gk88

I have a 89 Camaro with the stock 305. I had my valve covers off the other day and noticed quite a bit of play coming from the spot I thought there was a tic. So I went with a short clip as I had never done this on my own and I just wanted to make so I didn't miss a step. I used a video from vice grip garage, didn't work. I used the manuals instructions, no luck. It turns over and if I just keep cranking it starts a small fire lol. Help me please.

Tom 400 CFI

What are you asking for help for, exactly? I see you got
*a "tick" sound,
*a possible no start condition? (a loose rocker/lifter tick won't prevent it from running)
*And a repeatable fire?

But you posted in detailing and appearance? What are the actual symptoms and what are you trying to have happen? And if it's a "no start", what engine do you have? 305 TPI? TBI? Someone's home-hacked carb swap? What you got going on here? Help us help you.

gk88

Thank you for the quick reply, sorry for the lack of and random pieces of info and for posting in the wrong spot. I'll start from the beginning.

305 TBI. Bought the car, came with headers and exhaust. Threw the headers on gave it a few days tightened everything up as it cured over those day. The drivers side valve cover was making more noise than I'm used to, I've been around these cars most of my life. So I took the covers off, read the manual, found TDC on 1 finished the first time with an extra 1/2 turn. And I went with what the book says to do in the correct order, turning the engine with my socket. The engine felt like it refused to turn over, like everything was WAY too tight. Did some reading and watched some videos. So I tried again with 1/4 turn at the end and again with no extra at the end. I asked someone, they told me they used the method described on vice grip garage, start loose, twist and tighten, all of them, 1/4 crank, rinse and repeat 4x.


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Tom 400 CFI

Got it, I think. Sounds like at this point, you're not sure if the rockers are too tight or too loose. There are a multitude of ways to do this, the way that *I* like to do it is this:
I'd start by loosening the rockers until they're for sure, too loose. Position the crank so that one cylinder is not "rocking" -the cam is on the base circle for that cylinder. You can do TDC (firing, of course -not between exhaust/intake!), or I'll just watch them "rock", exhaust, then intake as I turn the crank, then after intake closes, I'll go another ~1/2 turn of the crank or so, so I know I'm off the lobes for sure. With the rockers backed off, I'll tighten while spinning the push rod in my fingers. When the rocker gets to zero lash, the push rod will get hard to spin. Then I go another 1/2 turn. Do both intake/exhaust, then move on to the next cylinder. Repeat until all 8 are done.

Others will have different methods....I like this one b/c although it's slow, I KNOW and can see, that it's done and done right. If you get lifter tick after assuring that they're adjusted properly, I'd inspect the hardware; cam, lifter, push rod, rocker, spring, etc.

gk88

Awesome, thank you. I will definitely keep you updated. Heading back under the hood now to try this out.

SbFormula

I used the Vice Grip garage method also. Be aware though, you could still push the hydraulic lifter down without noticing and not be at 0 lash. I assume you are doing it with intake still in place. Make sure you feel the push rod up and down gently, not just turning it. It could turn and still press on the lifter. Weird that the engine is that hard to turn. Have you removed the accessory belt? It helps.

Just sayin'

Peace

Tom 400 CFI

It's pretty darned hard to spin the push rod, once it starts compressing an oil filled (already ran) lifter.