that's for sure.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

I run my stock bar with a 1 1/2" shortened left link and a bag in the right rear at 15 lbs. Helps a lot in keeping it launching flat. No doubt a drag bar would work better. But mine still sees a lot of street time as well as some autocross and road course time were a drag bar wouldnt work at all.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I was running the 24mm rear bar if that changes anyone else's results, it's the largest put under a thirdgen. I'm sure the smaller ones flexed more

Shagwell

It helped on my GTA back in the day, but is only a slight/fine tuning aid for an otherwise reasonably well dialed/working car. - A real anti-roll is where it's at for drag racing.

91_B4C_RS

http://s691.photobucket.com/albums/v...VID00655-1.mp4

Video from last yr when I was running 11.50's. Had shifter issues it popped into neutral onlaunch. Lots of twist

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

An airbag is a good temporary solution that doesn't cost much. I'm actually still using air bags, I haven't coughed up the money for an anti roll bar yet. Its not the ideal solution but does help a lot. I went to the test and tune tonight, I was hoping to see you run.

91_B4C_RS

Had to work tonight. I was there Sunday. Got it in the 10's. I will be there next Wednesday. Gonna work on making a drag bar like this http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racin...-sway-bar.html
out of a 99 blazer front sway bar. 1.3" diameter with 1/2 rod ends

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

very interesting, do it!

91_B4C_RS

1999 4wd blazer front sway bar. $40.00
1/2 rod ends/ jam nuts. $23.00
Misc steel. $30.00
Used existing sphon sway bar u bolts etc

$93.00!!!!

1/2 all thread . free!!!

Bar diameter is 1.310" roughly 33.5 mm

before


after

GTA matt

iTrader: (1)

That turned out really nice. What did you do at the end of the sway bar? Cut it off and weld in a bolt or all-thread?

91_B4C_RS

Cut about 3" off end of sway bar on each side . Welded 1/2
all thread.

Im very happy with it

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that does look pretty good, i'm interested in seeing how it works out for ya

91_B4C_RS

thanks man. between the IC change and drag bar im hoping to drop anything off the 60' would make me happy.

i still need to set it up.

shopn say jack the front end up evenly till front end is barely off ground. then adjust links with someone in the car so the the passenger side ride height is 1/16th inch higher. sound bout right?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

^^that's exactly what i did

Shagwell

Looks great man. - The only thing I might add would be a section of tubing that will fit over the bar, with a washer welded on one end. Slip it over the all-thread & bar, then weld in place. - Lots of load placed directly on the weld holding that all-thread in place, that would be a reasonably simple way to help span some of it out.

91_B4C_RS

I added small poly bushings behind each rod end to help keep noise to a minimum and to space it off the welded area.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Where do you jack by?

I may try something like that if my other thoughts don't work, but I have another idea first, since I want to go from street/handling to drag quickly I'm thinking of taking the biggest 'normal' bar I can find (probably a 24mm stocker is the biggest I own) and modifying attachment points. Looks like the drag bars get you roughly 3x the rate of a stock type bar. By shortening the attachment points on the arms on the bar by 2" you get a little more than 2/3 the rate of a dedicated drag bar, which I'm betting will be close enough to preload enough to make it work, so if there's room without hitting the shock mounts I'm going to try cutting off the ends of a stock bar and making them adjustable over a 2" or so range.

91_B4C_RS

jacked it up by the center of the front k member

everything you say seems to make sense in my book. good luck with the build