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1A answered my comment right away, asking about box damage, part damage and setting up an exchange. I wrote with the details and told them I'd wait and see if they worked, but if not, I'd be back in touch.
The ebay seller did the right thing. Admitted the filter was trashed, and that he had not shipped it that way. He had two of these filters, and is sending me the other one at his expense.
And the J&M order...I misread the email. They were saying they considered the transaction closed because they had shipped it, not because tracking said it had arrived. Whew....I was worried there for a moment. It was due in today. I worked for about 3 hours last night, and until a little after 9pm this evening (yup...it's hell week). I have to run to CTC tomorrow, so maybe I'll have 5 extra minutes to swing by the post office tomorrow and pick those up.
I did tinker a little in the garage over the weekend, but despite the hours put in, the results do not reflect it. Had the passenger side of the front steering linkage cleaned up (my first time under here except to change oil), which is to say I scraped 35 years of accumulated grease off of all the joints, and cleaned a little after that. Not show worthy, but it's more Street Machine than trophy queen.
At least one new joint. Idler, which I'm told these cars with the 16" wheels/tires would trash in very short order. Glad to have the Moog.
A surviving paint mark.
So it's a little cleaner environment for me to work in. Have to do the driver side. I grab my grease gun, and start lubing joints. I'm getting nice red Wolf's Head high temp grease pushing the old stuff out. Then on the 3rd joint (the Moog), it suddenly starts oozing / dripping this black/blue/green thick motor oil looking stuff. WTH? This isn't the old stuff being pushed out, it's what coming out of my gun! I'm religious about cleaning the gun between tubes, so I'm not cross contaminating the thing with different brands of grease. But....I must not have taken the spring end of the gun apart, the end behind the piston, or at least not recently. The seal had failed enough to allow grease to accumulate in this area behind the piston, yet still sealed enough to work. Even cleaned, I was still getting that goop out the handle end, so I unscrewed the spring end, and this is what I found.
You can see the dark black/blue/purple edge where the liquid was slipping past the red grease in the center of the tube.
And the bad end.
Worked a lot of grease guns, lubed a lot of vehicles, never seen anything like that. That all went into the trash, and a trip to NAPA got me two new tubes of Valvoline High Temp red grease (and some Duplicolor School Bus Yellow paint). And a stop at Menards got me a new gun and some other supplies.
So back under he car again, re-lube all the joints until I've purged the dark goop, then clean everything again. Like I said, a weekend of hobby hours invested, and I got half the front end greased.
I did dig out the Koni shocks and struts. These were a low mile used set I bought here on TGO. A few nicks and scratches, so I touched them up with some POR-15.
Kind of like cleaning the steering linkage, it's more about stopping corrosion on expensive parts than it is about making them "pretty".
Then tonight, after shutting off the work laptop, I spent a few minutes in the shop, including getting one side of them etch primed. That can cure overnight, and I'll prime the other side tomorrow. I have no idea how well this will stick, but I made an effort. As always, not a ton of progress, but progress. And, progress, not perfection.
We used to run the Koni stuff on our Firehawk series car. We had a Bilstein deal but couldnt get the car to handle as well with them so painted the Konis up to look like them and installed Bilstein decals on them, lol.
We used to run the Koni stuff on our Firehawk series car. We had a Bilstein deal but couldnt get the car to handle as well with them so painted the Konis up to look like them and installed Bilstein decals on them, lol.
That's a wild but of sponsor and racing history right there! Good story.
A touch of progress today, I was able to finish priming those items while the sun was shining. Tomorrow is peak crazy at work (I hope), so I'll be lucky to get the first half of the first coat of color on them.
On the parts front, the J&M strut mounts arrived (some assembly required).
And I rcvd. an email notice that the replacement K&N filter shipped. Should be here Friday.
Lastly, these showed up, which I had forgotten to mention previously. '91-'92 F-body front inner fenders liners. '82-'89 these liners attached to the fender lip with the liner laying over the outside of the fender wheelwell lip (closer to the tire), where the '91-'92 are sized / designed to mount behind the wheel well lip (making the fender lip the closest surface to the wheel/tire). At least that's what I've been told. It's a small gain, but my driver side can already rub ever-so-slightly when turning. You never hear it or feel it, but there is a light polished mark on the liner on that side. With these adjustable mounts, and a bit more caster dialed in, that tire may move back a touch, aggravating that condition. I'm hoping these will help with that.
Got a solid couple of hours in last night, and got the driver side steering linkage all cleaned up and lubricated. "Wonder Bar" goes on next. I've had this for quite a few years....ordered it when my hatch motor failed....came from same supplier, TDS.
Replacement K&N came in today. Much better packaging, and in good shape. Ready for cleaning and re-oiling.
And I was able to wrap up work at a decent hour this afternoon (with a little left over for the weekend), and got the van full O'tires down to the shop that is refinishing them. 12 wheels, 12 tires, and a confusing mix for what is being done with what. Should look nice when done, and it will be nice for her to have some new shoes.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 03-06-2024 at 09:59 PM.
Touched up some rusty spots on the air cleaner lid. Not pleased with the result, but at least it will stop the rust. Not repulsive, but not pretty either. I have another air cleaner that is the long-term solution.
Shocks and struts painted. Didn't come out great either, but as I mentioned, was doing it more for rust protection than for looks. You can't see much of them when installed, some I'm OK with it.
New K&N cleaned, dried and re-oiled.
Got the old front sway bar end links out tonight. Had been soaking them in Blaster, and trying to drive the bolt out but both seemed pretty well rusted to the outer collar. Tonight I took a sawzall to the passenger side, and before I could get all the way through the only metal cutting blade I had was done. I thought, what have I got to lose by trying once again to drive it out with a hammer. And lucky day, out she came. The driver side came out with no cutting at all. So I'm ready for the new ones when I get the struts on. Just leaving them out of the way for now.
Those are another story. I'm still screwing around with the damn strut bearings. (Shown here with the bearing sitting on top....I know it bolt in from below). I slipped them into position on the struts today, and they are quite loose fitting. Does not seem right. It would be counting entirely on the clamping load of the top nut on the strut shaft to hold it together and not rattle, and to not let the shaft shift around in the too-large opening. The bearing is also not quite straight, and I can't get it to straighten up. It also will not rotate. I've already called J&M twice with questions, and to be fair, both times they were helpful, and my assumptions about how the thing went together were completely wrong. But I just wish they'd have included a damn instruction sheet! Left a message with them today.
Lastly, got a couple of coats of chassis black on these stud plates for the strut bearings. They came with a nice bright silver coating, but I figured a little extra protection couldn't hurt, and black seemed a less distracting color than bright silver. Etch primed, and two coats of color.
Making progress every day. Not always note or photo worthy.
- I think I finally have all the answers on the J&M bearings, and they do fit the strut shafts well. Have fastener torques, bearing plate orientation, and a few other details all figured out.
- Was missing one of the "bump plates" for the Koni struts, and the one I do have is deformed. Two new ones on the way.
- Could not find the strut nyloc nuts (M14 x 1.5) locally, so those are ordered and on the way.
- Couldn't get the old struts off without an impact, and I have haven't had a working air compressor for 3 years + (since before the garage fire). So this motivated me to get the compressor set up, new filter and drier hung, hoses installed. Been running tanks of air through the compressor and purging them at the drain to chase out accumulated moisture. Picked up a new bottle of air tool oil (again, lost the old one in the fire).
- Van and car hauler road trip ready (LOF for van, air for all 9 tires, Battery Tender off the car hauler...got lucky and had a sunny warm afternoon yesterday after work to get this all done...raining today, tomorrow and maybe Sunday). The hauler is heading back to the manufacturer for a 6 year tune-up. They'll look it over from end to end, top to bottom, and even underneath to make sure there is no damage, fatigue or cracking (it's all aluminum). Need a few LED panels replaced while it's there (hoping they have matching ones), check bearings and brakes. Tires will get replaced, either there or when it gets back. They've been good, and still look good, but they are chinese, and 6 years is as far as I'm willing to go with them.
- Going on 3 weeks since the order went in, my headliner material still had not shipped. Cancelled the order, and placed an order with another vendor.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 03-08-2024 at 07:57 PM.
Still tinkering. Work volume has picked up big time in the last week or so....not helpful.
Under the "a fool and his money are soon parted" heading, I found this online, and could not pass it up. A $269 + tax and shipping piece from UMI, I got it for $99 with free shipping "used" from ebay. I hope it's a good piece. Obviously repainted body color for a previous vehicle. Doesn't look like it was ever mounted after being painted. I'll shoot it chassis black. If it chips, who cares? Oh, also came with a new transmission mount and torque arm bushing, both of which I need. So now I have spares. I hope I have time to get it installed.
Koni bump plates arrived today.
Nyloc nuts for the struts arrived.
The fuel filter, which looks original, has been soaking in Blaster for a week or so. One side came loose with a line wrench. The other end, no bueno. It's soaking for a while longer. Had a buy a 13/16 wrench as a backer for the welded fittings on the filter....a size I didn't have. I'll be heading out thee before I go to bed to try again.
Needed my impact to drive the old factory strut nuts off. Haven't had a working compressor since before the fire. This forced me to get it all hooked up. A lot of moisture in the tank, so I've been charging/discharging the tank to blow that out. Ordered some disposable filters to use right at the impact (usually used for painting) in case the filter and drier I hung was not enough. Nobody local had them, so I turned to Amazon on Sunday night. They promised arrival the next day by 11am. They didn't show. Checked their site, reschedule to be here by 10pm last night. No show. Checked again today, and they skipped delivery today in favor of tomorrow.
With a few minutes to kill on Sunday night, I dug out the overhead console I want to add when I re-cover the headliner. Not available in '88, and the kid in my just had to have one. Between the garage fire and the previous owner being a heavy smoker of some kind of leaf, I had to go over this thing with cleaner like 10 times. It's a start.
Also, heard back from the trailer manufacturer today. She got a clean bill of health, except for a few non-working LED lights, which I knew about. They will be replacing those, greasing the wheel bearings, and replacing the break-away cable, and she'll be good to go.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 03-12-2024 at 08:54 PM.
Ah yes, the joys of being an overhead console owner. Absolutely unnecessary, yet absolutely required to have
And as I know how much of a perfectionst you are:
Your pouch is missing the elastic textile band that helps it close up far enough to keep stuff where it belongs. That's a simple black elastic band you should be able to find wherever they sell sewing goods. Mine was dried out and solid, so I went that way and replaced it.
Take a look at my post #50, if you would like more info: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post5729917
Thanks for the link back to your thread about this. I think I have a pdf of that saved somewhere.
If mine turns out half as nice as yours, I'll be very happy.
Yes, elastic is missing. Another mini-project to tackle.
I think I have a flashlight somewhere, but planned to do the Cadillac Homelink conversion. Have that module already. But I'm second guessing that plan, as I also want a new mirror with temp and compass, and to get one in red instead of green display, I have to update to one with Homelink built into the mirror. And I don't need both. I already have a mirror with all the wiring, new, but it's a green display. Decisions, decisions....
I read about the homelink thing, too, but I don't think I'd get that to work over here, with all the differences in allowed frequencies and such... but... I COULD butcher one of our remotes and wire it up to such a bezel... hmm...
Got the driver side strut off, old bearing off, and new bearing in place. Paused to contemplate the need for a bump stop (in a previous conversation with Koni, they said to transfer the boot and bump stop....my factory boots have no bump stops), so I moved on to the brakes for the moment. Both were supposed to be done by this weekend to stay on schedule. I'm now officially behind.
Posted this in the BRAKES section HERE.
I was planning on new pads for the front, and bleeding the system (old fluid was very dark). I should note that I was having no problem with the brake system...it was performing as it had since I bought the car 10 years ago. Good pedal, no pulsation, but lots of dust from these pads, and not stellar braking power (a too fast idle making that issue worse).
I've had all 4 bleeders soaking in Blaster for a few weeks, and was lucky enough to get them all loose without issue. Win!
Yesterday I cleaned out the master cylinder reservoir. Drained, cleaned, and got a few "floating" bit of debris when I started to refill it. So I cleaned it out again, and repeated this process about 4 times until I could fill the reservoir and the fluid remained spotless. Nothing unusual in my experience. (Level set: I've spent my life around automotive repair, and done my share of "regular" brake work (pads, shoes, drums, and discs, on-car lathe, pipes and hoses. Not so much with ABS and nothing regenerative or self applying. So I know a fair amount, but am not a line technician).
After the reservoir was clean and refilled, I moved to the passenger rear corner. Crack the bleeder open and the old fluid flows right out. Gravity bled until the fluid runs clear. Closed it up. I kept the reservoir full, never allowing it to run dry. So far, so good.
This afternoon I moved to the driver's side rear. Same routine....master cylinder full, lid loose, crack the bleeder open....and nothing. Opened it more, and nothing. Removed the bleeder. It's open, not plugged or corroded internally at all. No fluid. I reinstalled the bleeder, and with it loose, used a hand vacuum pump to try and pull fluid through. Nothing.
OK, so we have a collapsed hard line or hose from the body to the axle I'm thinking. But, if it was the hose, I would not have gotten any fluid from the passenger side. The hard line from the M/C to that hose at the axle must also be open. So I'm looking at the hard line from the distribution block on the axle to the wheel cylinder. Expecting to find it crushed by a jack or similarly damaged, I visually look at ever inch. No signs of damage. I run my hand over the whole length of it. Nothing.
I pulled the drum, just to take a peak. It's had rear brake service before (1 owner before me, about 52k miles on it when I bought it, 64k now). But all looks good. (There was brake dust in the drum, indicating that at some point since those shoes were installed, the brakes on that corner did work).
While I was lucky with the bleeders, looking at the lines, I'm not optimistic that there will be a repeat performance. I'm letting things dry (I washed out the drum and system components with brake clean), then I'll reassemble the thing, and try pushing fluid out with the pedal. I do not expect a different result.
So I'm down to removing and inspecting the 18-24" hard line on the driver side of the axle. Does this seem right to you? Am I missing something somewhere that I should check before I (likely) destroy that line to check it?
When I was updating my brake hoses( they were original from 88’ and still worked ) I replaced them with Goodridge braided stainless and replaced that hard line on the axle as it was looking a little punky. I thought that while I’m back there and going to bleed them anyway may as well do it all and be done with it. IIRC SStubes.com has all of the lines and at good prices/quality.
Also I really liked the one man bleeding with a soda bottle and fuel line like I saw on a 1A auto video, made bleeding a snap.
There's not much you can do at this point. Maybe there's some ind of debris blocking the outlet to that side of the axle in the distribution block.
I'd try loosening the fitting of the hard line in that spot, to see if anything drips out.
If so, same thing at the brake cylinder side.
After that only the cylinder's left. Perhaps there's internal blockage.
I plan to start disassembling backwards from the wheel cylinder until I find fluid. I'm taking a few days to do other work while all of the fittings soak in penetrating oil.
Happy Anniversary to my T/A. Bought it 10 years ago today.
Originally Posted by DynoDave43
I plan to start disassembling backwards from the wheel cylinder until I find fluid. I'm taking a few days to do other work while all of the fittings soak in penetrating oil.
Well that was a short trip. The nut came loose from the wheel cylinder and spun freely on the pipe, so no damage to the pipe, which is good. Sort of a long thread on that connection, so it didn't happen right away like with the bleeder, but as soon as it was loose enough, fluid came out. So it appears the issue is with the wheel cylinder itself. I'm going to have to disassemble the old one to see what happened. Stopping at the parts store at lunch to get a pair of wheel cylinders ordered, and a pair of seals for the backs of the rotor on the front, so I can clean and repack those bearings.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 03-21-2024 at 11:41 AM.
Didn't feel the best this week/weekend. I did get the driver side rear drum brake disassembled. Decided to give the special tool for the wheel cylinder a try. Took the new cylinder apart and cleaned it. Glad I did...the bore was very dirty, remnants of the machining process.
Got the driver side front disc brake apart. Found something I'd never seen before...a wheel bearing with a plastic cage. Seemed to be in good shape, so I soaked it in a mixing cup of mineral spirits, and removed all the old grease. Some brake clean and time to dry, and it appeared to be entirely reusable.
Removed the old grease seal, and rear bearing. Same routine...soaked, cleaned, sprayed, dried. Came back to it today, and the inner felt a touch gravel-y. Tapping it on the paper towel, I got this.
Put a magnet on it, and about 80% of the pieces can be picked up that way. So Despite looking good visually, it's coming apart inside. Tapped the outer with the plastic cage on the towel the same way, and got one bit of debris, also magnetic. May have migrated there from the back bearing, but, in for a penny, in for a pound. I'll get all the bearing for both sides ordered tomorrow. Was going to reuse the rotors, but since I'll be pounding races in and out, I might as well start fresh with some new rotors too.
Capped off the evening listen to The House of Hair, and got the engine oil and filter changed.
3-26
Ran out at lunch and returned the wheels for re-coating. Stopped on the way back and picked up the new wheel bearings and rotors that I order yesterday. Later today, and special tool I ordered for removing those wheel cylinder clips arrived.
3-29
This was a bad car week. Too busy at work to do much. Holiday is finally here and I don't feel well today. Tomorrow will be house cleaning for company on Sunday. So if I'm lucky I'll be back in the garage on Monday some (do have to do a few hours of work Monday). Might get out there Sunday night late...House of Hair you know. That gives me a good 3 hours of work if I feel up to it.
I may have made some progress on some sort of boot for the struts. Mailed my broken factory boot to a manufacturer, who may be able to do something for me. We'll see.
Today was going to be wheel cylinder day. Did some office work this morning, then on the phone with my brother for an hour or more. Next thing you know it's 1:30. Eat some lunch and it's 2pm before I get out there. Looking over the wheel cylinder which I disassembled and cleaned the inside of, I notice this trash in the inlet port.
Managed to dig these bigger chunks out with a dental pick (have a dozen of these "swap meet" tools...use them all the time). The "thread" marks came from cleaning the outside of the bleeder. Really dirty threads.
Using a brush and some brake clean, and working inverted so I did not push debris inside, I cleaned that bore, and the one for the bleeder valve. More trash.
Now, to that old wheel cylinder.
The Devil.
And the Holy water? The china made Amazon copy of the factory special tool.
Holy water? Not exactly. Test fitting it to the wheel cylinder on the car, a couple of problems became apparent. #1, as you start to spread the tool, it opens in a V, meaning by the time you spread it enough to straddle the wheel cylinder, the tips are approaching some very small holes at an angle. Straight on would be much better. #2, be it due to corrosion, dirt, or tips that are too big, they would not go into the holes they were meant to fit. #3, during one attempt to retract the jaws back together, the circlip or e-clip at the other end of the tools threaded shaft, which applies the retracting pressure on the outside of the jaw...it went missing. Never did find it. Fortunately my stash of assorted fasteners included a tray of clip, and I had an e-clip that worked. Now the tool is back in action, but not working thus far. SO more time wasted. Also burned time cobbling together the fittings to add one of those disposable water traps to the end of my air nozzle, so I could blow air through the portion of the wheel cylinder I have not disassembled.
Keep in mind, this is a very tight work space, thus no photos. And I want to get my nose about 8-10 inches from where I'm working, but even with 4.5x readers, I can't see that close up.
Now we're on try 6 or 7, and it just is not working. Tried it with the brake pipe out of the way, but fluid is pouring out, and no way to cap it without seriously bending the pipe away from the wheel cylinder. So I left it connected, thinking if I got the clip loose, and pull the cylinder in with the line on it, I can take it off then.
Looking more closely at the tool, of you have a pair of snap-ring pliers with interchangeable tips, it's sort designed like that. The actual tips are 6 sided stock, like an Allen key. The very end where they are supposed to slip behind the clip, they are half milled away to make them thin. Problem is, unlike a snap ring pliers with a round tip, there is now an orientation to those tips, to keep the flat surface vertical. And guess how one of the holders is machine for grabbing that 6 sides stock? That's right, it hold the bit crooked, or clocked wrong. Tried to adjust it, but it just slips back. Can't fix that.
So I grabbed two small trim nails...a thin finish nail. I tapped them in past the clip, and they stayed and were tight. So far so good. Now to use the special tool to spread those nails (and thus the clip) at their base. This works so-so. The nails spread at the free end pretty substantially, and the tool wants to slide up that V as you spread it. But it sorta worked...felt like it made some progress. And those nails are now super loose, where I had to tap them in. Maybe some progress?
I switched to larger finish nails, like 8 penny or so. Tapped them in, and applied the tool again. Seemed to be working, and holding the tool in one hand, I grabbed my kotter pin hook tool and put it behind the wheel cylinder casting, and pulled. It moved out. Repeated on the other side, and it had clearly pulled away from the backing plate. I wedged a mid-sized straight blade screw driver behind the wheel cylinder to stop the wheel cylinder from slipping back. Removed the tool and nails, then the brake pipe. Capped the pipe, and I need dinner and a margarita.
Nails, special tool, and hook tool.
Brake shoe still attached to the brake cable, and held to the hub with a bungee cord so it did not dangle in the path of the dripping brake fluid. Pipe capped with a rubber plug.
The trouble maker (I hope) removed. I'll dissect it after dinner. My back and knees need a break.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 04-01-2024 at 06:36 AM.
In the old parts, like in the master cylinder reservoir, I found the floating debris to just be bits of the same film that lined the reservoirs when I drained them. I did not find anything that was solid, or appeared to be from a failing component. Just old fluid.
The debris in the pictures above is all from the new wheels cylinder, which I took apart to clean prior to install (and very glad I did).
I did make it out to the garage last night. My back was bothering me, so working on the drum was out. But working in that driver rear wheel well, I had seen my fuel tank vent close by. That reminded me that I had a used one (inoperative) that I wanted to try taking apart and cleaning. My original may be sticking....when I first got the car, it did not build tank pressure, but now it will.
I popped this one open, and it's problems are fairly obvious. Packed with mud and bug body parts. I don't know if something moved in to make a nest (what I suspect) or if this one was part of a parts car that sank into the mud (anything is possible).
I had saved photos and steps from another member here who disassembled and cleaned his, which I assume was from an '87 Camaro as the photos he took were on top of an '87 Camaro service manual. But his came apart a little differently than this one. I do not know what year/model the one I'm working on came off of.
This is where mine is a little different. The other fellow had one that separated further, allowing him to get to the diaphragm and spring to clean. This one seems to be moulded into one piece on that end. Note how dark it is down in the center of it.
Using the dental picks, an old toothbrush and some "L.A.'s Totally Awesome" cleaner, I was able to remove 98% of the dirt and debris inside. I used the pic to lift the spring, which having "flicked" it a few times, allowed the diaphragm to start moving.
Something it didn't do before, you can now here the springs vibrating when you tap the vent on a hard surface.
I remember those brake cylinder rings. I ended up having a friend pushing the cylinder inwards from the outside while I was using to thin screw drivers to get into the two openings and force the teeth apart, so that my friend could then pull the cylinder outward.
We spent an hour figuring this one out. Such a tight spot to work in and I'm happy to hear you were able to pull it off by yourself.
That clip is a pain for sure. I have the jacks under the axle, so I'm sitting at ride height, which I think puts some things in the way (bump stop and frame section it bolts to) that might not be in the way if the axle was hanging.
Not much progress in the last few days. Work and other obligations have gotten in the way. I did get the fuel filter bracket and it's fasteners media blasted, primed and painted (did I mention that already?). So I can crawl back under and install that when the drum is back together.
Feeling more and more like the trip in mid-May is off due to work, and some other reasons, but we'll see. Not ready to throw in the towel just yet.
Front brakes are gravity bleed, so the last of the brown brake fluid is gone. Driver front brake rebuilt and back together. Still need to do the strut on that side.
Passenger front is still apart, awaiting a strut cover. We have a new plan of action on that one, so stay tuned. Don't really want to mess with the rotor and pads on that side with the knuckle attached only at the lower ball joint, so brake work stops here for now.
FYI...the Hawk pads don't come with break-in info (pretty normal), so I called for their recommendations. Here's what they suggest.
6 to 10 stops from 30-35mph down to 5mph. Do NOT come to a complete stop.
2 to 3 stops from 45mph down to 5mph. Do NOT come to a complete stop.
Avoid STOP lights and signs.
Park the vehicle, and allow the brakes to cool at least 15 minutes. Overnight is OK.
Pads are now ready to use.
Got the rear compartment trim all reinstalled. Had left it out thinking it might aid access to the rear shocks, but that is not the case. As a matter of fact, all that loose trim in the cargo area was impeding my ability to roll the carpet back to get to the rear shock upper.
02-26-2024, 10:14 PM
