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Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
When you cranked the engine, how long (seconds) did it it rotate with the starter motor before it stopped? While you have the top end off you might want to consider pulling the intake and checking the oil galley. Sometimes when blocks/freeze and bust you can see form the top. It will be very obvious.
Last edited by MrPackstin; 06-25-2019 at 08:23 PM.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by MrPackstin
When you cranked the engine, how long (seconds) did it it rotate with the starter motor before it stopped? While you have the top end off you might want to consider pulling the intake and checking the oil galley. Sometimes when blocks/freeze and bust you can see form the top. It will be very obvious.
It rotated 10-15 then I key off. Let it sit a minute key on, and then click nothing. Won’t turn by hand with plugs out either.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
try turning it by hand/wrench counter-clockwise. see if the piston will go back down or up. Regardless, I would prepare to tear that engine down or replace. The only other thing to do is to disconnect torque converter
Last edited by MrPackstin; 06-25-2019 at 10:16 PM.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by MrPackstin
try turning it by hand/wrench counter-clockwise. see if the piston will go back down. Regardless, I would prepare to tear that engine down or replace. The only other thing to do is to disconnect torque converter
Nada. Won’t turn either way. It has to be seized. I squirted 1/4oz of ATF info drivers side cylinder bank plug holes.
tomorrow will try passenger side. Let it sit.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
So I have a line on an 80,000 mile 1988 Corvette L98 that turns over and looks really clean. I can get it in trade for a precision 5857 billet wheel journal bearing turbo I have collecting dust in my closet which has a cracked iron turbine housing. The motor seller knows all about it and says he’s good with it. Turbo is worth 500-600$ it’s super clean 200$ exhaust housing make it perfect again.
600hp capable closet turbo for a longblock manifolds, TPI intake injectors and everything is it a good deal?
i searches and found I would have to tap the passenger head for the Camaro/Firebird accessory bracket and run all the original accessories and brackets from it.
Would the manfiolds fit?
This thing has to be seized only other issue would be torque converter seizing or staying locked up. and I can’t see that happening trying to start it. It’s also in park and neutral. I don’t know enough auto trans to know that.
also brings me to, would this 700R4 and torque converter etc bolt up? I read it has to be indexed. How do I do that?
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Did you get the info on the pad located at the head/block interface passenger side? Then you'll know exactly what engine you have and whether the compatibility is 100% or not. Regardless, if you're swapping out an entire engine for another, between 88 Vette and 89 3rd Gen (if you have an 89), the differences are few with the possible exception of the wiring harness'. Based on your experiences, I doubt that would be much of a problem and there are many here that can answer the specifics if need be.
As for indexing the torque converter, all that consists of is marking the relationship between the converter and flexplate. Then it can be re-assembled the same way. I've used a paint pen or marker in the past.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by skinny z
Did you get the info on the pad located at the head/block interface passenger side? Then you'll know exactly what engine you have and whether the compatibility is 100% or not. Regardless, if you're swapping out an entire engine for another, between 88 Vette and 89 3rd Gen (if you have an 89), the differences are few with the possible exception of the wiring harness'. Based on your experiences, I doubt that would be much of a problem and there are many here that can answer the specifics if need be.
As for indexing the torque converter, all that consists of is marking the relationship between the converter and flexplate. Then it can be re-assembled the same way. I've used a paint pen or marker in the past.
It is an 89. Title says it at least. L98 8 in vin. I have most of the harness unplugged already because it won’t turn over. I started that last night. Either way If it last ditch breaks free with ATF in plug holes and new starter torque with clean connections the connectors all need a good douching out.
Ill check the block number pad when I get home tonight. It may be a 305 swapped in for all I know.
I doubt it will break free I think the PO seas cranking it a ton trying to get it to go and it’s been spinning in 4 quarts of oil and 5+ quarts of bad gas.
any wiring differences on the corvette motor would be cake. I can grab a BIN file too and tweak it for new modern four hole injectors I cruised the EFI section and it you folks have everything mapped in these ECU’s it seems.
ideally this other L98 would be drop pan, check bearings and clearances, pop heads and check valves out, check for flatness on heads, new gaskets, new stem seals and just go while bodywork and other stuff is done. Not trying to make big power just vintage period correct cruiser.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by AudiGary
So I have a line on an 80,000 mile 1988 Corvette L98 that turns over and looks really clean. I can get it in trade for a precision 5857 billet wheel journal bearing turbo I have collecting dust in my closet which has a cracked iron turbine housing. The motor seller knows all about it and says he’s good with it. Turbo is worth 500-600$ it’s super clean 200$ exhaust housing make it perfect again.
600hp capable closet turbo for a longblock manifolds, TPI intake injectors and everything is it a good deal?
i searches and found I would have to tap the passenger head for the Camaro/Firebird accessory bracket and run all the original accessories and brackets from it.
Would the manfiolds fit?
This thing has to be seized only other issue would be torque converter seizing or staying locked up. and I can’t see that happening trying to start it. It’s also in park and neutral. I don’t know enough auto trans to know that.
also brings me to, would this 700R4 and torque converter etc bolt up? I read it has to be indexed. How do I do that?
A 1988 Corvette L98 will work. You will need to use your F-body accessories, oil cooler, oil pan, brackets, headers or exhaust manifolds. You will also need to swap out the fuel rail because the fuel lines are on the passenger side on a Corvette and driver side on an F-body. While you have the TPI apart to swap the fuel rail, replacing the fuel injectors with new ones would be a good idea.
The Corvette exhaust manifolds will not fit an F-body frame rails and K-member and the other issue you are going to run into is with the EGR system. The F-body had an internal EGR passage in the cylinder heads and the Corvette aluminum heads didn't have that passage, so they used an external EGR pipe connected to the exhaust manifold at the #8 cylinder exhaust port. If you are using headers, you can weld on a flange to the #8 header primary tube and connect to the EGR tube. The other option would be to eliminate the EGR with a blockoff plate where the EGR tube connects to the intake manifold and have a new PROM chip burned to remove the EGR function so you don't get a check engine light.
The trade for a turbo sounds like a reasonable deal if this is a good running motor.
Your original 700R4, torque converter and flexplate will all bolt up fine. You will also probably be best off using your existing wiring harness.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Have you tried turning it over at the flywheel with a pry bar? It seems unlikely to me it would lock up immediately after you cranked it. At that slow of a speed you couldn't have damaged anything.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by jkris53406
Have you tried turning it over at the flywheel with a pry bar? It seems unlikely to me it would lock up immediately after you cranked it. At that slow of a speed you couldn't have damaged anything.
That hasn’t been tried. I have a boat load of work tomorrow morning including that and trying a fresh starter. next I have a line on the corvette motor.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
So an update for you folks.
i went to see the 1988 corvette L98 last night and it turns over very smoothly by hand and has decent compression feel by hand if that makes sense. It was very well maintained, no front or rear main leaks, no pan gasket leaks, no headgaskwt leaks, not even valve cover leaks. Minimal carbon/coking inside the valve covers it had maybe 5 year old Bosch super single electrode plugs that showed a bit rich running, the exhaust manifold and TPI plenum gaskets were also relatively new. The injector bodies are also very clean with the green stripe still.
I do believe it is a 80,000 mile motor from a wrecked car and the owner of it is a Japanese American and German car guy we clicked and hit it off. Plug wires were even relatively new and Delphi, minimal block corrosion on the outside.
the plugs read fairly well if anything it was running a hair rich. Popped the plugs back in he inspected the billet wheel turbo and is sticking the 600hp precision on his Miata he is doing a four rotor swap into. So imagine a ratty looking 600hp rotary powered Miata.
everyone is happy with the deal.
The L98 has the oil drained out of it what I found on the dipstick was dark but not bad. It was definitely using conventional oil and likely needs a flush.
now as time permits I am going to be stripping the seized motor of accessories and pieces to get it out.
Next question, how do I get this thing out since I can’t get to the flex plate bolts? Is access to bell housing bolts easy on these with a seized motor? I’d rather not drop the trans. I can paint mark the torque converter to flex plate as suggested so it goes back on proper.
Literally, never done a motor swap or anything non an automatic vehicle. Well once I did VR6 timing chains on an auto Jetta but I think we just left the converter in trans and did flex plate bolts that way.
everything I’ve done or owner has been a manual until now. Sort of excited for a traditional American auto and 250hp 350ftlb V8.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
You won't be able to get to all of the torque converter bolts without being able to rotate the crank. I would leave the torque converter attached to the flexplate and separate the transmission from the motor. The torque converter just slides into the transmission input shaft. The tough part is going to be to get the motor to come far enough forward for the torque converter to clear the transmission housing and the firewall before pulling it upward. Normally you don't need to remove the front engine accessories, but in this case I would in order to give you more clearance. Take off the two aluminum accessory mount brackets, water pump and crank pulley. Hopefully that gives you enough room.
Worst case you have to take the transmission out from the bottom. It's really not all that bad to do.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by TransamGTA350
You won't be able to get to all of the torque converter bolts without being able to rotate the crank. I would leave the torque converter attached to the flexplate and separate the transmission from the motor. The torque converter just slides into the transmission input shaft. The tough part is going to be to get the motor to come far enough forward for the torque converter to clear the transmission housing and the firewall before pulling it upward. Normally you don't need to remove the front engine accessories, but in this case I would in order to give you more clearance. Take off the two aluminum accessory mount brackets, water pump and crank pulley. Hopefully that gives you enough room.
Worst case you have to take the transmission out from the bottom. It's really not all that bad to do.
I have to strip all accessories intake and etc anyways. All need to be cleaned up and put on the new L98. I’ll yank the radiator and all that should do it.
Looks like Ike I even need the old distributor. F body TPI intake all of that.
I found the second owners license in the car and searched him out. He sent me a black and white photo of the car from 1996 and told me it has 3.73 gears in back with a posi, supposedly a corvette block, the first owner did that all and the headers when it was brand new. Had a kill switch wired in it at one point, possibly a cam in the motor also.
he said at one point the car has run from a group of five cops at 140mph and had loads of hot chicks in it. He sold it to a nerdy sixteen year old in 2004 to try and change his life, sixteen year old probably clapped it out and then it sat from 2007 to now.
showed him pictures he said it was sad to see it in such rough shape.
This haggard TA back in 1996 mint shape and cared for.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by AudiGary
I have to strip all accessories intake and etc anyways. All need to be cleaned up and put on the new L98. I’ll yank the radiator and all that should do it.
Looks like Ike I even need the old distributor. F body TPI intake all of that.
I found the second owners license in the car and searched him out. He sent me a black and white photo of the car from 1996 and told me it has 3.73 gears in back with a posi, supposedly a corvette block, the first owner did that all and the headers when it was brand new. Had a kill switch wired in it at one point, possibly a cam in the motor also.
he said at one point the car has run from a group of five cops at 140mph and had loads of hot chicks in it. He sold it to a nerdy sixteen year old in 2004 to try and change his life, sixteen year old probably clapped it out and then it sat from 2007 to now.
showed him pictures he said it was sad to see it in such rough shape.
This haggard TA back in 1996 mint shape and cared for.
That's a cool story and yes, it's a shame to see the car's condition now compared to back then.
When you put the new motor in, I find it easiest to assemble all of the accessories and intake manifold/runners (minus the distributor and headers) on the stand and drop it in as a complete assembly. Headers can be tricky though. You may want to set them loosely in place as you are dropping the motor in and then bolt them on once the motor is sitting on the motor mounts.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by TransamGTA350
That's a cool story and yes, it's a shame to see the car's condition now compared to back then.
When you put the new motor in, I find it easiest to assemble all of the accessories and intake manifold/runners (minus the distributor and headers) on the stand and drop it in as a complete assembly. Headers can be tricky though. You may want to set them loosely in place as you are dropping the motor in and then bolt them on once the motor is sitting on the motor mounts.
Previous owner welded the headers to the y pipe 😑
i have to cut them off where they are all welded and get rid of the stupid giant cat. I’ll probably cut them and then work on
unbolting them as well.
lots of removal bagging bolts and labeling things.
is the 9th injector fuel rail port a -8 AN ? I read that somewhere and want to order a plug to get that stupid thing out and remove and trash these cruddy injectors.
Busdy says the new L98 looks so clean to just cut the oil filter open and if no glitter in it to just replace seals oil pan gasket and drop the motor in and go.
its going to be loud with open headers so I won’t be able to listen for any motor noise.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
This 350 is heavy and hanging by a seatbelt. The wood under the lift is thick. All the crusty accessories and C4 intake must come off anyways. So before I try to fight getting it into this trailer I’m stripping it to the heads and block.
has nice carbon buildup in ports. Turns over very nice by hand.
Seatbelt support to accessory bracket and drivers manifold. Yeah that’s going away. Stripping Work spot Pretty stripped
I pulled a ton of weight off this motor. More to go.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
So I steel wool scrubbed and soaked the roof with paper towels coated in evaporust. Got the sailpanel to quarter transition and deck lid. May as well be less ugly even if ugly.
while im waiting for other things I remembered I had a small bottle of evaporust and said why not. It’s leaving quickly. Next nice day I’m taking it to bare metal and masking it off then using spraymax catalyze two part epoxy primer on the roof sail panels and then the rear quarters.
night and day difference the black rattle can crap is coming off too. At least two part epoxy primer will properly seal the steel once clean. May be a good while before paint. Piece by piece bit by bit.
front fenders coming off to go to bare metal and hit with epoxy later this month too. Have a new fuel tank coming but may soak old tank in evaporust and pump pure evaporust through lines. Not sure may get all new stainless lines for sanity sake. Have a brand new sending unit too so it will have a new uncontaminated fuel system for the vette L98 and fresh injectors. Basic basics.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by AudiGary
I’m taking it to bare metal...
What's your method of choice for that? I've a similar project coming up with a couple of very nice rust free doors that will need some care and attention. I'm inclined to go to bare metal and epoxy prime as well.
Re: Help me. Got an 89 T/A out of a backyard. Has aluminum calipers and an alum D sha
Originally Posted by AudiGary
Thanks a ton folks. PM incoming with the vin. I love this T/A it’s going to get done *RIGHT* as a period correct as a cruiser. I plan to keep it forever. I’d like to keep the L98 also.
it balances out my car collection. I needed some America.
for grins here is my 6spd sport package stripped down 135i an actual rare car. It’s a blast but doesn’t have that American V8 solid axle vibe.
6spd manual with the sport package. 2000-3000 hard top twin turbo cars made it to this country from 2008-2010. Actually rare.
Heres a swapped gutted 1998 A4 Quattro wagon that makes 500whp with a 60mm turbo.
Rust free southern car originally a 2.8 automatic. Looks stock, Rips all 4. Makes no power below 4500.
The German stuff is pretty cut and dry for options and “packages”. All the RPO code and options these third hens and GM does confuses me like crazy.
I love your other cars. Six speed one series BMWs are rare beasts indeed! And what can I say about the Audi, every car enthusiast loves a wagon ( although maybe it’s just for persons of a certain age because our parents crammed us into the back of them when we were young ).
06-25-2019, 06:13 PM
