ILMODC

So quick update on where I’m at in my install:

I got me a 2002 All aluminum 5.3 from a GMC Envoy. It’s been freshened up. We got an LS2 cam, LS6 intake, 1999 PCM and a handy 2000 F Body (Camaro-automatic) harness to plug it all in. All is installed, accessories are 4th gen F body style and things going great.

The transmission my buddy helped me purchase/pick up and mate to the 5.3 is an “4L60E”, but it seems like it’s a pre-97 from I’m just now learning and finding out. I’m a few months into the project and seem to be learning more and more as we go.

Problem is I noticed is that the flex plate looks like its bent or bowed. I think I have a flat flexplate and need a dished plate? Now I’m reading up on spacers and such so I’m confused what to do.

Another problem - Seems the plug on the harness isn’t fitting in to the transmission. Seems like it just won’t snap all the way down/in.

I found some info on pre-97 4L60e’s not compatible with the electronics and such. Am I hosed with this transmission? Is there any saving it or do I need to sell it for a 98+ 4L60e?

I’d appreciate any input or insight! The car’s a few miles away and I only get to work on it a few hours twice a month, so it’s a slow process.

ILMODC

pics...

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I am doing a 5.3 swap as well, but mine is cast iron. Persoanlly I would go with a 98+ trans, because what I have heard is that early 4l60e's won't last long with an ls motor.

I got mine from Transmission Kings in Virginia. Stock rebuilt shipped to my door for $1155.

cosmick

I'm using a '97 4L60E, it's more like a '96 version than a '98 version. I ordered a new LQ4 / 4L80E flexplate, it came with the spacer, and everything bolted up fine. My torque converter came from a '99 S-Blazer, because it has a 2075-RPM stall speed, the loosest stock converter that'll bolt in. My 4L60E came from a 2WD 3/4-ton van that was built with a Vortec 305.
Admittedly I haven't gotten mine running yet, but getting it all connected was easy. I'm using a 5.3L / 4L60E truck starter, no problem there either.

ILMODC

Very nice. I always like hearing about installs that come together like this. Even if I were to model my install after yours, the electrical plug from the harness wont plug in. Seems like it should just snap in, but it’s not. The transmission is still on the car so my view isn’t all that great. I don’t want to force it in. I have a 2000 f body harness. I thought I read somewhere the old transmissions had different pins – meaning the electronics are different.

All the more reason I may need a legit 98+ 4L60E.

cosmick

The wiring is easy too. You need the connector that matches the trans, most of the pinouts are the same, but anything different is easy to change. Or you can just cut and splice.
I sent my '01 0411 PCM to GMTuners and told Ryan what trans, what converter, what engine, and what mods. He's done awesome tunes for me before on other projects, so I expect this to start and drive well, except I've changed my plans.
Once you choose who is going to unlock your PCM and calibrate it for your axle and rear tire size, they'll be able to help with making the trans pinouts and the PCM pinouts match.
I'm good at doing my own harnesses, but Pocket is better at showing and telling how to change pinouts.
Finding illustrations of what the trans wants is a simple matter of Google.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

When using a dished flexplate and an older trans, you need the crank adapter. All it does it catch the converter stub, so any type will work. OEM 4L80E or the howe sleeve
Order needs to be crank->flexplate->adapter
Keep in mind the flexplate holes usually need to be egged out to bolt to the converter

From an electrical side, its the same. Be sure you line the harness connector up with the trans port properly and it will slide on with minimal effort. Do NOT twist the connector until it lines up. You risk bending the male pins on the trans side and you dont want to have to fiddle with those

All 95-08ish 4L60Es are pinned identical, same connector and all. 94 and older models lack the PWM pin and take some tuning to work nicely behind a LSx PCM. Newer models incorporate the range switch to the internal workings and add several pins, but the connector is still the same

There really isnt a LSx classed 4L60E. Older units used a 1pc case like you have and are close to 700R4s in appearance and internals. Newer units had a 2pc case with a removable bellhousing. The BH bolt pattern changed slightly for LSx, but SBC's still used the same trans. LSx converters used a longer front stub which is where the adapter/spacer concerns come from

ILMODC

Nice. Is there anything you don’t know about these cars Pocket? LOL Thanks for the insight.

Ok, so do I need this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-HP3795/

I think the flex plate is flat. Perhaps I was being hasty and didn’t line up the harness connector pin perfectly and thus had problems with it snapping in.

Dumb question – is there any way to properly identify the transmission I have as being a 95+ and not a 94? What do you think about this being a K CASE. Is it worth any more than just a regular transmission? Being a K Case, does that mean it’s a 95+?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Never stop learning

Pics look like a dished flexplate, but I could be looking at them wrong. Where it bolts to the crank, is that centered in the starter ring or sticking out to one side?

If it is a dished flexplate, that adapter will work. If its a flat flexplate, you need the OEM spacer

Fiddle with the connector some more. It WILL go in

To ID a 95+ trans, slide the converter off. The pump will have PWM cast in the front clear as day

Not sure where K case came from. I posted above about a one piece case meaning cast-in bellhousing vs later cases having a removable BH. Generally the later 2pc case trans are worth more

ILMODC

Thanks for the input. It’s given me hope and something to go on. Seems like everyone’s “LS” install is just a little different. So hard to get the support for exactly “your build”.

I wasn’t there when my buddy put the trans and engine together. In asking him recently he doesn’t recall where he go the flex plate nor which style it is. It looks like its bent toward the center bold area. Hard to tell in pics. I get need to get over to the car, pull the trans out and see what we got. I’ll look for the PWM too. Good to know what parts you actually have.

Once the trans is out, I’ll have a better ability to access the harness/plug.

To be continued….

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If it needs the adapter, the trans has to come out anyway. Good time to remove the flexplate and make sure the holes line up. Its a bear to slot them with it installed

cosmick

I've done the slotting out-of-car, but I've also done it with re-drilling, depending on the flexplate. May not be an option here. I've seen it done with washers, but I don't want washers between my flexplates and my converters. Seems more likely to be a problem later.

ILMODC

I still haven't been to the car yet to work on things. Do we know if this would work? Adaptor plus flex plate?? Cant tell in the description if this is what I need.

ILMODC

OH, I just found this: Guess this will work?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...35483/10002/-1

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yes, that will work. Be sure to get the longer bolts with it. They're M11 thread, so you wont find them in a fastener store

Remember the order

Flat flexplate: crank, adapter, flexplate

This also works but requires a dished flexplate
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hughes+Perform...P3795/10002/-1
Dished flexplate: crank, flexplate, adapter

ILMODC

Thank you for confirmation. Great advice on the order of install too. I ordered the adaptor/spacer and the necessary bolts via Jegs. Hoping this weekend to pull the trans back off and we’ll determine if I have a flat or dished flex plate. I’ll recheck the pins and ensure I’m getting a good fit on the electric plug too.

The saga is to be continued.

ILMODC

Follow up:

Thank you Pocket and others for chiming in. Big success over the weekend. Transmission removed and reinstalled with said adaptor. I do have a dished flex plate and we had to elongate the torque convertor holes. Everything reinstalled and looks great. I even got the electrical plug in. Turns out there is that lil white “arrow” that I had backwards. Don’t laugh, I didn’t see the arrow and the way the harness was going, seemed like the plug naturally went in one direction.

All is good now. Just need to do some fuel/radiator/power steering plumbing and some electrical and we should be good to go!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Glad to hear it

Ole Chevy

The 93 and below 4l60e is a 12 pin plug now the 94 and up I'm sure is the 13 pin well at least 94 is for sure. Ik because I had a 94 13 pin. I bought to replace my 93 12 pin at the time I thought all 4l60e were the same pin setup. So I just pulled the plugs and switched the harness out which yes do have to do a lil digging into the trans but only difference is the extra pin in the 94 and up is just a tps sensor which controls the governor and how much pressure to put in the plates. Don't know much after that other then it's sitting behind my 5.7l.but planning on ls swapping it. Or rebuilding the 5.7l. hope the info helps.