gsxrfann

I am new to 3rd Gen cars. I have wanted one since I was 17, and finally found a deal (to me) on an 88 camaro that is cloned to look like an IROC. The car is a T-top car.
Now for the questions:
My local track is 1/8mile.
I want my car to be streetable, but run mid to high 6's in the 1/8
Other than drivetrain, just how much money am I looking at spending on the car to get it to hold together chasis wise?
I don't want it to ruin the car because it will be a regular (not daily) street driven car. I am even going to keep the a/c.
I don't want to break the bank getting it ready either.


What all do I need? I am hoping to find some used stuff on here to help with the budget!!

Any and all help is very appreciated!!

Thank you

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

High to mid 6's is roughly 10's or so in the quartermile. Thats a impressive goal from your car exspecially if its stock.

Depending on if you want all motor, nitrous, boost the price of power may vary.
Can you do all the work yourself? I would think it would be hard to put a rough price on modifications to make a car run 10's in the 1/4 mile.

Im sure someone else will chime in and leave more details as Im not the best person to give advice about engine mods on a V8 or making sure your frame and such is in good working order with power like that.

I do you that you will need frame connectors, slicks, a great converter, better gears in the rear, and theres more suspention stuff as the list can go on and on, and im really doubting that your 700R4 tranny will hold up to a 6 second 1/8 mile pass, but I could be wrong.

In the engine dept, a better fuel pump, cam, exhaust mods, ecm tuning would help, p+p heads/or just plain better ones, roller rockers, upgraded ignition, and this could go on and on depending on what you want out of the car, the $$ you can spend, the ability you have to work on the engine.

Just my 2 cents.... as I had n20 before on a mustang and didnt like it(because I used it too much) but, nitrous is the cheepest way to make Hp untill you start filling that bottle up every other day. Thats why I finally went the turbo route, the initial cost was higher and more difficult but now I dont have to keep on shelling out 50$ to fill my tank up as nitorus is getting more and more exspencive.

Beeman

High 6's or even low 7's will require quite a bit along with some money. First off if the track is sanctioned in any way you will need a roll bar once you get past mid 7's or they will show you the gate.
For low 7's high 6's you're going to need a new drivetrain which usually includes a bolt in replacement rear and an adjustable torque arm. You'll need subframe connectors and a roll bar/cage. You'll need a good trans, turbo 350 will do it on a budget and a good converter. Then you'll need a pretty stout small block to get into the 6's.

gsxrfann

I know that a new motor, trans, and rear end will be needed. I was just curious as to the chasis setup. That is the part I am most nervous about. I know these cars have weak frames (especially with t-tops).

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

sub frame connectors before you put any power to it. I'd run a th400 if you plan to run around on the street.

gsxrfann

It is going to be a long build process because I race motorcycles and have a family. Whatever I do, I am going to keep it street legal. I am even going to keep the a/c on it. I want to be able to enjoy driving the car. It wont be used to dragrace a whole lot, but on the occasion that I wanna play or let the wife play, I want it to be fast. I do plan on attending some shows and cruise ins. I am going to restore the car as I go along as well. I know in the end I will have WAY too much money in it, but it will be something that the wife and I can enjoy together.
At first I was thinking pro street, but that is just too much of a hassle, because I am not going to tub the car or put a roll cage in it. My racing will be mainly on test-n-tune nights. If I could get mid 6's to high 6's I would be extremely happy.
There is SO much that I want to do to the car that I really don't know where to start. That is why I am am looking for used stuff as much as possible. I like nitrous, but I know that it is hard on a motor. I think a blower may be WAY over my budget. And I am not too familiar with turbos.
I need all the help I can get, so please chime in with ideas, opinions, or used parts!!

Thanks Folks!!!

Beeman

No track that wants to remain open is going to allow 6's with no cage, test and tune or not. It's their insurance and sanctioning body rules.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Sell that car and buy a turn key race car, otherwise you will spend 3x's the amount of money to do it on your own. To run those times reliably figure 10-15k after buying a car to build it yourself. Especially keeping it full weight and a/c. Sounds like you have no clue what it takes to run those kinds of times or the maintenance that goes along with it.

gsxrfann

Actually you would be partially correct. I am kind of new to building my own car the way I want, but I am not new to drag racing or drag cars. My main problem is wanting to keep the streetable. I know it can be done, because I have seen plenty of them. I am just starting out, so I am trying to find ideas from people that have built fast street cars. I am also trying to save on my budget by using used parts when available.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

streetable 10-11 second car?

You need big cubic inches or boost.

The average thirdgen probably weighs around 3500-3700 lbs with a driver. Any mods you do or dont do will affect that.

If your car is 3550 lbs, you will need around 550+ fwhp to get into the 10's.

You can do that with a 383/400 with or without a turbo. You can do that with great heads on a 6.0 Gen III/IV engine too. If you really want a car that you can drive around, you will probably need a built T56, high gears, and a turbo/nitrous to pull it off.

And a cage.

gsxrfann

Thank you. This the type of info I am looking for!!!

88IROC350TPI

My old car... 3490lbs with me in it... Besides some of the usual weight removal mods, the chassis/suspension were completely stock... 3.92 rear, 27x10.5 Hoosier Quick Time Pro tire, stock rebuilt TH350 with an Art Carr 9.5" nitrous converter (flashes about 3500RPM on motor)

-350 with around 10.5:1 SCR (SRP pistons, 6" I-beam Scat rods, Scat cast steel crank)
-Canfield 195 heads straight out of the box
-Custom solid flat tappet from Cam Motion
-PP Hurricane intake
-750 Speed Demon with the jetting up (if I remember correctly) 3 from out of the box front and back as well as bigger squirters.
-MSD 6AL / Pro-Billet timing locked out at about 35*
-Hooker long tubes into a single 3" catback.

Car ran on premium pump gas and actually got somewhere in the neighborhood of 14mpg cruising around... It had plenty of street manners and was more reliable than any of my other vehicles... Best pass was 11.25 @ 121mph on motor with a crappy 1.7X 60ft... 1/8 ET was like 7.0X @ 96mph

Now... Imagine this motor in a 3rd gen that is a few hundred pounds lighter, has actual suspension/chassis mods so it'd hook, and some bigger exhaust... There is no doubt it'd run well into the 10's on motor. Put a plate on it and you have a 9 second car.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i know this isnt a 3rd gen, but it should give you an idea of a combo that would reach your goals.
my ls1 4th gen went 7.40's n/a with 376rwhp. it was full weight with a/c. 1.53 60'.
12 bolt rear
ram 9000 clutch
torque arm
lca's
eibach pro springs
kyb adjustable shocks up front, stock in rear
26x11.5x16 et streets on stock wheels

a small shot of nitrous would have put it in the 6's. made many 200+ mile trips in it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

mild 355 with a single or twin turbos zz3astros iroc was going what 7.3 in the 1/8th on a bone stock tpi 350 l98 at 14 psi and on street tires no less

swap the tpi for a vic jr efi and put something like a 224/224 cam or even slightly larger depending on the turbos and how much rpm u want to turn and the car will run into the 6's, will be very streetable since it will drive like stock when out of boost