irocket87

ok so right now i have a 87 lb9 and thinking of some winter ideas. My car runs consistant 15.5s and hoping to add a stall and 373s to put me in the mid to high 14s. wut would you guys say a 75 or 100 shot would do for my car in the 1/4? would a 305 tpi handle that well? trying to pick up the most in the 1/4 for the buck. im not really too educated on nitrous and it seems many have picked up almost a full second correct me if im wrong.

AlkyIROC

Going from 15.5 with a 150 shot should get you into the mid 13's. A 100 shot, not as much. Add in the expected upgrades and a 100 shot should get you back into the mid 13 range, maybe even a low 13.

HP required to go faster goes up exponentially the faster you go. A 100 shot in a 15-16 second car is a big increase, at least a second or a second and a half. A 100 shot for my car might get me another 1/4 second.

The majority of V8 engines that are in good condition, should be able to handle a 100-150 shot of NOS. If you have an old, tired, high mileage engine, don't expect large gains from NOS.

irocket87

awesome thanks for the info! isnt there like a form of spray when in WOT? its a street car that id like to take to the track and put down some good numbers. How much would a set up for a 150 shot cost?

sabien

Go to www.summitracing.com. They the WOT system you want.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

You use the nitrous at wide open throttle only. As for cost, pick a kit and there ya go. For instance, a NOS brand kit 100-150 shot will run you $570 plus whatever your local shop charges for filling the bottle.

AlkyIROC

NOS is designed to be only used at WOT. If you bypass the WOT switch and activate the NOS while at part throttle, you will cause lots of damage to your engine.

All the kits have everything you need to install NOS on an engine including good documentation, switches, wiring etc.

NOS itself doesn't cause damage. NOS is an oxidizer. It increases the amount of oxygen inside the cylinders. More air means you can burn more fuel. More burnt fuel means more HP. Nos systems are calibrated with a NOS and fuel jet. By adjusting these jets, you control how big of a shot goes into the engine but like I said, NOS doesn't cause the damage. Running the engine lean from not enough fuel is what causes the damage. Injecting NOS/fuel at part throttle makes an extremely rich mixture in the cylinders and if the throttle isn't at WOT to allow more air in, the mixture will ignite at the wrong time causing lots of damage. That's why the circuitry always has to go through a WOT switch so that there's no chance of it ever coming on unless the throttle is at WOT.

NOS is addictive. First price out how much it will cost to fill a 10 pound bottle. You'll be surprised to find how fast a bottle will become empty and how much you'll pay to get your next fix.

You can always buy a 100 pound NOS bottle from a welding supply shop and buy/make a filling station to greatly reduce the cost of buying NOS. The cost of the bottle and filling station will set you back in the beginning but will pay for itself eventually. It really depends on how much NOS you use. Filling a 10 pound bottle at least once a week over the course of a year can easily justify a filling station.

I haven't bought NOS for at least 10 years now. Locally, I think it's at least $8/pound now so that's $80 to fill a 10 pound bottle assuming it's completely empty. The cost of NOS in a 100 pound bottle might be $3-4/pound.

We have a local racer who uses NOS to bracket race. He brings 4 bottles to the track and has a bottle warmer on his trailer. It's like a mini hot tub. He has his own filling station at home. After each pass down the track, the bottle gets cold and the pressure decreases. To stay consistent, he swaps out bottles after every run with a new warmed up bottle that's at full pressure.

irocket87

well than that wouldnt really be good say if i were to stall my car from a dig than mash it right? itll be more of a street car and to the track here and there. theres a lot of forced induction 4 cyls on steriods in my area and they believe in racing from a roll so this will help me out and it will disengage when i let off right?

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

if its set up correctly, it'll come on when you got WOT, then off when you aren't at WOT.


also check out nitrousoutlet.com. their stuff is top notch and customer service is great

AlkyIROC

Other than the weight advantage the small cars will have, generally from a roll, a NOS car will out accelerate a turbo car at the start. As soon as you go to WOT, the NOS kicks in instantly. A turbo car will have a slight delay as boost starts to build but can easily make a lot more top end power farther down the road as boost builds.

Anybody who wants to do a "rolling start" race usually has no traction or torque to get off the line from a standing start. That's where the V8 will do better especially if you have good tires for traction.

You can always use a momentary activation button to turn on the NOS exactly when you want it. Foot is too the floor at WOT and the car starts to accelerate. Push a momentary button on the shifter or steering wheel and the NOS kicks in. As soon as you let go of the button or lift your foot off the throttle (WOT switch), the NOS turns off. Pushing the button when the WOT switch isn't activated won't activate the NOS so there's no problems if you accidentally push the button at part throttle.

irocket87

awesome this has helped me out alot for what im thinkn on doing and a cost effective way to pick up power. So i can get everything i need in one kit than? might save my money and do this instead of a few other things i was planning on

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

if you call nitrous outlet and tell them what you want to do, they can get you set up with prices, and they have some pretty good accessory kits too

Shagwell

A few pointers:

- You could easily run a plate behind the throttle body or just aa simple generic EFI kit that has a single nozzle you put in the ducting in front of your throttle body.

- Any properly wired kit will utilize a WOT switch for at least part of the activation circuit.

- MSD and a few other electronics companies offer an RPM "window switch". It's designed so that you can set a certain RPM range for the nitrous to activate/de-activate. Basically, anytime the system is armed and the WOT switch is activated, it would activate the nitrous once the RPM is up to the setting. - This is very comon for street type systems as you don't want the nitrous comoning on while your RPM is too low. Typical street gearing is too high(numerically low) and most stret converters stal spped is too low. If the nitrous activates at too low of RPM, you risk having a large bog and/or intake back-fire that can cause a lot of damage.

- Running a nitrous system a little lean is not nearly as damaging as running it too rich; especially with cast or hyper pistons. Being a bit lean will not torch the motor the first time it's used, but will over-time cause damage. Being too rich can indeed pinch and/or break ring-lands very quickly. - Oil in the cylinders is the biggest cause of failure when using nitrous. Oil signifigantly decreases the octane of the fuel and will cause severe detonation with nitrous.

- Per 10# bottle average cost in my area is around $4 per pound. You will not empty the bottle before needing it refilled, as once it starts getting low you will not be able to reach or maintain the pressure needed for the system to function properly.

irocket87

well will there need to be any other modifications done to the car/motor? like i sed im not nitrous or boost savy so can i basically go out buy the kit hopefully hook everything up right and call it good? the last thing i wanna do is blow the motor or fry a piston over not enough knoweledge or hooking something up wrong.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

another option is to pick up a vortec 5.7L out of a 96-98 truck out of the junkyard and have it gone through and toss a cam in it and you'll run 12s with a 3600 stall and 3.73 rear gears. Then you wouldn't need nitrous. The cost would be similar after you buy all the nitrous stuff and a few fills of it.

irocket87

totally agree, im just trying to keep it stock bolt on 305 with a shot of spray when i want/need it, sounds dumb i know but i wanna be one of those guys to say they got beat by a 305

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Well I had an old carbed 305 that went 11.60 on a 150 shot and 13.0 at 103 on motor. I ported the heads and tossed in an older roller cam grind and 3600 stall and would hit it right out of the gate the whole way down the track. Was cheap fun, just a performer rpm and a 750 double pumper with a $100 summit brand distributor.

irocket87

thats pretty fast for a 305 lol

Shagwell

There's been more than a few quick/fast 305's.

For note though, the vortec 350 would make more power to begin with and with the vortec heads would be better on gas to boot.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

agreed you'd be WAY ahead in ET to just put in the vortec 350 combo and save all the costs. It was winter and I was bored and spent probably a months worth of 1-2 hour evenings doing those heads up, made a huge mess and IMO was only worth it way back then because vortec heads or similar weren't available back then.

faster1k

goin from a base of 14.24@97 (l98 with full exhaust, no cat) to a 70 shot a foot before the MAF 13.45@103

irocket87

true, ive got a pretty built 350 that i could throw in it and run 12s but its in my 69 Camaro . if i find a big block that i wouldnt mind throwin in my 69 ill prolly just throw my 350 in my iroc but until than im just trying to keep it bolt ons, one day the irocs will be worth alot more money, the irocs are already steadily climbing in value.