Ls1 swap
#2
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Depends upon what you do to it, and what you put on it to support it.
Factory ratings were in the 305-315 HP rating in f-bodies (net flywheel HP), and 340-350 in Vettes (mostly due to better exhaust, although some say it was just to maintain the appearance of Y-body superiority). That's through cast iron manifolds. If you install headers, expect about a 5-10% improvement. Torque was in the 350 range stock.
Also depends upon which intake you use. LS1 won't produce the power of the LS6, or most any aftermarket intake.
Switch cams, and much more power can be expected, especially if you upgrade intake and exhaust to support it.
Factory ratings were in the 305-315 HP rating in f-bodies (net flywheel HP), and 340-350 in Vettes (mostly due to better exhaust, although some say it was just to maintain the appearance of Y-body superiority). That's through cast iron manifolds. If you install headers, expect about a 5-10% improvement. Torque was in the 350 range stock.
Also depends upon which intake you use. LS1 won't produce the power of the LS6, or most any aftermarket intake.
Switch cams, and much more power can be expected, especially if you upgrade intake and exhaust to support it.
#3
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Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4 4 speed automatic
Re: Ls1 swap
Ok so what rear end would l have to put in so my car doesn't fall apart? And where can I get an ls6 intake?
#4
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Car: 1990 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 9 bolt
Re: Ls1 swap
01 and up f-body LS motors had the LS6 manifold on them from the factory. I would look into a Strange S60 or Moser 9 inch for a rear end. I am still running a factory 9 bolt in my car and I know I am on borrowed time and will be running a strange S60 when money allows.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'm running a beefed-up 10-bolt (aluminum support cover, aftermarket 28-spline axles, welded tubes {probably not necessary with a torque arm}, Detroit TruTrak, Richmond 3.73 gears). This is with an LS6-clone (LS1 shortblock, LS6 cam & intake, 317 heads shaved to LS1 chamber size), 1-3/4" primary long tube headers with 2-1/2" collectors into 3" single exhaust, 4L60E tranny has shift kit and 3600 stall lockup torque converter. Driveshaft is a custom-made 3" DOM steel.
I installed the engine/trans in late 2010, raced it for a month & a half at the end of the season, drove it daily, raced it during the 2011-2014 seasons, still daily drove it. The original rear setup in 2010 included a new Auburn posi and GM 3.73 gears. The Auburn started spitting out parts in late 2013, so that's when I put the TruTrak in. In August last year the GM gears gave out, so that's when the Richmond gears went in. The way the gears were set up when the TruTrak went the gears were pretty whiny, so I suspect that lead to their eventual failure. The Richmonds, though, are quieter than the GM gears ever were.
Most of this running has been done at 5800' elevation, although it's been to sea level in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013 for a full weekend of racing each time. At sea level, estimated HP is 380; at our elevation, more like 310.
All this to say it is possible to get the 10-bolt to live behind an auto tranny, although the ones ricky recommended would be better (there is also a 12-bolt available from the aftermarket). But, if you go with a manual tranny, don't spend a dime on the 10-bolt, just upgrade (S60 would be my recommendation).
I installed the engine/trans in late 2010, raced it for a month & a half at the end of the season, drove it daily, raced it during the 2011-2014 seasons, still daily drove it. The original rear setup in 2010 included a new Auburn posi and GM 3.73 gears. The Auburn started spitting out parts in late 2013, so that's when I put the TruTrak in. In August last year the GM gears gave out, so that's when the Richmond gears went in. The way the gears were set up when the TruTrak went the gears were pretty whiny, so I suspect that lead to their eventual failure. The Richmonds, though, are quieter than the GM gears ever were.
Most of this running has been done at 5800' elevation, although it's been to sea level in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013 for a full weekend of racing each time. At sea level, estimated HP is 380; at our elevation, more like 310.
All this to say it is possible to get the 10-bolt to live behind an auto tranny, although the ones ricky recommended would be better (there is also a 12-bolt available from the aftermarket). But, if you go with a manual tranny, don't spend a dime on the 10-bolt, just upgrade (S60 would be my recommendation).
#6
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Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4 4 speed automatic
Re: Ls1 swap
Alright thanks guys. I'll probably go look for a 2002 z28 and take the ls1 and t56 out of it then look into a s60 rear
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Car: 1987 camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4 4 speed automatic
Re: Ls1 swap
Also I've read that if I get s t56 im going to have to redo my instrument panel. Idk the whole deal but could you guys help me out?
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#8
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: Ls1 swap
4th gens (and some later 3rd gens) use an electronic speedometer rather than the cable driven speedo of your '87 Camaro. You can modify the T56 to run a cable speedo, but it is really expensive to get that done. There are also boxes to convert the electronic signal to drive the cable from Cable-X or Dakota Digital - I could never get the Cable-X to work (it doesn't have a lot of power capability in its stepper motor, so the cable needs to be almost perfectly straight - no curves). Some people have gotten the Cable-X to work, though, but I haven't heard any reports on the Dakota Digital unit.
The tach output from the LS1 PCM is equivalent to a "normal" 4-cylinder signal, so 3rd gen V8 tach won't read properly. That is easily handled by changing a value in the PCM programming, though.
One option that fixes both issues is the Dakota Digital VHX Camaro instrument cluster. It isn't cheap (~$750), but it is a nice unit. I have one in my '82 Berlinetta LS1/4L60E swap.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...t-cluster.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-vhx82ccamsr
Red or Blue background lighting available (I chose red, wish I had gone blue). I do have the factory-like turn signal indicators working now.
The tach output from the LS1 PCM is equivalent to a "normal" 4-cylinder signal, so 3rd gen V8 tach won't read properly. That is easily handled by changing a value in the PCM programming, though.
One option that fixes both issues is the Dakota Digital VHX Camaro instrument cluster. It isn't cheap (~$750), but it is a nice unit. I have one in my '82 Berlinetta LS1/4L60E swap.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...t-cluster.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-vhx82ccamsr
Red or Blue background lighting available (I chose red, wish I had gone blue). I do have the factory-like turn signal indicators working now.
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Ls1 swap
Overkill for a stock engine.
#11
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Re: Ls1 swap
Agreed. My donor was an Auto Trans Am and I have the LS6 intake (car was an 01 or 02)... First thing I'm doing before I add more power is a rear end, I'm already nervous with the stock LS1 up front.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt w3.42 Torsen
Re: Ls1 swap
Factory ratings were in the 305-315 HP rating in f-bodies (net flywheel HP), and 340-350 in Vettes (mostly due to better exhaust, although some say it was just to maintain the appearance of Y-body superiority). That's through cast iron manifolds. If you install headers, expect about a 5-10% improvement. Torque was in the 350 range stock.
Also depends upon which intake you use. LS1 won't produce the power of the LS6, or most any aftermarket intake.
Also depends upon which intake you use. LS1 won't produce the power of the LS6, or most any aftermarket intake.
01-02 f-body got the LS6 intake and no EGR. Exhaust manifolds changed 2or 3 times from 98-02.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: Ls1 swap
Both f-body and Y-body are net HP ratings at the flywheel. "Net" means as the engine is installed in the car, including full air intake system, full exhaust system, and running the accessories (alternator and water pump). Vettes got better exhaust systems, and never had EGR. They made more power from the factory.
That part is true.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt w3.42 Torsen
Re: Ls1 swap
Well, let's put it this way: Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
Both f-body and Y-body are net HP ratings at the flywheel. "Net" means as the engine is installed in the car, including full air intake system, full exhaust system, and running the accessories (alternator and water pump). Vettes got better exhaust systems, and never had EGR. They made more power from the factory.
Both f-body and Y-body are net HP ratings at the flywheel. "Net" means as the engine is installed in the car, including full air intake system, full exhaust system, and running the accessories (alternator and water pump). Vettes got better exhaust systems, and never had EGR. They made more power from the factory.
With all due respect because I know you are an extremely knowledgable member, how do I know if you or the 4thgen enthusiasts who made the claims are correct? Their info is backed with dyno #'s that supported their claims.
This isn't the thread i read but it does discuss the stock dyno #'s of the LS1 vette vs the f-body LS1. Page 2 is where the info we are discussing really starts.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/corvette-p...ey-same-2.html
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