Et street question
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Et street question
I might be picking up a set of et streets. I wanted to know if I need a drive shaft loop to run them at the track?
If I do have to get one I'm thinking of getting the summit loop.
Part# SUM-G7900
Anyone have any idea of where this thing bolts up too? Please don't let it be the floor pan. Do you think The track would let me get away with it being weilded to the tourque arm?
If I do have to get one I'm thinking of getting the summit loop.
Part# SUM-G7900
Anyone have any idea of where this thing bolts up too? Please don't let it be the floor pan. Do you think The track would let me get away with it being weilded to the tourque arm?
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Car: 87Z
Engine: ?
Transmission: A4
Re: Et street question
Originally posted by CHRISMAN2000
I might be picking up a set of et streets. I wanted to know if I need a drive shaft loop to run them at the track?
Do you think The track would let me get away with it being weilded to the tourque arm?
I might be picking up a set of et streets. I wanted to know if I need a drive shaft loop to run them at the track?
Do you think The track would let me get away with it being weilded to the tourque arm?
You should be fine with it welded to the TQarm, as long as they are good welds.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 and quicker except vehicles running 13.00 and slower while using street tires.
By the rules, ET streets are considered "street tires". Nothing about needing a loop if you're slower the 13.99 and using slicks.
That Summit part is a generic loop and won't work properly on an F-body. You need the Lakewood LAK-18020 loop.
These loops are attached to the floor. That means having to remove the front seats and carpet to install the loop.
If you buy a Spohn torque arm, an NHRA spec loop is attached to the torque arm.
The loop must be installed no more than 6" from the front u-joint.
By the rules, ET streets are considered "street tires". Nothing about needing a loop if you're slower the 13.99 and using slicks.
That Summit part is a generic loop and won't work properly on an F-body. You need the Lakewood LAK-18020 loop.
These loops are attached to the floor. That means having to remove the front seats and carpet to install the loop.
If you buy a Spohn torque arm, an NHRA spec loop is attached to the torque arm.
The loop must be installed no more than 6" from the front u-joint.
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the response guys. I actually phoned the track yesterday they said the same thing. I also saw that lakewood driveshaft loop. They said no modifications are needed. Buggers.
It turns out the tires aren't et's anyways. They're michilens.
Oh well. Guess I should wait till I get my 9" before I buy a dirveshaft loop anyways. Then I can get the spohn "everything" tourque arm. And save myself some money.
It turns out the tires aren't et's anyways. They're michilens.
Oh well. Guess I should wait till I get my 9" before I buy a dirveshaft loop anyways. Then I can get the spohn "everything" tourque arm. And save myself some money.
#5
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IHRA doesnt require a loop until 11.99, weird
#6
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 L98
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Thats wierd. You have to admit NHRA does know they're safty. But I still like IHRA. Its a class your everyday Joe could race in. Mind you they'd have to win the lottory but it's just that much cheaper then NHRA.
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Car: Mustang
Engine: Bolt Ons
Transmission: Stock
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Get the loop. It is cheap insurance and is needed for ET Streets at my tracks! I just put mine in and even tho have never been checked (I run Cobra Rs up to the track) I am glad I have it for my own reasons!
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
My truck only runs low 15's but with close to 400 lb ft of torque from the big block I even have a loop on it. As mentioned above, it's just cheap insurance. If you blow a front u-joint, a loose driveshaft can cause a lot of damage or even total a car if at highway speed.
I have yet to see a u-joint or driveshaft fail down track. They always seem to break at the starting line.
I have yet to see a u-joint or driveshaft fail down track. They always seem to break at the starting line.
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It is track decision, My track is IHRA and they said there was a IHRA official there the week before telling them all cars running ET streets must have DS loop. Reguardless of being classified as a street tire...... They said they are to sticky to not have one.
I made mine and bolted it to the torque arm bushing bolts.
I made mine and bolted it to the torque arm bushing bolts.
#10
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Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
My truck only runs low 15's but with close to 400 lb ft of torque from the big block I even have a loop on it. As mentioned above, it's just cheap insurance. If you blow a front u-joint, a loose driveshaft can cause a lot of damage or even total a car if at highway speed.
I have yet to see a u-joint or driveshaft fail down track. They always seem to break at the starting line.
My truck only runs low 15's but with close to 400 lb ft of torque from the big block I even have a loop on it. As mentioned above, it's just cheap insurance. If you blow a front u-joint, a loose driveshaft can cause a lot of damage or even total a car if at highway speed.
I have yet to see a u-joint or driveshaft fail down track. They always seem to break at the starting line.
it ripped the rear axle out from under the car at about 140mph, the car did about 8 end over end flips at the big end.....guy got f-ed up good, but not really serious.
and thats why you need a driveshaft loop
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