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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Car back on transportation dolly. Hood, fenders, rear hatch, doors, and glass to be reinstalled this week. Maybe ready by the weekend. Pics really don’t show how good this paint job is.
Car back on transportation dolly. Hood, fenders, rear hatch, doors, and glass to be reinstalled this week. Maybe ready by the weekend. Pics really don’t show how good this paint job is.
you can tell this is going to be a fine work of art,all the right stuff is being done and will go into it.i can see the excellence in what has been done so far
I would absolutely suggest a 4th gen plastic tank,just a thought
I would actually recommend the new tank from Aeromotive. For the 4th gen tank to work, you either have to find one with the original pump bucket in it still (this is the only bucket design that can be converted to the thirdgen gauge sender) or you have to use aftermarket gauges that will work with the 4th gen sender.
im one of those poor saps that can't just buy the latest and greatest of everything,EVER.
ive always had to find a way to be economically frugal for every single solitary purchase.
so unless the new aeromotive tank is under $100 i wouldn't be buying it.
that's probably why i like realistic "budget builds" as i can totally relate.
im building an engine and so far the only new parts are the gaskets.
by the end the only new parts will be the gaskets,the bearings and
the very bare necessities.
I don't think junkyarding a 20 year old plastic fuel tank is appropriate for this car.
Nice thing about the 4th gen tank is that it carries the charcoal canister. You can vent the tank through the canister and it won't smell up the garage. Otherwise there's no advantage because all the guts of the stock fuel system has to be thrown away at his power level.
Only reason I am limping along my 4th gen fuel system is because I already had it in the car. Otherwise I would be looking very hard at the Aeromotive tank.
Some of you may have heard of the explosion of a business in Houston. The shop that painted my car was across the street and was destroyed. https://abc13.com/5877954/
Whoa! That is really tough. I've been following your thread and I thought they did an amazing job on your car! I really hope the owner has enough insurance to get him back on his feet - hate to see a great small business gone from something that wasn't even their fault.
Fuel tank in. Aeromotive Stealth with 340lph pump. Made my own harness and instead of OEM bulkhead, using a Seals-it grommet. Used braided lines in -6an and using adapters to go to OEM style new stainless fuel lines. Both 3/8” for feed and return. Rubber hose for fuel tank relief valve. Will finish all connections tomorrow and final mounting clamps on hard lines.
Looks great. I ordered mine 4 months ago. After many calls and cancelled orders, summit is finally shipping me one. What did you do for the vent? Did it come with a new one?
Looks great. I ordered mine 4 months ago. After many calls and cancelled orders, summit is finally shipping me one. What did you do for the vent? Did it come with a new one?
I’m using my original vent valve. Took it apart and cleaned it. I ran a hose from barb on tank to it. Pic of top of tank where hose goes for vent. Not running vapor line or canister as I have no emissions testing where I live.
Have a question. I have my car on a 2-post lift with the arms extended to the ends of the frame on all 4 points. Car is very stable. All doors, hood, rear deck and front/ rear windshields are on car. Only thing I’ve installed is the fuel tank and lines. I now want to install rear end with disc brakes to car along with attaching suspension parts. Shocks, springs, panhard, etc. So,does anyone feel this will put too much weight on rear of car and possibly tilt and become unstable? Has anyone with a lift had any issues of this nature? Or do I need to do engine/trans first?
Have a question. I have my car on a 2-post lift with the arms extended to the ends of the frame on all 4 points. Car is very stable. All doors, hood, rear deck and front/ rear windshields are on car. Only thing I’ve installed is the fuel tank and lines. I now want to install rear end with disc brakes to car along with attaching suspension parts. Shocks, springs, panhard, etc. So,does anyone feel this will put too much weight on rear of car and possibly tilt and become unstable? Has anyone with a lift had any issues of this nature? Or do I need to do engine/trans first?
It's too much. Too risky. These cars are incredibly light with no drivetrain and one side will be completely off balance. The front end is super light, so much so I could lift mine off Jack stands when mine was down to a shell.
I think I would get all the wring plumbed through the car, brake lines ran. shocks and struts mounted to the body.. so on and so forth, then lower the car onto the k-member (with motor) and rear end... that's a incredible build sir. im in Houston as well. cant wait to se it finished. great work!
Currently building a carriage for the engine and trans assembly and lowering the car down to it. Tested putting the rear end and rear suspension on and it will make the car unstable. After engine/trans install weight will be more evenly divided.
It's too much. Too risky. These cars are incredibly light with no drivetrain and one side will be completely off balance. The front end is super light, so much so I could lift mine off Jack stands when mine was down to a shell.
Thanks. I took all opinions into consideration and yours was spot on.
09-21-2019, 08:36 PM
