mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yup, third roll bar in about 8 months. this is of a member from another boards car that i put in a roll over the weekend. i also put in spohn sfc's, and lca rb's, and i built an stb for it as well. turned out pretty good. the kit is an S&W 8pt that i bought through spohn and i got the door bars that clear the handles, as well as the swing out kit. i also put an x-brace in the rear but i don't have pics of that yet. i'm hoping the owner will take more pictures of the car all put back together and i'll get those up too.







like i said, i'll try to get some updated finished pictures up in a few days.

likeenz24

iTrader: (2)

So do the door bars that clear the stock handles just curve in slightly to clear the armrest?

F-BIRD'88

On the bar you put in your Camaro, that you made the rear bars go over the back seat. Was that the same kit and you just added a few bars to it?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yup!

no, the kit i put in my camaro is a CE kit. the over the seat bars were an additional bar. i bought. i got all that stuff through summit. after doing this kit, i think i'm gonna cut my door bars out and put in some like this so my handles will clear.

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

Do you have any pics of the door bars clearing the arm rest? Does anybody other than Spohn sell these without buying a kit?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

they're manufactured by S&W Race Cars, call them up and see if you can buy just the door bars.

92stealthramz28

Here's a pic of my chassis eng. cage. I had the pillar bars angle inwards alittle. So that the door bars would clear my arm rests.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

How in the f..k is a passenger supposed to sit i there with all that stuff on the floor board might as well take the pass seat out and lose a few pounds

92stealthramz28

Panel going to be mounted under the dash. Just had it on the floor for pics

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

on it's way back together now that it's back at the owners house:

likeenz24

iTrader: (2)

Is the door bar resting on the seat?

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

WOW matt that turned out great....So was that a nice kit? if so that will be the one I will get.

86iroc2try

geeze matt...im about to bring mine down to you to do for me. haha you're a pro now!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it is a nice kit, but i have nearly 40 hours in it...(hehe, and i did it in two days!!! )

bring it on! (please note that i will need the car left with me for 1 full week, lol!)

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

So what one do you recomend, since you will be ptting mine in...LOL

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

at this point the only thing i can really recommend is DON'T buy a jegster kit. if you want to keep the door handles this is definitely the kit to go with. the Jig-Notched Wolfe Racecraft bar is very nice, but will need to be modded a little to work in a thirdgen.

pm me if you want and we can work it out.

Shagwell

looks great Matt.

Hmm, now I'm wondering who is wrong. - I've seen those door bars installed the other way around, with the offest bends near the top.

I bend up all my own stuff, but the S&W kit is one of the nicest fitting kits I have seen.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

plan on custom building my own cage. dads been working at a metal shop for 20 years now so he gets 20' sticks of tubing for VERY cheap. he can get 2 or 3 for free but after awhile hes gotta pay about 10 bucks a stick. and yeah im building one sometime in the spring. i like that door bar deal where the bar actually comes off. pretty sweet.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i've always put the offset bends near the top which would leave the door bar off the seat cushion then.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

we mocked it up both ways, and it looked retarded with the bend up top. this was the preference of the owner of the car. it fits tight to the door handle and follows the lines of the interior without being in the way. it actually looks much more natural in person than the pictures lead on.

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at installing those swing out devices in my car, cause they're cheap.
Chris Alston & NHRA both said they are not legal in cars running 990 & faster.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

this is true, but this particular car would need more roll cage in general if he went faster than 10.0...which is not what the car is setup for. it's setup for a low 11 high 10 second car and be able to push through the twisties too.

Shagwell

I understand that. I'm running a downward bent side bar in my vert, so they're not legal. I can only technically pass as a 4-point, but it's still a full street car, so I wasn't giving up access.

1QWIKZ

Here is a pic of my door bar I used a portable hydraulic tubing bender and this is what I came up with...

squeeezer

i have that same kit with the exception of the X bar between the rear struts
it truelly is the finest fitting 3rd gen kit and a great price too
those door bars can be set up anyway u wish with a trist of the wrist
my arm rests dont even squeek against the bars asnd there is alot of room from the seat (the cheap summit racing seats)

stage20

iTrader: (3)

the main hoop is smaller and shorter on 4th gens and also not on the correct angle as a true 3rd gen hoop.
for shipping reasons, i ordered a chrome moly hoop from s/w racecars, and ordered tubing from the chassis shop to custom bend my cage.
i didnt want a prefab, and ups wont ship anything over 8ft.

the 4th gen hoops are at 43 degree, where as the 3rd gen specific is 53deg.
hug a lil tighter.
i know what i have wont be as tight as if i bent it, but its the tightest prefabbed one i could find.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

to be completely honest, i sat and looked at all my pictures of all the kits after you said something. the competition engineering kit actually fits against the side of the car a little tighter.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

in my case i am doing moly tubing. comp didnt offer it, so they got the axe.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

oh...i wish i had a TIG machine...i'd have done mine in 'moly.

car_fixer

yup hours of standing on your head welding...you sure you want to tig Matt? The weight differance does add up though.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

i wish i had a TIG myself, or knew how. i know a chassis builder and a local speed shop does it resaonable as well.
im going to MIG in my floor plates. after i get all the tubes bent, harness and seats in tack it with the MIG, then get it all TIG'd into place.
im all about trying to keep weight off the car, or i wouldnt have went this route.
new motor should have been an aluminum block, but thats a whole different story too.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

are you going to try to retain all four seats? i'm curious about your final weight. mine will be getting weighed soon i hope. should be a nice compare (your 'moly bar car with an iron block to my MS bar car with an aluminum block)

stage20

iTrader: (3)

i dont know about the rear seats. i had custom covers done on my front kirkeys's, so id have to get my rears done to match (150-200 bucks)
im going to bend the rear bars to accept a seat no matter.
after everything is back in the car ill see how i feel. im one of those guys who likes full interior, now i feel like a hypocrit.
if its clean, thats whats going to matter. i try not to half a$$ stuff.

dont know if i can compete with you in total weight. my car is a pig. its stipped in most peoples terms, but the 6.0 iron block weighs is down, along with a 9" housing, 4th gen dash and door panels add a few pounds too.
i also have 21 pounds of dynamat on my floor that i got tired of scraping off. i cleaned enough for the floor plates, so im stopping there.
i am however, going to weigh each piece of tubing i put in so i know exactly what the bar weighs.
the main hoop is 16 pounds, and all 8 floor plates are 10 pounds.
the rest of the tubing is still in the shipping tube.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Dont know if it'll make you feel any better, i had to drop a bid off at the rock quarry so i hopped in my '00 sable/estimator car, while sitting and waiting i drove it onto the scale for fun......that car with me in it is 200lbs lighter than my firebird with me in it

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

well, my car with a for 9", 8pt roll bar with all four seats, an iron headed gen I, and me (290lbs) weighed in at 3320lbs.

i'm not exactly sure the weight difference between the ls1 and a a genI, but it seems pretty substancial. i did add a little weight back as i've gone back with an OD transmission instead of a th350. my wheels/tires also weigh a little more than my old ones (new BS street lights with radials vs. my old M/T ET Drag wheels with bias ply slicks...) and the stereo is going back in the car. i've also run the exhaust all the way back over the axle where as before it stopped right before it.

i'm shooting for a 3100-3200lbs race weight, but that would probably mean me loosing some weight off my person...not sure how that's gonna happen as i can't seem to loose any right now...

car_fixer

uhh, whats it run though?
just kidding, Im adding weight to the front of the car, with a bunch of tubing, in an attempt to keep the rear bumper off the ground, if this fails......I have other plans lol

stage20

iTrader: (3)

my car was 3160, 3400 raceweight with my big *** in it.

an ls1 aluminum block is going to save you about 40 pounds from a small block, but with iron heads, vs aluminum you should be closer to 80-90 pound figure.

when i swapped from an aluminum headed sbc to an iron 6.0 with aluminum heads, my car picked up 50 pounds.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

mine was right at 3040lbs without me. i've heard rumors of 150ish pounds savings...i may have not read something right...either way, it's gonna be in the 2950 range without me, tha'ts pretty good...we'll see if i can get any more weight off the car somewhere else too.