slowfast

Years ago someone here advised me on fuel system parts for my LS Swap and I was looking for either the guide/sticky to look at or some help and guidance on what parts/tools I'll need to finish the fuel system. TGO's LS Swap guides haven't helped me and I'm close to buying the Aeromotive Stealth II system for peace of mind if I can't figure this out in the next two weeks or so. My car was originally a Carbed LG4( It may or may not have an in-tank pump since a shop swapped out that motor).

I have the following parts;
EFI Thirdgen Fuel Sending unit
WIX Filter/Regulator 33737
Russell 610020 Hose end Full Flow, Straight,-6 (5 of them)
Russell 640860
Russell 640830
Russell 640850 (2 of them)
Russell 640940 EFI Adapter, Quick-Disconnect -6
(I might have a Walbro 255 which I'd have to change out eventually)

I've been reading/watching YouTube and I'm not sure where to go with this setup. It seems like people do one of two things, flare the ends of the fuel sending unit and connect the sending lines with the stock line using AN fittings or they use braided hose up to the motor. My car will likely be cam only for a while but eventually should see about 12-14 pounds of boost and about 600RWHP. I'm trying to do this once, which would be best for my future plans and what is the safest and correct way of doing this?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

For street use it's best to use hard line under the car. Race cars use hose because it flexes and helps prevent spills in an accident when the car gets all twisted and crushed up. But the hose usually isn't worthy for long term use on the road and exposure to the elements. And the hard lines will clip into the stock tie-down points on the frame, which is handy.

dixiebandit69

I'll second what QwkTrip said: Use the factory steel lines as much as possible.

They're already in place, they don't cost anything, they are tucked in nice and close to the body, and best of all (to me, anyway): they LOOK factory. I've never liked the way that braided hoses and AN fittings look (flame suit on).

There is a cheap, easy way to adapt the third-gen fuel lines to an LS engine and filter that doesn't look like a ghetto nightmare: use Dorman (TM) brass fittings, nylon tubing, and some push-lock fittings.
That's what I'm doing, and it's the same stuff that the factory uses.

I can't take credit for this; there is another member on here who detailed all of the part numbers, and I copied his design.
Unfortunately, I don't have the parts in front of me, and I don't have time to find his build thread right now.

If no other members can find it for you, I will try to see if I can find the part numbers in my records, but I threw away all of the packaging long ago that had the part numbers on it.

soloc4

Something that you need to consider about the future plans for boosting your motor is a bypass regulator that can be boost referenced which would make a full return system necessary. The Corvette filter/regulator and a 255 pump on a deadhead system will not support 600 rwhp.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

What he said.

My Racetronix 255 held pressure to about 500 RWHP n/a and was running lean above that. (Granted, I kind of had a hokey hot wire setup going through an underhood fuse box.) AFR looked fine when pressure dropped, but the spark plugs were showing lean. A boosted engine needs even more fuel pump to overcome the pressure rise at the nozzle, not to mention they run a richer AFR.

Personally, I think it's urban legend that the Corvette filter moves more fuel than F-body. I've talked to an engineer at Lingenfelter and their testing shows both move about 270 L/hr before causing too much pressure drop. No difference between the two.

slowfast

That would be helpful, I could also just use a brake flare tool and some AN fittings. It sounds like I'm going to start with the stock lines, 255 pump, c5 regulator and have to do my fuel system over when I go over 8ish pounds of boost. Thanks for the help, I'll try to do a write up and video on what I end up doing.

86iroc504

I am using -6 an braided lines & fittings for the fuel lines in my swap. I have some rust on mine and wanted to be safe and problem free.. so I went the an route .. I flared one 3/8 line to a -6an male fitting
and put a compression fitting to -6an male on the 5/16 return side

If your metal fuel lines are problem free , I would use them

Swapper

i would suggest this style disconnects over the ones with the plastic clips.

this style



over this style.

irishhockey34

iTrader: (12)

for what its worth, i had a local hydraulic hose shop make all my lines up. i ran all No. 6 PTFE braided lines. the hose ends were crimped on at the hydraulic shop with their specialty tooling. pretty expensive but should outlast the car. for a template, i ran romex wire and bent the 90 degree connections accordingly to make sure the shop had the length and the clocking of the ends correct for my setup.

also stay away from the quick connect AN adapters like Swapper said. many reports of problems with them.

see post #6
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-rs-6-0-a.html