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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Tomorrow I'm finally going to install my LQ9 into my '84. I'm running hooker LT's and UMI K member and motor mounts. Any tips on installing the engine into the car from the top? I dropped the crossmember for taking it out but I already have all of my suspension installed so I was going to put the engine in first with the headers, clutch, and bellhousing installed. While I wait to put the transmission in later, will I need to support the rear of the engine at all to prevent it to want to tip into the firewall? Also where do you guys recommend positioning the motor front to back? The motor mounts are adjustable and I'm running a T56 Magnum.
it will be really easy if you put the clutch and bell housing on after the engine is in as you have plenty of room, that is how i do it but i also have a lift so it isn't a big deal doing it underneath the car. also i use an overhead gantry crane to drop it the engine pretty much straight in
i use the UMI k member in my swaps for both SBC and LS motors. I have found that i like to have the engine moved towards the front a little more as it gives great access to the back and easy to get to all those bell housing bolts and any servicing of sensors in the rear, etc along with plenty of room for the wire harness, etc
make sure to have your LT ready to put in before the engine is fully seated on the mounts, this will make it much easier especially on the passenger side
have the mounts on the k member remain somewhat loose until you put your transmission in. that way you can move everything slightly to have it final positioned as you want it and then tighten everything up together
also remember that without the trans holding it up the engine will lean back to the firewall. have a piece of board to put between the engine and firewall
I wouldn't try it with the headers installed.
Bellhousing and clutch are a good idea.
Start from the side of the car, get the engine halfway in, and pivot around to the front.
Not to Hijack....but is going in from top generally frowned upon? ...and if so, is it a huge pain, or just maybe not as easy as an SBC? My LS with 4th gen pan is going in my stock K member 88 soon. Was planning to go in from up top.
Not to Hijack....but is going in from top generally frowned upon? ...and if so, is it a huge pain, or just maybe not as easy as an SBC? My LS with 4th gen pan is going in my stock K member 88 soon. Was planning to go in from up top.
Took us about an hour and a half at most. Didn’t want to go from the bottom since I had all the suspension hooked up. Would be pretty easy if you got dollys to move around everything.
Not to Hijack....but is going in from top generally frowned upon? ...and if so, is it a huge pain, or just maybe not as easy as an SBC? My LS with 4th gen pan is going in my stock K member 88 soon. Was planning to go in from up top.
Personal preference really, no right or wrong there
If you have fancy tools as load leveler and 20-ton (the big sturdy style) crane, Remove the hood and go in from the top, with the transmission attached already.
This will save you alot of time fooling around under the car trying to line up the input shaft and potentially bending or breaking something in an expensive transmission.
Not to Hijack....but is going in from top generally frowned upon? ...and if so, is it a huge pain, or just maybe not as easy as an SBC? My LS with 4th gen pan is going in my stock K member 88 soon. Was planning to go in from up top.
I've always put in (and taken out) mine from the top with the transmission attached. Biggest things to watch for when you do it (that I've dealt with):
the evap box is very fragile and just a little bump from the motor can put a hole in it
Scratch, scrapes, gouges on the radiator cross-support or bumper
Tip the tranny, get a lot of fluid out. Buy a plug for this, they're cheap and it keeps all the fluid in the tranny
Took us about an hour and a half at most. Didn’t want to go from the bottom since I had all the suspension hooked up. Would be pretty easy if you got dollys to move around everything.
I've done "in from the top" 5 times (twice with an LS). Last time was in from the bottom. I'll never do in from the top again.
I've done "in from the top" 5 times (twice with an LS). Last time was in from the bottom. I'll never do in from the top again.
My LS has gone in multiple times from the top; my old 305 was taken out from top. What makes bottom easier? ...I hope mine never has to come out ever again!!
Bottom is the only way to go. The car becomes incredibly light without the engine and you can use a basic engine hoist to lift and maneuver the front end while you slide the drivetrain in or out on a dolly. I feel like you have much great control so you aren't scratching and spilling junk all over. This is especially true if you have a painted engine bay. Also, less things to snag on to.
Bottom is the only way to go. The car becomes incredibly light without the engine and you can use a basic engine hoist to lift and maneuver the front end while you slide the drivetrain in or out on a dolly. I feel like you have much great control so you aren't scratching and spilling junk all over. This is especially true if you have a painted engine bay. Also, less things to snag on to.
Yes, you wouldn't want to scratch that nice red engine bay of yours! Anyway, to get back on topic. some install tips from above are-
Fit the headers in right before you put in engine mounts as they seem to catch on the rear lower a arm mounts if mounted up before
notch your crossmember if stock
if installing engine and trans at the same time, put the cherry picker right in the middle of the engine, so they whole engine trans combo leans back at about a 45* angle
take the hood off - its only a few bolts and it will save you time and hassle
I went in from the top. During my install I did the Hokey Pokey. "Put the engine in. Take the engine out. Put the engine in. Run wires all about." It really wasn't bad at all, and frankly I think it was just the same level of difficulty as a 350. I always take the hood off. I just didn't want to mess with disconnecting the brake lines, steering, and suspension. I can see why people might like installing an engine from the bottom, I just went with what I knew.
Top or bottom it doesn't matter, choose your poison. You can put the whole thing in fully assembled from the bottom, but then you have to go through the work of assembling the whole suspension, steering, brake lines. Or you can go in through the top, but then you spend a lot of time hunched over the fender putting on bits and bobbles.
I don't even have a choice and must go in from the bottom. My combination of parts won't fit through the top.
Did mine from the top w/ trans, back of car higher than front by about 1'. Rolled eng/trans into position, x-member laid across hoists two lower legs, dropped eng low enough to reach x-member, bolted up motor mounts halves. Raised eng just enough to bolt on x-member. Then attached trans x-member and bolted it to subframe. ALL nuts/bolts installed w/ 2-3 threads engaged. Once everything looked lined up properly i snugged bolts/nuts up.
With the back of the vehicle higher i didn't need to tilt eng as much. I did this by myself and would say it took me a good hour, to that point. First time i did it from underneath, but i didn't feel comfortable lifting the car so high. I thought the hoist was gonna tip over. Even with four 45lb plates to counter balance it.
04-17-2021, 09:40 PM
