Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Well the driver side I took off due to some rust being under there and then reinstalled it but had to get some new door clips for it. The passenger on the other hand, I just sanded and painted over it. I do agree with you they make it easier but why remove them now?

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Just putting up a few updates. The Cam is currently down the street at a neighbors house being worked on. My neighbor is helping me out and fixing the dent on the driver side rear quarter for me, so in the mean time I am just doing the other things that I can work on.

Before sending it off, I just had to snap this picture, The passenger side quarter is flawless and just amazes me how far I have come.



With the car gone til tomorrow, I decided to fix the front spoiler gfx. I decided to first use epoxy glue to get the cracks somewhat even, My method to fix it are: Epoxy glue back and front -> Sand the front even -> Do a coat of Fiberglass -> Resand and Primer.



I also tinted my Turning signals, I did 1 light coat of vht then 1 medium coat and 3 coats of clear. Turned out great, just the tint level I love.



Last thing to fix besides the body is the Dash pad. Here is the bad spot on it. I am gonna use the same method as the front spoiler gfx. So basically, Sand > Glue > Resand > Fiberglass > Sand > Coat. I will see how this holds up until I can find a good pad from a yard.





Thats pretty much it, right now I am mainly dealing with that rear quarter dent and getting the hood aligned. I still have to get a new front bumper due to how warped it is and headlight bar having broken studs. Why attempt to fix it when a good used one can pop up for under $50

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Haha some of you guys are gonna hate me but today when going to a local yard just by randomness to bring home some more extra screws, they had a wrecked 91-92 there that was hit from both sides. I then saw and almost screamed in joy to see it had a rear window louver, It was in perfect shape just needs paint. I have a question though, Any way to tell if its a gm product and not aftermarket? Its alum and has the opening for the 3rd brake light.

Still an amazing pick with working hardware as I can tell for $35. I will take pictures of it tomorrow, I seriously haven't taken out my wallet faster for anything like this.

Chrome on Rust

iTrader: (1)

In that pic of your dash. Did some one hit thier head in a fender bender or something it sure looks like it. Or its the classic fist to the dash .

See you have the old style raidio in there props. I had to take mine out, need me some CD's to jam to when that stock 305 of mine is screaming down the road. (not so much)

Def want to see some pics of the window louver not sure what your talking about.

Good job on the car man seams to be coming along nicely.

Awesome-X

Its definitely getting there, post some pics of that dash pad when you're done I'd like to see how it turns out. How did you fix your rear quarter?

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Haha naw, its worse. My family used it as leverage to get out the car and that happened. I like my headunit, I hardly used my aftermarket unit and 99% I had the radio station on and I really disliked how it looked. So I said screw it and got this one.

I will take down from the garage tomorrow to take pictures, I put it on the top section of my garage where I store extra parts.


@AwesomeX I just finished my front gfx and man did it turn out great. Hopefully I dont go around and re-scrape it and crack it again. The rear quarter was fixed by my neighbor, he got the dent out for me and did an amazing job. I might have him cut out and weld the bottom section of the quarter as well.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Well with trying to get it running again, new pump has fixed the problems but with some time to waste before Paint gets here I decided to tackle doing some TBI mods.

TBI is the devil.

Awesome-X

What tbi mod are you doing? Tbi is simple stuff lol

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

It is but bleh. I plan to do simple things, grinding the ridges flat, injector assembly spacer and base spacer. My TBI unit is really really dirty, I plan to give it a good cleaning and I kinda want to get my intake one too but not right now.


My father teased with me today, He got ahold of a really nice looking American racing wheels and I loved them and offered to I guess ''trade'' in my C5 wheels for them, We tried them on and I loved them, but the bad thing is he just got ahold of em to sell em since they already have a buyer. The wheels were similar to TT's. I plan to ditch my vette wheels for a similar style and drop it some more. Maybe in the next few months.

MT91Camaro

Ha! I had one on an S-10 and hated it. Then again it was massively dirty, and I doubt the injectors were clean and/or had a good spray pattern.

Did you have to adjust the rear hatch? If i could get the glass 1/4 to 1/2 an inch closer to the body I would be happy. I have played around with it but for some reason....it just isn't making sense to me on the fore and aft adjustment.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Thats on my to do list after I get it running, I have the rear dropped and the tank as well but I have to go around hunting for a new pump, I found a pump thats a slight upgrade (Part #E3268). Right now its only about 1/4 of an inch out of alignment.

I got all of the body work done but I need to get it running and running good. I rebuilt the TBI and man was it dirty. Bad thing is the $ for the gasket kit, I recall getting the kit for $8 from Autozone about a year ago, now the cheapest was $26 from Oreilly.

I got some extra POR-15 so I plan to clean my rear end, Still havent decided if I should grind the cover clean or get a good looking one. I also have to go yard hunting for some fuel lines and a good PVC line. I have my hands full this week.

MT91Camaro

when you do it, please share how. i have scoured the forums but the only answer i have found is to adjust the rear deck plate. i know this will line up the body and the spoiler...but not the body to glass.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Maybe this can help you out Mt,





Go to my album if you need to copy them if you can't do so by those links, but you do that in Firefox via right click and View image.

Edit: Just noticed their a bit small but still readable on my screen though (1920x1200) but let me know if you want them a bit bigger.

MT91Camaro

[quote=Carlos773;4588316]Maybe this can help you out Mt,



ok...here is what i dont get. in my chiltons, the hinge picture looks like the one you showed. the pic that i got from the dealership shows the style of hinge that is on my car. if i were able to flip my hinge around, it would work perfect...but then the part that attaches to the glass rubs right on the inside lip.

it has me thinking that gm made 2 different hinges....one maro and one bird perhaps? i found a pic on hawks of some used ones, but for me its not much help. if i decide to work on that part of the car, i will try to remember to take a pic of them.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

My garage is a bit dark and I broke our lamp but I will check it out tomorrow.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

wow this car is getting there! i'd like to see how it works out!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Well right now paint is on hold, I am installing a working fp today and I might of found a rear disk rear end from a T/A from a local small yard. A friend that works there says he will talk to them to sell to me for $75 if I take it off and would have a worker of theirs move the car into a better spot for me to remove the rear end. They also had a 4th gen LT1 that already had drivetrain sold and has a good rear end from what he tells me. Still I belive its a hell of a deal for $75 and 4th gen disk rear for $100 if I want it when the car gets into the yard.

The T/A is TPI which I would assume its probably a 5.0? He also gave me a hell of a deal on the tpi setup for $95 or $110 with wiring or just $250 for the whole engine and wiring but I will see about that when I go today and the car is not ontop of some random car. Here are some pictures of the T/A, I already picked the glass t-tops and got em for free since I had $20 credit from returning a old distributor my uncle didnt end up using. Working keys too.









Another yard that is more bigger and known and about 45 mins from here had recently gotten a 91-92 Z28, It was there for about 5 days before I got there and was already stripped with no doors, blisters, aero wing and interior parts . It had a 115 cluster which I would assume it was a 5.0, my luck . Also they did a hack job to remove the doors and bent the fenders instead of removing them and bent both rocker gfx, Bastards.

Awesome-X

What a shame, that poor trans am. I wish yards around here would have stuff like that every now and then, maybe I'd have a nicer car. How many rims does that have on it?

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Just the rears, driver side rear was bent in probably by the lift driver. They also had a red formula which the interior was all sold already. Belive or not the guy who junked the T/A junked it due to a bad fp and has all new injectors and ignition and decided to give up on it. It has 109k miles according to the tach but has some good rust on it.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

I bet that was the main reason for getting junked. did you get to see the floors/frame?

yoshirocks702

wow great work on the camaro!! it looks like its coming along nicely, can't wait to see it done

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Both floors were bent upwards probably from the operator lifting it wrong but the wheel wells did look horrible. I had fun with a screw driver and every poke went through like butter. Sometimes I would love to give the people who are junking a third gen the money yards pay them and part the cars and make some good $. Sadly the small yard I always visit gives around $175 and less if they tow it. Both the birds they have had amazing interiors and so have the Camaros they had. They also had a Iroc-z there for a long time, even back when I acquired my Cam in 07 and most of it was still there now.

@Yoshi, Thanks! Right now I have not done much, and I am gonna have to go back and re-sand and recoat it since its got countless grease hands on it. When you are trying to remove the gas tank and trying to remove 18 year old Panhard Bar bolts, sometimes they wont. So a good torching and hammering comes in.

Right now I am just trying to get her running again, so far on the to do list is:


1. Find a throttle body fuel line I need from a yard. (Prices from users here with shipping kill it for me)
2. Install replacement FP and re-do the rubber lines I cut.
3. Clean the rear end and coat it with chassis saver as well as the undercarriage of the car while I am under there.
4. Put everything back together.
5. Re-sand top primer coat.
6. Re-coat primer coat.
7. Seal it.
8. Drive it.


I am not gonna have time to paint it this year it seems, I plan to go either go back to work or sadly go to Uti to kill some time and see where that leads in July.

Chrome on Rust

iTrader: (1)

3:08 AM go get some sleep boy

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

I took your advice and did yesterday!


Well anyways, I got everything I need to get the car back together besides Panhard bar bolts which I might have to end up ordering from Spohn for a pretty penny.

I was happy that I got a working FP for free but then with the costs of a new fuel strainer ($10), Fuel Filter ($15), replacement rubber fuel lines from tank feeds ($15) and fixing my screw up on the TB line I bent and messed up ($6). It turned out to be what the pump would cost. Ohh and add $30 for the Panhard bar and brace bolts. Well it was a learning experience I guess.


I should have everything back and built and tank back in later today hopefully and atleast have her fire up for the first time in 3 weeks without any problems.

Anyways random things have been going on in the last week, for some reason I have really wanted to find a T5 third gen at local yards. I kinda would not mind doing the swap sometime in the future and would be nice to have a manual. The Bird I had before was manual and I loved it. Who knows, dont be surprised if I come and spam pictures of a T5 setup I scored.

RyanEricW

Lookin good, but did you put those rims on there? Don't match the car all imho.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

What the C5's? Yea they came with the car when it came into the family in 07. Well it only came with 3 of em and a Firebird chicken wheel.

Here are some pictures that I did not post in the original post. I think they look great imo, but I am in love and want the original 91-92 wheels.

RyanEricW

Hahahaha, firebird rim! Damn man, yeah not tryin to be a dick or anything was just saying. The rims almost look ok in one of the pics, but I do agree with you, the 91-92 rims...are perfect. Get a set if you can, I need 1 new rim and 2 center caps. I'm hurtin!

RyanEricW

That saturn is a second gen SL2. Decent DOHC motors. 9.1:1 compression, transaxels did have a weird issue with the dif pin popping out the side of the manual transmissions case under peculiar circumstances LOL.
I had one for a hs beater and learner car when I first started working on vehicles. Simple things to learn off of!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Yea its an Sl2. Well the car was given to us since they thought it was totalled. Luckly we found a exact same car and color in a local yard and got both fenders, hood and front bumper for $125 and $25 for both headlights and brackets for them too. We sold the car for $950 and made a good profit. The money went into new American racing wheels and tires for my fathers 89 Caprice Classic.


As for my Cam, I got the FP back into the tank and its all ready to go. Throttle body fuel line I recently got was installed as well. All that remains is to put the tank back up, strap it and let her roar. It should wake up my neighborhood pretty good since I had to saw off my exhaust and plan to leave it off for now. Maybe install a Dynomax bullet muffler. My fathers CC is a 305 TBI with stock headers and had exhaust done with a cheap bullet muffler and I love the sound. Hopefully with my Edelbrock TES headers it would be a bit more throaty and have a better tone, if so, perfect!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

She runs! After getting or well beating the tank back in and getting all the new lines hooked up it was ready for a start. This pump is very strong and you can hear it when you turn the key and hear it. Of course like always, when you are exited to start it, the Battery has to be drained . After an hour later, she started right up and stronger than ever. Now time to get back to the body work.

Also, I seriously expected the car to sound 400x meaner and louder than normal and well, it sounds just like it would on a cold start but I expected more . I am currently running it from the 2 1/4 to 2 1/4 Y pipe to Cat then merged to a 3' and straight pipe that ends near the diff. My generic muffler I had would only cut down the noise at warm idle but sounds good when you step on it. I loved it, but I might just get something louder for now and get a bullet muffler and see how that turns out.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

''Small'' Update, I started working on her again today and got alot done. All thats left is just sanding the filler thats left which is 2 spots as you can see in the pictures below near the gas tank filler hole and 3 other small spots on the driver door. Theres 2 deep dings or well scratches that need to be sanded down to primer to even them out. Also a small quarter sized low spot needs to be sanded as well. Other than that just about a days work and getting the GFX repaired and primed as well!

Enjoy the pictures and I threw in a night time engine bay picture. I plan to do a A/C delete this week as well.

MT91Camaro

after seeing your engine bay...im looking forward to having no room to change spark plugs in mine.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

Looking nice... sorry if you already mentioned it but what did you do with the rot on your quarter panels, like here?

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

My engine bay is pretty clean and well driver side can be done easily, Passenger? Not so much. That is why I am removing the A/C since it leaks and compressor is going bad.

@ Muscle, What I did was clean the metal and took off any loose metal. I then had my neighbor weld in L peice of metal and had him grind it as smooth as he can and put a layer of filler to fill in any imperfections. Still not 100% correct as I would want it, but it would do for now until i can find a decent third gen at yards to cut metal from.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

About the AC... DON'T DO IT!!!!! I'm not sure how warm it gets in Chicago but if this car is gonna be driven, you're gonna SORELY regret pulling your air conditioning. Just get it fixed since you're in this deep into the car and you'll be happy later. I pulled the non-functioning AC in my 91 TA convertible when fixing it up and after sitting in that car in 90+degree temps in heavy traffic yesterday... well you get the idea. But if the car isn't gonna be a DD like mine is in the warm months then I guess you can get away without it lol.

And about the rust repair, that's a pretty good job. Better than just fiberglassing it!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

I drove the car for a whole year before doing this work and not removing the t-tops for that summer and it was fine, only thing that bothered me was getting in it during a hot day, once you let it cool down it was fine.

Either way, I really think I am gonna do it, The A/C Pulley is not that expensive and well, I fixed the t-tops from leaks so better belive I am use them now. Still I am not throwing away everything, Its getting stored just in case I regret it.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

Oh ok, it's your car so do what you want lol. I guess it's alright without AC as long as you're not stuck in traffic with absolutely no wind... sucks big time. But today I got away with driving around topless in the 95+degree weather CT is experiencing. And I meant to say that it's cool watching another kid my age fix up a nice thirdgen. I had a good time working on mine during the winter.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Yea, most kids my age around here are into tuners or are just not into cars at all, a High school friend has a 87~ Rx7 that he claims has a 20B and V mounted turbo system and says its super fast on the highway. The car is 3 diff colors and has non-functional vented fenders and rims that cost more than the car probably. He bought a late 80's T/A not long ago and the first time I saw it it was from my room window and then I asked him about it and said its super fast and has a Th350 and cost him 3k. Last time I saw it on the street, it did not even look like it was worth $1200. . Another friend I haven't talked to but lives a block before me has this early 90's Civic that he has I guess riced up. He covered his hood in Carbon fiber film and installed hood pins from Autozone and a detachable steering wheel. Last time I saw him I told him who is gonna want to steal that. . Another friend I have had for a long time is actually trying to get into the Thirdgen world but his bearly saving up.


Anyways enough with the stories, I got some things done today. I really don't see why I am trying to get the doors as perfect as I can but their in rough shape. Both are dinged up and took some hammering and some filler to get straight. Well the Driver side I am working on now was fine but somehow got dinged up when it was in the garage. I got it as straight as I could today but to be honest, I might replace both doors down the road with better ones though. They have the most work from the whole car at the moment. They will do for now. I also just loosely put on the ground effects back in since their next to get prepped and primed and wow. I just want to get it back together again and drive it around. Too bad I have to wait for those damm panhard bolts. Anyways some pictures.


Stupid door needs more work than the rest of the car.




Nothing a Paint/Rust stripper wheel cant take care off with some Etching primer!




Looks good, maybe this weekend she can come out to play.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Did I read that you're wanting to ditch the vette wheels for stock '91/'92 wheels? I may consider selling the stock wheels from my car. I have a 4th gen rear end so it's not like I'd ever use them again because the rears would stick out a bit further than normal. They've got good rubber on them too (and expensive at that...Yokohama AS430's).

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Yea, I like these wheels but I want the stock 91-92 wheels. I really do not know what mine will fetch though. Their pretty beat up. I think they should be enough for a good trade with spacers but who knows. If a trade does not come up, I might as well get them fixed up and keep running them.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I'd sell you the four of mine with tires for $300, which considering how much rubber is on the tires, is a pretty good deal. I paid $750 for the set of four tires back when they were brand new.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a good deal, although right now my money would be tied up to getting her painted. I really want the 91-92 wheels, so dont be surprised if you get a pm soon if you still have em.

Chrome on Rust

iTrader: (1)

Sox poster thats what i like to see!
(Just another one of my random chime ins)

And good job so far.

Im trying to get mine going again as well was putting the Y-pipe back on
2 days ago, changed out the floors in my camaro, and i was like 2
turns away from geting it tighened up on each nut and Snap. Grrr.
So now today i have to drill it out and make some new threads.
Since that happend theres no way im going to leave any of the old studs on.
I hate back tracking. I was so close...
Oh well at least I will know I should not have any leakes there when I get done.

Good luck geting her rolling
I know i cant wait

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

She will be outside tomorrow for sure.


I got the driver side done. All thats left is giving her a quick 320 grit pass and take a ride. I plan to make it worth wild since I have not driven her in over 4 months.

Anyways, some pictures! Also doors might be straight for now, but under the primer I know the evils. Their getting replaced first soon.

'87IROCZOWNER69

iTrader: (1)

Alot of kids at my school arent into third gens or muscle cars whatsoever! When I got my IROC in February only one other kid at the school had a muscle car and he had a 91 camaro RS which either has a V6 or the 305 but it isnt very loud so I think it is the V6. But from then up til may a bunch of other people started getting them! Like at the end of the school year there was a late 80s 5.0 mustang, 86 IROC, and a early 90s RS that had the lifted hood. I know there are more but these are the only ones I can think of. It started to **** me off that so many kids were getting Camaros because I kind of liked being the only one with one (well there was the other kid but mine is faster!)

Dartht33bagger

Really? I'm the only one at my school with a third gen camaro. There is 2 fourth gens, my camaro, and then a third gen firebird. Sometimes my friend drives his dads 1971 Chevelle malibu, but otherwise every other car is either a lifted truck/jeep or some sort of toyota/honda/hyndai/etc.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Most kids I see now a days at my old high school are too broke to have a car. They are spending their $ into name brand clothing and random gadgets and since their being funded by their parents. During Hs I wasted alot of $ in that as well, now a days all my $ goes into my Cars. Sad thing is, after this Cam is painted, I plan to buy another rough shape third gen and fix her up as well. I had a Formula that I planned to do so but having 2 projects was not really for me. Sold the Formula sadly.

Anyways as for a small update, The louvers I scored a while ago were sold or are being sold this week when they get picked up. Sold em for $120. So I made a good profit. I plan to use that $ on a front gfx spoiler. The one I have has over 5 cracks and is gonna need some good fixing. I plan to work on it today but If all fails. Time for a better one. The bad thing is, yards here might not have any and I might have to pay some good $ for one.

murukalo

I know that gun. thats a harbor frieght 8.99 special, i have 2 of em and i've painted a couple of cars with em. you should get an adjustable regulator for the gun. nothing kills a painjob more then extra paint blowing out because of over pressure. another thing is to make sure to keep it clean. when you paint it i would lay down a tack coat first to help the paint adhere and then a couple even coats of base with some light wetsanding. then 3-6 layers of clear. wetsanding each inbetween the coats it should be smooth as glass if you take your time and wet sand it good. oh another bit of advice the darker the paint color the more imperfections it shows so if your going gun metal make sure you get that body nice and straight or itll look as crooked as a hillbillys smile

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

The gun can do all 3 decently? My neighbor said to use it for primer and well the gun is not that good maintained. I planned to clean it but never got around to.

Yea, The sad thing is everything is 100% straight besides the drivers side door, which I am really wanting to replace soon. I worked on it a bit but it just has too many deep dings that would not come out enough to make it easy.

murukalo

the gun for what it is works good. and if you live near arlington heights ? i think is where its at, you could buy a new one at harbor frieght