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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
How many circuits are needed? I've been really interested in the infinity box system in order to add canbus and really update everything (remote start, keyless, etc). Seems to really simplify the wiring itself too.
I am building on the Original Circuits, in that I am taking all of the High-Current Switching Circuits (Headlamp Switch, Neutral-Safety Switch, Ignition Switch, Etc.)...
and converting them to Low-Current Switching Circuits via New Circuits containing Relays.
This will prolong the life of the Switches, and help minimize the significant Voltage-Drops that occurred via the Original (High-Current) Wiring/ Circuits.
You will soon notice that my Images show Connectors that originally had 10AWG Wire...
Now having small 22AWG White Wire.
This is because I have converted them to be Low-Current Switching Circuits.
The Image Below is the Headlamp Dimmer Circuit (Low-Beam/ High-Beam Switch that commonly Overheats and fails)...
And is now carrying little to no load by incorporating Relays:
The Dimmer Switch will never fail from Overheating again!
for the instrument panel have you thought about having the option of using a connector that could allow simplifying the hook up of more modern cluster, ie dakota digital, etc... having the ability to have the wiring built with a common connector that then could be a customized other end to interface with other instrument options would be great. with the present OEM and no mating connector you have to decide how you want to cut it up so to speak
for the instrument panel have you thought about having the option of using a connector that could allow simplifying the hook up of more modern cluster, ie dakota digital, etc... having the ability to have the wiring built with a common connector that then could be a customized other end to interface with other instrument options would be great. with the present OEM and no mating connector you have to decide how you want to cut it up so to speak
I too would agree with this. My biggest challenge was integrating my autometer gages into the stock harness. I know it sounds simple, but the OEM harness is a real gem with all the gang junctions and such. Aftermarket gages also require independent circuits for lights, power and signal. Even if there was just an adapter to the stock cartridge style gage connection would allow easy adaptation of many options.
First things first, Thank you very much @ShiftyCapone !!!
The Harness arrived and it will map out perfectly.
There are many options that I could go with in regard to Instruments.
In a perfect world, I would offer a quick-disconnect (TE/ Deutsch DTM) Connector system...
It would accept a mini jumper-harness for the Stock Instruments, or a second mini jumper-harness for Aftermarket Instruments.
...Unfortunately nothing is remotely standardized in terms of different Products of Aftermarket Instrumentation.
So this is really not an easy task.
What I will do, is accept any and all excellent ideas and recommendations from all Forum Members on how to achieve something similar.
First things first, Thank you very much @ShiftyCapone !!!
The Harness arrived and it will map out perfectly.
There are many options that I could go with in regard to Instruments.
In a perfect world, I would offer a quick-disconnect (TE/ Deutsch DTM) Connector system...
It would accept a mini jumper-harness for the Stock Instruments, or a second mini jumper-harness for Aftermarket Instruments.
...Unfortunately nothing is remotely standardized in terms of different Products of Aftermarket Instrumentation.
So this is really not an easy task.
What I will do, is accept any and all excellent ideas and recommendations from all Forum Members on how to achieve something similar.
you are right the aftermarket isn't standardized, but if you had a mini jumper for stock as an option and then a mini harness as even just loose wire hang outs for the end user to customize it would be of great value. that way if you decide to revert back to OEM cluster you easily can, or if you want to customize and don't like how to do it the first time around you can buy another mini harness hangout and rework it as no big deal... this would be one of the biggest draws for me to buy the harness as i have a hard time bringing myself to cut up the original harness that makes then difficult to revert back
Wiring not included nor compatible:
-C207/ C221.
-C206/ C208.
-C238.
-Fog Lamp Sub-Harness (a Modern Upgraded Fog Lamp Sub-Harness with Relay is included).
-Power Hatch Release Sub-Harness (a Modern Upgraded Power Hatch Release Sub-Harness with Relay is included).
-Cruise Control.
-SIR (Air-Bag System).
-VATS.
-Day-Night/ Power Accessory Rear-View Mirror.
-Power Antenna.
-DRLs.
-ABS.
-Power Seats.
-Rear Wiper.
-Speedometer/ VSS.
-Electric Fuel Pump.
-Seat Belt Warning Ind.
-Remote Door Lock System/ Alarm System.
-Center Console Analog Clock.
-Overhead Console.
-Under Hood Light.
Wiring not included but is compatible and will interface with:
-Radio (Non-Bose).
-Speakers Sub-Harnesses.
-HVAC Sub-Harness.
-Power Locks with Sub-Harness.
-Power Windows with Sub-Harness.
-Tail Lights Sub-Harness.
-Fuel Tank Sub-Harness.
-Defroster Sub-Harness.
-Third Brake Lamp Sub-Harness.
-Cargo Lamp Sub-Harness.
-Power Hatch Pull-Down Sub-Harness.
ADD-ON Sub-Harnesses:
-Upgraded Power Windows using 2 Relays.
-Upgraded Power Windows using 4 Relays and "Express Down" Function.
-Upgraded Power Windows using 4 Relays, "Express Down" Function, and "Window Racer" Speed-Boost Feature.
-Upgraded Power Locks using 2-Modern Relays.
Possible Future Options:
-Upgraded Aftermarket Gauge/ Instrument Sub-Harness.
-Power Mirrors with Sub-Harness.
-Power Antenna with Sub-Harness.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 04-15-2023 at 05:14 PM.
There has been some good discussion on Circuit/ Wire Splicing recently...
So I though I would share a little about it from my current Harness Projects.
The massive time that it takes to design and generate the Schematics on a PC...
Plus the massive time I have been spending on actual assembly to these Harnesses...
Has delayed my updates here, so I apologize for that.
This update is about splicing...
However it is not what you are thinking.
This is about my preferred method of Circuit/ Wire Splicing via Bussing.
My Harness does have some traditional Butt and Stub Splicing...
But with the Buss method, empty locations in/ on the Buss can be used for adding more Circuits...
Or adding Options to the Harness, like Power Windows, Power Locks, ETC.
Just insert another Terminal/ Wire into the Buss...
Good to go!
The First Image is of TE/ Deutsch DT Series Busses.
This is just a Mock-Up of Two 12-Way Busses, and One 4-Way Buss.
Next to it is a GEP 96-Way Delphi Metri-Pack 280 Relay and ATM Fuse Panel (IPBEC).
Shown below:
I am really still uncertain where I want to have these Mounted...
The (IPBEC)could fit where the original Fuse Panel was...
The Busses could fit where the Driver's Convenience Center originally was.
I am not crazy about this...
There are More Busses/ another Panel of Busses that also needs to be in the Dash.
Maybe I should just install everything on the Passenger-Side...
Close to where the PCM originally was.
I would really like a ton of feedback on this Guys!
PLEASE!!!
Post your thoughts.
I will take all Post/ Everyone seriously.
The next images are just closer shots of the Busses and Connectors:
I use these DT Series Busses for Relay Triggers (like Ignition ON Triggers that many of will be needed)...
As well as other Lower Amperage Circuits (Maximum of 13A Continuous per Terminal).
Many people make the mistake that the Buss is good for 156A (13A times 12 Terminals).
WRONG!!!
Some Terminals need to be an "Input" to the Buss, and provide a maximum Amperage that the other Terminals need to share (to output).
If I use Two Terminals to provide Power... that is a maximum of 26A that the other Ten Terminals can share from...
If I use Six Terminals to provide Power... that is a maximum of 78A that the other Six Terminals can share from...
This is the stopping point. the Six Output Terminals are only good for a max of 13A Each...
Making a total Output of 78A as the Maximum... the same amount (78A) as the Input Terminals.
Many Companies and Brands either Copy one another, or will enter into sharing agreements...
Patent Expiration plays a big role here.
This is done to have compatible Components that will work together from the different Brands.
TE has purchased / bought-up nearly every Connector, Wiring, Tooling, Etc. Company that it could gets it's very wealthy hands on.
Amphenol is a Company that they were unable to purchase, and has a sharing agreement with.
The Image below is an Amphenol Buss that uses Deutsch DTP Components.
However this is a 6-Way Buss.
Deutsch offers no DTP Buss Products PERIOD...
Nor does Deutsch offer any DTP 6-Way Connector Products PERIOD (ONLY 2-Way and 4-Way Products).
The Amphenol 6-Way Buss is shown below, next to the Deutsch DT Buss Components:
On the Left Side of the Images are the Amphenol ATP Series (Just like the Deutsch DTP Series).
These are both a Connector Series with a 25A Per Terminal Max Continuous Rating.
Pay close attention to the Black Amphenol ATP Buss in the First Image of it above.
It has a thick metal Ear/ Bracket Mount.
It is the actual POWER INPUT Point.
Or a Ground Input Point.
What is great about this... is that the Buss is capable of the FULL 150 AMPs that the Six 25A Terminals are rated for.
I Attach/ Bolt a 2AWG Wire and Terminal to the Buss Ear.
I use SCL to Heat-Shrink and Seal the exposed Terminal and Ear... finish with a Removable-Boot.
Now you have an actual 150A Buss!
Hey Guys!
ALL MEMBERS!!!
I see the Viewer Count on the Thread going up...
But get very few of you guys actually Posting.
I really, really want feedback/ recommendations from any and all of you...
Towards the questions that I pose to you guys.
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE!
Post an opinion... I will consider no single Post to be stupid, or to be made fun of.
I promise!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 04-17-2023 at 02:18 AM.
You said that you wanted feedback on your dash harness.
First, I want to say that all of your work is of the highest quality; I aspire to reach your level of wiring prowess.
But I have to ask: Who is your intended customer base for this dash harness? Most Third Gen owners I know don't even know about the connections that you are discussing, and aren't able to afford the price you mentioned.
This is all coming from a guy who still hasn't finished his LS swap after five years, so take that as you may.
Thank you!
You are always far too kind.
Why does there have to be any NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION with "Not finishing an LS swap after five years"?
I see nothing wrong with this!
I am sure that you wish to create the Best Build that you possibly can with the means that you possess.
Can't spending more time on a Build yield Greater Results?
Of course it can!
I am a Jerk-Perfectionist... and take FOOOOOREVEEEEEEER to do anything, because I want everything to be Perfect!
So you don't have to explain to me that things take time!
Now back to your Questions (Sorry for the long rant)...
This Dash Wiring-Harness was originally going to be ONE part of a TWO Part System.
The INSIDE of the C100/ Dash.
And the OUTSIDE of the C100/ Engine Bay.
The System requires Aftermarket or Holley EFI... and requires a matching EFI Wiring Harness.
This was going to be a MOTOR-SPORTS GRADE $10,000+ System for Drag Racers.
I decided not to pursue that Wiring Harness Project, in favor of something closer to what someone with a "Resto-Mod" Third-Gen with Holley EFI could use.
I am offering all the Members here, Parts, Materials, Wiring, Etc. at cost for whatever Harnessing that I sell.
Right now Holley sells an LS2/ LS3 Style EFI Wiring Harness for $699.95.
It's not a horrible Harness, but it is also not a great quality Harness either.
The "Main-Portion" or "Core" of my Dash Harness is significantly more involved, much larger, far better designed, made of better materials, made via better practices and tooling.
Considering all of that...
I expect the Core Dash Harness (No Engine-Bay Side of the C100, no Sub-Harnesses, no expansion Harnesses, or Up-Grade Harnesses) to sell for about $499.99 or so.
Maybe slightly more money... I am really not sure.
But this is not for guys just doing a restoration...
It's for any of the following:
-Resto-Mods
-EFI Up-Grades
-Engine-Swaps
-Drag Racing Vehicles
-All the way up to Competition Drag Cars
ALSO!!!!
The System is designed so that adding anything to it is VERY EASY TO DO/ Modular!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 04-24-2023 at 12:15 AM.
I expect the Core Dash Harness (No Engine-Bay Side of the C100, no Sub-Harnesses, no expansion Harnesses, or Up-Grade Harnesses) to sell for about $499.99 or so.
Maybe slightly more money... I am really not sure.
Why the heck am I building my own harness?! That's a heck of a steal. I've spent thousands of dollars in supplies to do something that's fairly average.
If you were only my neighbor.... I'd keep you busy in retirement!
Can you say more about the power hatch harness please? Does this mean you supply a new subharness that plugs into the existing (gigantic) hatch motor or it enables some sort of newer (hopefully smaller) motor? Similar question for the fog lights, too.
Everything looks great. If there was one small request it would be for the rear view mirror lights and overhead lights, but I can also see why you'd not include those.
i've been following this thread because i find all of this interesting and very cool but i have to admit that a lot of it is over my head. for my LS swap i started with all of my OE wiring harnesses and then repurposed / removed all of the wiring that wasn't applicable to my build. this was my first attempt at doing major wiring on a project and while i "think" i did a good job, it is nowhere near the level of execution shown in this thread. i used weatherpacks for new connections because the deutsch crimper was super expensive.
i removed the dash from the car and did all the harness work on it. now that i reinstalled the dash, i am finding that some wires are too long or could be routed better so i'm having to redo some stuff. i really don't want to pull the dash again but making adjustments in the car now is pretty difficult. for me, wiring was the worst part of my whole build. it's hard to make wiring look good and it kind of scares me (i don't want my car to burn down). i absolutely see the value in having someone else figure all of this out - just purchase and install, DONE.
so long story short - i don't really have anything to add but appreciate your efforts updating the electrical systems for our cars.
Can you say more about the power hatch harness please? Does this mean you supply a new subharness that plugs into the existing (gigantic) hatch motor or it enables some sort of newer (hopefully smaller) motor? Similar question for the fog lights, too.
Everything looks great. If there was one small request it would be for the rear view mirror lights and overhead lights, but I can also see why you'd not include those.
No, I am not making changes to the Electrical Components in these Cars... Hatch-Motors, Lights, Etc.
I am just creating a new Wiring Harness System to jump us roughly 40-Years forwards in time.
Can you say more about the power hatch harness please? Does this mean you supply a new subharness that plugs into the existing (gigantic) hatch motor or it enables some sort of newer (hopefully smaller) motor? Similar question for the fog lights, too.
Everything looks great. If there was one small request it would be for the rear view mirror lights and overhead lights, but I can also see why you'd not include those.
To answer your question about the Hatch Release Wiring...
Through the different Model-Years; this Wiring went from being a Separate Sub-Harness to a dedicated/ attached portion of the Body Harness.
My New Harness has the Hatch Release Wiring attached to the Body Harness, and is upgraded to modern Wiring/ Circuit Designs with a Modern Relay that is both Commonly available and of the modern Standard layout (compared to the OEM Relay used).
i am interested in whatever stuff you come up with for my 88 gta semi-race project....
i will be installing a digital dash, all exterior lights, and most all of the factory interior stuff minus a/c.
at the moment the car is bigstuff3 efi, most likely will go to holley dominator later.
due to the foward strut support bars, i had to lose the factory bulkhead on the drivers side so will have to come up with some other type of pass through bulkhead. i would love to get rid of half of the wire nest behind the dash also.
Now we are getting into some of the flexibility of the Main-Harness Section.
Some of the Connectors have a Modern Pre-Connection ahead of the Device Connector.
This allows for a quick and easy Swap/ Swap-Out to a different Device/ Component.
The Image Below Shows a Harness end with a Modern No-Load/ Low-Range-Load Hazard-Flasher that Operates both LED or Filament Light-Bulbs:
There is a Pre-Connection inline with the typical GM Style Hazard Flasher Connector.
This allows the End-User to disconnect/ remove the Connector for the GM Style Hazard Flasher, and swap to a different Connector for a different Flasher Module.
Below are some Images of this "Pre-Connection" System:
I am currently Building this type of Connection System for the Gauges/ Instruments, IPC/ Instrument Panel Cluster:
I will have Connections for the Stock Gauges (of course), a Holley EFI Gauge Panel/ Digital Screen, and something to add Autometer Gauges/ Instruments.
Hey guys, I have made a couple parts orders of connector terminals from vorteciroc and he is literally giving us parts at cost. His prices are waaaaaay better than Mouser! He has made these offers publicly before but I didn't really get it until I ordered some parts and saw the discount....
This Dash Harness is Plug and Play... Meaning you can use the Original Fire-Wall Opening to use this Harness System.
My Dash Harness Converts the Ignition-Switch and Head-Lamp Switch from Load-Carrying (High Amperage) that run HOT and Fail with ONLY Limited poor Quality Replacement Parts Available...
To Low-Amperage Switches that Trigger Relays (like Modern Vehicles) Hopefully your Ignition-Switch and Head-Lamp Switch will now both last a long time (Not having to work so Hard and Run HOT!
Even the Rear DeFroster Switch and Fog-Lamp Switch are now Low Amperage Switches using Relays!
Again, you can use the Original Fire-Wall Opening to use this Harness System (Connector shown below):
The OEM C100 Connector can be used (On the RIGHT-Side, in the Image above)
Or if you do not want to use an UnSealed Bulk-Head Connector...
(On the LEFT-Side of the Image Above) You can use a 38-Way Sealed (Slightly Larger size) Delphi Bulk-Head Connector instead.
Lights, Horn, Wiper, Etc... Pass through this location.
I also have Sub-Harnesses that will work through the C100 or Sealed Bulk-Head):
-High Amperage Fuel Pumps (up to 60A Each... 1 or 2 Pumps).
-High Amperage Cooling Fans (up to 60A Each... 1 or 2 Fans).
-Ignition Coils/ High Amperage Ignition Coils (up to 8 Ignition Coils).
-Fluid Pumps for Inter-Coolers or Fluid/ Oil Coolers, or Electric Water-Pump for Engine.
-Many More options!!! NOT all of these Sub-Harnesses can pass through this Bulk-Head at the same time (or some can go through the Passenger-Side Fender Pass-Through, or One of my Sealed Bulk-Heads).
EFI/ Engine Management will go through the passenger side fender Opening,
A sealed Connector can go in the Passenger Compartment (where the OEM MESS of a Pass-Through was originally).
Or (What I highly recommend) you can just make a new Fire-Wall Pass through-Hole for sealed a Delphi Connector again.
This would be a Higher 72-Way Terminal Count with Mainly the smallest Metri-Pack Terminal in the Series:
Then you just need Power and Ground from a Front or Rear Battery.
Front Positioned Batteries will use Fire Wall Pass-Through Power Posts:
The Positive Cable gets a MINI Mega-Fuse with a Sealed enclosure.
Shown on the Right Side of the Image:
MEGA-FUSE compared to MINI MEGA-FUSE in Image Below:
Then the Original Fuse Panel, Driver's Convince Center, and C238 Power Buss-Bar System all get replaced with one single small Sealed Relay and Fuse Panel (IPBEC):
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-10-2023 at 10:00 PM.
The grey Connectors on the Right Side of the Image are BUSS-BAR Connectors for adding on Accessories or some of my Pre-Made Sub-Harnesses.
You would just "Jack-In" to the Grey BUSS-BAR Connectors with a Tool-less Push-In Terminal (can NOT be easier, NO Cutting to Splice into needed Power and Ground Circuits).
Some Modular Sub-Harnesses available would be:
-Second Electric Fuel Pump (up to 60A with a Sealed Bulk-Head at the Fuel Tank.
-Dual Electric Cooling Fans (High Amperage up to 60A per Fan)
-Power Windows that use Relays or 16 Volt Modules to increase Speed of Window Movement.
-HID Head Lamps, Fog Lamps, or Reverse Lamps.
NO SPLICING!!!
All Plug and Play with My Sub Harnesses.
The Base Harness supports one Fuel Pump up to 40A using a FREE Mod to the C313 Fuel Tank Bulk-Head/ Pass-Through:
This is done by using the Original Ground wire as a 2nd Power Feed Wire through the C313 Connector.
Finally take the Ground Wires from the Fuel Pumps and Ground them to an Excellent/ Clean and Large Ground Stud under the Vehicle...
Instead of passing a Ground Circuit through the C313 Connector.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-09-2023 at 05:51 PM.
NO Cutting and Re-Splicing of my Dash Harness/ Main Harness (WHITE WIRES).
NO Cutting and Re-Splicing means you do not need to worry about the all White wires.
The ONLY Connections that will be made, are to some Sections of your own Harness (Like the Tail-Light Harness).
BREAK-OUT Connectors are included with the Dash Harness (Color Matched Wires) to Splice into your Vehicle Harnesses (Outside of Dash Wiring).
The Break-Out Connectors have Color Coded Wires... Like the C208/ C206 Connector that goes to the Rear of the Car.
This would be for the Tail Lights and Hatch-Motor and Release/ Close, Fuel Tank, and Rear Defroster.
Early Cars had different Harness Branches to the Rear of the Passenger Compartment.
In addition a second Branch to the Fuel-Tank/ C313 Bulk-Head Connector and a Power Wire for the Rear Glass Defroster Grid.
-Early Model-Year Cars had either a 15-Way or 8-Way C208 Connector at the A-Pillar.
-Mid Model-Year Cars had a 8-Way Connector at the B-Pillar, PLUS a second Branch to the Fuel-Tank/ C313 Bulk-Head Connector and a Power Wire for the Rear Glass Defroster Grid.
-Late Model-Year Cars had no Connector at all... Just 7 Wires going to the Rear of the car, PLUS a second Branch to the Fuel-Tank/ C313 Bulk-Head Connector and a Power Wire for the Rear Glass Defroster Grid.
I install a Sealed TE/ Deutsch 12-Way Connector, with a Break-Out Connector, for you to Color Match Butt-Connect to your existing Wiring (regardless of which Model-Year Car you have):
This takes care of the Tail Lights, Hatch Release and Pull-Down, Fuel-Level Gauge, and Accessory Fuse Power for a rear Cargo Light.
Then in addition, there is a 3-Way Connector that supports 60A Per Terminal.
The 3 Terminal Positions are:
Fuel Pump #1 up to 60A Max.
(BUT ONLY One Pump up to 40A Max if you did the "FREE C313 Connection Upgrade".
If you Upgrade to a replacement Bulk-Head that I offer, you can use the full 60A Max Circuit Capacity.
Then there is a 2nd Terminal for Fuel Pump #2
Now you have up to 2-Pumps, at 60A Max per Pump... 120A Total if using 2 Pumps.
The 3rd Connection of the Connector has the Rear Defroster Wire Installed in it (an UPGRADE over the 30A Max Connection originally used):
Next, the Image below shows the UPGRADE/ Late Model-Year Connector used so that all Cars will use Late Model Wiper Switch Connector (1990 and Earlier, the Connector is discontinued):
Next, the Image below shows the UPGRADE for the C238 Buss-Bar used in Early Model-Year Cars... Late Model-Year cars just had a 3-wire 42A Max/Terminal Unsealed Break-Out Connector.
I have Upgraded to a Sealed 55A/ Terminal Break-Out Connector instead:
The 10AWG (upgraded from 12AWG) Pink Wire is Powered by the Power-Window Circuit Breaker (upgraded to Modern Design ATM Size Part).
Break-Out to your 2 Power-Window Power Wires if you have them.
-One 12AWG Solid Pink Wire.
-One 12 AWG Pink Wire with White Tracer.
The 10AWG (upgraded from 12AWG) Orange Wire (and 14AWG Orange Wire {UPGRADED Wire size} is Powered by the Power-Accessory Circuit Breaker (upgraded to Modern Design ATM Size Part).
-Break-Out for Power Locks if you have them.
The Other Circuits that are Powered here are already Wired in on another Branch of the Harness for you.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-19-2023 at 12:54 AM.
Below is the Cigar Lighter Circuit that I have installed on a Quick-Disconnect Connector...
So you can swap to a USB Charger or regular Power-Outlet... I have both available set up with the same Quick Disconnect Connector. Or what I PERSONALLY use in my own car: a Shift-Light:
The Images Below show an Auto-Meter BLUE Shift-Light that has replaced the Cigar-Lighter in the OEM Location:
6 Grey BUSS-BAR Connectors are for expansion/ or to add my Modular Sub-Harnesses.
Jack Into:
-12v+ for Relay Triggers or Sensors.
-Chassis Ground.
-Switch Ignition Power for Relay Triggers.
-Gauge Power for for Relay Triggers or Sensors.
-Gauge Illumination Power for for Relay Triggers or Sensors.
The Last Grey BUSS-BAR the Black BUSS-BAR is for the Power Accessory Circuit Breaker and Power Accessory Fuse:
12 Volt Battery Power and Battery-Ground Break-Outs:
150A Total for each Connector (12 Volt Battery Power and Battery-Ground)
(MORE available if needed/ or Higher Amperage too)
My PLUG AND PLAY Modular Sub-Harnesses.
(HID Lights Shown Below):
Plugs into Origninal/ OEM Low-Beam Connector...
Remove the Sealed-Beam Low-Beam Bulb, as the Harness has a Mating-Connector with the same Terminals as the OEM Bulb.
Connect the Low-Beam Connectors in the Car to These PLUG and PLAY Harnesses, and you are provided Modern Sealed Connectors for HID 9006 Bulbs through a Sealed Fuse and Relay Center.
This Version shown also provides new High-Beam Connectors.
These are now Fused and Powered by Relays like the Low-Beam HIDs at NO additional cost.
HID High-Beams are also an Option, as well as HID Fog-Lamps, and HID Reverse-Lamps.
Other Sub-Harnesses are:
-HID Fog Lamps:
-Dual Electric Fans (up to 60A Max each).
-Liquid Coolers with Electric Fans or Fluid Pumps for Liquid/ Refrigerant Inter-Cooling).
-Dual Electric Fuel Pumps (up to 60A Max per Fan).
-Exhaust Cut-Outs.
-Nitrous Systems.
-Holley EFI ADD-ONs.
Or most any other Accessory you could want.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-10-2023 at 10:23 PM.
Most of you probably do not want nor need a Motorsports ("Mil-Spec+") set of Connections for your 4L80E...
But here are what they would look like if you did.
NSS, Main Connector, and Speed Sensor Examples shown below:
Last edited by vorteciroc; 07-01-2023 at 07:24 PM.
Man, this is SEXY! I love wiring jobs but I'm not good at building harnesses and stuff like this. I only wish you could make a complete dash (Firewall and back) that incorporates all of the OEM stuff like radio, A/C controls, column switches, NSS etc. Beautiful work, sir!
Man, this is SEXY! I love wiring jobs but I'm not good at building harnesses and stuff like this. I only wish you could make a complete dash (Firewall and back) that incorporates all of the OEM stuff like radio, A/C controls, column switches, NSS etc. Beautiful work, sir!
This Thread is me Literally Building a new Dash Harness but with the Circuits all converted to Relays in a Modern Sealed Fuse and Relay Panel.
High Quality Materials, and Modern Circuit Design recreating the Interior/ Dash Harness for Engine Swapped Vehicles.
I also add in Modularity and Expandability into my Harnesses so that the End user can change or Add anything to the Existing Harness.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 07-11-2023 at 11:05 PM.
I'm just seeing this and I know of your health woes so no rush for reply. My car is an 1988 Iroc with a manual (T5) trans.
I am not taking any orders at this time, I am sorry to say.
I believe I have permanent loss of use of my Left Hand, and I am struggling to complete the Orders that I already agreed to.
I am actually trying to hire someone to help me just finish the Orders that I have.
I am very sorry to have to say no, it is the last thing that I ever expected to have to say.
I have been filling these Orders as basically "Free Work" and now I will have to pay out of pocket to complete them.
Duuuuude. I am away for some time and all this happens!
First off, you're RaceWire? I see your ads come on my Facebook feed occasionally.
You can get the female side of the C100? I have been looking for that for a while. I would like to retrofit that into some of my other projects, older cars
I didn't realize your so close, I think you told me once and I forgot. I 100% need to take a ride up and see you. I have Firebird dashes I can bring for you to model stuff off of. Also I think I can work with a local guy that buys/sells/parts cars out for connectors
04-01-2023, 05:42 PM
Why the heck am I building my own harness?! That's a heck of a steal. I've spent thousands of dollars in supplies to do something that's fairly average.
