When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Went to install my Hawks long tube headers and after a lot cursing, throwing and getting the headers stuck between a few times I finally got them in! The passenger side was the hardest to drop in. A few videos on YouTube saying put it in from the bottom but I kept getting them stock. What worked for me was to lift the passenger side of the engine with a engine hoist almost to the point the car was lifting, take off the coil brackets and they dropped right in. I almost forgot to clean the matting surface because I was in such a rush, but I slowed down an did it right.
On the driver side I ran into a issue with the header hitting the 3rd gen shifter cable bracket, its a real tight fit in their. I thinking I might be able to use the 4l60e bracket if I cut off the stud on the end and run the screw threw the hole. I haven't done it yet because it was time for work, I see when I get off work tonight,
It get real expensive! I orignally order headers from Speed Engineering for $315 but had to cancel the order because they have been on back order for the last two months. Got tired of waiting and order the "swap kit" from hawks. It came with the 4L60e crossmemeber (that don't fit) the headers and motor mounts brackets. I spoke to them on the phone and they deducted the price for the motor mounts because I already order them months ago, but it still was expensive.
I been have a spreadsheet of the all the money I have spent,the little things here and there adds up faster then the major parts.
I’m gonna try and add up my costs when I’m done. I’ve got most receipts.
What’s the problem with the crossmember? I think I’ve seen some people post up that the bolt holes don’t line up. Seems like that wouldn’t be a hard fix.
I fab something up for the time being until I figure out what’s going on with the other one. I really should had made my own from the start but I was afraid of my welds failing since I’m a new welder.
I did massive research on here before I got them. I even did a thread asking which was the best to use. I would hate to think I have to buy new mounts and motor mounts this late in the build.
Oh man this car is starting to become a money pit towards the end. I now have to change the whole set up in the front to get those plates. My car was originally a v6 so I didn't have sbc stuff.
Oh man this car is starting to become a money pit towards the end. I now have to change the whole set up in the front to get those plates. My car was originally a v6 so I didn't have sbc stuff.
Big time money pit. If I could go back I never would have started mine but I’m not gonna be the guy who doesn’t finish. It’s just taking me a lot longer than I anticipated.
I feel you there. I still would had done it. It's a hate/love relationship with the car. For my first build with limited funds it still coming together nicely. I'm going to call Hawks in the morning and see what they have to say. Before I ordered them mounts I called and spoke to a rep and they said this is what I needed. There were plenty of threads on here where people used the same set up but a coarse I cant find them right now. I don't understand why would they sell it as a kit if its not going to line up.
I feel you there. I still would had done it. It's a hate/love relationship with the car. For my first build with limited funds it still coming together nicely. I'm going to call Hawks in the morning and see what they have to say. Before I ordered them mounts I called and spoke to a rep and they said this is what I needed. There were plenty of threads on here where people used the same set up but a coarse I cant find them right now. I don't understand why would they sell it as a kit if its not going to line up.
Well it’s not that they don’t work and maybe someone who has experience with these will chime in but it appears to me like you still need the set back plates in addition to these to move the engine closer to the firewall.
I already had new sbc mounts so all so all I had to do was buy the adapter plates and run what I already had.
Hmm...I ran cheapo adapter plates that’s let me use sbc mounts. You’re suppose to use set back plates/mounts so everything lands in the right spot.
:facepalm:
Originally Posted by Billgluckman
I don’t see how these could be correct.
I keep reccomending just just buying these plates but nobody listens lol
Fortunately people haven't listened to you
The mounts he has ARE the correct mounts and are APPLICATION specific. His mounts are "setback", and in reality none of the "setback" mounts actually do that. The "setback" mounts keep the mount in the SBC position. If you look at the mounts and the position of them on the crossmember, they are back from the SBC position to keep the bellhousing flange in the same position
The mounts he has are the same ones I used, and hundreds of other people.
Please don't give out info if you don't know what you're talking about.
Also, the ICT Billet aluminum mount plates are cheaper than those you linked on eBay. Not sure why people continue to shop on ebay for everything.....
If you get them from Walter racing they are even cheaper than this https://www.ictbillet.com/heavy-duty...onversion.html
Originally Posted by Destro Camaro
Thank you for the information, I guess it back to the drawing board!
You have the correct mounts. I think you have the T56 crossmember but you need the one for the 4L60. I would contact Hawks if that is where you got it from and let them know you got the wrong one.
Fortunately people haven't listened to you
The mounts he has ARE the correct mounts and are APPLICATION specific. His mounts are "setback", and in reality none of the "setback" mounts actually do that. The "setback" mounts keep the mount in the SBC position. If you look at the mounts and the position of them on the crossmember, they are back from the SBC position to keep the bellhousing flange in the same position
The mounts he has are the same ones I used, and hundreds of other people.
Please don't give out info if you don't know what you're talking about.
Also, the ICT Billet aluminum mount plates are cheaper than those you linked on eBay. Not sure why people continue to shop on ebay for everything.....
If you get them from Walter racing they are even cheaper than this https://www.ictbillet.com/heavy-duty...onversion.html
You have the correct mounts. I think you have the T56 crossmember but you need the one for the 4L60. I would contact Hawks if that is where you got it from and let them know you got the wrong one.
I also said “maybe someone else will chime in” who knows more about it. So here you come being a dick head for no reason. Seeing his mount land in the wrong spot plus his driveshaft being an inch short leads me to believe something isn’t right.
Ive bought ictbillet in the past and it works but it ain’t made out of much. These adapter plates I bought are made out of good old thick steel. I’ll take these any day.
I guess the the ones I used are wrong. Good thing no one takes my advice and buys them. I’m not gonna go back and forth with you over any this. I’ll just sit here and wait on my eBay mounts to fall apart or something.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 10-07-2019 at 05:06 AM.
Thank you both for your input. I have since contacted Hawks and sent pictures of the fitment issue on Monday evening, I have not heard back from them yet, being patient for a reply I understand they are a busy company. Will update soon as I know something.
You’ll get it straight...honestly I hope I’m wrong. I hope it’s just the trans crossmember and if others here have used them with no issue then you’re good. I just know I’ve read of others using non set back mounts and having issues.
Seeing his mount land in the wrong spot plus his driveshaft being an inch short leads me to believe something isn’t right.
Where is his driveshaft an inch short?
I never said anything about the quality of your plates being poor. I only said you overpaid if you got them from that link. And me coming here asking you not to give out advice if you don't know what you're talking about isn't me being a dick head for "no reason". The poor guy was ready to spend MORE money on something that he DEFINITELY doesn't need. He's frustrated enough and buying a different mount adapter would have only made him more frustrated.
Big time money pit. If I could go back I never would have started mine but I’m not gonna be the guy who doesn’t finish. It’s just taking me a lot longer than I anticipated.
Reading you guys thread has me thinking... I have done a lt1/4l60e swap in the same camaro I'm putting this 4.8 in. The thing with the lt1 was it was a sbc350 so it went in easy with minor mods. This Ls stuff I already knew it was going to be alot... I have a nice 81 c10 shortbed that will be easier to ls swap I'm considering now..
I don’t understand what the problem is and it’s not expensive to swap LS. $500 LS motor and you can even reuse the 700R4 with a $11 converter pilot extension. Get the vats deleted and set your fan temps for your Tstat and the style of fans your going to use. Plug it in and start it up. You can make a stand-alone harness for like $15 and a few hours time. Or you can get the fitech for $800 or Holley for $1k if you don’t want to tune and want more than stock. iCT billet engine plates or eBay steel generic with $30 SBC solid motor mounts and bolt it down. Truck pan will clear kmemeber but hang low so get the fbody eBay pan for $100 and pickup for $40 from GM, cut the front of the truck windage tray and bolt it together. Would not be hard to do a full LS swap for less than 1k including price of the motor. All the stock braces should work including trans crossmmeber if you set the engine in the stock SBC position which then means the DS will bolt right up. You can get cheap eBay headers and make them work or you can get the LTs.
Ive used eBay steel engine setback plates and the ICT billet plates. Steel I feel are better for bending/fatigue. They are anywhere from $25-45 depending on steel or aluminum. You could even reuse your stock motor mounts to save like $30-40 on solid mounts. Or get some SBC universal poly and the standard kmemebe side mounts.
It’s not expensive to swap LS…That’s the first time I’ve read that on here. I have seen LS swaps on here from low budget parts from junk yard (like mine) to full blown new parts all the way down to the every nut & bolt and seal. Even the low budget “I got a donor car for FREE” I venture to say will cost more than $1000. A LS swap can become an expensive swap when adding up the small stuff that you don’t think of until you doing the swap. Honestly I think it’s the small stuff that adds up fast. Also how much can a person fabricate and repurpose old parts has to be taking into consideration. Your vague and glossed over ins and outs and pricing of a LS swap is a little misleading I must say. And judging by your beautiful
For example I spent more than $15 dollars on fuse holder, fuses, relays, wiring, heat shrink, electrical tape, the list goes on. My engine cost me $120 from oil pan to intake, but I’ve spent roughly $800 just on parts for the engine to sit in the engine bay. Such as gaskets, seals, replacing sensors, new oil pan and all that come with that, manifolds, bolts, manifolds, new throttle body wire, you name I BROUGHT IT! Hell I spent over a $100 just on replacement fluids didn’t think about that until the last minute. Plus I started with a v6 car so I didn’t have sbc mounts like some. Plus I feel the more you read and follow some swaps on here like yours, there is a pressure to not just throw your car together and call it a day.
My point is do LS swap can be expensive; it is a lot of factors to take into consideration before you turn your first bolt. But if you don’t have a SEMA deadline to meet, take your time and build the vehicle of YOUR dreams not your budget. It might take you longer then some builders on here but it will come someday.
Last edited by Destro Camaro; 10-13-2019 at 06:43 PM.
As for the crossmember I wasn't able to get in contact with Hawks hopefully this week I'll be able to get it squared away. In between time I did my own research and found proof I was sent a T56 one instead of a 4L60e one. The first picture is a Hawks crossmember install with a T56 transmission, the 2nd picture is my crossmember and the 3rd is a picture of a 4l60e crossmember. You can clearly see by the red lines I drew they are completely different design.
Thanks everyone again for their comments and thoughts on the situation.
Last edited by Destro Camaro; 10-13-2019 at 07:37 PM.
Reading you guys thread has me thinking... I have done a lt1/4l60e swap in the same camaro I'm putting this 4.8 in. The thing with the lt1 was it was a sbc350 so it went in easy with minor mods. This Ls stuff I already knew it was going to be alot... I have a nice 81 c10 shortbed that will be easier to ls swap I'm considering now..
youre gonna spend money either way, just swap the one you want to swap.
Originally Posted by customblackbird
I don’t understand what the problem is and it’s not expensive to swap LS. $500 LS motor and you can even reuse the 700R4 with a $11 converter pilot extension. Get the vats deleted and set your fan temps for your Tstat and the style of fans your going to use. Plug it in and start it up. You can make a stand-alone harness for like $15 and a few hours time. Or you can get the fitech for $800 or Holley for $1k if you don’t want to tune and want more than stock. iCT billet engine plates or eBay steel generic with $30 SBC solid motor mounts and bolt it down. Truck pan will clear kmemeber but hang low so get the fbody eBay pan for $100 and pickup for $40 from GM, cut the front of the truck windage tray and bolt it together. Would not be hard to do a full LS swap for less than 1k including price of the motor. All the stock braces should work including trans crossmmeber if you set the engine in the stock SBC position which then means the DS will bolt right up. You can get cheap eBay headers and make them work or you can get the LTs.
Ive used eBay steel engine setback plates and the ICT billet plates. Steel I feel are better for bending/fatigue. They are anywhere from $25-45 depending on steel or aluminum. You could even reuse your stock motor mounts to save like $30-40 on solid mounts. Or get some SBC universal poly and the standard kmemebe side mounts.
Everyone has a different income and for me personally I’m at a point in my life where I’m kinda tired of blowing money on car stuff. Also I’m not doing just an ls swap, I’m also completely redoing the paint/body. The little hidden costs are what get you. If I was just doing an ls swap it probably would have been done for around $1500 and that’s with me doing my own harness and modding 3rd gen exhaust to fit ls1 manifolds.
I don’t have 100% answer on the drive shaft difference between v6 and v8. Mine seems to fit just fine that’s all I know. The car moves back and forth. Fighting off the urge to take it around the block..Still have to finish up the exhaust and bleed the brake and some more stuff before I leave the driveway.
Decided to clean the bottom of the car. Probably going to POR15 the light rust spots after I prep the surface. It clean Used my drill and wire brush. Want to address this ASAP! Don’t want my car to rust away. The previous owner must didn’t know where the jack points where. Messed up my floor pans. Going to try to hammer them back in place as much as possible. Clean up good.
Definitely have seen worst.
Last edited by Destro Camaro; 10-21-2019 at 09:42 PM.
10 bucks at the pick-a-part for a cold air intake and maf
sensor off a Tahoe. Probably will change it towards the end of the build but this a good find for now.
Last edited by Destro Camaro; 10-21-2019 at 10:04 PM.
Got a lot done to the car today. Installed my battery in the truck. Still has to mount the box to the car, probably will fab something up in the morning. Also add the battery vent hose.
Pulled the power cable and grounding wire from a 300c at the junk yard only paid 5 bucks. Better then the 50 Amazon was asking for the battery wire relocation kit.
The location you have for the MAF is not ideal. If you read some of the GM literature it needs to be in a straight piece of tube with around 4" of straight pipe ahead of it to operate properly. Behind the air filter may cause it to act in an erratic way.
Glad you got the correct crossmember for the transmission. Now that you post the picture it is easy to tell that the auto is different than the manual.
@86iroc504 this is what I used to hook up my transmission coolant lines. I'm also using an external cooler since I had a new one laying around. So far no leaks. I got all the parts from amazon. Hopes this answers your question and helps. -6 AN Transmission Oil Cooler Adapter Fittings for GM Turbo 350 400 700R 4L60E Pack of 2 EVIL ENERGY 6AN 45 Degree Swivel Hose End Fitting for braided fuel line Aluminum Alloy black I got two of these to attach to the transmission fittings. 20Ft 6AN Universal Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Line Hose Ends,Black 20 Feet is plenty, I probably could had did it with 10ft.
sorry,there's no $1000 ls swap.....aint happening unless its one of those magic youtube $1000 swaps .who throws in a used engine without doing gaskets,rings,bearings,paint etc? then exhaust,then fuel'then wiring,then filtration etc .its pretty much a $2500+ adventure all day long MINIMUM
sorry,there's no $1000 ls swap.....aint happening unless its one of those magic youtube $1000 swaps .who throws in a used engine without doing gaskets,rings,bearings,paint etc? then exhaust,then fuel'then wiring,then filtration etc .its pretty much a $2500+ adventure all day long MINIMUM
I’ve done 3 swaps without opening up the motors, not doing bearings or gaskets etc. most I do is the oil pan which are $100 on eBay and a pickup for $50. I run mine on a home made engine test stand just to verify oil pressure etc. $100 for setback adapter plates and solid mounts
for the motor and kmember and your in like flin. $20 pilot adapter you bolt the stock trans up which Keeps the stock crossmemeber and driveshaft. Then all you need is exhaust and computer which is not $700. You can send your stock computer in to get vats deleted and other **** for cheap and get cheap eBay shorties and pay a muffler guy $100 to fab up something from the headers to the catback. Modify the stock harness for $25 to standalone. Then it’s just adapters For the stock gauge sending units and small stuff. They can be done for $1k not too hard.
Thank you for the information! I didn't know it matter the location. I see swaps on here where people delete the MAF, whats your thoughts on that?
absolutely delete the maf if you can. Meaning, if you have a way to tune the car properly, it would be ideal to run MAP only.
The maf sensor, while it has it's uses, it typically abandoned in performance applications for a variety of reasons.
cheapest 5.3 locally is $650 with 350,000 km,how are you doing the rest for $350 and how the **** do you expect it to run worth a rats ***?
you must be in commiforni or one of those magic places were parts either grow on trees or cost 1/10th of the rest of the ****ing world.
i just bought a vortec(1st one ive seen for sale within 100-200 miles in the last 3 years) and it was $700.
edlebrock intake for vortec heads $200,ls springs $50,comp cams retainers and valve seals $120,used roller cam $200,headers $150
there's no way bud,sorry.(a stand alone ls harness with vats deleted is $600+ in ontario)cheapest decent ls is your entire budget.
forget the $2500 i said,thats the cheapest usa price.its really much closer to $4000 in canada
if you can do ls swaps for a grand ill get a grand together and you can do one for me(ill give you a 10% tip afterwards $100)
let me know when to bring the car by.
region is the biggest thing in the cost of LS swaps,your price is only applicable within a 50 mile radius of your house and thats only if you know a guy
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 12-07-2019 at 01:00 AM.
I don't know, I've seen some pretty cheap builds after selling off stuff. They aren't buying parts from catalogs. All the stuff is either homemade or comes from a junkyard. It's just going to be a basic driver at that price but I've seen it done.
In the US we've got so much stuff to choose from that if you have to rebuild a LS short block then you chose the wrong engine.
cheapest 5.3 locally is $650 with 350,000 km,how are you doing the rest for $350 and how the **** do you expect it to run worth a rats ***?
you must be in commiforni or one of those magic places were parts either grow on trees or cost 1/10th of the rest of the ****ing world.
i just bought a vortec(1st one ive seen for sale within 100-200 miles in the last 3 years) and it was $700.
edlebrock intake for vortec heads $200,ls springs $50,comp cams retainers and valve seals $120,used roller cam $200,headers $150
there's no way bud,sorry.(a stand alone ls harness with vats deleted is $600+ in ontario)cheapest decent ls is your entire budget.
forget the $2500 i said,thats the cheapest usa price.its really much closer to $4000 in canada
if you can do ls swaps for a grand ill get a grand together and you can do one for me(ill give you a 10% tip afterwards $100)
let me know when to bring the car by.
region is the biggest thing in the cost of LS swaps,your price is only applicable within a 50 mile radius of your house and thats only if you know a guy
1k is tough but it’s not as expensive as you’re making it out to be. Most people work their own harness. It’s easily doable under 2k if you want a stock swap.
10-05-2019, 04:04 PM
