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Seller wanted $80, got the package for $60! It's the newer Harbor Freight model, came with a 10lb spool of Lincoln Electric Innershield NR-211-MP Flux-Cored Welding Wire — Mild Steel, All Position 0.035 wire (Retail $59) & Lincoln Electric Auto Darkening Helmet Model# K4438-1 (Retail $99). Then completed a PC service call otw home for a quick $20 back in the wallet. After a quick thanks to the man above I got it all setup, I'll test it out one day on some scrap floor pan metal. Maybe get good enough to do my own exhaust.
Edit: The welder cleaned up nice & the $30 matching Harbor Freight welding cart was a big plus. Total investment $90, if you count the $20 made back... a whopping $70!!! Can't beat that at all!
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 10-22-2020 at 10:32 AM.
Just got back from NAPA DealerTech, 4 wheel alignment special for $69. Turns out, I put the centerlink/tierod assembly together right but installed it backwards. They fixed it at no charge, greased everything up and completed the alignment. Steering is nice and tight, drives in a straight line with no pull to either side. They did find a broken swaybar link, and one of the castle nuts on an outter tierod is janky, it doesn't torque down. I told them I had an idler arm, lower bj's, sb links and wheel bearings left from the rebuild kit, they said my idler arm, lower bj's & wb's were good. I guess I'll reuse a leftover castle nut or hit a parts store, but I'll be installing the sb links today.
Edit: Swapped out the janky castle nut for one of the old ones, success, torqued to 35ftlbs and installed cotter pin. Now those sb endlinks... brought the mission to a stop. I either need some pb blaster, or my impact gun, because they wouldn't budge!
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 10-22-2020 at 12:39 PM.
The ThirdGen related deals keep piling up, bought this baffle board set-up today for $40. Yes the Dual 2Ohm Voice Coil Kicker CompVR10's were included. Did a quick connect in my 300 for sound test and they're operational. They even have deeper bass over the Pioneer 12's currently installed, might be the 2Ohm's vs 4Ohm operation.
Aye.... tis a majestic creature indeed... a unicorn of yesteryear's lore...
Congrats... I just got a gen 3 as well... not an IROC but a 1988 RS w/a 383ci... I love it!
Thanks, Heck your 88RS is CRISP & the upgrades... 450HP?!?!?!? A pure beast. If I'm lucky the members here will continue to help me bring my Z upto the crate 350's 300HP rating lol. Speaking of HP, I believe I saw headers on your setup... 3in cat back? I don't recall, sorry.
HP confuses me, OEM's (Jeg's) advertise like 300HP motor achieved with blah blah carb, headers & high flow exhaust... well what about a tpi setup? Will headers & 3in catback get me right to 300HP? I'm closing this Camaro season tightening up steering, suspension and breaks. Next season, I want some power!
It was such a nice day I brought the Z out. Might go ahead and order brakes/rotors, when they arrive have the wheel bearings packed and put in the rotors for a simpler install on my end. Still have some vibration at various road conditions, after those components I'll be out of options.
Also upgraded to the Campbell Hausfeld WG2160 MIG/FluxCore welder. After learning the hard way FluxCore isn't best for ThirdGen floor pans, a trip to a local bodyshop shed all the light I needed. Ditched the HF Flux 125 *unit only* for $90 (paid $60) to offset the $100 paid for the new to me MIG unit below. Olsen Premium gauges $30, Full Sz#1 - 20CuFt bottle of Argon Mix was $72. The two empty sz#3 - 80CuFt tanks I scored on craigslist for $40 for both, they easily sell for $255 ea empty.
The mini bottle should get me through practice and fine tuning the machine...
At this rate a new exhaust is definitely coming soon!
Back for another ThirdGen season! Freshly charged battery from storage, ripped the cover off & popped the hood, installed and she fired right up! Drove her twice in the last 3 days. I must find the source of and tackle this front end vibration when cruising 50+ mph and when the brakes are applied. Other than that...
We're rolling .
Here we are again! I absolutely neglected all DIY projects last season in favor of just driving the ish out of the Z last March-October, might have started the RS 3 times in all of 2021. This season I have to take a different approach and enjoy them! #1, after running through batteries letting the car(s) sit, not started for weeks even months at a time I'll be pulling the battery this season keeping it charged indoors. #2, I mentioned ordering or doing breaks back in 2020 I believe... I ordered them in 2021 but never did them. If I can motivate myself I'll do them in a week or two. I kicked myself in the rear looking at my NIB Chrome Grant racing wheel, and GM Licensed Bowtie Horn Button collect dust so to see if I was still "man enough" to hang with the real Third Gen'ers I dusted off the GMSM/Chilton's books and went at it. Needless to say I can still turn a wrench, I can still use a wheel puller and the install was successfull. Next up will be the chrome valve covers. While typing this I've come to a few questions...
- Is TurnerPro still a thing?
- Can different tire treds on rears vs fronts cause front end vibration? The vibration I'm chasing down is very noticiable at highway speeds, and am wondering if I should revisit this concern after doing the brakes & rotors.
- Are people still getting ROASTED and FLAMED without mercy by some of the more sr and well respected Vets here ? I recall some threads that'd make you spit coffee, beer or whatever you were drinking at the time lol right out with laughter that'd make your side hurt.
Hope everyone is in good health and positive spirits!
Well, while working through Help: Code 13 & Code 32 Only @ Highway Speeds I made a lengthy datalog, big problem... well for me is... I can't get my TunerPro to fill in any of the Histograms! I had them before, even re downloaded the .adx file, even created a new RPM Vs INT Table, set to 13 Rows/Columns, Chose Tach vs INT w/ output in INT and nothing. No Tach reading along the left, no numbers across the top just 0's everywhere, once I saw a 128 in the lower right farthest box but that was it. I can upload the Log in a bit, but any setting related suggestions?
Thank goodness for Trial & Error! Hmmm, per my GMSM anything below 128 is "too rich". This gives me some insight on a code based approach to my Help: Code 13 & Code 32 Only @ Highway Speedsthread... might tackle the Code 13 first, because the Code 32 will set based on being stuck on either Lean or Rich. The log this screenshot came from has period where the BLM is stuck on 118 while INT never changes from 128.
Another thing I've been dealing with is this pesky front end vibration. Went and got an alignment a while back, and forgot all about the tech telling me I had a broken link, I asked could drive still and like a dumbass I paid for the alignment, tipped for helping me w/ the Centerlink/Tie Rod assembly and left. Yes, some way I installed the centerlink assembly "backwards" and they fixed it free. Fast forward to today, I'm out there had the car up just looking around and boom.... I found a Sway Bar End Link demolished & luckily I had 2 new ones from the Front End rebuild kit on the shelf. The problem now is that I can't get the old one off. Saturated it with PB Blaster, waited several minutes, grabbed the impact.... Socket on top, Impact from below... Flat out NO-GO.
Driver Side: Looks old but in tact
Passenger Side: DOA and I suspect the primary cause of the remaining front end vibration
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 07-24-2022 at 03:20 PM.
Off with the old, this part put a few hair on my chest lol
On with the new... NOT SO MUCH...
How on earth do I get that in place? If I let the car down, no clearance... with no "load" on the wheel... still won't go... WTH
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO like Rick Flair. Now that I found a sweet spot, barely jacked up off the ground I got in place. Dang if I can't find a torque spec in my GMSM, I guess I'll go hand tight, lower all the way squeeeeeeeeze back under there and tighten until I cant.
Tighten the nut until the bushings bulge enough that they're flush with the washers. The nut will run a long way down the thread before that happens.
You've got the washers assembled backwards. The cup side of the washers always face the bushing (bushing sits in the cup). You're going to have to take it all apart and do it again.
Bolt comes in from the bottom and the nut is installed from the top side.
Tighten the nut until the bushings bulge enough that they're flush with the washers. The nut will run a long way down the thread before that happens.
You've got the washers assembled backwards. The cup side of the washers always face the bushing (bushing sits in the cup). You're going to have to take it all apart and do it again.
Bolt comes in from the bottom and the nut is installed from the top side.
First, thank you for chiming in!
"The cup side of the washers always face the bushing (bushing sits in the cup)." I saw this in several YT vids, issue was the ones that came in my eBay Front End Rebuild kit have flat washers, as in flat on both sides. "Bolt comes in from the bottom and the nut is installed from the top side." This concerns me. I have no issue tearing it down for a redo because that's how we learn but I will say that I installed it in the same orientation as the old one would've been removed had the nut came loose with my impact. The installation also matches the current orientation of the untouched drivers side as shown in the pics above. I really wish this was clear in the GMSM lol.
It's no big deal which way the bolt installs as long as the exposed thread is in a safe place where it doesn't get bumped and bent. I prefer nut on top side. And I think my car has always been that way.
I'd reuse the stock cupped washers if they're still in decent shape.
With the Z down for maintenance, I think I'll gather up some other parts for quick fixes. Yesterday I ordered a new EGR/HVAC Vacuum check valve, OPS Connector & Lower Radiator hose for my 92.
Today, I've searched ALL of TGO... why is there no list of OEM vacuum line / rubber hose sizes, for Christs sake I couldn't find a single list. I even stumbled across a TGO Vet asking, and they said if no reply they were breaking out the caliper lol then they ghosted the thread. I want to replace all hoses but the only thing I've found is 5/32 or 4mm Windshield Wiper/Vacuum Tube SAE J1037 which fits everything from the EGR/HVAC Vac check valve over and around to the tee, off to the Cruise Control and down to the Vacuum Ball in the fender.
On the cheap.... You can buy a couple inches of bulk hose for a bunch of sizes and have your own "hose checker" tool kit. Kind of like owning a bolt thread checker only this is a lot cooler.
On the cheap.... You can buy a couple inches of bulk hose for a bunch of sizes and have your own "hose checker" tool kit. Kind of like owning a bolt thread checker only this is a lot cooler.
My parts store wasn't that nice, went over there and got a firm... "By the foot". I'm glad I went though. Snagged a few ft of 5/32, and 1ft 9/32. They were kind enough to cut me a sliver of ea size, like slightly larger than an o-ring, just to make sure it fit over the nipple LOL so I found 9/32 will work for the EVAP canister to hardline that connects to the intake.
Yessssss (fist pump), OPS connector pigtail was delivered today, while prepping, and replacing some vacuum lines I was shocked to find the line coming from the tee down to the vacuum ball was a GM Original, as in marked 5/32 GM-6148-M 10 13 89, and the ends were in very poor shape but the parts of the hose hidden by the fender looked ok. I'm honestly not sure how it was even hanging on to the vacuum ball.
Found that while troubleshooting my "Car sat for 4 days or so... battery died?" thread I think I unknowingly made progress on the "Help: Code 13 & Code 32 Only @ Highway Speeds" thread. I replaced the line from tee to vacuum ball and tee off to cruise control and today the OPS... well out on my test drive I hit the highway and the motor seemed stronger, and thanks to the new SB end link NO Wheel vibration and most importantly no SES light with speeds reaching 80mph, which is a record for this IROC of mine lol. I'm thinking those new vacuum lines were more important than I thought, I'll be replacing the rest and the check valve.
The forward progression continues! Was monitoring the voltage at battery while running, saw a sharp drop from 14.5/6V down to close to 13.5. Since I know FOR SURE the OPS connector & OPS are new and produce a 0.01ma draw, I closed up the hood and ran to AutoZone. Man says turn your car off, turned it off. He connected a battery analyzer and BOOM New battery off the shelf w/ a 100% charge failed testing, 0 Cranking Amp Output. I said no way, went to start the SOB back up... CLICK, CLICK, CLICK. He used this jump box to get me going, got home and ordered this $35 gem off amazon...
Slapped this Econopower (Interstate) 5/22 stamped battery on there and BOOM
Glad I called the place I bought the battery and have a 90 day warranty
And right out of the clear blue, I started noticing Oil on the ground. I always had a drip from the timing chain cover, and I mean a sloooow drip. This was further back, so I got down there and my oil filter was oily to the touch and dripped from the center of the bottom of the filter. I thoroughly checked my install of the OPS and it's BONE DRY, but I noticed the filter was hand loose so I tightened it as much as I could by hand while under there. It still leaked so I've been scratching my head a few days and said forget this it can't be that hard to change my own oil.
Today ran to Manard's grabbed a Quaker State 5Qt jug of 5W-20 High Millage oil, I had a new STP filter on the shelf and just bought a Oil Drain container & Oil Filter Socket set from Harbor Freight yesterday. Drained the oil on my last break, tackled the change as soon as I got off ensuring I cleaned the mating surface and everything around where the filter screws in. Filled filter 1st, ran finger across the top to lube the gasket and installed it. Filled the oil & started her up, drove around a bit, parked and my gosh the filter was DRY, went in for a while came back and still dry so I hope it holds. Either mine just wasn't as tight as it should have been to seal at it's original install (WalMart $20 Oil Change), the model I had isn't one of their higher end ones or FRAM Oil Filters just aren't as good as advertised!
Just when I thought I was in the clear with this ThirdGen... the universe decided otherwise... hit the hatch release switch to check it's operation, heard a loud CLICK, and I heard the motor lifting the hatch I got excited...
Problem, the SOB will not close! Sound familiar well its because my 92 has something on the fritz with it's hatch pull down assembly too. I'm wondering if they have a kit to convert this motorized **** to a normal open/close system, because between the 2 cars, and my level of anger... I will straight sell both fully running cars tomorrow. I'm not about to have a stroke over something I love. I'd like to know why GM even used this BS system???????????????? Don't say because people would slam the hatch and break the glass well what TF you think was going to happen if this POS assembly took a crap and someone Hulk Smashed the SOB closed. Sorry for the rant but both cars are a step away from Pick-N-Pull SCRAP (breathes deeply) because it seems like it's one problem RIGHT after another and damnit sometimes 2 or more issues at the same damn time lol
Took some time to relax, I found this on lunch... anything look out of place? Last time the hatch was opened... the floor was vacuumed. Yes the assembly has play back/forth, no up/down play without holding that hidden button. I've read about 10K threads related to dang Assembly Guide failure.....
New guides arrived, battled the mosquitos and limited light after work but got them installed, no more back/forth play. Outcome... Sq1, damn thing still will not close. I've moved the assembly up/down, and left/right and to my untrained naked eye everything "looks" to be aligned/square in the center of opening in the trim piece and the loop just will not seat. If I finger press the blk switch closest to me the unit still goes all the way down to click, if I let go it brings itself up. On the verge of dropping it off at the dealership...
Why is the loop on the trunk lid not seating in the locking mechanism although it's right in the freaking groove?
Did you speak to Lon about the issues you are having? He's a retailer, not a help line, but when I ran into issues rebuilding mine, he WAS very helpful.
Before leaning on Lon over at the well respected TDS, I decided to take ONE more stab at it, and I just have ONE question... Is my hatch out of alignment? I happened to notice the PO replaced those lift struts, and read another 10K threads on Hatch Alignment that's fouled up by Super Struts... take a look at this pic... does it appear the Lock Loop Outer edge is hitting the locking assembly latch thing on the edge not truly in the center???? The lock thing worked with the screwdriver trick
This is absolute BULL, I know all the parts are working, what I now know even more is that it's the hatch alignment. Anyone have any suggestions on how to free the circled nut? It just spins the whole bolt like someone overtightened it, the blk part on the top is noticeably flatter than the other 3 too so vise grips and channel locks were a no-go.
Even took off the trim covering the loop thing, removed the loop thing and when positioned right it works just like screwdriver trick in the locking mechanism. Also noticed that the loop on the plate its welded to sits at a major angle, I'm tempted to drill out the holes long ways so I can just slide it forward an inch bolt it back down and say F the Hatch Alignment, I can't afford the bodyshop labor for this right now and don't know how to free that stuck nut/bolt..
This is absolute BULL, I know all the parts are working, what I now know even more is that it's the hatch alignment. Anyone have any suggestions on how to free the circled nut? It just spins the whole bolt like someone overtightened it, the blk part on the top is noticeably flatter than the other 3 too so vise grips and channel locks were a no-go.
Even took off the trim covering the loop thing, removed the loop thing and when positioned right it works just like screwdriver trick in the locking mechanism. Also noticed that the loop on the plate its welded to sits at a major angle, I'm tempted to drill out the holes long ways so I can just slide it forward an inch bolt it back down and say F the Hatch Alignment, I can't afford the bodyshop labor for this right now and don't know how to free that stuck nut/bolt..
You may have to post this as a new topic in the body section.
With the hatch matter resolved , I've enjoyed opening and closing it a few times just for the hell of it lol. I also lucked up on a 140mph cluster for $150 this morning. It required a rebuild (PCB on the back was damaged) but I used a spare 110mph and swapped what I needed. Got it installed, and the OPS gauge is pegged beyond 60 and oddly the rpm's start off at 3500 at start but settle just below the 3K mark but they move with acceleration... I'm assuming the little circuit board is shot or needs adjustment, the Speedo, Fuel, and Battery gauges are working normal.
With the hatch issue resolved, I have one issue bothering me... I don't recall it always doing it but at 1st startup within the first 3-4 minutes it'll do this surge or loop but never stalls. I'd describe it like a push mower running and letting the handle go BUT grabbing the handle again before it actually dies so it runs like nothing ever happened. Any ideas?
And just like that... had to get a tow home... she left me stranded at NAPA and wouldn't start. Wouldn't even start using a jump pack, got a ride all the way home and pulled the working battery out of my 92RS got back to NAPA only for her NOT to start and my 1990 GMSM doesn't have a No Start: No Crank troubleshooting guide.
Security light on? If not, Begin at the starter. Get it safely in the air so you can get under it. Power down at the starter? Power going to the solenoid wire when an assistant has the key turned? Those will point you in the first directions.
Security light on? If not, Begin at the starter. Get it safely in the air so you can get under it. Power down at the starter? Power going to the solenoid wire when an assistant has the key turned? Those will point you in the first directions.
Yes, the Security light comes on for a few moments and goes off. My normal starting procedure is insert the key, turn to KOEO position, I see the SES light, I wait for FP to prime & security light to come on / go off then I turn the key to the start position. Normally it cranks for 5-10 seconds or so and turns over, the SES light goes off and she's running but now all I get is the symptoms outlined in my HELP: Car Died - No Start/No Crank Condition thread. My jack & most tools are stuck at my parents house, so it might be a day or so before I can get her in the air and start checking for pwr at the starter.
Thank you very much for chiming in and giving me somewhere to start!
So I've learned in my HELP: Car Died - No Start/No Crank Condition thread that it's likely the ignition switch. Stumbled upon this thread from 08' Ignition Cylinder Replacement, post #19 was dedicated to Ignition Switch replacement. It included full instructions & stated "STEERING WITH TILT : US105 , STEERING NON TILT : US95" and I immediately ordered a Standard Motor Products US105 Ignition Switch. Odd thing is Per Amazon it's not a fit for the 1990 Camaro, but for $20 with 1 day delivery we'll see very soon.
Well I was back on the road all of 30hrs or so, maybe 48hrs after replacing the Ignition Switch & Starter but dang if I didn't go to head out for pizza tonight... and get NO headlights but everything else pwr wise is fully operational. I just had headlights last night when I went for food. I grabbed the HFT test Light, connected to ground and probed at the Head Light Connector, got nothing on the Tan or Green wire. A quick glance at the Hayne's wiring diagram and it looks like they get pwr from the dimmer switch, which is powered by the Pull **** HL Switch. When the pull **** switch is in the 1st position, I get the yellow side marker lights. When in the 2nd position the side marker lights stay on but noooooooo High or Low Beams. The damn dimmer switch is mounted to the Ignition Switch ontop the column and I'm not getting down there tonight.
With the beautiful day, came beautiful test results! Took the HFT Test Light out on lunch, rigged it up. Dropped the column to seat, and probed that blasted dimmer switch! Found pwr on Yellow Wire feeding the switch only when Pull **** HL switch in 2nd position but No Pwr on Green or Tan wire that should feed the HL's from the switch. Loosened the 2 bolts, slid the switch forward and tightened down and still no Hi/Lo beam headlights but ALL other lights, blinkers are functional. I'm going to order a new Dimmer Switch and pray it fixes it.
Standard Motor Products Part # DS79T Dimmer switch arrived yesterday, installed it this morning and by gosh my headlights are back! I love the feeling of a successful repair!
Was under the hood, just enjoying the TPI view and I noticed my plug wires resting on the dang driver side exhaust, visibly scorched. Last time I changed them I do not recall seeing any factory "wire holders" if that's what they're called. I have stock manifolds w/ AIR system... had to zip tie em up on the rubber AIR hose. Anyone know if there's a holder doohickey, or where it bolts too?
Also, the new wires and the old wires may be different diameter, so oem holders won't fit the newer, thicker wires. You can find similar generic type ones from parts warehouses.
10-20-2020, 07:11 PM
. 
still getting ROASTED and FLAMED without mercy by some of the more sr and well respected Vets here 
for God's sake HELP...
will not close! Sound familiar well its because my 92 has something on the fritz with it's hatch pull down assembly too. I'm wondering if they have a kit to convert this motorized **** to a normal open/close system, because between the 2 cars, and my level of anger... I will straight sell both fully running cars tomorrow. I'm not about to have a stroke over something I love. I'd like to know why GM even used this BS system???????????????? Don't say because people would slam the hatch and break the glass well what TF you think was going to happen if this POS assembly took a crap and someone Hulk Smashed the SOB closed. Sorry for the rant but both cars are a step away from Pick-N-Pull SCRAP (breathes deeply) because it seems like it's one problem RIGHT after another and damnit sometimes 2 or more issues at the same damn time lol 
too so vise grips and channel locks were a no-go. 
, I've enjoyed opening and closing it a few times just for the hell of it lol. I also lucked up on a 140mph cluster for $150 this morning. It required a rebuild (PCB on the back was damaged) but I used a spare 110mph and swapped what I needed. Got it installed, and the OPS gauge is pegged beyond 60 and oddly the rpm's start off at 3500 at start but settle just below the 3K mark but they move with acceleration... I'm assuming the little circuit board is shot or needs adjustment, the Speedo, Fuel, and Battery gauges are working normal. 
I love the feeling of a successful repair! 