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Curious have you had issues with the looming on your head temp sensor, mine seems to have melted off from the exhaust manifold... would you mind sharing a photo of yours?
Curious have you had issues with the looming on your head temp sensor, mine seems to have melted off from the exhaust manifold... would you mind sharing a photo of yours?
I have the stage II hyperchip in, so I am running at 160*F. Planning on raising that soon with the EBL Flash swap to MAP (speed density) with Rob’s guidance and help. I did change the temperature sensor (for the gauge) between the #1 & #3 cylinders, and did loom it. Haven’t had any issues with headers melting anything in this area. However, I just noticed underneath my headers are melting the plastic shield between the tranny/engine that covers the fly wheel and torque converter. The temperature sender below the throttle body is fine, but may change that soon too.
Temperature sensor (for gauge) Old and New temperature sensor. ACDelco Coolant Temperature Radiator Tank Switch Heat Sensor 25037346 eBay ~$35 seller dz-speedy Temperature sender (intake manifold)
mine seems to have melted off from the exhaust manifold...
You can always drill and tap the intake manifold and relocate it like I did.
Now mine is nowhere near the exhaust heat...
Originally Posted by 1985_IROC
POP Quiz
Found this in my air intake...anyone remember the name of this?
That's the JET two piece air foil, if I remember correctly. Doesn't bolt to the throttle body directly, there is rubber isolator that confines it inside the rubber intake. It's been awhile since I seen one...
Pressure test of original heater core failed miserably, glad I did do the replacement even though it doesn’t fit perfectly. @scooter let me know if you have a place to get the original re-cored.
Could probably re-flow that with a torch and some flux and solder and make it good again.
Yeah, I am gonna give it a try. Watch a few videos on repairing it...this one is pretty good. Been a while since I sweat some pipes, my childhood home was all copper, new home is all cpvc. LOL I didn’t know how to glue water pipes until this house.
It can't really hurt to try, if you get it re-cored the shop is just going to sweat the end tanks on a new core and they only need the original core for measurements.
MAP wire arrived today (went with 18 Gauge GXL). I decided to take apart the pigtail I had purchased and use this full length wire vs. using the 6” of TXL of the pigtail to the new wire. Hardest part was being delicate enough to not damage the pins because I reused them and did not have any. So success!
Now to run the wire, hook up vacuum, and schedule time with @Street Lethal for EBL Flash II hookup and tune. Need to ask you where I should hook the vacuum up at...
Very happy and strong connections. Now that’s a pigtail...can run this directly to EBL Flash II. Mounted MAP onto existing bracket.
Even though my car came MAP sensor equipped with the TPI system, I used an earlier TPI model that I had modified. I drilled and tapped for the vacuum source found on the stock location on the Speed Density plenum, then converted an LG4 style BARO sensor bracket to be used. I have pictures of the process on another computer, but I can attach a picture from the laptop that I am using at the moment which shows it on the back of the plenum on the drivers side. Now, some members opt to just "tee" the vacuum source for the MAP sensor into an existing port, but I prefer to have an independent source, which is why I went through the trouble of drilling and tapping. It is solely up to you though with your system...
This is what I currently have available off the plenum. If I do drill and tap into the plenum, would like to know what’s involved. Do I need to take the plenum off? Assume I do to make sure no metal shavings go into the plenum. If I take the easy way now and tee off existing line, would I need to tune again if I moved it directly to plenum later?
Yes, the two pictures you posted above is essentially what I did. I used the BARO bracket from the first picture, and bolted it into that very plenum area on the earlier MAF oriented TPI system I used. There was no vacuum port readily available on that plenum unlike my stock plenum, so I drilled and tapped for it. The picture I posted above is my car, but I zoomed in on it below to illustrate it better...
Sorry to burst your bubble...………….. but plumber's solder and flux IS NOT FOR ELECTRONICS. At this point, what's done is done.
You MUST clean ALL of that NOKORODE flux (acid) from all the connections that you soldered. 70% alcohol and an old toothbrush will work.
If you leave it, those connections will absolutely corrode and most certainly cause you problems down the road.
You need to get a roll of electronic solder for doing electrical connections. The solder is actually like a tube and the proper flux is on the inside.
I don't know much about the EFI, but I think you want the MAP closer to the vacuum source/less hose. GM moved the MAP away from that location in the later years, to the place you circled in the picture.
You MUST clean ALL of that NOKORODE flux (acid) from all the connections that you soldered. 70% alcohol and an old toothbrush will work.
If you leave it, those connections will absolutely corrode and most certainly cause you problems down the road.
Nooooo 😭. Appreciate you catching this, I’ll give them a clean, and will get some new pins when I can.
EDIT: cleaned them as suggested and hit them with some electrical contact cleaner that removes all flux residue.
Alight @Street Lethal, mocked up the new location for the MAP sensor. Exactly where suggested, looks good. Hopefully final question for this piece of the puzzle, can I simply tee in the vacuum line with this one? I don’t feel comfortable drilling into the plenum.
Hey that looks very good, looks factory. Yes, you can tee into an existing vacuum source. I only avoid doing that with boosted applications, but even then a lot of guys have done that while boosted with no problems. Just be sure to tee into it right by the plenum, there should be two to choose from back there; one from the fuel pressure source, and the other I believe is shared with the cruise control and HVAC, if memory serves me well...
One from the fuel pressure source, and the other I believe is shared with the cruise control and HVAC, if memory serves me well...
- Rob
Yes, I was going to tee into the cruise control / HVAC vacuum, not the fuel pressure source.
EDIT: Unless I should use the fuel pressure vacuum source...you tell me which is best; fuel or HVAC/cruise control? The HVAC /cruise control is easier, no hard lines to deal with and the HVAC/cruise line is identical hose size.
It's a resistive circuit, I don't think it matters in the end. The drawing is from the troubleshooting guide and it doesn't have the terminal cavities listed, but it should be right
Just got home from auto parts store, and turns out they are the same pads for front/rear disk brakes. Learn as we go...Sucks that I have to redo both, but glad I am doing them correctly this time around.
While I’m working on the rear brakes, anyone have any insight as to why the brake lever doesn’t sit flush with the console?
EDIT: I think I figured it out. The cable doesn’t have enough length to allow the lever to go all the way down. So either order another or get creative and modify this some how...
Wasn’t the cable, it was the mount for the lever. It wasn’t level, so had to use my adjustment tools.
Shim the back screw with a washer, lowered the front a bit with a few good blows.
All put back together, nice and level.
The cable T's to 2 cables about half way back in the tunnel. There's a long threaded rod for adjustment that forms part of the T, you may be able to get a little more play there.
I had to disconnect mine to enable console removal, haven't reattached yet. You need the arm pointing straight up to remove the console.
The cable T's to 2 cables about half way back in the tunnel. There's a long threaded rod for adjustment that forms part of the T, you may be able to get a little more play there.
I had to disconnect mine to enable console removal, haven't reattached yet. You need the arm pointing straight up to remove the console.
Not easy to work on these cars, you’re right had to loosen the cables underneath PITA with exhaust & drive shaft. Console itself was a PITA too. I could never find a deep enough crescent ring tool to remove my ****, so sacrificed a needle nose pair of pliers.
I need to regroup and get focused again...but did just get a quote to recore the heating core, ouch $340. Never gonna happen. So took off the tanks this afternoon.
Looks crusty 😕
Now to clear the core passages. They say to run a metal sleeve off a windshield wiper through them.
Where the H, E, (double hockey sticks) does a shop get off changing $340 to recore?
You can now see where your leak was.
I would clean the core and resolder the tanks. What do you have to lose?
Okay, back on track after toying around with the heater core (my attempt to fix failed miserably, used too much heat). Completed the rear brakes, parking brake lever locks them two clicks after brake light comes on. Installed MAP sensor, ran the wires, and hooked up vacuum line.
Think it’s time @Street Lethal to set a date to install the EBL Flash II.
Close as I can get with least tube to vacuum. Ran wires in loom through wheel well. Inside photo shows where it comes in, rubber grommet plus looming.
The aluminum replacement cores suck, they don't fit correctly and you don't get the same amount of heat out of them. I have 3 factory heater cores now I am going to have re-cored
FYI: A-Z Radiator in Trenton quoted me the $350, Joe (owner) said they have to make the core since they are not available. Let me know if you find or know of any other place. I’m gonna try Fingers Radiator in East Brunswick off Rt 1.
Think it’s time @Street Lethal to set a date to install the EBL Flash II.
What I will recommend is printing out what I sent you in terms of instructions and make a checklist, so that when we get together to do the install, we'll check off the items as we go. However, I would highly recommend that you set up the MAP sensor beforehand. The way you ran the wires through the firewall came out really good. But, we'll only need to run the 5-Volt Reference from the MAP sensor using that routing. The other two wires from the MAP sensor will be connected to the MAF sensor wiring that is already in the engine bay...
From the MAP sensor you installed on the firewall, and after you disconnect the stock MAF sensor;
* Run Wire A from the MAP sensor to Pin B on the MAF sensor wiring harness...
* Run Wire B from the MAP sensor to Pin C on the MAF sensor wiring harness...
* Run Wire C from the MAP sensor to Pin C14 Behind the ECM...
So again, you'll only be running Wire C from the MAP sensor through the firewall, The other two wires on the MAP sensor can be connected the the two MAF wires indicated above. Weather is getting a lot better now, we'll set something up very soon...
I will create the checklist (great suggestion) so we don’t miss anything.
With regard to wiring in the MAP, looking at what we will be moving and using at the connector. I was thinking to avoid connections at the MAF...and wire directly to EBL.
Wire In MAP Sensor, Pins On Sensor; A: A11 : GND - use MAF sensor wire from pin B (BLK) -> Move pin D13 to A11, MAP/MAT/CTS ground (BLK) B: C11 : Signal - use MAF sensor wire from pin C (DRK GRN) -> Move pin B11 to C11, MAP signal (DRK GRN) C: C14 : 5V REF - wire to TPS pin C wire (GRY), also found at ECM pin C14.
I will create the checklist (great suggestion) so we don’t miss anything.
With regard to wiring in the MAP, looking at what we will be moving and using at the connector. I was thinking to avoid connections at the MAF...and wire directly to EBL.
Wire In MAP Sensor, Pins On Sensor; A: A11 : GND - use MAF sensor wire from pin B (BLK) -> Move pin D13 to A11, MAP/MAT/CTS ground (BLK) B: C11 : Signal - use MAF sensor wire from pin C (DRK GRN) -> Move pin B11 to C11, MAP signal (DRK GRN) C: C14 : 5V REF - wire to TPS pin C wire (GRY), also found at ECM pin C14.
Pretty sure this is correct?
Eric
Yes, those instructions are exactly what I stated above, but they also include the pinout change behind the ECM that need to be moved afterward. You can definitely run the new MAP wires straight to and behind the EBL replacing the MAF wires entirely (something I would do, as it is a much cleaner install that way), but then you will have extra harness under the hood unless you are going to remove the original MAF wires entirely (not recommended, because they run, and are integrated with, the rest of the harness, so removing it will be extremely time consuming). This is why RBob just has everyone use the original two MAF wires that are already out there, then just run the 5 volt to the TPS wire for reference. There are so many ways to do it, but in the end, it's your car, so you need to be happy with the install...
All good brother, thanks and will await your schedule. I have plenty of vacation time, however my soccer coaching eats up Tues, Thurs, and Saturdays. Any other days are doable. I am not pushing to make it happen, just want to let you know...
Yes, this is definitely why we'll try to eliminate the easy stuff beforehand this way it will literally be minutes once I get there lol. It's just removing the passenger kick and knee panel, and dropping the ECM which is held in place with a bracket, it's not bolted in (only the bracket is). Once the MAP sensor is wired in, believe it or not that is the only hard part of the setup. The rest is just moving wires behind the ECM, and/or removing some entirely and taping them up as to not to be used anymore. Your TPI system uses the early large cap HEI system, so I need to remember to go back into the tune I made for you ahead of time and change your SA latency values... in fact I'll change them now.
Honestly with this being your high school car, id restore it to how you remember it in highschool, or maybe back then you had a idea of a "build" you wanted and i would take all the things out of that build that you think would make you wanna drive it more, and kinda forget the things that would make it uncomfortable, like as of right now i want coilovers on my 82 but i know down the road those things can be very harsh rides, same with power, not too much, not too little, id say do some thinking on what you truly want this car to be, a weekend warrior, show car, or what i call a "perfect day princess" only drive it when its really nice, not a cloud in the sky, what the car can become is all up to you but me personally would make it seem stock but tweak some suspension, maybe throw an exhaust on and some new tires, and id leave it as is from there.
04-13-2021, 06:32 PM
