Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Hello,

Since I am definitely getting the 5.7 now, I trying to price out everything I need for the swap.

I am wondering if anyone can help me shave some costs.

I don't necessarily need everything new, however I'd like to have some peace of mind about reliability.

Anyhow, let me know if I missed anything, or if there is anything I can save some green on...

Thanks!

ESSENTIALS FOR SWAP

Chassis/Suspension

82-92 Camaro / Firebird Tubular K-member for LSX Engines, using Factory Springs, UMI Performance $704

Motor Mount, GM "LSX" Motor Mount Bushing - Complete with Clamshell- PAIR $188

84-92 Camaro/Firebird Hawks T56 6 Spd Conversion Transmission Crossmember $180.85

Fuel

1988 CHEVROLET CAMARO Walbro Electric In-Tank Fuel Pumps GCA758-2 $124.99

Camaro/Firebird 82-92 LS1 LSX Swap Fuel Line Kit, Black Midnight Series $399.95

Engine

Throttle Cable, Camaro/Firebird 82-92 LS1 Conversion Throttle Cable Kit $59.95

A/C LINE KIT, 82-92 CAMARO/FIREBIRD LS1 CONVERSION A/C LINE KIT $164.45

NEED COMPRESSOR AND BRACKETS

Transmission

98-02 CAMARO/FIREBIRD LS1 ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER KIT $324.99 (Could find one used)

98-02 CAMARO/FIREBIRD LS1 T56 SLAVE CYLINDER & THROWOUT BEARING NEW GM $168.00

Electrical

LS1 Conversion Plug and Play Wiring Harness $699

TOTAL FOR SWAP NOT COUNTING ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION

$3,015.18

no new tires

For starters, you dont need a tubular K member.

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that this gave you easier access to the engine bay, and allowed you to use the AC compressor without cutting into the original K member.

Id like this to be as "plug and play" as possible...

Is there a cheaper alternative?

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

You dont need a tubular kmember. The factory one works fine but that is up to you. You have the option to notch the factory one for the AC or you can mount it up high using the correct bracket and an 88-92 compressor.
If you use the factory kmember all you need are setback plates $30. The hawks crossmember is only 129? You have the option to re use your factory fuel lines which can keep costs down.

NCFarmLife

iTrader: (1)

Do you already have your donor engine/trans? Depending on which way you go on that, you can keep the drive-by-wire and not need a cable throttle setup. Cable is more complicated than DBW, IMO - but some people really like the feel. (you can get rid of the "lag" that everyone dislikes so much in software)

Speaking of which, I don't see anything for tuning in here - you'll need it.

BigDogBob

Set a couple grand aside for upgrading worn out stuff like shocks, bushings, etc

aggie3rdgen

iTrader: (1)

I re-used my factory hard line and swaged AN fittings to it to connect the filter on one side and the fuel rail on the other. I'm running the corvette fuel filter/regulator. I also bought a pressure gauge that mounts to the relief valve on the fuel rail so I can always see the fuel pressure. I think everything included was about $150, much cheaper than your $399 kit from Hawks. Be sure to clean and blow-out the lines really well before final installation.

I also notched my K-member with the hawks notch plate. It helps to have a friend with a fab shop that accepts pizza/beer as adequate payment. I also notched the back side for extra oil pan clearance as well. The stock k-member with the high mount AC is an option also, but I didn't like how much it cluttered the engine compartment and now I have a catch can where that would have been anyways.
I don't have the personal experience, but when I was trying to decide to notch the factory k-member or buy tubular, I was leaning toward the PA racing one. Do your homework here because some of the k-members require their A-arms too, which will drive up price for you.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-k-member.html

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Take your estimate total and add 200% to it. That's what it will end up being, if not more. There are a billion little things that are almost impossible to mention in here (nuts and bolts, gaskets, hoses, wiring). No two swaps are the same and the little details are where costs escalate. It is easier to estimate the cost of the engine more than it is the swap. What I didn't see on your list was suspension, chassis and brake upgrades. Those are a must. The stock stuff is mediocre at best. Doubling the power only makes these weak areas worse. As mentioned above, replace all bushings, shocks and anything else that is broken. Add subframe connectors and upgrade any worn steering components. In my opinion it is an absolute must to upgrade the front brakes. All factory brakes for these cars suck. A front LS1 kit should be the minimum, your life depends on it.

You'll need to also figure out what kind of power you will be running. Stock LS1? What are your exhaust plans?

I'd take some time to start reading up on various build threads. Look at the cheap swaps and look at the expensive swaps. Where you find common ground is where you will need to focus on. But the journey is the fun part. Reading is free and all of your question can be answered here.

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

I am upgrading the Rear End with a Torsen Carrier this summer, I have a new panhard bar and lower control arms installed, and I have SubFrame Connectors ready to be welded in.

So far all I will have is the engine which is a 5.7 LS1 out of a 99 Camaro with 55k. Still on the lookout for a T56
My Car has about 50k original miles, so it's still pretty tight as far as steering goes. I do have new shocks on it, but need new springs.

The engine is coming with the LS1 Long Tube "Budget" Headers, and I will likely be getting the Y pipe as well, probably no CAT and then probably Borla. Also the engine is coming with the ECU.

But again, I just want the ESSENTIAL costs of getting the swap done, I know everything will be replaced eventually.

As far as Drive By Wire, I have no idea about that, but I would be interested to hear more pros and cons about that vs cable.
My dad recently bought a C5 Vette from 97, was that DBW? Cause I didn't really notice any hesitation.

As far as Brakes go I am replacing them with the LS1 brakes before Summer is out, would anyone have a good suggestion on a kit or package?

So again, just the essentials for the swap to get it started essentially. One thing at a time.

I am a complete noob and this is my first swap.

Also, if there is an adapter bracket to use the stock AC compressor from my 88, I'd be interested in that as well.

Thanks for all the help guys, trying to stay on top of the project instead of falling under it.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Check out Big Brake Upgrade.com for brakes. Scott makes excellent kits.

You have the essentials down, and your list covers the heavy hitters. We won't be able to predict every cost because we don't know what you have to work with. Tools, hoist, welder, etc? Those are all the hidden costs. Are those budget headers 3rd gen specific? If not they likely won't work. If it does have long tubes it likely doesn't have a traditional y-pipe. It was probably for a 4th gen which wont be a direct drop in for your car. Expect fab work there. Holley makes a bracket to reuse the stock AC compressor. Both Holley, and LSX Concepts sell all kinds of front accessory kits. If the engine comes with the 4th gen accessories I would just run those.

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

The car has all accessories except the AC compressor, do the third gens use the R4 compressor?

The headers are meant for a 3rd gen swap, stainless which I believe are these: https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...w-3-collector/

I can stick with the stock K member for now if I need to save some cash... Otherwise I think I'm in good shape.

Does anyone have experience with these headers?

Which motor mounts should I get?

Also, what are my options for a Tranny?

If I got a T56 from an LT1 car, what would I need to convert it? What about a viper T56? Or a vette?

What are my options?

toomany

An LT1 transmission would need an LS bellhousing, front plate and input shaft. By the time you add up those costs, it comes out to about the same as buying an LS T56. Expect to pay anywhere from $1200-$2000 for a good LS T56. I haven't looked into it, but there are options to run older non LS manuals behind an LS (ie, T5, SM465, Nv3500/4500). Don't know if it's possible to go down one of those routes. I suppose if it were, it would be more common and we'd see more build threads with it.

For my swap, I bought a running/driving 2000 SS. Body is a little rough but the interior is perfect and it runs flawlessly. That gives me the motor/trans/wiring/rear end/front brakes/tank/seats/misc. More up front cost, but I know exactly how it ran before the swap. Plus I should be able to recoup some costs with parting out the body.

Annihilate

iTrader: (1)

Perfect, there is a T56 locally with everything except the front plate for 2200, built to be behind a 454 apparently.

I think I better jump on it.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

There were a few things on my car that got surprisingly expensive. If you know of these pitfalls ahead of time then you'll do okay. I'm sure other people have their own pitfalls to share too.

1. Wiring. It was shocking how much money I had in my wiring harness. Avoid customizing the harness if you're on a budget. Making yourself a harness can easily take $1000 - $1500. Just new wire loom alone is many hundreds of dollars.

2. Custom battery cables. I still don't want to talk about it. It hurt. The cable crimper alone was $250.

3. Making your own fuel system. Turns out that is stupid expensive. Adapt OE hardware as much as you can.

4. T56 transmission. I bought a used T56 (not cheap as you know) and took it to RPM Transmissions for a $2400 rebuild with all the goodies. And it was still just a T56. Never ever again. T56 Magnum is a better deal than that.

5. Exhaust. That hurt too. I can't fabricate so I had to pay and just move on.

It might help if you split out your list into necessities vs. optionals. A tubular K-member is not a necessity. You just have to decide for yourself if it's worth it. Another example: A wiring harness is a necessity that can be satisfied by using the original harness that comes with the engine; whereas a new custom harness is optional.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

There's a lot of little things missing from your list that will add up. For example, radiator hoses and bottles of coolant will be a couple hundred dollars. An air filter and intake tube is another several hundred dollars. The list of bits and bobbles goes on and it just keeps adding up.

WTR388

Check my suggestions. That is a lot of money saved!
However, my biggest suggestion is this: Buy a wrecked LS1 T56 4th gen. Yes, at first it seems expensive up front, but you get almost everything you need and you know it runs and drives. Heck, at that point you just need to hook up a few wires and your wiring is done pretty much. And there is so much compatible between the 2 cars. 4th gen tank slides right up there, has your fuel pump, regulator etc.
Dash swaps are common. The seats bolt right in. Some guys run the center console and even the door cards. The entire rear suspension bolts right in, heck, you even get a rear end with disc brakes and a differential that actually locks up... And all you need are front caliper adapter plates, machined down hubs and bam, LS1 front brakes cheap.
Sell off the rest of the 4th gen, even if it goes to the crusher, that's still a couple hundred bucks from the recyclers.

I had a buddy that wanted to LS swap his E30. I gave him this same advice, to buy a 4th gen LS1. He got what he needed from the car and sold off so many parts he had like 2 Grand in the engine and trans, I built the harness for him for free.