locke577

I'm going to check it out more this weekend when I've got a spare minute.

I guess I probably should look into getting codes read. What's the easiest way to hook up an ALDL to the computer?

oramac91

iTrader: (5)

You can get a cheap code reader,At auto store for like 50 75.Or buy a program.Ask in Other tread.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Do you have the LT1 harness wired to the Check engine light ?? Good Bulb ?? Does the Check Engine light appear to work properly ? ( Come on with key - stays on till engine is running - then shuts off, ect... )

You could use an ALDL from the same year/type of car as your LT1 wiring harness. That way the proper wiring can be connected from the factory LT1 harness to the correct pins on the matching ALDL. Then you would be able to use a scanner (good for that year / Type of car ) to read the codes.

Because your car was a carb car,... there will be a "Light Driver" that sits in the dash wiring between your C207 connector (from original 2.8 ECM ) and the dash C/E warning light. Tap/splice the LT1 PCM C/E wire into the dash C/E Light at your ORIGINAL ALDL connector (Yellow Wire / PIN D ), Not at C207 ! Turn the key to RUN then wire a 'jumper' wire from ground to that yellow wire on your original ALDL to test your C/E bulb.... If grounding the yellow wire doesn't turn the light on: replace the bulb.

locke577

John- Currently my dash isn't working. That's only happened since the swap. Is there anything that needs to be reconnected that I could have currently unplugged? Right now the only things I can think of that aren't connected are the old computer, and since the C100 I have connected right now is technically from a 92 harness, maybe there's a wire missing there. What do you think could be causing it?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

You can remove the entire ECM and harness from any digital Berlinetta and it will have no effect on the operation of th dash cluster in any way; so that's not the problem.

Because you used a 92 C100 harness there will be some connections that will need to change. I'm sure the wiper wiring will need to be spliced or re-pinned. Rather than trying to work off memory, here are the schematics for you to review.

84 Berlinetta C100



91 Camaro C100 (should be the same as the 92)



IIRC almost all the C100 plugs contain HOT, and Switched power thru the same pins. As long as all your grounds are in place and your fusebox is getting HOT and Switched power properly, the dash should work.

Are you SURE all the fuses are good ? Do the needle gauges work? Does the Systems Monitor work at all ? Do the "backlighting" bulbs work properly when you turn the headlights on ? Is it just the digital sections of the dash that are not working ?

locke577

Nothing works on it. I'm going to check the fuse when I get home today.


As far as the loss of power goes, I checked my oil and it's gray, so now I'm definitely thinking it's a blown head gasket.



I'm going to get a test done tonight to properly check it, so we'll see.


If it IS a blown head gasket, what's the proper way to replace one?

(Torque specs, bolt order, do I need to do anything special?, etc)

Any info appreciated. Thanks.

89rs454

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

89rs454

NICE link,... That's EXACTLY the kind of input that makes this website worth returning too.

croozer

I kind sir have gotten three bad Power Steering pumps right in a row before. Not trying to pick a fight. Just showing that rarities do indeed happen to the dismay for the common working class hero.

Croozer

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

So from the start you were properly bleeding the system without the wheels on the ground, and had flushed it completely to ensure no debris was causing them to fail ?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I hear Ya' Croozer, and I agree with Ya'. I bought a 60 gal compressor, got it home, installed it,.. and it wouldn't turn on (no good). Returned it & brought another one home,... It never shut off (no good). The third 60 gal compressor I brought home that week was fine. Sure; only 2 bad units - not 3 - Just sayin' I get it !

I would argue that both your and my experiences are perfect examples of

And "rarities" are an outlier, they are NOT the norm and me stating that every 60 Gal compressor ever made by that company was junk because of my limited experience would be an logic-bending over-generalization. Kind of like declaring that all OPTI's suck based on limited (if any) actual experience with one.

locke577

Hey guys, I figured out that it was the head gasket and I've done a complete teardown and rebuild of the engine over the last month or so.

I'm putting the intake back on now and I've just got one question. The guy who originally did my rebuild put silicone on the intake (particularly on the front and rear where there's no gasket) to seal it on. My father's never heard of such a thing. I just don't know. What's your opinion on the matter? Any quick help would be greatly appreciated.

WhiteBlaze

iTrader: (1)

I've never seen an intake install on a SBC without RTV on the china wall... I think you would have to use RTV on the front and rear of the block.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Guess what the tube of included RTV is for

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Don't use the pre-formed 'China Wall' gaskets that are sometimes included with an intake manifold gasket kit. They Suck ----> Plain and simple. I've used them twice, both times they promptly fasiled. Both times the gasket "split", I will NEVER use them again. I'm not talking about 2-3-4 years later,..... I'm talking about finding a leak in a matter of months.

3K miles on these gaskets.



High Temp RTV,..... !

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Black RTV is the correct choice for the application.

There is a reason the LT1 intake kits simply come with it.