alex722607

iTrader: (3)

finally got a chance to really look at the new trans. I got one with out provisions for a torque arm mount, so I guess I gotta make a phone call tomorrow, unless some one has a suggestion that does not involve a 400 dollar torque arm relocation.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Here's my suggestion...

Throw the transmission in the car, and take the stock crossmember and hold it into place and see where the mount for the trans sits in relation to where it bolts into the car. Cut and weld if it needs it, who knows you may get lucky. Then take the torque arm mount off the old tranny and stick it on the new torque arm. Get some scrap steel and weld it onto the modified stock crossmember. If it's too ugly or flexes too much, you're only out time and parts you were going to throw away anyways.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

That is originally what I was going to do, then I told my dad about the little issue I encountered. He sits at the computer, and as luck would have it, he found it within 10 minutes. 60 bucks for the f-body tailhousing, but it has the three bolts holes. My dad has access to a big welder where he works, so tomorrow he is going to see what he can do with my stock crossmember. I gave him some measurements and a picture of what a board member on here did. I think it was 1ADan if I'm not mistaken.

I called the place where i got the trans from and asked if I take off the tailhousing, will the warranty be vioded, they said no it wouldn't. I got a prett ygood deal from them. Once I get my turbo hydromatic back to them as a core, I get 100 back. Basically I got a completely rebuilt 4L60E with a 2 yr warranty for alittle over a grand. I hope it was worth it.

It has been really cold to work lately, so I have been doing odds and ends. I finished my engine harness asside for 2 pins I need to crimp on the wire for my temp guage sender. The car is online power wise.

I put my dash back in today and realized I forgot to connect a ground, so that is one thing I'll take care of.

I also realized I screwed up the cancel cam I think because there is continutiuty between the light blue and dark blue wires at the column for my left and right turn signal lights. This is weird though because when I turn on my parking lights the arrows display on the dash for left and right, don't blink, and the lights do not go on. I am missing some lightbulbs, that I know, but I don't think this is screwing with it, but who knows. Also when I put the lever to turn right the light goes on, but doesn't blink- again missing bulbs- maybe.

The one thing that leads me to think its the cancel cam is that when I turn the lever, I have to wiggle it for the arrow to light and for the light to work.

This is unfortunate because I have steering wheel controls and its built into the cancel cam, something regular ones don't have. Maybe the 98-02 steering wheel cancel cam might work if all else fails.

This was just quick probing with continuity, I didn't disconnect anything, could be a problem elsewhere. To properly diagnose this one I will do it when I park it in my grandmas really tight garage when I get it running.

I also started looking at my old exhaust...since my dad put headers on the 350 and had an exhaust system done, the piping I might be able to reuse.

Friday I intend to pull the old tank in 35+ degrees of cold. I can't wait. haha

I also need to look into a mail order tune.

some pics of what I have accomplished:

engine harness all loomed up


c220/c230 with the green wire from the coolant temp sender


one bank


the pcm tuned for an 02 firebird manual I think



guess what that is



yup you guessed right, my modified throttle cable made to work with the stock throttle firewall grommet from my third gen; that goop on there is silicone

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

just to clarify about the throttle cable, I did not glue it, I just used the silicone to make it watertight

In order to secure the throttle grommet to the stock firewall grommet, I opened up the hole in the 3rd gen grommet to have the ls1 fit in there and it clipped right in after a little fitting and prying.

pmcruz781

Great work so far man, you are moving right along it makes want to get back into my swap.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

The turn signal flasher won't operate without full load, i.e. without all the bulbs in there. If you put in an electronic flasher it will work with only one bulb. When I swapped out to LED's I had to put in an electronic flasher to get them to operate. The stock flasher is a bi-metallic strip that has to heat up, then it opens. If there isn't full load it doesnt heat up enough to open.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Cracked the nut. I forgot to put in the LH park turn ground-connect it that is and putting in the bulbs made them flash. Installed the throttle cables into the firewall- all good. The 4th gen condenser and radiator fit fine with a little bending of the ps cooler lines. I decided to remove the hvac harness to fully integrate that. The two black vac lines broke on me - they have been breaking piece meal since the old 350 was still in there. I need help figuring out where they go to in the car. The book doesn't say anything about it.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

There were two vacuum line connections from the heater control harness. One was for the dash vents and the other went to the coolant bypass.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Where does it connect to in the car. The only thing the factory manual says is that there are violet and orange lines. The violet going to the cruise vacuum ball via a "t" and the Orange to the outside vacuum actuator. I am guessing the two black lines connect to the A/C vacuum solenoid module. I have no way to see it clearly. - other than feeling around in there. And if that is the case I have to wait till it's running so I can do this in a warmer garage.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Here is a picture of the manual

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Your plan with the crossmember should work, but honestly I'd still mock the parts up just to make sure. When you say the three bolts on the tailshaft, what are you referring to? Where the tailshaft mounts to the trans housing, or the torque arm bushing mounts to the tailshaft?

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I will mock it up. As for the three holes I mean for the torque arm. I managed to get the tank ready to pop out since my last post

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I need to know what this connects to. This is what popped out with the hvac harness and I can't put it off cause it's buggin me lol.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I got my HVAC harness out of the car as mentioned in the above posts and deleted the pressure cycling switch. I am routing the green wire that comes from the HVAC unit to the pcm via c220/c230. Since its all 4th gen A/C I will let the PCM control it. I also went ahead and beefed up the ground for the high speed blower relay with one I had lying around and crimped on a GM56 terminal and presto- much better.

I'll reinstall it once I figure out the vacuum lines bit. I can troubleshoot where they connect later, I just need to find where on the heater box it connects.

I am getting ready to send my pcm out to the guy at LT!swap.com. Hopefully I will be able to start the motor next week if I get the fuel system plumbed by then.

How is everyone priming their engines btw? I have heard of two methods, pulling the ECM and injector fuses and cranking it till the oil circulates. The other way is to get the oil to circulate via an external pump and the oil gallery plug

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I dont know where that connects, I have only been that far into the dash once, when I cut up my 88GTA, but I suspect those are the two connections to the engine compartment as all the vacuum hoses inside the car are colored and the ones in the engine bay are black.

What are you having the LT1swap guy actually do? I have HP tuners and can shut off VATS etc for the cost of the credits, would save you shipping and I am in NJ, but we'd have to do on your car.

When I did the 4.8 in my Camaro, I just pulled the fuse for the injectors and cranked the engine until I saw pressure on the gauge in the car. Then put the fuse back in and fired it up

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I found where it connects. I feel stupid for not thinking of it sooner. It is one the drivers side under the dash right where the left most vacuum actuator is mounted on the heater box. The colored vac lines connect to the black ones then get routed to the bay.

As far as the tune, I want VATS, I don't want to delete it. What I do need is to have it flashed for my engine, a 325 not a 346.
I need the air, evap, and egr deleted along with the rear O2's.

It also needs to be adjusted for my injectors. I also need it flashed for the trans, the wheel/tire size and the gears in the differential (16 and 3.23 respectively. Edit: I forgot, but I also need to have tach output changed to 8 cyl.



Today I was unsuccessful at completely removing the gas tank. I got it out of its housing in the car, but it is snagged because of the panhard bar being bent where it mounts on the right side of the car, the bolt for it would not come out. I suspect this is accident damage. I did everything short of borrowing a jackhammer and pounding it out

I guess tomorrow my dad will either get it out, or he will finally concede and cut the neck off the tank and then fiddle with the bar.

I also removed the gas pedal to bend the arm, installed my condensor and radiator and started measuring the old fuel lines. I am apprehensive about cutting anything yet with the new braided lines, because I don't know if I should start at the front or back of the car with building them. Also I noticed that my rear brake line was so badly rusted that simply seperating it from the fuel lines managed to break it right at the flare. I guess this was an issue waiting to happen. I also reinstalled the hvac harness

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Today I also started to make my fuel lines with the assortment I got way back in 2014.



My reasoning:

Well I had the f-body fuel filter and figured how could I make it work. Well the stock plastic line plugs into the stock filter so I left that be. The return is modified through a "T" after the filter, so I made that braided stainless back to the pump. And obviously everything after the filter had to be stainless braided. I plan to shoot that up to the firewall, From there I assembled a 45 degree turn upwards. If I can I will run it along the left frame rail and shoot it to the intake.

I also need suggestions about the rear brake line. I have rear disc brakes (GTA) so what have you guys done? At the moment I only want to change the broken one, the front lines are all good so if it works, let it be.

Here is a pic of where those two black lines connect to inside the car in case anyone ever stumbles on this thread

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

just saw this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1992-Po...d5cb3e&vxp=mtr


thoughts ? opionions??

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Tail housing came today as did my new high torque starter. Also my plugs and plug wires came too. I got ac delco plugs and the install took 10 minutes with the engine in the car. I am not missing the SBC right now. I also got my gas pedal installed and in the car. I could have bent it a tad more, but it's fine. After my dad and I pull the tank I can mock up the new lines and cut the section by the firewall to install a 45 degree angle to shoot it to the intake..

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Wow, free shipping. I paid $99 and got free shipping only because I bought a bunch f other stuff at the same time.

FYI, put some lube under the tube nut with the stainless, I used anti seize, then you tighten and back off a few times and then a good tighten at the end, should have no leaks

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Okay so my dad said he could reflare the line, because he has a flaring kit, so why not. -Really don't want to replace the line right now.

We got the tank out today. Turns out it wasnt the accident damage holding the panhard bar, the bolt was so rusted in the bar itself, that the metal was gone. My dad took an air hammer, put an impact gun on the head and nothing. Then just as we were about to cut it, he gave it one more shot with the air hammer, and poof, he got it out. I mocked up the new lines and tank, fits well. I am waiting for the new fuel pump to come in to inatall the tank. I also decided to scrap the plastic feed line. Originally I wanted to use it because I did not want to pay the extra 50 in fittings and shipping, and it seemed okay. The bends in it are to extreme and it is kinked after the mock up. The lines from the fuel rail to the fuel filter are good and tight. I will take a pic tomorrow if I remember.

I also put together the harness for the tank to body. It is interesting how the 3rd gen colors on the tank are gray- fuel pump and purple- fuel level sensor and black -ground (obviously). The colors change when they come out inside the car to tan, pink, and black respectively. In the 4th gen, the colors are the same. I wonder what nutty electrical tech decided the wire colors should change in our cars - haha


My dad and I also seperated the old y-pipe. I will see what can be reused from the old exhaust as my dad spend quite a bit of time and money on it. I purchased the flanges from TransamCreationsUSA that mate to collectors on my stock 4th gen manifolds. We will see.

I also installed all my accessories today. I will probably have to get a new alternator as I don't trust the one I got for free basically. I will use it to move the car, but its not going far without a new one. I was having a bit of trouble gettign the 4th gen steering pressure line to work, but after reshaping it a little, I think it will work.

I am tempted to retain the rear O2 sensors, and put the bungs right next to each other after the cat. I don't know how the inspection people will test my car. And rear O2's will only make it run cleaner. I don't know. I am sending the PCM out for tuning tomorrow and hopefully I will have it back soon.

Tomorrow I plan to take transmission tailhousing off and install the new one- well the one with provisions for a torque arm mount- its hardly new. I have to get a new seal for it first thing tomorrow so that there are no surprises down the road. Hopefully my new ECT connector will come for my 98 ECT sensor so I can finally mount my harness in place. When the trans and harness go in, next step is the starter and then I fill the sucker with oil - 5w- 30 (stock 3rd gen oil btw - I always used 10w-40 for my old sbc.) and pop on a filter. Afterwards I can crank the motor to prime the engine. I am tempted to spin the balancer by hand (using a ratchet and socket) before hand. I do not want to wipe out any bearings. I did not come this far, to screw up now. By Wednesday I want to crank it - thats my goal.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

The rear O2s only say whether the CAT is still in spec. And you would only need one. I was planning on doing the same with my car since I already have what I need

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking that, but I thought that if something is up or outa whack it will mess with fuel tables or make one bank run different. That's just me - I am not sure is all

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I was going to say I had a similar issue with mine, the bolt just wouldn't come out. I was about to cut it and used a c-clamp with a socket over the head of the bolt. The handle bent, but the bolt popped out.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I hit some snags.
1. I ordered a new ac delco fuel pump for my ls1 fuel pump assembly. The pump is much smaller, the wiring connector is different and uses smaller pins, and the hoses supplied dont fit the assembly- I cut up my hand pretty bad trying to get the hoses on.
I ordered a new assembly, not ac delco though- we'll see - maybe if the pump is the same size I will use the new one I got - jsut so its AC Delco- if not- well I will go with the one I am getting

2. I got the trans in the car only to find out that the arp bellhousing to block bolts I got are not long enough- they must be trans bellhousing bolts. I bouight gm ones to replace those. The crossmember is going to be modified by my dad. instead of welding a plate to the crossmember - and yea we checked - it has to be modified- my dad is going to join the crossmember and metal plate in wedlock with bolts. The plate is as thick as the spohn motor mounts.

3. We seperated the exhaust and I will see how I can make it work.

4. PCM is out getting tuned, I wont have it back till next week.

5. The upside is I get to focus on the interior for a bit, the downside is until I get the trans in place I can't install the oil pressure sensor and torque down the engine mount bolts, nor can I install the driveshaft or torque arm.

I am gonna get oil soon and prime the engine- hopefully tomorrow. and I just remebered I don't have bolts for the starter. Yesterday was a good day, today was terrible, can't wait to see tomorow.- guess I am not priming tomorrow ugh

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I bought the same kit for the bellhousing to block and trans to bellhousing. What kit number did you buy?

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

129-0901 ..... Ugghh

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Those are the wrong bolts anyway, those are ASE, not metric. You need

134-0901 Black Hex
134-0902 Black 12 point
434-0901 SS Hex
434-0902 SS 12 point

Those are all M10x1.5 with 1.375" UHL which is the same UHL as the other number you listed. I used the SS Hex for block to bell and bell to trans with a stock LS1 T56 bellhousing.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Well I got the GM part for it on order yesterday and today I have it, so too late with that

I put tyhe trans back down today to attach the cooler lines, install the dipstick and torque arm mount which finally came. My dad reflared the rear brake line so tomorrow I can reinsatll and I can begin filling my lines with fluid. I am about a week behind where I wanted to be by today. I still have not put oil in it to spin the crank. Dont even have the oil yet.

I got most of my belts and hoses today from rockauto. Something is not right with upper rad hose. I ordered a stock replacement for a 2002 t/a vin G (5.7) and I got a short elbow. The stock third gen fits better. And I have an LS1 waterpump and LS style radiator-- go figure. And yea I double checked the pn.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Well being as I am a week and a half behind schedule, its crunch time.

Last two days I have been playing yoyo with the trans, getting it up there adjusting for fit, and over and over. Finally yeterday after having an issue with two bellhousing bolts- and eventually discovering it was just me, and not the bolts or holes (wasted three hours too) my dad and I got the trans situated and bolted into place.

Also I had trouble with the torque arm mount- but got it to wor.

Today I spent the day torquing everything to spec, I mean everything- engine, steering, driveshaft, trans, everything. Tomorrow i am going to get oil first thing. So I can prime this marvel of technology. Still waiting on the damn fuel pump and pcm. Oh so close and so far.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I believe the Z28 and Trans Am, not sure which others, got "power steering coolers" that was part of the upper coolant hose, so they only had two elbows connecting the outlets to the cooler part. The part that everyone buys is the hose for a V6 car I think

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Ahhh, okay, thanks Scooter.

got fluids today, installed my drivers side headlamp and torqued my torque arm.

I put trans fluid in and about a couple quarts of mobil 5w-30 with the valve covers off, making sure to coat everything i could, and i figured let that seep down overnight. I also put trans fluid in it, not all the way, because I still have to tap the boss on the block for the dipstick tube and I need to let it run, before I can top it off. Being that I dont have my pcm or fuel pump and start school on tuesday, it should be interesting to say the least. This car has to be on its way to exhaust work by Friday, and I havent even heard it run yet, or bled the brake lines.

More to follow tomorrow

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I decided to go to the beginning of this thread and read the posts again and look at pictures, you know- go down memory lane. I started remembering all the little issues that I used to have which turned into bigger ones over time. I would say that it is making it all the more worthwhile, but I haven't driven it yet with the new motor- and wouldn't want to jinx myself, so I won't say it.

I'll share one of my stories:
I am not sure If I posted about the electrical fire I had in June, it was very small, but enough to teach me a lesson. On SBC, TPI serpentine belt drives, the alternator battery stud sits very close to the drivers side valve cover. Now For the TPI intake, I purchased bolts from hawks to replace my stock bolts, because the heads were questionable. Well that was a big mistake, as the heads were prone to stripping. Well I installed them all, but then I had an issue that required removal of the plenum and runners again. Well, I slowly started to replace all the new hawks bolts, which included drilling ez out, cutting and so on. Miraculously I did not hurt one thread on the intake plenum, or mating surface, or do any damage to them- go figure.

Well the bolts that you have to get to on the inside of the plenum, we know them so well, the one by the fuel pressure regualtor, and the one in front of the egr valve I decided to do first. So the one by the egr valve was my first choice. I got the bit on it and the extention and as I am about to put the ratchet on, this sucker falls and creates a circuit between the alternator stud (12v+) and the valve cover (12v-)

Now prior to dismantling the top half of the motor I had disconnected the battery cable, but then reconnected it for some reason, and forgot to re-remove it. I had two choices, play with the cable or stick my hand into where the socket and extention was and remove it. So I decided to grow a pair and stuck my hand into the flame and pulled out the socket. It was so hot, my finger left a permanent impresion on the extention.

I went and took some pictures of the bolts and the extention. The bolts pictured were all finally removed after pulling the engine, would have been impossible with it in the bay.

Notice one bolt has a broken bit in it, thanks harbor freight. Dad had to remove that one. Some are missing heads- either cut off or snapped off.

That extention, I had a 2nd degree burn on my pointer finger twice the size of that area of missing metal.










To think it all started with leaking fuel injectors.............thanks GM..........
memories.....

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I spent the day putting on hoses, pcv lines, vac lines, rad lines, trans cooler lines, and so on. My pump finally arrived so I installed it.

Turns out I was right. For anyone that comes accross this thread in the future:

a 2002 Pontiac Trans Am stock fuel pump assembly is not compatible with the replacement fuel pump kit AC Delco sells for LS1 through LS6 motors.

The replacement fuel pump assembly, however fits perfectly into the tank and is the replacement for the stock unit.

The AC delco kit is compatible with this new fuel pump assembly.

I also realized that my oil pressure sensor is the wrong omne for the block. I don't remeber which one I got, probably the 02- f-body style, and not the truck one, but I will rectify that tomorrow.

I finished putting oil in it today, I divided it among both heads evenly and when my dad came home, we primed the motor. I had a little issue with cranking at first. Turns out that the fenderwell connector on the pass side, the starter enable signal from the theft module, well the wire popped out of the connector and I had no crank signal. I guess that is what I get for not putting in the plastic retainer into the connectors.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Fuel system is done. I got the tank in, fits like it came from Van Nuys with it.

I put 5 gallons of gas in it to test my gauge, turns out that 5 gallons of gas equals just under 1/2 a tank.

Because I have a digital dash however, the bars on the indicator sort of hint towards the fact that there is more gas before it hits half a tank, than after half. It is funny if you think about it


Anyway, I jumped the fuel pump relay and checked- no leaks- also I had good pressure at the schrader valve on the rail.

I also started bleeding the brakes, its gonna take a while I think, I opened up my rear bleeders and the fluid level stayed the same in the brake resevior- go figure. I guess I gotta open it and leave it open for like half a day cause there is so much air throughout the system.

I got my track bar bolts and track bar brace bolts in the mail today, along with my gasket for the differential cover, the alternator, and my shift cable.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Whats wrong with it? They should be the same, and the computer doesn't get oil pressure, just for the gauge. I think the 02 F-body one will plug into the stock 88 connector

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

The part that screws into the block is too small. Maybe I was sold one for a V6, but it said that it fit an LS1 so I don't know.


Bled the brakes today and put in ps fluid. Now I am working on finishing the cooling system. Afterwards if I have time I will finish the engine electrical since it is somewhat warm and less chance of stuff breaking when it's handled. I also finished with the rear end and Trans shift cable. So far so good. .... Oh and I put the alternator in. Pcm should be here tomorrow and providing I get my dad to weld a bracket onto my trans dipstick that means I will be firing it up Friday at the latest. As soon as he welds an extension on my fuel filter braket I will be able to take it for a spin.


I can see the light at the dog the tunnel. He only pRt I am not looking forward to is exhaust. I would like to get a y-pipe that is already made and would really prefer not to take it to a shop to have someone do the exhaust. We will see what we will see.

Oh and it's kinda weird to turn the key and hear a sound I am not used to

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Where are you trying to screw it in?

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

back of the block next to the cam position sensor. Thats where the old one (the one that was broken) was

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

updated image of my engine bay:

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Looks like it's coming along nicely

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, that's the right spot. Should be an M16 thread. I am thinking you ordered the correct part, and received the wrong one.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

could very well be that

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

....that feeling when the one last piece of the puzzle is at home waiting to be installed and your not....

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I am trying to figure it what to do for exhaust. The old setup my dad payed a pretty penny for 20 years ago and it still looks brand freakin new. The main problems am having with it is that the manifold is smaller in diameter, but just a bit than my pipes. I am tempted to go with 4th gen cats to sort of make an adapter from the manifold to the pipes. It looks like it might work, who has had experience please chime in. The welding looks minimal, but it is mating the flange to the pipe that has got me stumped.

And yes custom exhaust would be easier on me, but I don't want to dish out an Arm and a leg. Plus it was payed for once and it looks perfectly fine.

And to be honest who of took on one of these swaps because it's easy....

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I saw an LS2 GTO last night at school and the exhaust just got me thinking sort of what my car will sound like. I think I am gonna have trouble getting used to it.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah? Why is that?

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

Well the sound that LS1's make are just plain different. My dad had headers on the sbc and the sound it made, has been engraved in my head since I have been a little kid. It should be interesting though.

As I wasn't home all day, I did very little on the car. I filled the cooling system...need more coolant...need to top off the engine oil before I run it as some also came out during priming (and not having the right dipstick in it, makes that a little difficult at the moment -hurry up usps)

I need to figure out what I need to do with the rockers. I hear, they are supposed to be tightened down before the engine is started. My dad says otherwise. Can anyone confirm?

Also can anyone confirm that the cats from a 98-02 f-body will fit 3rd gens?

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I know that the manifolds and the shorty headers fit, but I wouldn't risk it. Fab something up, throw some universal high flow cats on it, and join it to the rest of your exhaust.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I see. I'm sure you'll get used to it pretty quick.

Are you using a mixture of distilled water and antifreeze in your cooling system?

I doubt the engine will run if the rockers aren't tightened down since the valves won't be opening and closing. There is plenty of information on the internet about adjusting the valves. I guess if depend on whether your valvetrain is stock or aftermarket.

Yes, 4th gen cats will work.

Driver's side... the end must be cut-off as shown or it will hit the frame rail.


Passenger side... the housing must be bent down as shown or it will contact the firewall.